Homebrew PCBs

thanks st,
 imho you compleatly right on you post. i will look at
the steadtler ink, buuuut if it solvent based i am
just leary of tring it, if it is solvent based and it
sets up or dries out in the head i would never get it
out. by the way i havent ordered print heads--- just
carts. i think my heads are open. this is just going
to be trial and error--mostly error. i keep thinking
someone can think of some fluid that will work.it is
going to be diffecult and consume lots of time to try
every thing. if we could get some one in that is
already in the business of flat bed printing to help
us it would save gobs of trial and error experminting.
as far as coloring the etch resist it doesnt have to
be in the mix, its just let you see what your printer
is doing. and yes it may make a difference on how the
resist works.




--- Stefan Trethan <stefan_trethan@...> wrote:
> Please mebo
> ( i hope this is how you like to be called...)
> 
> Do not attempt to color the resist any more.
> It is really not needed and it adds a unknown
> variable with
> maybe very bad results. (see the black paint).
> You want to reduce variables, not add them.
> 
> I hope it is not too expensive to change this
> head....
> 
> I also hope you tell me if you plan to try sharpie
> or staedtler red ink.
> 
> The coloring seems to add a huge unpredictable risk,
> you do not
> konw if the color itself, or in combination/reaction
> with the resist
> will cause problems.
> 
> On the other hand i do not think the color will
> improove the resist 
> functionality.
> It is only for visibility i assume. I do not deny
> that this will be a very 
> important
> feature in the final mixture but i do think that we
> have time then to try 
> which colorant
> is suited for the resist.
> 
> When you have the heads i would first try the
> acrylic floor polish.
> try it as it comes out from the can (it it is the
> same density as the bona 
> polish
> i have it seems not to be too thick).
> You may also try to dilute it first to 50% or 25%,
> to be sure it will not 
> clog the head.
> if the resist layer is too thin then (which i
> expect) you can try thicker 
> stuff.
> 
> You should be able to see the layer of clear laquer
> if you hold the board 
> at an angle
> against a light source. of course you also should
> immediately see the 
> result in the etchant.
> Make sure the polish is completely dry (maybe dry in
> a oven).
> 
> 
> Best luck with your next experiment..
> 
> ST
> 
> 
> 
> On Sun, 14 Mar 2004 18:50:03 -0800 (PST), pebo
> festus <mebo31@...> 
> wrote:
> 
> > yes st, i mixed mop&glo with artist black acrylic
> > paint,the paint seperated from the water in the
> > mixture. I could not get the printer to print, so
> I
> > took the cart apart(prized the top off) took out
> the
> > spoung and there is a micro screen over the orfice
> > going to the print heads. the paint pluged it
> up.had a
> > dickens of a time getting that screen clean. then
> i
> > cleaned my print head again and it was kinda
> stopped
> > up ,but got ammonia through it again. went to the
> > store and bought a bottle of black ritz dye, put
> some
> > of it and some more mop&glow in the cart and it
> still
> > didnt work out. i will order 2 new carts monday
> and
> > see if the regular ink will still print. will take
> two
> > or three days for them to arrive. am thinking now
> of
> > changing from mop&glo to Johnsons acrylic liquid
> floor
> > wax with just a touch of ritz dye in it. will see
> if
> > that stops things up.now that i know how the carts
> are
> > made it will be easier to work with them.i have a
> air
> > compresser and can blow back through the screen in
> the
> > cart and maybe clean it. i have seen on other
> posts
> > that some folks are looking at alps heated impact
> > printers, if i can find one that works one may get
> > into that also.
> > mebo
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >> ok, thanks.. (is laytex a company or what? is it
> >> latex paint?????????)
> >>
> >> good luck... hope you get that thing cleaned out
> >> again for further
> >> trying..
> >>
> >> can you get your hands on red staedtler ink?
> >> i really think this is a good candidate..
> >>
> >> Did you try the mop'n glo again with the flushed
> >> head?
> >>
> >> Please describe what the current status is,
> >> is the problem the layer thickness/consistency?
> >> or are not all jets printing full amount?
> >>
> >>
> >> I would first try acrylic paint, like floor
> polish,
> >> as thick at it fits through,
> >> then i would try the staedtler red,
> >> and maybe another option could be UV curing ink.
> >> (i think it allows slightly thicker layers with
> the
> >> same initial amount
> >> because there is no solvent, or is there?)
> >>
> >> Keep us informed..
> >>
> >> ST
> >>
> >>
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