Homebrew PCBs

That isn't going to work..
the solder will bead up, never form continuous useable traces.

try it with copper and solder filings and colophony powder.

If you have enough copper to make it stay you still have no adhesion to 
the board.
Then you have "sucking" of ink, no resolution at all, how narroy parallel 
traces
do you think are possible with this?

When you solder you have to solder in the soft solder/copper traces, that 
will not be easy.

I don't see any advantage of this process, i would not waste my time even 
if the
odds were better that it works.
(Even in an ideal case the work and result are much worse than many other 
processes (like TT)).

If you have so much time, of course it is your decision on what you waste 
it.
And i also like experiments.

I just wanted to say i think it is highly unlikely that something useable 
emerges from this
idea..

I do think it makes only sense to investigate simpler/cheaper/faster 
processes than we already have.
(e.g. better than TT for medium quality and better than photooptical for 
highest quality)

Stefan



On Sun, 21 Mar 2004 14:37:21 -0800, Richard Mustakos <rmustakos@...> 
wrote:

> Ron,
>   Thanks for the info.  From what you said, I read that Ammonium
> Chloride is useful as a flux, but will eat up non copper metals, is that
> correct?  I know it is very water soluble, so washing after forming the
> circuit pattern on the substrate, but before soldering any components on
> should get rid of the corrosion issue.  Does this go along with your
> understanding?  I need it to perform 2 functions: absorb enough ink to
> get sticky enough to hold the metals and flux to the board so I can dump
> the metal and flux powders off the parts I don't need, and then to flux
> the solder powder onto copper powder when I melt to the circuit onto the
> substrate.  When I attach the components, I can use regular solder & 
> flux.
> Thanks
> Richard