Homebrew PCBs

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Stefan Trethan 
<stefan_trethan@g...> wrote:
> 
> > I think I am spoiled,
> >
> > The first batch of boards I had were of some other substrate and 
the
> > copper pealed off easily.
> >
> > I can get muriatic acid from the hardware store, so that is easy
> > enough.
> >
> > Hydrogen dioxide... I've seen that on the list before.  Seems I 
need
> > to scan the list for quality and sources.
> >
> > IIRC, it is not the diluted stuff one buys to put on cuts.
> >
> > I just check the polls and there is only the poll about a minimum 
CNC
> > machine.
> >
> > I wonder if we should put together a poll on what method each of 
us
> > use to make boards.
> >
> >
> > Dave
> 
> 
> Good idea the poll.
> 
> actually you need H2O2 which is dihydrogen dioxide i think, but 
everybody
> calls it hydrogen peroxyde.
> 
> I get it from a chemicals shop, very cheap there.
> other sources are pool supplys, wood bleaching.
> 
> You NEED to find stuff with 30% or 35% concentration.
> The pool stuff is about 20% and is the lower limit.
> 
> The food/desinfection/hair bleaching stuff is mostly 3% or less,
> meaning you need a huge amount.
> 
> 
> There are other etchants too, like ferric cloride and such...
> 
> 
> Mechanical removal:
> 
> I expect the following to work:
> take a round rod of steel, heat it, apply solder, apply
> solder on one edge of the PCB solder the rod to the copper.
> let solidify, then rotate the rod, coiling up the copper like a 
fish tin 
> lid.
> Because of the heat from the soldering the glue will already be 
attacked, 
> it will
> lift off i think. once you have a piece lifted it should roll off 
without 
> rupture.
> 
> I never tried this but from "accidents" when i didn't want it to 
lift at 
> all i expext
> it to work.
> You can try it and maybe you can aoid the etching alltogether.
> 
> ST



Great idea !

I'l have to try that on a smaller board.

It's nice that this board is so darn thick that it will not bend 
easily.

Dave