Homebrew PCBs

If you have a vacuum pump (even a good shop vac or vacuum cleaner) you can put the board and the artwork in a Reynolds Aluminum 'Bake 'n Bag", pull a vacuum and set the iron on it.  That should generate much more force (and much more unifom force at that) than you could ever generate by hand.
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Bob Weiss 
  To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, October 18, 2004 11:24 PM
  Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Questions about toner transfer method.



  I just made another "test" board using Staples Picture Paper and 
  this time used more pressure and time under the iron and I am amazed 
  at the quality you can achieve!! There is no going back to the "old" 
  way for me...this works great! Thanks for all your help.



  --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Phil" <phil1960us@y...> wrote:
  > 
  > You've probably got a decent transfer.  etch it, dano.
  > 
  > For inkjet paper brands, look in the database section.  There are a
  > number of inkjet papers people have reported good results with.  
  I've
  > used 2 brands, Georgia Pacific InkjetPlus+ and, iirc, office max
  > inkjet paper.  Both did well though I am very very happy with the
  > Georgia Pacific stuff.   Inkjet papers are coated to prevent the 
  ink
  > from soaking into the paper and blooming.  Its basically regular
  > inkjet paper - I'd bet any brand will work fine.  Just make sure is
  > says "formulated for inkjet printers" or similar.  Don't use laser
  > printer, copier or general purpose paper. Typically <$4 for a ream 
  of 500.
  > 
  > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Bob Weiss" <BWeiss@p...> 
  wrote:
  > > 
  > > Thanks for answering me, there was a couple spots very small 
  that 
  > > stayed on the paper when I pulled it off. I am assuming I didn't 
  > > heat it long enough or press hard enough. When you say inkjet 
  paper 
  > > which brand are you using? Is it like regular white ream paper 
  or 
  > > special stuff?
  > >





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