Homebrew PCBs

Brian,
When you say a "system" does that mean full blown... i.e. multilayer,
through hole plated
via's and silk screen printing ?

If you just want to make two sided prototype boards then you can get
started for just a
few $'s or \ufffd's

This list is not complete  and I feel sure other people will have
something to say about
it...

Program to draw schematic and PCB layout ( I recommend EAGLE  they have
a fully
functional free version)
Printer to make transparencies. I use LaserJet but InkJet is also fine.
(Expect to get lines
down to 5-8 mil with experience! )
Positive Pre-sensitized PCB board. You can buy something like
"Positve60" and
prepare/sensitize the boards yourself.
UV Lamp. A garden Grow lamp does work, even if some people say it does
not. With a
100W lamp at 6 inches give about 1 minute exposure.
I find it handy to have a sheet of glass (rob it from a picture frame is
a good source !) to
tape the transparency and PCB for exposure.
Lye (caustic soda from the grocery store )  to develop the exposed PCB
about 10 grams
to a pint is a good starting point and a tray to develop it in.
Tupperware works fine. No
need to heat the lye as some people seem to think.
Ferric chloride and plastic tank to hold it (Tupperware cereal container
work fine) I like
to suspend the board while etching, it's easier to control. I simply
drill two holes and use
some plastic covered wire to hang it in the tank, and agitate by dunking
(don't splash it
will eat the stainless sink !)
No need to work in a darkroom, just a subdued lighting is OK, 100W bulb
is fine. Direct
sunlight is BAD...
Drill and drill bits. I recommend carbide drills they last longer when
drilling glass fiber
board.
For via connections I use the Harwin pins ( made in the UK ) and
eyelet's. Where a
connection has a component solder top and bottom, and for IC sockets,
use the
machined kind that allow soldering top and bottom.
You should consider some kind of plating to stop the copper tarnishing,
I use CoolAmp
silver plating powder, it's expensive but it work real good... and 1/4lb
costs $40 and last
a long long time...
I should thin you can buy the whole kit can be done for $100-125 that is
if you use a
shareware or free version of the PCB layout program..
Here is a link to an old prototype board I made some time ago, and  and
another link to
what I doing at the moment

http://hans-w.com/Old_Ursa_ProtoType.jpg  silver plated using CoolAmp
powder..

http://hans-w.com/past_3_weeks.jpg  all silver plated with CoolAmp...

I've been making boards since about 1975 ....  Still have not found a
"good" system for
through hole plating via connections.

Link to EAGLE site  http://www.cadsoftusa.com
Link to a UK site for info on making PCB...
http://www.netcomuk.co.uk/~wwl/pcbs.html He goes a little overbaord on
some things !

Hans W