Homebrew PCBs

> That part is only going to see 5V or whatever loconet uses.
> 
> What you need to look out for is the current rating in this case, 
same or  
> more to be safe.
> hFE and voltage seems non-critical.
> 
> ST

It's nice to see someone who's familiar with loconet...

The BR1 (part BR1) does not feed loconet directly, it's part of the 
power source (it's connected to the fuse and power jack).  

Have you seen the schematic link I posted?  Could I just start with 
another power wall wart current (instead of 15v/20va) and feed 
directly into part U6 and U3?  Part U6 is outputting 15v and U3 is  
outputting 5v.  I would assume that U6 amd U3 both have the same 
input voltage (35v per digikey specs?).  Then I could just have the 
power jack and fuse without the bridged rectifier.

Greg