Homebrew PCBs

Many of the traces for through hole parts end up on the top layer. Without 
hole plating, there doesn't seem enough capillary action to draw solder from 
the bottom pad to the top. Some of the leads will be unreachable, or at 
least inconvenient to get to. A small dab of solder paste on top might do 
it. Does the lead move enough heat to reflow the paste? Golly, but this 
seems more complicated than it needs to be.

Also, the pads don't seem to take solder very well. I cleaned the board with 
the Goof-Off that Pulsar included with the kit. It has a slightly oily 
feel... Is this the problem? Will Tinnit improve matters?

Mike.

On Sat, 12 Nov 2005 11:20:03 +0100, Mike Young <mikewhy@...>  
wrote:

> Many of the traces for through hole parts end up on the top layer.  
> Without
>
> hole plating, there doesn't seem enough capillary action to draw solder  
> from
>
> the bottom pad to the top. Some of the leads will be unreachable, or at
>
> least inconvenient to get to. A small dab of solder paste on top might do
>
> it. Does the lead move enough heat to reflow the paste? Golly, but this
>
> seems more complicated than it needs to be.
>
>
> Also, the pads don't seem to take solder very well. I cleaned the board  
> with
>
> the Goof-Off that Pulsar included with the kit. It has a slightly oily
>
> feel... Is this the problem? Will Tinnit improve matters?
>
>
> Mike.
>

I think the lead would heat through and reflow the paste on top, but i  
would not do that.
You simply need to avoid top pads where there is bad access. If there is  
just no other way use a piece of stranded wire, and solder on top without  
closing the hole. Put it in the hole parallel to the component leg and  
solder bottom.

ST