Homebrew PCBs

I recently received some very thin pcb material. It was 0.5 oz and 
very flexible, (0.020"?) I could easily curve it around a 1" rod.

I have an old Laserjet IIp+ laser printer, that I have been using 
for toner transfer. The LJ is old, heavy and built like a 
locomotive, so I thoough I would try printing directly on the pcb 
material. I put in an old cartidge and gave it a go.

A 3" x 5" piece of pcb was attached to a regular sheet of paper with 
heat proof labels. I slightly precurved the pcb material. The pcb 
matereial ran through the LJ without a hitch!

Unfortunately, the toner barely stuck to the pcb and was reprinted 
on the paper. I tried again after an extra cleaning step, but to no 
avail.

It appeared that the toner was not fused and was still powdery. The 
fuser in the LJ may not have enough power to handle the 0.5 oz 
copper.

So much for a good idea, back to the foil and the laminator.

TANSTAAFL

Myc

The question is, does it not get printed or does it not get fused?

ST


On Thu, 15 Dec 2005 17:06:49 +0100, mycroft2152 <mycroft2152@...>  
wrote:

> I recently received some very thin pcb material. It was 0.5 oz and
>
> very flexible, (0.020"?) I could easily curve it around a 1" rod.
>
>
> I have an old Laserjet IIp+ laser printer, that I have been using
>
> for toner transfer. The LJ is old, heavy and built like a
>
> locomotive, so I thoough I would try printing directly on the pcb
>
> material. I put in an old cartidge and gave it a go.
>
>
> A 3" x 5" piece of pcb was attached to a regular sheet of paper with
>
> heat proof labels. I slightly precurved the pcb material. The pcb
>
> matereial ran through the LJ without a hitch!
>
>
> Unfortunately, the toner barely stuck to the pcb and was reprinted
>
> on the paper. I tried again after an extra cleaning step, but to no
>
> avail.
>
>
> It appeared that the toner was not fused and was still powdery. The
>
> fuser in the LJ may not have enough power to handle the 0.5 oz
>
> copper.
>
>
> So much for a good idea, back to the foil and the laminator.
>
>
> TANSTAAFL
>

yep, the printer didn't have enough heat to fuse the toner... 

The question is.... was it smeared when it came out? If not... you might be able to fuse it in a toaster oven...

 - jim
On Thu, 15 Dec 2005 16:06:49 -0000
"mycroft2152" <mycroft2152@...> wrote:

> I recently received some very thin pcb material. It was 0.5 oz and 
> very flexible, (0.020"?) I could easily curve it around a 1" rod.
> 
> I have an old Laserjet IIp+ laser printer, that I have been using 
> for toner transfer. The LJ is old, heavy and built like a 
> locomotive, so I thoough I would try printing directly on the pcb 
> material. I put in an old cartidge and gave it a go.
> 
> A 3" x 5" piece of pcb was attached to a regular sheet of paper with 
> heat proof labels. I slightly precurved the pcb material. The pcb 
> matereial ran through the LJ without a hitch!
> 
> Unfortunately, the toner barely stuck to the pcb and was reprinted 
> on the paper. I tried again after an extra cleaning step, but to no 
> avail.
> 
> It appeared that the toner was not fused and was still powdery. The 
> fuser in the LJ may not have enough power to handle the 0.5 oz 
> copper.
> 
> So much for a good idea, back to the foil and the laminator.
> 
> TANSTAAFL
> 
> Myc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
> 
> If Files or Photos are running short of space, post them here:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/ 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
>  
>

On Thu, 15 Dec 2005 18:30:54 +0100, James Washer <washer@...> wrote:

> yep, the printer didn't have enough heat to fuse the toner...
>
>
> The question is.... was it smeared when it came out? If not... you might  
> be able to fuse it in a toaster oven...
>
>
>  - jim


I'm more worried there mightn't be enough toner put on the copper.
I suggest you power off the printer midway through and look how things  
are. You should see if a clear image is transferred. Then you can try to  
fuse it, any pray it has enough density as resist.

ST

From the residual patern on the pcb  and the full
pattern reprinted on the paper, it appeared that it
was printed but not fused. The toner was left on the
roll then transferred to paper on further revolutions.

Myc

--- Stefan Trethan <stefan_trethan@...> wrote:

> The question is, does it not get printed or does it
> not get fused?
> 
> ST
> 
> 
> On Thu, 15 Dec 2005 17:06:49 +0100, mycroft2152
> <mycroft2152@...>  
> wrote:
> 
> > I recently received some very thin pcb material.
> It was 0.5 oz and
> >
> > very flexible, (0.020"?) I could easily curve it
> around a 1" rod.
> >
> >
> > I have an old Laserjet IIp+ laser printer, that I
> have been using
> >
> > for toner transfer. The LJ is old, heavy and built
> like a
> >
> > locomotive, so I thoough I would try printing
> directly on the pcb
> >
> > material. I put in an old cartidge and gave it a
> go.
> >
> >
> > A 3" x 5" piece of pcb was attached to a regular
> sheet of paper with
> >
> > heat proof labels. I slightly precurved the pcb
> material. The pcb
> >
> > matereial ran through the LJ without a hitch!
> >
> >
> > Unfortunately, the toner barely stuck to the pcb
> and was reprinted
> >
> > on the paper. I tried again after an extra
> cleaning step, but to no
> >
> > avail.
> >
> >
> > It appeared that the toner was not fused and was
> still powdery. The
> >
> > fuser in the LJ may not have enough power to
> handle the 0.5 oz
> >
> > copper.
> >
> >
> > So much for a good idea, back to the foil and the
> laminator.
> >
> >
> > TANSTAAFL
> >
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
> If Files or Photos are running short of space, post
> them here:
>
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> 
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> 
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> 
>  
> 
> 
> 


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The patttern waa printed on the paper carrrier sheet
further down.

It was an interesting wxpewriment, but any extra steps
defeat the purpose. The foil method works well for me.

Myc

--- James Washer <washer@...> wrote:

> 
> yep, the printer didn't have enough heat to fuse the
> toner... 
> 
> The question is.... was it smeared when it came out?
> If not... you might be able to fuse it in a toaster
> oven...
> 
>  - jim
> On Thu, 15 Dec 2005 16:06:49 -0000
> "mycroft2152" <mycroft2152@...> wrote:
> 
> > I recently received some very thin pcb material.
> It was 0.5 oz and 
> > very flexible, (0.020"?) I could easily curve it
> around a 1" rod.
> > 
> > I have an old Laserjet IIp+ laser printer, that I
> have been using 
> > for toner transfer. The LJ is old, heavy and built
> like a 
> > locomotive, so I thoough I would try printing
> directly on the pcb 
> > material. I put in an old cartidge and gave it a
> go.
> > 
> > A 3" x 5" piece of pcb was attached to a regular
> sheet of paper with 
> > heat proof labels. I slightly precurved the pcb
> material. The pcb 
> > matereial ran through the LJ without a hitch!
> > 
> > Unfortunately, the toner barely stuck to the pcb
> and was reprinted 
> > on the paper. I tried again after an extra
> cleaning step, but to no 
> > avail.
> > 
> > It appeared that the toner was not fused and was
> still powdery. The 
> > fuser in the LJ may not have enough power to
> handle the 0.5 oz 
> > copper.
> > 
> > So much for a good idea, back to the foil and the
> laminator.
> > 
> > TANSTAAFL
> > 
> > Myc
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new
> Links, Files, and Photos:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
> > 
> > If Files or Photos are running short of space,
> post them here:
> >
>
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/
> 
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >  
> > 
> 


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On Thu, 15 Dec 2005 19:11:01 +0100, Mycroft2152 <mycroft2152@...>  
wrote:

> The foil method works well for me.
>
>
> Myc


Have you tried etching with it yet? Sorry if you reported about it already  
and i missed it.

The thing is, it should work similar to silicone coated paper, and that  
leaves me with "etching through" and pinholes. But the printer i now use  
is on the low end density wise (although it is set to max.). That's why  
i'm very curious what results you get with the etching.

ST

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7565325814&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1

  But for now I have a bit too much money out on other things to get 
these for experiments.  I'd say it stands a credible chance of going 
through my 6L and coming out ok as it is..

  And yep, nothing in the world like getting two exciting steps forward 
and seeing that you ended up 3 steps backwards too..

Alan



Mycroft2152 wrote:

>The patttern waa printed on the paper carrrier sheet
>further down.
>
>It was an interesting wxpewriment, but any extra steps
>defeat the purpose. The foil method works well for me.
>
>Myc
>
>--- James Washer <washer@...> wrote:
>
>  
>
>>yep, the printer didn't have enough heat to fuse the
>>toner... 
>>
>>    
>>

Hi Alan,

Try this one

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7568994079&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEAFB%3AIT&rd=1

This auction ended but I'm sure he has more. It was
only $20 and did run through my Laserjet IIIP+, just
didn't fuse.

Myc

--- Alan King <alan@...> wrote:

>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7565325814&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1
> 
>   But for now I have a bit too much money out on
> other things to get 
> these for experiments.  I'd say it stands a credible
> chance of going 
> through my 6L and coming out ok as it is..
> 
>   And yep, nothing in the world like getting two
> exciting steps forward 
> and seeing that you ended up 3 steps backwards too..
> 
> Alan
> 
> 
> 
> Mycroft2152 wrote:
> 
> >The patttern waa printed on the paper carrrier
> sheet
> >further down.
> >
> >It was an interesting wxpewriment, but any extra
> steps
> >defeat the purpose. The foil method works well for
> me.
> >
> >Myc
> >
> >--- James Washer <washer@...> wrote:
> >
> >  
> >
> >>yep, the printer didn't have enough heat to fuse
> the
> >>toner... 
> >>
> >>    
> >>
> 
> 


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