Homebrew PCBs

Ive heard a few different opinions about the finish of the copper
surface before etching.

One theory suggest that its better to have the surface slighly rough
because it allows the resist layer to grip it better.

The other theory suggest that its better to have a perfectly smooth
surface.

My only evidence is my few successful attempts at etching using PnP. I
used a 320grit 3m sanding block to shine and rough the surface before
etching and the PnP seemed to adhere very will except in a few places
where either I did not have enough toner applied or I did not have
enough heat and pressure  applied.

Im going to try using a chemical remover but the question is how do I
remove the residue from the chemicals. If I rinse it with water
wouldnt that start the oxidation process quicker than leaving the
board dry?

Regards
Wag

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "sbdwag" <sbdwag@...> wrote:
>
> Ive heard a few different opinions about the finish of the copper
> surface before etching.
> 
> One theory suggest that its better to have the surface slighly rough
> because it allows the resist layer to grip it better.
> 
> The other theory suggest that its better to have a perfectly smooth
> surface.
> 
> My only evidence is my few successful attempts at etching using PnP. 
I
> used a 320grit 3m sanding block to shine and rough the surface 
before
> etching and the PnP seemed to adhere very will except in a few 
places
> where either I did not have enough toner applied or I did not have
> enough heat and pressure  applied.
> 
> Im going to try using a chemical remover but the question is how do 
I
> remove the residue from the chemicals. If I rinse it with water
> wouldnt that start the oxidation process quicker than leaving the
> board dry?
> 
> Regards
> Wag

I mentioned this in another post I just replied to but I'll add it 
here to yours: I suggest getting 1000 grit sandpaper from the 
automotive section at wal-mart and using that instead. Transfers 
work better when the board is scuffed, but I think 320 grit is a bit 
too rough. Then two wipedowns with 91% isopropyl alcohol. The 
isopropyl should work to remove the residue from your chemicals as 
well. However, to save a step, simply use acetone to remove the toner, 
then do a final wipedown with isopropyl. The acetone won't leave much 
residue itself (though your paper towels might). Check my other reply 
to lcdpublishing for more suggestions on ironing.