Homebrew PCBs

I found this group last night while looking for ways to use a pen 
plotter to apply etch resist to PCBs.  It appears from my limited 
perspective that you guys have found a way to use an inkjet for this 
and much more?  Would someone be so kind as to point me in the right 
direction to learn how you are doing this.  This will solve a number 
of issues for me.  Thank you!!!!

DRR

On Tue, 30 May 2006 21:12:00 +0200, <drachels1@...> wrote:

> I found this group last night while looking for ways to use a pen
> plotter to apply etch resist to PCBs.  It appears from my limited
> perspective that you guys have found a way to use an inkjet for this
> and much more?  Would someone be so kind as to point me in the right
> direction to learn how you are doing this.  This will solve a number
> of issues for me.  Thank you!!!!
> DRR


The established and most used methods currently are tiner transfer and  
photo process.
Inkjet printing is something we are still working on, but i wouldn't see  
why someone couldn't jump right into it.

It's basically all about the ink, Volkan found one that works, MISPRO  
yellow, at inksupply.com.
It's also about the head, you need a newer printer with many nozzles. See  
previous posts for example models, but all the newer ones with variable  
drop size should be the right kind..
You basically figure out a way how to feed the PCBs through the printer  
and you also need to cure the ink before etching with heat, a stove plate  
works, when it starts to turn brown it is enough.

As you see, there isn't terribly much known about this so far. But i'm  
confident everyone can duplicate it. I took me so long because i had the  
wrong printer at first. With the right printer, and the right ink in the  
cartridge, it basically worked within 5 minutes.

ST

do the other colored inks work as I have ordered the 4 bottle set of 
the mispro inks 2oz size.

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Stefan Trethan" 
<stefan_trethan@...> wrote:
>
> On Tue, 30 May 2006 21:12:00 +0200, <drachels1@...> wrote:
> 
> > I found this group last night while looking for ways to use a pen
> > plotter to apply etch resist to PCBs.  It appears from my limited
> > perspective that you guys have found a way to use an inkjet for 
this
> > and much more?  Would someone be so kind as to point me in the 
right
> > direction to learn how you are doing this.  This will solve a 
number
> > of issues for me.  Thank you!!!!
> > DRR
> 
> 
> The established and most used methods currently are tiner transfer 
and  
> photo process.
> Inkjet printing is something we are still working on, but i 
wouldn't see  
> why someone couldn't jump right into it.
> 
> It's basically all about the ink, Volkan found one that works, 
MISPRO  
> yellow, at inksupply.com.
> It's also about the head, you need a newer printer with many 
nozzles. See  
> previous posts for example models, but all the newer ones with 
variable  
> drop size should be the right kind..
> You basically figure out a way how to feed the PCBs through the 
printer  
> and you also need to cure the ink before etching with heat, a 
stove plate  
> works, when it starts to turn brown it is enough.
> 
> As you see, there isn't terribly much known about this so far. But 
i'm  
> confident everyone can duplicate it. I took me so long because i 
had the  
> wrong printer at first. With the right printer, and the right ink 
in the  

> cartridge, it basically worked within 5 minutes.
> 
> ST
>

Yellow is the best magenta is also ok but forget cyan. If your black ink is color black (mixture of yellow, magenta, cyan) it can also be etch resistant but don't expect same performance as yellow one.
Volkan

----- Original Message ----
From: dsv1486 <darrell.vandenberg@...>
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 2:03:36 PM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Newb Catch-Up

   do the other colored inks work as I have ordered the 4 bottle set of 
 the mispro inks 2oz size.
 
 --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Stefan Trethan" 
 <stefan_trethan@...> wrote:
 >
 > On Tue, 30 May 2006 21:12:00 +0200, <drachels1@...> wrote:
 > 
 > > I found this group last night while looking for ways to use a pen
 > > plotter to apply etch resist to PCBs.  It appears from my limited
 > > perspective that you guys have found a way to use an inkjet for 
 this
 > > and much more?  Would someone be so kind as to point me in the 
 right
 > > direction to learn how you are doing this.  This will solve a 
 number
 > > of issues for me.  Thank you!!!!
 > > DRR
 > 
 > 
 > The established and most used methods currently are tiner transfer 
 and  
 > photo process.
 > Inkjet printing is something we are still working on, but i 
 wouldn't see  
 > why someone couldn't jump right into it.
 > 
 > It's basically all about the ink, Volkan found one that works, 
 MISPRO  
 > yellow, at inksupply.com.
 > It's also about the head, you need a newer printer with many 
 nozzles. See  
 > previous posts for example models, but all the newer ones with 
 variable  
 > drop size should be the right kind..
 > You basically figure out a way how to feed the PCBs through the 
 printer  
 > and you also need to cure the ink before etching with heat, a 
 stove plate  
 > works, when it starts to turn brown it is enough.
 > 
 > As you see, there isn't terribly much known about this so far. But 
 i'm  
 > confident everyone can duplicate it. I took me so long because i 
 had the  
 > wrong printer at first. With the right printer, and the right ink 
 in the  
 > cartridge, it basically worked within 5 minutes.
 > 
 > ST
 >
 
 
 
 
 
     

  Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
 http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
 
 If Files or Photos are running short of space, post them here:
 http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/ 

              

        SPONSORED LINKS   
                                                    Electrical engineering degree online                                       Electrical engineering degree                                       Printed circuit board                                                                     Electrical engineering                                       Electrical engineering course                                       Electrical engineering graduate school                                                                 
         YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS 
 
     Visit your group "Homebrew_PCBs" on the web.
     To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
 Homebrew_PCBs-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
     Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.  
     
      



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com 
> [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] De la part de Stefan Trethan
> Envoyé : mai 30 2006 16:36
> À : Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Objet : Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Newb Catch-Up
> 
> 
> 
> The established and most used methods currently are tiner 
> transfer and  
> photo process.
...
> 
> ST


Don't get confused with Stefan's Austrian accent.  That's his way of saying
toner.

Robert
:P

On Tue, 30 May 2006 23:10:21 +0200, Volkan Sahin <vsahin@...>  
wrote:

> Yellow is the best magenta is also ok but forget cyan. If your black ink  
> is color black (mixture of yellow, magenta, cyan) it can also be etch  
> resistant but don't expect same performance as yellow one.
> Volkan


Yellow seems much more like a laquer, while black seems more like pigments  
without much resin. Dunno why but that's how it is.

BTW. i left the cheap aftermarket ink in the color carts. When the printer  
starts mixing inks in some settings the blue is added to the black. This  
ink mix is all runny and beads up. The mispro ink seems really a key  
factor. Let's just hope they don't change the formulation, ever, or stop  
selling it.

I just had a look at the C84 printer and removed all the pizza wheels. I  
saw that it should be easy to do whatever one wants to this printer. The  
paper drive stepper is linked to the vacuum cleaner pump by that main  
drive shaft/roller (the one with the rough coating). Nothing else of any  
significance is driven by the paper drive stepper. So the pump could be  
disengaged completely and either replaced with a manual pump or some other  
drive added (worst case just buy another c84 for 1eur and hack the motor  
and gears to duplicate it). This would allow to have the drive stepper  
only used to drive the paper, not in reverse mode for the pump. If one  
wants to have a carriage engaged with the roller at all times it should be  
possible to break connection to the wires of the stepper via transistors,  
so it is only activated when you want to forward the carriage. Or maybe a  
magnetic clutch will be easier to fit, i have some from a copier.
There seems to be only one lever operated optical sensor for the paper  
detection on the back.

ST

"Newb Catch-Up" - What's a Newb?

I was initially confused (tongue-in-cheek) by the new Homebrew term "Newb". 
Then I realized the term had nothing to do with the Subject matter in the body 
of the message.  The topic is an interesting one but let's please try to use 
subject lines that can later be used to scan for useful information.  It 
raises the value of the list and messages immeasurably.

If an initial question or comment has a subject line that doesn't match the 
body info, consider changing the subject line to something that does match.

Thank you.

73, Jim
Jim Larsen
Anchorage, Alaska
http://www.AL7FS.us/

Thanks for the info, the people at inksupply.com are great they let 
me change my order to a 4oz bottle of yellow ink. I also purchased a 
lexmark z22 and 3200 at a thrift store for about 3 dollars each, I 
guess this will become my testbed for direct printing. what do you 
guys think about the lexmark route??



--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "dsv1486" 
<darrell.vandenberg@...> wrote:
>
> do the other colored inks work as I have ordered the 4 bottle set 
of 
> the mispro inks 2oz size.
> 
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Stefan Trethan" 
> <stefan_trethan@> wrote:
> >
> > On Tue, 30 May 2006 21:12:00 +0200, <drachels1@> wrote:
> > 
> > > I found this group last night while looking for ways to use a 
pen
> > > plotter to apply etch resist to PCBs.  It appears from my 
limited
> > > perspective that you guys have found a way to use an inkjet 
for 
> this
> > > and much more?  Would someone be so kind as to point me in the 
> right
> > > direction to learn how you are doing this.  This will solve a 
> number
> > > of issues for me.  Thank you!!!!
> > > DRR
> > 
> > 
> > The established and most used methods currently are tiner 
transfer 
> and  
> > photo process.
> > Inkjet printing is something we are still working on, but i 
> wouldn't see  
> > why someone couldn't jump right into it.
> > 
> > It's basically all about the ink, Volkan found one that works, 
> MISPRO  
> > yellow, at inksupply.com.
> > It's also about the head, you need a newer printer with many 
> nozzles. See  
> > previous posts for example models, but all the newer ones with 
> variable  
> > drop size should be the right kind..
> > You basically figure out a way how to feed the PCBs through the 
> printer  
> > and you also need to cure the ink before etching with heat, a 
> stove plate  
> > works, when it starts to turn brown it is enough.
> > 
> > As you see, there isn't terribly much known about this so far. 
But 
> i'm  
> > confident everyone can duplicate it. I took me so long because i 
> had the  
> > wrong printer at first. With the right printer, and the right 
ink 

> in the  
> > cartridge, it basically worked within 5 minutes.
> > 
> > ST
> >
>

Thanks for the info, the people at inksupply.com are great they let 
me change my order to a 4oz bottle of yellow ink. I also purchased a 
lexmark z22 and 3200 at a thrift store for about 3 dollars each, I 
guess this will become my testbed for direct printing. what do you 
guys think about the lexmark route??



--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "dsv1486" 
<darrell.vandenberg@...> wrote:
>
> do the other colored inks work as I have ordered the 4 bottle set 
of 
> the mispro inks 2oz size.
> 
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Stefan Trethan" 
> <stefan_trethan@> wrote:
> >
> > On Tue, 30 May 2006 21:12:00 +0200, <drachels1@> wrote:
> > 
> > > I found this group last night while looking for ways to use a 
pen
> > > plotter to apply etch resist to PCBs.  It appears from my 
limited
> > > perspective that you guys have found a way to use an inkjet 
for 
> this
> > > and much more?  Would someone be so kind as to point me in the 
> right
> > > direction to learn how you are doing this.  This will solve a 
> number
> > > of issues for me.  Thank you!!!!
> > > DRR
> > 
> > 
> > The established and most used methods currently are tiner 
transfer 
> and  
> > photo process.
> > Inkjet printing is something we are still working on, but i 
> wouldn't see  
> > why someone couldn't jump right into it.
> > 
> > It's basically all about the ink, Volkan found one that works, 
> MISPRO  
> > yellow, at inksupply.com.
> > It's also about the head, you need a newer printer with many 
> nozzles. See  
> > previous posts for example models, but all the newer ones with 
> variable  
> > drop size should be the right kind..
> > You basically figure out a way how to feed the PCBs through the 
> printer  
> > and you also need to cure the ink before etching with heat, a 
> stove plate  
> > works, when it starts to turn brown it is enough.
> > 
> > As you see, there isn't terribly much known about this so far. 
But 
> i'm  
> > confident everyone can duplicate it. I took me so long because i 
> had the  
> > wrong printer at first. With the right printer, and the right 
ink 

> in the  
> > cartridge, it basically worked within 5 minutes.
> > 
> > ST
> >
>

On Wed, 31 May 2006 21:49:07 +0200, dsv1486 <darrell.vandenberg@...>  
wrote:

> Thanks for the info, the people at inksupply.com are great they let
> me change my order to a 4oz bottle of yellow ink. I also purchased a
> lexmark z22 and 3200 at a thrift store for about 3 dollars each, I
> guess this will become my testbed for direct printing. what do you
> guys think about the lexmark route??


Bad idea, only the epsons are considered a good choice because they use a  
piezo head. It may work, but i don't think anyone knows for sure.

ST

No. That ink only works in Epson piezo print heads. All other desktop
printers are bubble jet.

Steve Greenfield


--- In Homebrew_PCBs@...m, "dsv1486"
<darrell.vandenberg@...> wrote:

>
> Thanks for the info, the people at inksupply.com are great they let 
> me change my order to a 4oz bottle of yellow ink. I also purchased a 
> lexmark z22 and 3200 at a thrift store for about 3 dollars each, I 
> guess this will become my testbed for direct printing. what do you 
> guys think about the lexmark route??

Stefan,
Please go back and take a look at my previous request in Message #
14557.  I was in the hospital for awhile, and then had surgery a
couple of weeks ago, and I've missed the details on exactly which
Epson models are good for direct print, and which after-market ink you
used (same as Volkan's?).

I'd really appreciate it!

Thanks,
Ted

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Stefan Trethan"
<stefan_trethan@...> wrote:
>
> On Wed, 31 May 2006 21:49:07 +0200, dsv1486 <darrell.vandenberg@...>  
> wrote:
> 
---snip---

> Bad idea, only the epsons are considered a good choice because they
use a  
> piezo head. It may work, but i don't think anyone knows for sure.
> 
> ST
---snip---

Yes, i was going to answer that, started with it but never finished, so  
far ;-)
Anyway, now is as good a time as any.

Ok, summing up..

We know the CX4200 works (Volkan). We know the C84 works (me).
We know the stylus color 600 doesn't work, because i tried it.

CX4200:
Monochrome head 90 nozzles, Color head 90 nozzles x 3 (CMY)
Variable Droplet Size: Six sizes as small as 3 picoliters
Up to 5760 x 1440 optimized dpi
Ink Type DURABrite\ufffd Ultra Inks

C84:
Monochrome head 180 nozzles,
Color head 59 nozzles x 3 (CMY)
Minimum Ink Droplet Size Variable Six sizes as small as 3 picoliters
Up to 5760 x 1440 optimized dpi
Ink Type DURABrite\ufffd Inks


Stylus color 600:
64 black nozzles, 32 per color.
1440x720 resolution.
does not work


The problem with the 600 was that there were individual lines printed, not  
close enough together to form a closed surface.
I think the higher resolution/number of nozzles solves that in the newer  
printers. Variable droplet size may be a factor too.
All the working printers used durabright ink, but i do not really think  
this is a factor since all printers will take the mispro ink.
So IMO really any of the newer printers will work, maybe any that have  
1440 dpi in y direction since that was where the gaps occured.


The ink i tried is MISPRO ink from inksupply.com. I only have yellow and  
black, but i would agree yellow seems much better than black as a resist.  
Mixing other mispro colors into yellow does not seem damaging, but i had  
pelikan brand aftermarket ink in the blue cart and it would bead up on the  
copper when mixed with yellow mispro (in the black head). I had injected  
some distilled water into this blue cartridge (to refill) so maybe the ink  
itself would not have had such a negative effect.

The ink must be cured. More research must be put into that (but nobody  
seems to have volunteered to build that SMD/curing oven, or even make one  
too and copy me the software, so...). So far i only put the PCB on the  
electridc stove plate switched it on and waited for the ink to turn  
slightly brownish. With a oven it will be easier to try different  
temperatures and also it will be practical for 2-sided boards.

Anyway, i have not yet scanned the test PCB, it is a 1cm wide strip  
reading @@@Homebrew_PCBs@@@ in a very small font. It isn't 100%perfect but  
it's worlds better than the first toner transfer PCB i did. In one spot it  
came out perfect, towards the end it shows some error but it think this is  
where the small strip left the feed roller and was propelled forward. Also  
the pizza wheels were still in but apparently didn't do much harm. I  
bought USB extensions instead of USB cables so i'll have to move stuff  
around to get that scanner up and running again. One would really need  
larger boards to test and tweak this fully.
I've done some more work on the printer so that i can get larger boards  
through, but i'd really like to raise the head also.

ST



On Thu, 01 Jun 2006 21:02:24 +0200, kilocycles <kilocycles@...>  
wrote:

> Stefan,
> Please go back and take a look at my previous request in Message #
> 14557.  I was in the hospital for awhile, and then had surgery a
> couple of weeks ago, and I've missed the details on exactly which
> Epson models are good for direct print, and which after-market ink you
> used (same as Volkan's?).
> I'd really appreciate it!
> Thanks,
> Ted

> The ink must be cured. More research must be put into that (but nobody
> seems to have volunteered to build that SMD/curing oven, or even make one
> too and copy me the software, so...). So far i only put the PCB on the

I'm in the UK, about 6 month ago the market was swamped with little
ovens that had a heater top and bottom, I think they are radiant infra
red, about 800w(400w*2) on uk 220v

I think they would make good little pcb ovens, once a thermostat is added.

retail for about £10 / $20 in cut price stores and carboots(large
communial yard sale in a field)

little oven....

price can vary wildly, but I got mine for £14/$28


http://www.abask.com.tw/cgi-bin/productfn/pdt_detail_lst.pl?ProdID=6

http://www.getforless.com/album/BINMO4200.JPG

http://www.caravanadditions.co.uk/acatalog/Low_Power_Appliances.html

Got one!

 

Works well, but need to take the manual thermostat out as it is all over the
shop! 

 

 

Available from Amazon.  Called Toaster Ovens!

 

http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0002HDMPG/qid=1149194059/sr=8-1/re
f=sr_8_xs_ap_i1_xgl/202-3672928-4528616

 

Andy

 

  _____  

From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Lez
Sent: 01 June 2006 21:28
To: Homebrew_PCBs@...m
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Non-Newb Catch-up-Was: Re: Newb Catch-Up

 

> The ink must be cured. More research must be put into that (but nobody
> seems to have volunteered to build that SMD/curing oven, or even make one
> too and copy me the software, so...). So far i only put the PCB on the

I'm in the UK, about 6 month ago the market was swamped with little
ovens that had a heater top and bottom, I think they are radiant infra
red, about 800w(400w*2) on uk 220v

I think they would make good little pcb ovens, once a thermostat is added.

retail for about £10 / $20 in cut price stores and carboots(large
communial yard sale in a field)


Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs

If Files or Photos are running short of space, post them here:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/ 




SPONSORED LINKS 


Electrical
<http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Electrical+engineering+degree+online&w1
=Electrical+engineering+degree+online&w2=Electrical+engineering+degree&w3=Pr
inted+circuit+board&w4=Electrical+engineering&w5=Electrical+engineering+cour
se&w6=Electrical+engineering+graduate+school&c=6&s=211&.sig=j8BDcUZHaUFXRiTd
GW1cNQ>  engineering degree online 

Electrical
<http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Electrical+engineering+degree&w1=Electr
ical+engineering+degree+online&w2=Electrical+engineering+degree&w3=Printed+c
ircuit+board&w4=Electrical+engineering&w5=Electrical+engineering+course&w6=E
lectrical+engineering+graduate+school&c=6&s=211&.sig=1hRjimUH1bArkHkhwLHsKQ>
engineering degree 

Printed
<http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Printed+circuit+board&w1=Electrical+eng
ineering+degree+online&w2=Electrical+engineering+degree&w3=Printed+circuit+b
oard&w4=Electrical+engineering&w5=Electrical+engineering+course&w6=Electrica
l+engineering+graduate+school&c=6&s=211&.sig=w-9RSkp3c_F5z9sFsIUKCg>
circuit board 


Electrical
<http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Electrical+engineering&w1=Electrical+en
gineering+degree+online&w2=Electrical+engineering+degree&w3=Printed+circuit+
board&w4=Electrical+engineering&w5=Electrical+engineering+course&w6=Electric
al+engineering+graduate+school&c=6&s=211&.sig=kdeBl4DzkdrbwYZnXCp4qA>
engineering 

Electrical
<http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Electrical+engineering+course&w1=Electr
ical+engineering+degree+online&w2=Electrical+engineering+degree&w3=Printed+c
ircuit+board&w4=Electrical+engineering&w5=Electrical+engineering+course&w6=E
lectrical+engineering+graduate+school&c=6&s=211&.sig=b2N2CgZCtQayHKIbuMnSbw>
engineering course 

Electrical
<http://groups.yahoo.com/gads?t=ms&k=Electrical+engineering+graduate+school&
w1=Electrical+engineering+degree+online&w2=Electrical+engineering+degree&w3=
Printed+circuit+board&w4=Electrical+engineering&w5=Electrical+engineering+co
urse&w6=Electrical+engineering+graduate+school&c=6&s=211&.sig=4vee4qVM4QxoRd
I6upxwMg>  engineering graduate school 

 

  _____  

YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS 

 

*	 Visit your group "Homebrew_PCBs
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs> " on the web.
  
*	 To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
 Homebrew_PCBs-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:Homebrew_PCBs-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com?subject=Unsubscribe> 
  
*	 Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo!
<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>  Terms of Service. 

 

  _____  



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> Got one!
>
>
>
> Works well, but need to take the manual thermostat out as it is all over the
> shop!
>

Ha you got the delux model, mine has no thermostat, just a heat
setting switch (400/800w) and a clockwork 60 minute timer.

On Thu, 01 Jun 2006 22:27:36 +0200, Lez <lez.briddon@...> wrote:

> I'm in the UK, about 6 month ago the market was swamped with little
> ovens that had a heater top and bottom, I think they are radiant infra
> red, about 800w(400w*2) on uk 220v
> I think they would make good little pcb ovens, once a thermostat is  
> added.
> retail for about \ufffd10 / $20 in cut price stores and carboots(large
> communial yard sale in a field)


I got plenty of ovens in the attic just waiting to be converted!
But no time to make a controller.

ST

You may want to check on them!!! Maybe the mice are using them to cook 
their dinners ;--)

Chris

> I got plenty of ovens in the attic just waiting to be converted!
> But no time to make a controller.
> 
> ST
>

I am working on HP inks, and still trying to combat a puddling problem on 
copper boards, but initial tests with foil seemed to hold up to warm running 
water for 20 minutes. I did try the foil tests with my lexmark, and all the 
inks came off within the first few seconds. This was with using a hair dryer 
to cure the ink. 

YMMV

Christopher Hart

On Wednesday 31 May 2006 16:21, Stefan Trethan wrote:
> On Wed, 31 May 2006 21:49:07 +0200, dsv1486 <darrell.vandenberg@...>
>
> wrote:
> > Thanks for the info, the people at inksupply.com are great they let
> > me change my order to a 4oz bottle of yellow ink. I also purchased a
> > lexmark z22 and 3200 at a thrift store for about 3 dollars each, I
> > guess this will become my testbed for direct printing. what do you
> > guys think about the lexmark route??
>
> Bad idea, only the epsons are considered a good choice because they use a
> piezo head. It may work, but i don't think anyone knows for sure.
>
> ST

In article <c3241b80606011327w7ecae4e9m7ae8602642ecec9d@...>,
   Lez <lez.briddon@...> wrote:
> > The ink must be cured. More research must be put into that (but nobody
> > seems to have volunteered to build that SMD/curing oven, or even make one
> > too and copy me the software, so...). So far i only put the PCB on the

> I'm in the UK, about 6 month ago the market was swamped with little
> ovens that had a heater top and bottom, I think they are radiant infra
> red, about 800w(400w*2) on uk 220v

> I think they would make good little pcb ovens, once a thermostat is added.

There was an article in Elektor magazine on how to do that, except it was
a little more than a thermostat. They used a controller that gave the
proper temperature cycling rates and steps.