Homebrew PCBs

I picked up an old HP LJ-III that the owner didn't
care to get fixed. Understandably, since it had toner
encrusted everywhere inside and giving error messages.
After cleaning it up and replacing the fuser from a
junked unit it still had issues with the pickup
roller. It was worn down and dried out with lots of
little cracks and a glassy appearance. On a lucky day
it might move one sheet in ten a cm or two, not enough
to get it into the printer. The one in the junk unit
was in an equally sorry state.

Washing and treating with glycerine didn't do any
good. It seems to have lost a bit of diameter due to
wear and drying out. By the look of the cracks the
drying out is quite deep so sanding down to fresh
rubber would probably have made things worse. Anyway,
I hate doing irreversible mods to hard-to-replace
parts unless I'm sure it's needed and will work.

After a bit of brain-storming I cut off a piece of
bicycle inner tubing slightly longer than the roller.
The tubing is a bit narrower than the roller so it
gives a nice tight fit. Turning the mouth of the tube
inside out makes it easier to thread it over the
roller. It helps that it's covered with talcum making
it slick and and easy to push on. Wipe off as much of
the talcum from the outside as possible, it will
become the inside, the talcum on the inside (shortly
outside) helps slipping it over. Carefully trim the
edges with a sharp knife.

Even after wiping off the talcum it's still kind of
slick but now I have no compunction giving it a good
going over with sand paper rubbing off the slippery
parts. If something goes wrong I still have the intact
part and can try it over again.

The result? Perfect! The roller has a nice rough
rubber surface at what seems to be the original
diameter. It's picked up every single sheet for months
now without failure. Even better, when and if needed I
can do it again and still have the cake, er, the
original part.

- YD.


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On Tue, 22 Aug 2006 15:29:04 +0200, YD <yd_br@...> wrote:

>
> The result? Perfect! The roller has a nice rough
> rubber surface at what seems to be the original
> diameter. It's picked up every single sheet for months
> now without failure. Even better, when and if needed I
> can do it again and still have the cake, er, the
> original part.
> - YD.


Thank you!

That is a good Tip for me, i recently bought a replacement for the upper  
pickup roller (very cheap on ebay nobody wanted it), but this way i can  
also fix the lower roller on my IIID.

I tried sanding the original roller but it never worked any better,  
glycerine did no good either,

The "cracks" are "stock" with those rollers, they are there as friction  
ridges (like one your hands and feet) to make it grip. But the surface  
wears down and goes shiny as you observed and it just won't work properly  
any more.

BTW someone recently suggested a strange chemical to do just this roller  
repair, it was called something crazy like oil of wintergreen or  
something. Now my chemicals shop sells sea foam dust and dragon blood but  
i don't think they have heard of that wintergreen stuff. I looked it up  
and it is methyl salicylate, but that don't show up on their inventory  
list either, maybe it has another name i'm not aware of.


ST

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Stefan Trethan"
<stefan_trethan@...> wrote:
...
> BTW someone recently suggested a strange chemical to do just this
roller  
> repair, it was called something crazy like oil of wintergreen or  
> something. Now my chemicals shop sells sea foam dust and dragon
blood but  
> i don't think they have heard of that wintergreen stuff. I looked it
up  
> and it is methyl salicylate, but that don't show up on their inventory  
> list either, maybe it has another name i'm not aware of.

I recall the post, yes it was oil of wintergreen.

I've used brake fluid as rubber rejuvinator in a pinch. Don't leave it
on very long!

Steve Greenfield

Try wintergreen flavoring from the grocery store. The main ingredient is oil
of wintergreen.

Myc

On 8/22/06, Stefan Trethan <stefan_trethan@...> wrote:
>
> On Tue, 22 Aug 2006 15:29:04 +0200, YD <yd_br@...> wrote:
>
> >
> > The result? Perfect! The roller has a nice rough
> > rubber surface at what seems to be the original
> > diameter. It's picked up every single sheet for months
> > now without failure. Even better, when and if needed I
> > can do it again and still have the cake, er, the
> > original part.
> > - YD.
>
>
> Thank you!
>
> That is a good Tip for me, i recently bought a replacement for the upper
> pickup roller (very cheap on ebay nobody wanted it), but this way i can
> also fix the lower roller on my IIID.
>
> I tried sanding the original roller but it never worked any better,
> glycerine did no good either,
>
> The "cracks" are "stock" with those rollers, they are there as friction
> ridges (like one your hands and feet) to make it grip. But the surface
> wears down and goes shiny as you observed and it just won't work properly
> any more.
>
> BTW someone recently suggested a strange chemical to do just this roller
> repair, it was called something crazy like oil of wintergreen or
> something. Now my chemicals shop sells sea foam dust and dragon blood but
> i don't think they have heard of that wintergreen stuff. I looked it up
> and it is methyl salicylate, but that don't show up on their inventory
> list either, maybe it has another name i'm not aware of.
>
>
> ST
>
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
> Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>
> If Files or Photos are running short of space, post them here:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Turpentine works quite well, and is probably easier to find.  

At an old job one I the things I had to do requarly was dismandle the lasers
and clear the rollers.  We used to print labels - lots of labels - and
eventually the adhesive would build up.

Turpentine cleaned the rollers quite well, and removed a slight bit of
rubber, would probably soften up old ones too.

Chemists would have oil of wintergreen.  It's one of those things that's
supposed to stop arthritis pain, etc.

Tony

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com 
> [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Myc Holmes
> Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2006 8:32 PM
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Tip: Repairing a HP LJ-III pickup roller.
> 
> Try wintergreen flavoring from the grocery store. The main 
> ingredient is oil of wintergreen.
> 
> Myc
> 
> On 8/22/06, Stefan Trethan <stefan_trethan@...> wrote:
> >
> > On Tue, 22 Aug 2006 15:29:04 +0200, YD <yd_br@...> wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > The result? Perfect! The roller has a nice rough rubber 
> surface at 
> > > what seems to be the original diameter. It's picked up 
> every single 
> > > sheet for months now without failure. Even better, when and if 
> > > needed I can do it again and still have the cake, er, the 
> original 
> > > part.
> > > - YD.
> >
> >
> > Thank you!
> >
> > That is a good Tip for me, i recently bought a replacement for the 
> > upper pickup roller (very cheap on ebay nobody wanted it), but this 
> > way i can also fix the lower roller on my IIID.
> >
> > I tried sanding the original roller but it never worked any better, 
> > glycerine did no good either,
> >
> > The "cracks" are "stock" with those rollers, they are there as 
> > friction ridges (like one your hands and feet) to make it grip. But 
> > the surface wears down and goes shiny as you observed and it just 
> > won't work properly any more.
> >
> > BTW someone recently suggested a strange chemical to do just this 
> > roller repair, it was called something crazy like oil of 
> wintergreen 
> > or something. Now my chemicals shop sells sea foam dust and dragon 
> > blood but i don't think they have heard of that wintergreen 
> stuff. I 
> > looked it up and it is methyl salicylate, but that don't show up on 
> > their inventory list either, maybe it has another name i'm 
> not aware of.
> >
> >
> > ST
> >
> >
> > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
> > Photos:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
> >
> > If Files or Photos are running short of space, post them here:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
> 
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, 
> Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
> 
> If Files or Photos are running short of space, post them here:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
> 
>

On Wed, 23 Aug 2006 12:31:53 +0200, Myc Holmes <mycroft2152y@...>  
wrote:

> Try wintergreen flavoring from the grocery store. The main ingredient is  
> oil
> of wintergreen.
> Myc

That's not something we have here...

ST

In article <op.teqjadslmg0lsf@tu-x2pj5qeyp2u4>,
   Stefan Trethan <stefan_trethan@...> wrote:
> On Wed, 23 Aug 2006 12:31:53 +0200, Myc Holmes <mycroft2152y@...>  
> wrote:

> > Try wintergreen flavoring from the grocery store. The main ingredient is  
> > oil
> > of wintergreen.
> > Myc

> That's not something we have here...

Oil of Wintergreen used to be sold for "medicinal" purposes. IIRC it was
used for aches and pains - painful joints, rheumatism, that sort of thing.

Try a herbalists, health food shop or chemists

At 3:30 pm (PDT) Tue Oct 10, 2006, stuart.winsor wrote:
>In article <op.teqjadslmg0lsf@tu-x2pj5qeyp2u4>,
>    Stefan Trethan <stefan_trethan@...> wrote:
> > On Wed, 23 Aug 2006 12:31:53 +0200, Myc Holmes <mycroft2152y@...>
> > wrote:
> > > Try wintergreen flavoring from the grocery store.
> > > The main ingredient is oil of wintergreen.
> > > Myc
>
> > That's not something we have here...
>
>Oil of Wintergreen used to be sold for "medicinal" purposes. IIRC it was
>used for aches and pains - painful joints, rheumatism, that sort of thing.
>
>Try a herbalists, health food shop or chemists

As its name suggests, oil of wintergreen used to be a plant extract
but nowadays is often its pure synthetic equivalent, methyl salicylate.

As such, it is a close relative of aspirin, acetyl salicylate, which was
developed to mitigate the unpleasant digestive irritation caused by
traditional salicylate painkillers extracted from wintergreen or willow.
Once in the bloodstream, aspirin converts to the active salicylate.

In the flavoring we have a Mycroft interpretation of 'main ingredient'.
The 'active ingredient' which gives it its pleasant smell of gymnasia,
freshly cleaned guns or red biddy (depending on your upbringing ;)
is indeed methyl salicylate but the bulk is probably glycerine
or IPA as a solvent and diluent.

Since a typical dose of aspirin is 300mg, there cannot be much oil
of wintergreen in a food flavoring or it would need dosage warnings
on the label. I doubt there is enough to make much difference to a
hardened paper feed roller. However, if the diluent is IPA you might
be able to concentrate it by evaporation or repeated applications.

Should anyone obtain concentrated oil of wintergreen to do
the repair job, please take note that methyl salicylate is
skin-absorbable and there have been poisoning accidents.

Avoid skin contact with the liquid, especially if you are
sensitive to aspirin or already on a high dose of an NSAID.


Regards, LenW

Len,

I am just so impressed with your ability to plagiarize a google search, so
you do get the gold medal. Come on everyone let's give Len the big cheer he
obviously craves.

The "Mycroft interpretation" of sourcing oil of wintergreen was a practical,
pragmatic and safe response. The use of a diluted version of methyl
salicylate as in flavoring minimizes the potential health issues as well as
the possibility of dissolving or softening the rubber to the point of
destruction. At the same time, it is also a convenient and inexpensive
source. Before handling any new chemical, the MSDS (Material Safety Data
Sheet) should be read and the safety procedures followed.

Your next google project is to explain "NSAID"

Myc


On 10/11/06, Len Warner <yahoo@...> wrote:
>
> y to
>
> At 3:30 pm (PDT) Tue Oct 10, 2006, stuart.winsor wrote:
> >In article <op.teqjadslmg0lsf@tu-x2pj5qeyp2u4>,
> > Stefan Trethan <stefan_trethan@... <stefan_trethan%40gmx.at>> wrote:
> > > On Wed, 23 Aug 2006 12:31:53 +0200, Myc Holmes <mycroft2152y@...<mycroft2152y%40gmail.com>
> >
> > > wrote:
> > > > Try wintergreen flavoring from the grocery store.
> > > > The main ingredient is oil of wintergreen.
> > > > Myc
> >
> > > That's not something we have here...
> >
> >Oil of Wintergreen used to be sold for "medicinal" purposes. IIRC it was
> >used for aches and pains - painful joints, rheumatism, that sort of
> thing.
> >
> >Try a herbalists, health food shop or chemists
>
> As its name suggests, oil of wintergreen used to be a plant extract
> but nowadays is often its pure synthetic equivalent, methyl salicylate.
>
> As such, it is a close relative of aspirin, acetyl salicylate, which was
> developed to mitigate the unpleasant digestive irritation caused by
> traditional salicylate painkillers extracted from wintergreen or willow.
> Once in the bloodstream, aspirin converts to the active salicylate.
>
> In the flavoring we have a Mycroft interpretation of 'main ingredient'.
> The 'active ingredient' which gives it its pleasant smell of gymnasia,
> freshly cleaned guns or red biddy (depending on your upbringing ;)
> is indeed methyl salicylate but the bulk is probably glycerine
> or IPA as a solvent and diluent.
>
> Since a typical dose of aspirin is 300mg, there cannot be much oil
> of wintergreen in a food flavoring or it would need dosage warnings
> on the label. I doubt there is enough to make much difference to a
> hardened paper feed roller. However, if the diluent is IPA you might
> be able to concentrate it by evaporation or repeated applications.
>
> Should anyone obtain concentrated oil of wintergreen to do
> the repair job, please take note that methyl salicylate is
> skin-absorbable and there have been poisoning accidents.
>
> Avoid skin contact with the liquid, especially if you are
> sensitive to aspirin or already on a high dose of an NSAID.
>
> Regards, LenW
>
> 
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

On Wed, 11 Oct 2006 17:45:24 +0200, Myc Holmes <mycroft2152y@...>  
wrote:

> Len,
> I am just so impressed with your ability to plagiarize a google search,  
> so
> you do get the gold medal. Come on everyone let's give Len the big cheer  
> he
> obviously craves.
> The "Mycroft interpretation" of sourcing oil of wintergreen was a  
> practical,
> pragmatic and safe response. The use of a diluted version of methyl
> salicylate as in flavoring minimizes the potential health issues as well  
> as
> the possibility of dissolving or softening the rubber to the point of
> destruction. At the same time, it is also a convenient and inexpensive
> source. Before handling any new chemical, the MSDS (Material Safety Data
> Sheet) should be read and the safety procedures followed.
> Your next google project is to explain "NSAID"
> Myc


But he had one useful point though, is it definitely the oil of  
wintergreen doing the work?
I mean if it is only present in small concentrations in those substances  
used chances are it may not be the active agent, do we have any assurance  
it is?
I was told a long time ago glycerin can make rubber soft again. I dunno if  
it is  true, and for which kinds of rubber, but i couldn't see any change  
when i soaked something for weeks.

ST

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Myc Holmes" <mycroft2152y@...>
wrote:
>
> Len,
> 
> I am just so impressed with your ability to plagiarize a google
search, so
> you do get the gold medal. Come on everyone let's give Len the big
cheer he
> obviously craves.

It's certainly better than those on other lists who post before even
the most rudimentary of searches. Electronics_101 gets it's share or
more of "tell me all about transistors and how they were invented and
how they work and how they can be used and please email it to me as a
1000 word essay by this friday".

Steve Greenfield