Homebrew PCBs

Hi,

After switching to niponcio's method of using label backing paper for
the TT, one major source of pain has gone away.

Now for another painful area - cutting boards.

I tried a jigsaw mounted upside down under a table - worked great for a
few cuts, till the teeth wore out - I gave it up because I knew the cost
of blades would quickly start to add up.

Then, a hardware store salesman recommended I build a mitre box, and cut
the board along-ways with a hacksaw. This works well - gets a very clean
precise cut, but long (15cm/6inch) cuts take 5 minutes of hard sawing
and gives me sore arms.

I considered a band saw but those things cost more than I'm ready to pay
at this time.

Can anyone offer any better ideas for fast precise cutting of boards
using cheap equipment?

Cheers
David

Hi David.

I have seen a reciprocating hacksaw system used for cutting large 
diameter pipes. Maybe a weekend with a motorised geared circular drive, 
offset cam and some angle iron might produce a design worth considering.

How's the cricket going?

Regards,

Ross Mckenzie
ValuSoft
Melbourne Australia

David McNab wrote:

> Hi,
>
> After switching to niponcio's method of using label backing paper for
> the TT, one major source of pain has gone away.
>
> Now for another painful area - cutting boards.
>
> I tried a jigsaw mounted upside down under a table - worked great for a
> few cuts, till the teeth wore out - I gave it up because I knew the cost
> of blades would quickly start to add up.
>
> Then, a hardware store salesman recommended I build a mitre box, and cut
> the board along-ways with a hacksaw. This works well - gets a very clean
> precise cut, but long (15cm/6inch) cuts take 5 minutes of hard sawing
> and gives me sore arms.
>
> I considered a band saw but those things cost more than I'm ready to pay
> at this time.
>
> Can anyone offer any better ideas for fast precise cutting of boards
> using cheap equipment?
>
> Cheers
> David
>
>

----- Original Message ----- 

From: "David McNab" <rebirth@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 21, 2007 7:38 AM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] cutting boards - methods?


> Hi,
>
> After switching to niponcio's method of using label backing paper for
> the TT, one major source of pain has gone away.
>
> Now for another painful area - cutting boards.
>
> I tried a jigsaw mounted upside down under a table - worked great for a
> few cuts, till the teeth wore out - I gave it up because I knew the cost
> of blades would quickly start to add up.
>
> Then, a hardware store salesman recommended I build a mitre box, and cut
> the board along-ways with a hacksaw. This works well - gets a very clean
> precise cut, but long (15cm/6inch) cuts take 5 minutes of hard sawing
> and gives me sore arms.
>
> I considered a band saw but those things cost more than I'm ready to pay
> at this time.
>
> Can anyone offer any better ideas for fast precise cutting of boards
> using cheap equipment?

A tile cutter is supposed to work quite well. I score both sides with a 
Stanley knife and then snap the board; it's quite easy with the FPC1 
material I use (paper/fibreglass composite) but somewhat harder with FR4.

Leon
--
Leon Heller
Amateur radio call-sign G1HSM
Yaesu FT-817ND transceiver
Suzuki SV1000S motorcycle
leon355@...
http://www.geocities.com/leon_heller

1. Use metal cutting blades in the jigsaw.
or -
2. Break to suitable length one of the hacksaw blades that work well for 
you, grind a suitable end on it, and use it in the jig saw (watch which 
way the teeth point!)

Run the jigsaw at relatively low speed to minimize heat in the sawblade 
teeth.

3. Score the board with a boxcutter and straightedge and snap it - allow 
a bit for sanding the edge smooth - wet/dry carbide paper and a flat 
surface works well, or a stationary disc sander, if you have one.

Sanding cleans up a sawn edge nicely, also.

Norm

David McNab wrote:

> Hi,
>
> After switching to niponcio's method of using label backing paper for
> the TT, one major source of pain has gone away.
>
> Now for another painful area - cutting boards.
>
> I tried a jigsaw mounted upside down under a table - worked great for a
> few cuts, till the teeth wore out - I gave it up because I knew the cost
> of blades would quickly start to add up.
>
> Then, a hardware store salesman recommended I build a mitre box, and cut
> the board along-ways with a hacksaw. This works well - gets a very clean
> precise cut, but long (15cm/6inch) cuts take 5 minutes of hard sawing
> and gives me sore arms.
>
> I considered a band saw but those things cost more than I'm ready to pay
> at this time.
>
> Can anyone offer any better ideas for fast precise cutting of boards
> using cheap equipment?
>
> Cheers
> David
>
>
>
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>
> If Files or Photos are running short of space, post them here:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/ 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>

Well it's not the cheapest way.  One of my many hobby's woodworking and
building acrylic equipment for Saltwater Aquariums, I use the router.  I
have it mounted upside down in a table top and use a carbide "V" bit.

I set the fence to what size I need, adjust the bit to just score half
the copper board then flip it over for the other side.  For cleaning up
the edge,  I just run it over some sand paper on top of the bench a
couple of times and done.

I've tried the hacksaw method and it cuts crooked, the blades on the
scroll saw got dull too quickly and cost to much.

good luck

cw





--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Leon" <leon355@...> wrote:
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "David McNab" rebirth@...
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sunday, January 21, 2007 7:38 AM
> Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] cutting boards - methods?
>
>
> > Hi,
> >
> > After switching to niponcio's method of using label backing paper
for
> > the TT, one major source of pain has gone away.
> >
> > Now for another painful area - cutting boards.
> >
> > I tried a jigsaw mounted upside down under a table - worked great
for a
> > few cuts, till the teeth wore out - I gave it up because I knew the
cost
> > of blades would quickly start to add up.
> >
> > Then, a hardware store salesman recommended I build a mitre box, and
cut
> > the board along-ways with a hacksaw. This works well - gets a very
clean
> > precise cut, but long (15cm/6inch) cuts take 5 minutes of hard
sawing
> > and gives me sore arms.
> >
> > I considered a band saw but those things cost more than I'm ready to
pay
> > at this time.
> >
> > Can anyone offer any better ideas for fast precise cutting of boards
> > using cheap equipment?
>
> A tile cutter is supposed to work quite well. I score both sides with
a
> Stanley knife and then snap the board; it's quite easy with the FPC1
> material I use (paper/fibreglass composite) but somewhat harder with
FR4.

>
> Leon
> --
> Leon Heller
> Amateur radio call-sign G1HSM
> Yaesu FT-817ND transceiver
> Suzuki SV1000S motorcycle
> leon355@...
> http://www.geocities.com/leon_heller
>

On Sun, 21 Jan 2007 08:38:07 +0100, David McNab <rebirth@...>  
wrote:

>
> I tried a jigsaw mounted upside down under a table - worked great for a
> few cuts, till the teeth wore out - I gave it up because I knew the cost
> of blades would quickly start to add up.


Also, you get glass fiber dust into the machine, which i'm sure makes a  
great grinding paste combined with the grease.

There are two options - sawing and shearing.

Sawing gives a better edge, but is usually slower, more noisy, and dusty.  
You can use a carbide blade in a small circular saw - that gives an  
absolutely perfect smooth, square, straight edge. Looks even better than  
professionally milled IMO. Proxxon makes such a blade and saw, for  
example. Some also reported reasonable success with diamond blades in  
tilecutters (wet), i have not tried that myself yet.

The second option, shearing, is quick, clean, quiet, and has virtually no  
wear on the blades used. The only disadvantage is the edges are not as  
clean, they are "broken". After a quick sanding they are nice enough  
though. You can use bench mounted shears, for example bungard makes one  
specially for PCBs but the sheetmetal ones work too. That type has a wide  
blade that cuts the whole width at once. You can also use a bench mounted  
lever shear, which is much cheaper, and has a blade about 15cm long, so  
you may need to use several cuts for the larger boards, not a problem  
since a lever shear is designed to let the sheetmetal run through. The cut  
of the lever shear looks slightly worse than of the guillotine version to  
me, i expect it comes from the slight twisting action of the cut. Another  
option is a handheld sheetmetal shear "tin snips". Sturdy ones that are  
designed to let the metal run through straight work quite well. I used  
those for a while before the lever shear. Some people have also reported  
success with larger paper cutters.

I can recommend the shearing, since there is no noticeable wear and no  
dust. But the carbide blade in the circular saw made a fabulous cut, i  
just wouldn't want the dust and noise all the time. For me the quality of  
a lever-shear cut is easily sufficient, and i got one free, so that is  
what i currently use.

ST

What about buying the PCB material already cut to size? I just bought
a bunch of blank boards from Mouser, 3 x 5 inches. They have a bunch
of other sizes as well.

Neil

I score either side of the board with a razor knife and snap it on the 
edge of a table. This works fine for larger boards where you don't mind 
if it's off by a few mm.
--
Martin K

Neil Baylis wrote:

>
> What about buying the PCB material already cut to size? I just bought
> a bunch of blank boards from Mouser, 3 x 5 inches. They have a bunch
> of other sizes as well.
>
> Neil
>
>

-  I have been using a 6" bench mounted guillotine for the past 3 
years and would not go back to any of the other methods.
                   Barry G1VZW

-- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, David McNab <rebirth@...> wrote:
>
> Hi,
> 
> After switching to niponcio's method of using label backing paper 
for
> the TT, one major source of pain has gone away.
> 
> Now for another painful area - cutting boards.
> 
> I tried a jigsaw mounted upside down under a table - worked great 
for a
> few cuts, till the teeth wore out - I gave it up because I knew the 
cost
> of blades would quickly start to add up.
> 
> Then, a hardware store salesman recommended I build a mitre box, 
and cut
> the board along-ways with a hacksaw. This works well - gets a very 
clean
> precise cut, but long (15cm/6inch) cuts take 5 minutes of hard 
sawing
> and gives me sore arms.
> 
> I considered a band saw but those things cost more than I'm ready 
to pay

> at this time.
> 
> Can anyone offer any better ideas for fast precise cutting of boards
> using cheap equipment?
> 
> Cheers
> David
>

I've used a small (4") composition metal-cutting blade for a zip router. It
makes a nice clean cut with a small kerf (about 0.05") but you need to do it
outside with a fan to blow away the dust and smoke. That dust will kill you.
I built a small wet saw using the same blade which worked well but was too
messy. I think my next step will be to get a shear if I can find one the
right size and cost. I cut a couple of boards on a table saw with a 10"
plywood blade which is now dull as a result and must be replaced. That
fiberglass dulls everything but carbide or diamonds. I have a 16" paper
cutter but I don't want to take a chance on dulling it since I just finished
sharpening and refurbishing it.
--
Phil Mattison
http://www.ohmikron.com/
Motors::Drivers::Controllers::Software

----- Original Message -----
From: David McNab <rebirth@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 21, 2007 12:38 AM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] cutting boards - methods?


> Hi,
>
> After switching to niponcio's method of using label backing paper for
> the TT, one major source of pain has gone away.
>
> Now for another painful area - cutting boards.
>
> I tried a jigsaw mounted upside down under a table - worked great for a
> few cuts, till the teeth wore out - I gave it up because I knew the cost
> of blades would quickly start to add up.
>
> Then, a hardware store salesman recommended I build a mitre box, and cut
> the board along-ways with a hacksaw. This works well - gets a very clean
> precise cut, but long (15cm/6inch) cuts take 5 minutes of hard sawing
> and gives me sore arms.
>
> I considered a band saw but those things cost more than I'm ready to pay
> at this time.
>
> Can anyone offer any better ideas for fast precise cutting of boards
> using cheap equipment?
>
> Cheers
> David
>
>
>
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
Photos:

> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>
> If Files or Photos are running short of space, post them here:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs_Archives/
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

On Sun, 21 Jan 2007 20:59:35 +0100, Phil Mattison <mattison20@...>  
wrote:

>  I cut a couple of boards on a table saw with a 10"
> plywood blade which is now dull as a result and must be replaced.


Sharpen it?

Has anyone tried a circular saw blade with carbide tips? The small one i  
tried was solid carbide. I reckon one with the carbide tips brazed on may  
also work, but i'm not sure.

ST

I use a Dewalt scroll saw with #2 or #0/2 blades.  The thin blades cut
quickly, and with plywood shims I can use three different parts of the
blade before changing, giving me a couple of feet of cutting per
blade.  Also, I can cut boards down to a quarter of an inch this way.

Next time I'm at the woodworking store I'm going to buy a V-scoring
bit for my router table, though.

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, David McNab <rebirth@...> 
wrote:
>
> Hi,
> 
> After switching to niponcio's method of using label backing paper 
for
> the TT, one major source of pain has gone away.
> 
> Now for another painful area - cutting boards.
> 
> I tried a jigsaw mounted upside down under a table - worked great 
for a
> few cuts, till the teeth wore out - I gave it up because I knew 
the cost
> of blades would quickly start to add up.
> 
> Then, a hardware store salesman recommended I build a mitre box, 
and cut
> the board along-ways with a hacksaw. This works well - gets a very 
clean
> precise cut, but long (15cm/6inch) cuts take 5 minutes of hard 
sawing
> and gives me sore arms.
> 
> I considered a band saw but those things cost more than I'm ready 
to pay
> at this time.
> 
> Can anyone offer any better ideas for fast precise cutting of 
boards
> using cheap equipment?
> 
> Cheers
> David

David,

I have been making PCB at home now for some time. I usually buy 6" * 
9" precoated boards and cut them up on a 4 inch tablesaw I purchased 
from harbor freight. Go online at harborfreight.com and search for 
item# 93211. Don't pay the $49, wait for it to go on sale. I bought 
mine on sale in the store for $25. Take the blade that comes with it 
and throw it into the metal scrap bin. Go down to Lowes or HomeDepot 
and buy a 4 inch carbide tip blade. My buddy laughed at me when he 
saw the saw. He stopped laughing when I cut the PCB up like butter. 
When I was finished cutting I handed him the PCB, he couldn't tell 
which edge I cut and which edge was factory cut.

Ron

It too (Carbide tipped) will dull quickly - not sure why as carbide 
drills hold up so well.  But I can assure you, I have tried and it's 
not a good option.

Chris




-- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Stefan Trethan" 
<stefan_trethan@...> wrote:
>
> On Sun, 21 Jan 2007 20:59:35 +0100, Phil Mattison 
<mattison20@...>  
> wrote:
> 
> >  I cut a couple of boards on a table saw with a 10"
> > plywood blade which is now dull as a result and must be replaced.
> 
> 
> Sharpen it?
> 
> Has anyone tried a circular saw blade with carbide tips? The small 
one i  
> tried was solid carbide. I reckon one with the carbide tips brazed 
on may  

> also work, but i'm not sure.
> 
> ST
>

On Mon, 22 Jan 2007 12:32:28 +0100, lcdpublishing  
<lcdpublishing@...> wrote:

> It too (Carbide tipped) will dull quickly - not sure why as carbide
> drills hold up so well.  But I can assure you, I have tried and it's
> not a good option.
> Chris


Well the drills dull too, after not that many holes. You notice it most  
when you break one by accident, and the new one cuts much better. Some of  
my drills make a burr in the copper because they are dull. But drills are  
cheap, saw blades are not.

We are cutting glass after all, let's not forget that ;-)

ST

Yes, I too have noticed the same thing with drill bits, but as long 
as they make a decent hole, they are still sharp enough to cut ;-)

Glass is a bear to cut, no doubt.  I have only had moderate success 
with cutting it using tin snips.  Perhaps this year I can finally 
aford to get something appropriate like a shear or similar.  In the 
mean time, I will keep using that cabide tipped saw blade until it 
starts to shred as opposed to cut.  






--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Stefan Trethan" 
<stefan_trethan@...> wrote:
>
> On Mon, 22 Jan 2007 12:32:28 +0100, lcdpublishing  
> <lcdpublishing@...> wrote:
> 
> > It too (Carbide tipped) will dull quickly - not sure why as 
carbide
> > drills hold up so well.  But I can assure you, I have tried and 
it's
> > not a good option.
> > Chris
> 
> 
> Well the drills dull too, after not that many holes. You notice it 
most  
> when you break one by accident, and the new one cuts much better. 
Some of  
> my drills make a burr in the copper because they are dull. But 
drills are  

> cheap, saw blades are not.
> 
> We are cutting glass after all, let's not forget that ;-)
> 
> ST
>

On Mon, 22 Jan 2007 15:15:42 +0100, lcdpublishing  
<lcdpublishing@...> wrote:

> Yes, I too have noticed the same thing with drill bits, but as long
> as they make a decent hole, they are still sharp enough to cut ;-)

Decent is the word. You can punch a hole through FR4 with almost anything,  
but if you try HSS bits they'll soon melt-rub their way through rather  
than any form of cutting.
I do not mind if there is a small burr in the copper, PCB houses would  
change the drill bit long before it got that dull, i usually use them  
until they break.

> Glass is a bear to cut, no doubt.  I have only had moderate success
> with cutting it using tin snips.  Perhaps this year I can finally
> aford to get something appropriate like a shear or similar.  In the
> mean time, I will keep using that cabide tipped saw blade until it
> starts to shred as opposed to cut.

Even just because of the dust i would use a shear. I guess if one has a  
CNC those diamond pattern routers would work fine (i think PCB houses use  
them almost always for outline routing). With sufficient dust extraction  
that should work well, and would be very precise too. I've seen those bits  
on ebay.

ST

>That dust will kill you

I used a router to cut drywall indoors once and my wife banned me 
from ever using it again. Even with vacuum attachments to suck away 
the dust, they are a messy cutting option IMO.

>I think my next step will be to get a shear if I can find one the
>right size and cost.

Definitely the best option and most can bend as well. I got this 12" 
one (shear/brake/roller) from Harbor Freight abut 5 years ago but 
they don't seem to sell them anymore;

http://www.pbase.com/eldata/image/66633405/large


HF has a 8" one (shear/brake) for $129.00;

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=90757

Micro-Mark also sells one that's a bit pricey;

http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?
MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=83213


--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Phil Mattison" 
<mattison20@...> wrote:
>

Yes, those Burrs (you are calling them diamond cutters) work very 
well.  I use them for metal machining when I have very small cuts to 
make such as this morning.  I needed a .050" wide slot by .15" long in 
brass - total depth of cut .280".  This was for a spring loaded scribe 
I am making for the CNC router (Isolation scribing).

Those cutters would work great for cutting the PCB to size, but so 
far, I have not made any provisions for dust collection on the 
machine.  The drilling chips are relatively big and I am not worried 
about them getting airborn.  The chips (dust) from one of those 
cutters is certain to be smaller and more easily ingested into the 
lungs (of which I have not been to kind too for the last 45 years).

But, if I get to the point of having dust collection, I will be 
jumping at the chance to use the CNC router to cut the board to final 
size / shape as well.

Hopefully, this week I should be able to do my first real run through 
with CNC drilling and isolation scribing/etching.  I have a few more 
software bugs to fix though so not too sure.

The machine is working good for the most part though. I was machining 
some aluminum with it the other day - cut much better than I 
expected.  That little R/C car motor that I am using for the spindle 
seems to have enough power ;-)






> Even just because of the dust i would use a shear. I guess if one 
has a  
> CNC those diamond pattern routers would work fine (i think PCB 
houses use  
> them almost always for outline routing). With sufficient dust 
extraction  
> that should work well, and would be very precise too. I've seen 
those bits  

> on ebay.
> 
> ST
>

On Mon, 22 Jan 2007 17:28:01 +0100, lcdpublishing  
<lcdpublishing@...> wrote:

>
> The machine is working good for the most part though. I was machining
> some aluminum with it the other day - cut much better than I
> expected.  That little R/C car motor that I am using for the spindle
> seems to have enough power ;-)


I don't believe the scribe thing is ever going to work well, but you'll  
see.

Those R/C motors are plenty powerful. A few hundred watts is not unusual  
for RC aircraft motors.
But the brushed motors don't last long.

Maybe you should look into building a brushless motor. Should be very easy  
with your machining skills.
I know someone making brushless motors for CNC and machining applications  
and selling them for big bucks...

ST

Any idea or thoughts as to why scribing won't work?  As with 
everything else on this journey, I am sure I am overlooking 
something pretty obvious :-)

> I don't believe the scribe thing is ever going to work well, but 
you'll  
> see.

> Maybe you should look into building a brushless motor. Should be 
very easy  
> with your machining skills.
> I know someone making brushless motors for CNC and machining 
applications  
> and selling them for big bucks...

Not sure what a brushless motor is, but if it can be machined, I can 
probably make one :-)  Any links to information about making them?

Chris

On Mon, 22 Jan 2007 18:51:26 +0100, lcdpublishing  
<lcdpublishing@...> wrote:

>
> Not sure what a brushless motor is, but if it can be machined, I can
> probably make one :-)  Any links to information about making them?
> Chris


Try the lrk-torquemax yahoo group. Plenty of information not only about  
outrunners.

ST

"lcdpublishing" <lcdpublishing@...> writes:
> Not sure what a brushless motor is, but if it can be machined, I can
> probably make one :-) Any links to information about making them?

Don't know about links, but some background info:

I know of two types of brushless motors.  One has a permanent magnet
on the rotator, with three pairs of coils around it.  Applying out of
phase sine waves to the coils creates directional magnetic torque.
This is very common in large AC-drive motors, esp when three-phase
power is available.

The second type is a variable reluctance motor.  The rotator is just
ferrous metal, with N poles.  There are N-1 coils, so turning them on
in sequence drives the rotator in the other direction as it tries to
align its poles to the new fields.  This is common in stepper motors,
but can be used for high-power motors as well.

Aside from the mechanisms for generating torque, the contruction of
these are similar.

The Nova DVR lathe uses the second type of motor, see
http://www.teknatool.com/products/Lathes/DVR/Nova%20_DVR.htm

http://www.cs.uiowa.edu/~jones/step/types.html

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "lcdpublishing"
<lcdpublishing@...> wrote:
...
> Not sure what a brushless motor is, but if it can be machined, I can 
> probably make one :-)  Any links to information about making them?

An excellent source of info, plans, help, etc.:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/lrk-torquemax/

If you have a computer (snork) then you have at least 5 brushless
motors: hard drive, floppy, CDRom drive, CPU fan, power supply fan.

Almost all motors in electronics are brushless. CD and DVD, VCRs,
camcorders, etc.

The concept: The center rotor and its windings becomes the stator. The
outside stator and its magnets becomes the rotor. Now rather than
mechanically changing contacts via rotation past brushes, voltage is
electronically switched between windings. Some kind of current or
magnetic sensor is used to determine proper phasing.

It is sort of like driving a 3 phase stepping motor. Well, a lot like
it, actually.

Easiest way to see what is going on is to pull apart an old 3.5"
floppy drive and look at the motor driving the disk. In that case it
uses a flat rotor/magnet assembly with 4 poles, and a flattened 3
phase rotor (usually with 6 windings, 2 per pole). If you have a dual
trace or more O'scope, you can observe drive phase on the windings.

The toughest part of building a brushed electric motor IMHO is
balancing the rotor. Brushes waste more power than you probably think.
A big issue with high RPM brushed motors is that the windings may
deform and throw it out of balance. With a brushless motor with the
rotor outside, no problem with windings throwing things out of
balance, and the shell can be made -very- strong to contain the
magnets under high RPM.

They also don't generate the loads of electrical noise that brushed
motors tend to generate.

Steve Greenfield

Thanks guys,

I am going to have to dig into that, if for nothing else, just to 
learn about it.  Seems very interesting and if I can build a spindle 
motor with more speed and torque, well heck, that's just a super 
bonus :-)

Chris

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "lcdpublishing" 
<lcdpublishing@...> wrote:
>
> Thanks guys,
> 
> I am going to have to dig into that, if for nothing else, just to 
> learn about it.  Seems very interesting and if I can build a spindle 
> motor with more speed and torque, well heck, that's just a super 
> bonus :-)
> 
> Chris
>

Elektor electronics magazine, Feb 2006, have a contruction article for 
a brushless motor controller. The article is very informative on 
brushless motors but you need to buy it from  this url, remembering to 
join the whole url if it displays over more than one line. 
 
http://www.elektor-electronics.co.uk/Default.aspx?
tabid=28&year=2006&month=2&art=52973

On Monday 22 January 2007 10:13, derekhawkins wrote:
> >That dust will kill you
>
> I used a router to cut drywall indoors once and my wife banned me
> from ever using it again. Even with vacuum attachments to suck away
> the dust, they are a messy cutting option IMO.
>
> >I think my next step will be to get a shear if I can find one the
> >right size and cost.
>
> Definitely the best option and most can bend as well. I got this 12"
> one (shear/brake/roller) from Harbor Freight abut 5 years ago but
> they don't seem to sell them anymore;
>
> http://www.pbase.com/eldata/image/66633405/large
>
>
> HF has a 8" one (shear/brake) for $129.00;
>
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=90757
>
> Micro-Mark also sells one that's a bit pricey;
>
> http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?
> MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=83213
>
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Phil Mattison"
> <mattison20@...> wrote:
According to this,
http://www.pacificsites.com/~brooke/8MSB.shtml
The HF, Grizzly, and MicroMark 8" shears probably all come from the same 
factory in China, with different color paint, and different price tags.

(Grizzly's is $175)
http://www.grizzly.com/products/G9950

I think they may be a knock-off of the much more expensive Profiform shear:
http://www.profiform.com/en/products/pf200320.cfm

I don't have one yet, but these are also useful for project boxes, I think.  
They're not the cheapest things in the world to ship probably; if I wasn't up 
here in Canada I'd get a $129 one from a local harbor freight store, just so 
I could return it if it was not put together properly.

-Sebastien Bailard
RepRap.org - self-replicating 3D printer project.