Homebrew PCBs

From: "Myc Holmes" <mycroft2152y@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 5:19 PM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Trouble producting transfers


> Sometimes the paper towels will have procesing oils on them.
> Try a final rinse with ispropanol (rubbing) alcohol or acetone and let air
> dry.
>
> DO NOT use nail polish remover as it contains cosmetic oils.
>
> Also, after the paper has ben removed, you might try rerunning the pcb
> through the laminator with the release backing from a laser label, or 
> "flash
> fuse" the toner it with a hair dryer.
>
> Mycroft2152
>
>

> 
> Chuck
> WB2EDV
>

From: "Myc Holmes" <mycroft2152y@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 8:17 PM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Trouble producting transfers


> It is possible that you do have a temperature problem.
>
> Laminators without separate temperature control sometimes do not get hot
> enough to fully melt the toner. Also, some of the new toner formulations
> require a lot higher temperature to fuse correctly.
>
> I've never tried, your combination of toner and laminator, so let's hope 
> it
> is just a matter of cleaning the  copper properly.
>
> d\Definitely try the "flash fusing" with a hair dryer about 1/4" above the
> pcb.
>
> Myc
>
>
> On Feb 10, 2008 5:36 PM, Chuck Kelsey <wb2edv@...> wrote:
>
>>   Thanks for the response.
>>
>> My hunch was that it may have been a board cleanliness issue. I'll try 
>> the
>>
>> alcohol and have a can of acetone. I've also been real careful to handle
>> everything along the edges so as to not leave fingerprints on either the
>> surfaces of the board or the transfer paper.
>>
>> I can't believe that the laminator isn't hot enough. The board gets 
>> pretty
>>
>> darn hot after it goes through. I also don't waste time re-running it
>> through.
>>
>> I'm open to other suggestions if anyone has any.
>>
>> Chuck
>> WB2EDV
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Myc Holmes" <mycroft2152y@... <mycroft2152y%40gmail.com>>
>> To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>>
>> Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 5:19 PM
>> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Trouble producting transfers
>>
>> > Sometimes the paper towels will have procesing oils on them.
>> > Try a final rinse with ispropanol (rubbing) alcohol or acetone and let
>> air
>> > dry.
>> >
>> > DO NOT use nail polish remover as it contains cosmetic oils.
>> >
>> > Also, after the paper has ben removed, you might try rerunning the pcb
>> > through the laminator with the release backing from a laser label, or
>> > "flash
>> > fuse" the toner it with a hair dryer.
>> >
>> > Mycroft2152
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and 
> Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

From: "DJ Delorie" <dj@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 8:37 PM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Trouble producting transfers


>
> One trick with the pulsar paper is to re-humidify it.  Put it in a
> sealed box with a container of water for a few minutes.  What I do is
> use an inverted Tupperware cake holder (i.e. deep side down) with 1/2
> inch of water, then the broiler rack from my toaster oven (1" high),
> the paper (glossy side up), then the "bottom" of the cake holder (now
> on top).
>
> Rehumidifying gets me a much better toner layer for the transfer.
>
> The rest of the process seems like what I do.  I let the laminator
> heat up for about 1/2 hr, run the board through 4 times (once in each
> direction) then into the water (re-using the cake holder for this).
> If the toner doesn't stick, you didn't get it hot enough.  If it
> transfers properly, you should be able to lightly wipe off the water
> with a paper towel, without removing the toner.
>
> A hair dryer will NOT get hot enough to make a difference.  They max
> out at around 120F, you need to get higher than that to melt toner.
> Either use an oven, a heat gun, or the laminator itself to preheat the
> board.
>
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and 
> Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

From: "Ben Buxton" <bb@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 4:43 AM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Trouble producting transfers


> FYI, my setup uses an HP laserjet4 (found on the street), a k-mart
> laminator, and IJ-84 matte paper. A home made bubble tank (using an
> aquarium pump + air stone) etches a 5x7mm board in under 10 minutes.
                                                        ^^^^^^^^^^^^^

That's a very small board, how do you suspend it in the tank? 8-)

Leon
--
Leon Heller
Amateur radio call-sign  G1HSM
Yaesu FT-817ND transceiver
Suzuki SV1000S motorcycle
leon355@...
http://www.geocities.com/leon_heller

From: "Ben Buxton" <bb@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 11:43 PM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Trouble producting transfers


>
> I had this problem initially where some toner would still lift off the
> cpper with the paper.
>
> The solution I have found is novel, but works surprisingly well - in
> fact I can now reliably transfer and etch to smaller than SOIC traces.
>
> All I do is let the board + paper soak for a few minutes after the
> initial 10 or so laminator passes. Then, whilst the paper is still wet,
> I run it again through the laminator. It hisses and steams, but after a
> few passes the paper dries and the toner really sticks to the copper.
>
> When the peper and board are wet, the paper holds to the board until I
> manually pull it off. And the toner sticks firm enough that I can run a
> fingernail across without lifting the toner.
>
> Note that if you want to do this, for safety you MUST make sure that the
> electricals in the laminator are far enough from where you pass the wet
> board through - I figure if you're making PCBs, you're also able to
> safely open up your laminator to check this out.
> It may take careful paper placement to prevent the laminator from
> tearing the wet paper+toner away from the board.
>
> Also, the way to verify that the copper is clean is that when you wet
> the board, water actually stays wet across the whole surface. If the water
> retreats from areas of copper and pools up, your board is dirty. When it's
> clean, air-dry it, don't wipe it down. I use Jif for the final clean -
> rubbed across the board, the abrasive action cleans the copper, and the
> built in soaps remove the oils.
>
> FYI, my setup uses an HP laserjet4 (found on the street), a k-mart
> laminator, and IJ-84 matte paper. A home made bubble tank (using an
> aquarium pump + air stone) etches a 5x7mm board in under 10 minutes.
>
> BB
>
> Chuck Kelsey <wb2edv@...> uttered the following thing:
>> I picked up a new GBC 9" personal desktop laminator and tried some boards
>> with no luck.
>>
>> I'm using a 4" x 6" board with 1 oz. copper and it has a thickness of
>> 0.032". I clean it with a brillo pad and rinse thoroughly while wiping 
>> with
>> a wet paper towel, then dry with a paper towel.
>>
>> The laser printer is a Lexmark 4039 10plus set at the darkest setting. 
>> Using
>> the Pulsar toner transfer paper.
>>
>> The first attempt I ran the board (with the paper on the bottom) for 8
>> passes in different directions. The laminator ready light had been on for
>> 15-20 minutes before I began. I also pre-heated the board with a hair 
>> dryer.
>>
>> I dropped the board with the paper into a container of water and let it 
>> rest
>> until the paper floated off on its own. Right away I could see pieces of
>> black toner floating in the water as I lifted the paper out.
>>
>> My second attempt was done the same way, except I ran the board through 
>> 16
>> times. Same problem - toner pieces floating around in the water.
>>
>> This is very discouraging and I'm at a loss. Anyone have any suggestions?
>>
>> Chuck
>> WB2EDV
>>
>
> -- 
> Ben Buxton - Random Network Person
>
>
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and 
> Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ben Buxton" <bb@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 11:43 PM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Trouble producting transfers


>
> I had this problem initially where some toner would still lift off the
> cpper with the paper.
>
> The solution I have found is novel, but works surprisingly well - in
> fact I can now reliably transfer and etch to smaller than SOIC traces.
>
> All I do is let the board + paper soak for a few minutes after the
> initial 10 or so laminator passes. Then, whilst the paper is still wet,
> I run it again through the laminator. It hisses and steams, but after a
> few passes the paper dries and the toner really sticks to the copper.
>
> When the peper and board are wet, the paper holds to the board until I
> manually pull it off. And the toner sticks firm enough that I can run a
> fingernail across without lifting the toner.
>
> Note that if you want to do this, for safety you MUST make sure that the
> electricals in the laminator are far enough from where you pass the wet
> board through - I figure if you're making PCBs, you're also able to
> safely open up your laminator to check this out.
> It may take careful paper placement to prevent the laminator from
> tearing the wet paper+toner away from the board.
>
> Also, the way to verify that the copper is clean is that when you wet
> the board, water actually stays wet across the whole surface. If the water
> retreats from areas of copper and pools up, your board is dirty. When it's
> clean, air-dry it, don't wipe it down. I use Jif for the final clean -
> rubbed across the board, the abrasive action cleans the copper, and the
> built in soaps remove the oils.
>
> FYI, my setup uses an HP laserjet4 (found on the street), a k-mart
> laminator, and IJ-84 matte paper. A home made bubble tank (using an
> aquarium pump + air stone) etches a 5x7mm board in under 10 minutes.
>
> BB
>
> Chuck Kelsey <wb2edv@...> uttered the following thing:
>> I picked up a new GBC 9" personal desktop laminator and tried some boards
>> with no luck.
>>
>> I'm using a 4" x 6" board with 1 oz. copper and it has a thickness of
>> 0.032". I clean it with a brillo pad and rinse thoroughly while wiping 
>> with
>> a wet paper towel, then dry with a paper towel.
>>
>> The laser printer is a Lexmark 4039 10plus set at the darkest setting. 
>> Using
>> the Pulsar toner transfer paper.
>>
>> The first attempt I ran the board (with the paper on the bottom) for 8
>> passes in different directions. The laminator ready light had been on for
>> 15-20 minutes before I began. I also pre-heated the board with a hair 
>> dryer.
>>
>> I dropped the board with the paper into a container of water and let it 
>> rest
>> until the paper floated off on its own. Right away I could see pieces of
>> black toner floating in the water as I lifted the paper out.
>>
>> My second attempt was done the same way, except I ran the board through 
>> 16
>> times. Same problem - toner pieces floating around in the water.
>>
>> This is very discouraging and I'm at a loss. Anyone have any suggestions?
>>
>> Chuck
>> WB2EDV
>>
>
> -- 
> Ben Buxton - Random Network Person
>
>
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and 
> Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
> 



Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs 
Yahoo! Groups Links

From: "Alexandre Guimar\ufffdes" <listas@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 6:18 PM
Subject: RES: [Homebrew_PCBs] Trouble producting transfers


> Hi,
>
>
> I am using Pulsar paper, green film, laminator and boards... Results
> are perfect with 6mils traces and 6mils spacing. It is fast and easy, I 
> just
> followed their instructions... Nothing fancy or hard !
>
> Best Regards,
> Alexandre Guimaraes
>
>
>
> -----Mensagem original-----
> De: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com] 
> Em
> nome de Chuck Kelsey
> Enviada em: segunda-feira, 11 de fevereiro de 2008 20:51
> Para: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Assunto: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Trouble producting transfers
>
> Thanks guys for all the tips.
>
> Is anyone doing toner transfers and consistently getting perfect results?
> Maybe my expectations are too high and I'll have to live with some "hand
> drawn" missing traces.
>
> My last attempt was a 4x6" board that actually had 6 circuit boards on it
> that I'll cut apart. Out of the 6, there was only
> 1 with no flaws and 2 with a minor flaw.
>
> Chuck
> WB2EDV
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ben Buxton" <bb@...>
> To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 11:43 PM
> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Trouble producting transfers
>
>
>>
>> I had this problem initially where some toner would still lift off the
>> cpper with the paper.
>>
>> The solution I have found is novel, but works surprisingly well - in
>> fact I can now reliably transfer and etch to smaller than SOIC traces.
>>
>> All I do is let the board + paper soak for a few minutes after the
>> initial 10 or so laminator passes. Then, whilst the paper is still wet,
>> I run it again through the laminator. It hisses and steams, but after a
>> few passes the paper dries and the toner really sticks to the copper.
>>
>> When the peper and board are wet, the paper holds to the board until I
>> manually pull it off. And the toner sticks firm enough that I can run a
>> fingernail across without lifting the toner.
>>
>> Note that if you want to do this, for safety you MUST make sure that the
>> electricals in the laminator are far enough from where you pass the wet
>> board through - I figure if you're making PCBs, you're also able to
>> safely open up your laminator to check this out.
>> It may take careful paper placement to prevent the laminator from
>> tearing the wet paper+toner away from the board.
>>
>> Also, the way to verify that the copper is clean is that when you wet
>> the board, water actually stays wet across the whole surface. If the 
>> water
>> retreats from areas of copper and pools up, your board is dirty. When 
>> it's
>> clean, air-dry it, don't wipe it down. I use Jif for the final clean -
>> rubbed across the board, the abrasive action cleans the copper, and the
>> built in soaps remove the oils.
>>
>> FYI, my setup uses an HP laserjet4 (found on the street), a k-mart
>> laminator, and IJ-84 matte paper. A home made bubble tank (using an
>> aquarium pump + air stone) etches a 5x7mm board in under 10 minutes.
>>
>> BB
>>
>> Chuck Kelsey <wb2edv@...> uttered the following thing:
>>> I picked up a new GBC 9" personal desktop laminator and tried some 
>>> boards
>>> with no luck.
>>>
>>> I'm using a 4" x 6" board with 1 oz. copper and it has a thickness of
>>> 0.032". I clean it with a brillo pad and rinse thoroughly while wiping
>>> with
>>> a wet paper towel, then dry with a paper towel.
>>>
>>> The laser printer is a Lexmark 4039 10plus set at the darkest setting.
>>> Using
>>> the Pulsar toner transfer paper.
>>>
>>> The first attempt I ran the board (with the paper on the bottom) for 8
>>> passes in different directions. The laminator ready light had been on 
>>> for
>>> 15-20 minutes before I began. I also pre-heated the board with a hair
>>> dryer.
>>>
>>> I dropped the board with the paper into a container of water and let it
>>> rest
>>> until the paper floated off on its own. Right away I could see pieces of
>>> black toner floating in the water as I lifted the paper out.
>>>
>>> My second attempt was done the same way, except I ran the board through
>>> 16
>>> times. Same problem - toner pieces floating around in the water.
>>>
>>> This is very discouraging and I'm at a loss. Anyone have any 
>>> suggestions?
>>>
>>> Chuck
>>> WB2EDV
>>>
>>
>> -- 
>> Ben Buxton - Random Network Person
>>
>>
>>
>> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
>> Photos:
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and 
> Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and 
> Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

From: "Chuck Kelsey" <wb2edv@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 6:23 PM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Trouble producting transfers


> Are you using a laminator or iron?
>
> Chuck
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Alexandre Guimar\ufffdes" <listas@...>
> To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 6:18 PM
> Subject: RES: [Homebrew_PCBs] Trouble producting transfers
>
>
>> Hi,
>>
>>
>> I am using Pulsar paper, green film, laminator and boards... Results
>> are perfect with 6mils traces and 6mils spacing. It is fast and easy, I
>> just
>> followed their instructions... Nothing fancy or hard !
>>
>> Best Regards,
>> Alexandre Guimaraes
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Mensagem original-----
>> De: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com]
>> Em
>> nome de Chuck Kelsey
>> Enviada em: segunda-feira, 11 de fevereiro de 2008 20:51
>> Para: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>> Assunto: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Trouble producting transfers
>>
>> Thanks guys for all the tips.
>>
>> Is anyone doing toner transfers and consistently getting perfect results?
>> Maybe my expectations are too high and I'll have to live with some "hand
>> drawn" missing traces.
>>
>> My last attempt was a 4x6" board that actually had 6 circuit boards on it
>> that I'll cut apart. Out of the 6, there was only
>> 1 with no flaws and 2 with a minor flaw.
>>
>> Chuck
>> WB2EDV
>>
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Ben Buxton" <bb@...>
>> To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
>> Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 11:43 PM
>> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Trouble producting transfers
>>
>>
>>>
>>> I had this problem initially where some toner would still lift off the
>>> cpper with the paper.
>>>
>>> The solution I have found is novel, but works surprisingly well - in
>>> fact I can now reliably transfer and etch to smaller than SOIC traces.
>>>
>>> All I do is let the board + paper soak for a few minutes after the
>>> initial 10 or so laminator passes. Then, whilst the paper is still wet,
>>> I run it again through the laminator. It hisses and steams, but after a
>>> few passes the paper dries and the toner really sticks to the copper.
>>>
>>> When the peper and board are wet, the paper holds to the board until I
>>> manually pull it off. And the toner sticks firm enough that I can run a
>>> fingernail across without lifting the toner.
>>>
>>> Note that if you want to do this, for safety you MUST make sure that the
>>> electricals in the laminator are far enough from where you pass the wet
>>> board through - I figure if you're making PCBs, you're also able to
>>> safely open up your laminator to check this out.
>>> It may take careful paper placement to prevent the laminator from
>>> tearing the wet paper+toner away from the board.
>>>
>>> Also, the way to verify that the copper is clean is that when you wet
>>> the board, water actually stays wet across the whole surface. If the
>>> water
>>> retreats from areas of copper and pools up, your board is dirty. When
>>> it's
>>> clean, air-dry it, don't wipe it down. I use Jif for the final clean -
>>> rubbed across the board, the abrasive action cleans the copper, and the
>>> built in soaps remove the oils.
>>>
>>> FYI, my setup uses an HP laserjet4 (found on the street), a k-mart
>>> laminator, and IJ-84 matte paper. A home made bubble tank (using an
>>> aquarium pump + air stone) etches a 5x7mm board in under 10 minutes.
>>>
>>> BB
>>>
>>> Chuck Kelsey <wb2edv@...> uttered the following thing:
>>>> I picked up a new GBC 9" personal desktop laminator and tried some
>>>> boards
>>>> with no luck.
>>>>
>>>> I'm using a 4" x 6" board with 1 oz. copper and it has a thickness of
>>>> 0.032". I clean it with a brillo pad and rinse thoroughly while wiping
>>>> with
>>>> a wet paper towel, then dry with a paper towel.
>>>>
>>>> The laser printer is a Lexmark 4039 10plus set at the darkest setting.
>>>> Using
>>>> the Pulsar toner transfer paper.
>>>>
>>>> The first attempt I ran the board (with the paper on the bottom) for 8
>>>> passes in different directions. The laminator ready light had been on
>>>> for
>>>> 15-20 minutes before I began. I also pre-heated the board with a hair
>>>> dryer.
>>>>
>>>> I dropped the board with the paper into a container of water and let it
>>>> rest
>>>> until the paper floated off on its own. Right away I could see pieces 
>>>> of
>>>> black toner floating in the water as I lifted the paper out.
>>>>
>>>> My second attempt was done the same way, except I ran the board through
>>>> 16
>>>> times. Same problem - toner pieces floating around in the water.
>>>>
>>>> This is very discouraging and I'm at a loss. Anyone have any
>>>> suggestions?
>>>>
>>>> Chuck
>>>> WB2EDV
>>>>
>>>
>>> -- 
>>> Ben Buxton - Random Network Person
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
>>> Photos:
>>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
>> Photos:
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
>> Photos:
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and 
> Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

On Feb 11, 2008 11:51 PM, Chuck Kelsey <wb2edv@...> wrote:
> Thanks guys for all the tips.
>
> Is anyone doing toner transfers and consistently getting perfect results?
> Maybe my expectations are too high and I'll have to live with some "hand
> drawn" missing traces.
>
> My last attempt was a 4x6" board that actually had 6 circuit boards on it
> that I'll cut apart. Out of the 6, there was only
> 1 with no flaws and 2 with a minor flaw.
>
> Chuck
> WB2EDV
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ben Buxton" <bb@...>
> To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 11:43 PM
> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Trouble producting transfers
>
>
> >
>
> > I had this problem initially where some toner would still lift off the
> > cpper with the paper.
> >
> > The solution I have found is novel, but works surprisingly well - in
> > fact I can now reliably transfer and etch to smaller than SOIC traces.
> >
> > All I do is let the board + paper soak for a few minutes after the
> > initial 10 or so laminator passes. Then, whilst the paper is still wet,
> > I run it again through the laminator. It hisses and steams, but after a
> > few passes the paper dries and the toner really sticks to the copper.
> >
> > When the peper and board are wet, the paper holds to the board until I
> > manually pull it off. And the toner sticks firm enough that I can run a
> > fingernail across without lifting the toner.
> >
> > Note that if you want to do this, for safety you MUST make sure that the
> > electricals in the laminator are far enough from where you pass the wet
> > board through - I figure if you're making PCBs, you're also able to
> > safely open up your laminator to check this out.
> > It may take careful paper placement to prevent the laminator from
> > tearing the wet paper+toner away from the board.
> >
> > Also, the way to verify that the copper is clean is that when you wet
> > the board, water actually stays wet across the whole surface. If the water
> > retreats from areas of copper and pools up, your board is dirty. When it's
> > clean, air-dry it, don't wipe it down. I use Jif for the final clean -
> > rubbed across the board, the abrasive action cleans the copper, and the
> > built in soaps remove the oils.
> >
> > FYI, my setup uses an HP laserjet4 (found on the street), a k-mart
> > laminator, and IJ-84 matte paper. A home made bubble tank (using an
> > aquarium pump + air stone) etches a 5x7mm board in under 10 minutes.
> >
> > BB
> >
> > Chuck Kelsey <wb2edv@...> uttered the following thing:
> >> I picked up a new GBC 9" personal desktop laminator and tried some boards
> >> with no luck.
> >>
> >> I'm using a 4" x 6" board with 1 oz. copper and it has a thickness of
> >> 0.032". I clean it with a brillo pad and rinse thoroughly while wiping
> >> with
> >> a wet paper towel, then dry with a paper towel.
> >>
> >> The laser printer is a Lexmark 4039 10plus set at the darkest setting.
> >> Using
> >> the Pulsar toner transfer paper.
> >>
> >> The first attempt I ran the board (with the paper on the bottom) for 8
> >> passes in different directions. The laminator ready light had been on for
> >> 15-20 minutes before I began. I also pre-heated the board with a hair
> >> dryer.
> >>
> >> I dropped the board with the paper into a container of water and let it
> >> rest
> >> until the paper floated off on its own. Right away I could see pieces of
> >> black toner floating in the water as I lifted the paper out.
> >>
> >> My second attempt was done the same way, except I ran the board through
> >> 16
> >> times. Same problem - toner pieces floating around in the water.
> >>
> >> This is very discouraging and I'm at a loss. Anyone have any suggestions?
> >>
> >> Chuck
> >> WB2EDV
> >>
> >
> > --
> > Ben Buxton - Random Network Person
> >
> >
> >
> > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and
> > Photos:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>