Toner not sticking to PCB well
2011-02-17 by Randy S.
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Thread
2011-02-17 by Randy S.
OK .. went from the problem with the traces running together to the toner not sticking well to the copper .. Can it be that I'm not heating long enough ? Or can it also be that specific toner ? Its from a newer model HP copier .. Randy
2011-02-17 by Randy S.
Could it also be not enough toner? I tried to make the copies less dark .. ________________________________
From: Randy S. <rj3819@...>
To: Homebrew_PCB <homebrew_pcbs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 1:09:39 AM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Toner not sticking to PCB well
OK .. went from the problem with the traces running together
to the toner not sticking well to the copper ..
Can it be that I'm not heating long enough ?
Or can it also be that specific toner ?
Its from a newer model HP copier ..
Randy
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]2011-02-17 by Donald H Locker
More likely not hot enough. Too hot, they will melt together; too cool, they won't melt to the copper. The copper and the toner both have to be hot enough for successful adhesion. Donald. -- *Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue () no proprietary attachments; no html mail /\ ascii ribbon campaign - <www.asciiribbon.org> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Randy S." <rj3819@...> > To: "Homebrew PCBs" <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> > Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2011 1:13:58 AM > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Toner not sticking to PCB well > > Could it also be not enough toner? > I tried to make the copies less dark .. > > > > > ________________________________ > From: Randy S. <rj3819@...> > To: Homebrew_PCB <homebrew_pcbs@yahoogroups.com> > Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 1:09:39 AM > Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Toner not sticking to PCB well > > > OK .. went from the problem with the traces running together > to the toner not sticking well to the copper .. > > Can it be that I'm not heating long enough ? > > Or can it also be that specific toner ? > > Its from a newer model HP copier .. > > Randy > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > ------------------------------------ > > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and > Photos: > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links > > >
2011-02-17 by kabowers@NorthState.net
On Wed, 16 Feb 2011 22:09:39 -0800 (PST), you wrote: >OK .. went from the problem with the traces running together >to the toner not sticking well to the copper .. > >Can it be that I'm not heating long enough ? > >Or can it also be that specific toner ? > >Its from a newer model HP copier .. > >Randy > > The variables have variables. Unless HP has changed their toners work great. I run mine (1022) at the highest quality/density setting. There's a "sweet spot" between time, temperature and size of board. I did a 4x6 board a couple of days ago using with the iron set halfway between cotton and linen and ironed for 2.5 minutes with moderate pressure. Pay special attention to the edges. I paced the board in a folded Bounty paper towel and used an old cutting board for support. I use Hammermill OficeOne Business Glossy 32# paper (16302-0) which may be discontinued. If you "overcook" this stuff it's almost impossible to get off without pulling the toner off the copper. "Undercooking" results in failure to adhere; "overcooking" or slippage results in smeared traces. I recently failed to properly support a board in the center and had to strip with acetone and start over due to traces running together; lesson learned. A couple of years ago someone here suggested placing the board between sheets of paper towel; this resulted in a major improvement for me. Keith Bowers WB4LSJ- Thomasville, NC
2011-02-17 by Randy S.
ok on the HP Toners .. I ran it thru the laminator ..and there was no sign of the toner even having thoughts of sticking to the board .. Either toner .. post office or the HP .. i guess its just not getting hot enough .. Are there popular laserjet printers used for PCB's ?? I will keep trying .. and will try the paper towels .. Randy ________________________________
From: "kabowers@..." <kabowers@...>
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 9:15:51 AM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Toner not sticking to PCB well
On Wed, 16 Feb 2011 22:09:39 -0800 (PST), you wrote:
>OK .. went from the problem with the traces running together
>to the toner not sticking well to the copper ..
>
>Can it be that I'm not heating long enough ?
>
>Or can it also be that specific toner ?
>
>Its from a newer model HP copier ..
>
>Randy
>
>
The variables have variables. Unless HP has changed their toners work great.
I run mine (1022) at the highest quality/density setting.
There's a "sweet spot" between time, temperature and size of board.
I did a 4x6 board a couple of days ago using with the iron set halfway
between cotton and linen and ironed for 2.5 minutes with moderate pressure.
Pay special attention to the edges. I paced the board in a folded Bounty
paper towel and used an old cutting board for support.
I use Hammermill OficeOne Business Glossy 32# paper (16302-0) which
may be discontinued. If you "overcook" this stuff it's almost impossible to
get off without pulling the toner off the copper. "Undercooking" results in
failure to adhere; "overcooking" or slippage results in smeared traces.
I recently failed to properly support a board in the center and had to strip
with acetone and start over due to traces running together; lesson learned.
A couple of years ago someone here suggested placing the board between
sheets of paper towel; this resulted in a major improvement for me.
Keith Bowers WB4LSJ- Thomasville, NC
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]2011-02-17 by Jeff Heiss
I really think is a problem with temperature. My procedure derived from much experimenting is to set the laminator to 275F, preheat the board to around 250F, run the board through the laminator twice, preheat again to 250F and pass through two more times. The reason you have to preheat again is because it will cool by the second pass. Do not depend on the laminator to heat the board. It will not. Do you have a thermocouple probe to take measurements? On 2/17/2011 12:00 PM, Randy S. wrote: > > ok on the HP Toners .. > I ran it thru the laminator ..and there was no sign of the toner even > having thoughts of sticking to the board .. > Either toner .. post office or the HP .. i guess its just not getting > hot enough .. > Are there popular laserjet printers used for PCB's ?? > I will keep trying .. and will try the paper towels .. > > Randy > > ________________________________ > From: "kabowers@... <mailto:kabowers%40NorthState.net>" > <kabowers@... <mailto:kabowers%40NorthState.net>> > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> > Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 9:15:51 AM > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Toner not sticking to PCB well > > On Wed, 16 Feb 2011 22:09:39 -0800 (PST), you wrote: > > >OK .. went from the problem with the traces running together > >to the toner not sticking well to the copper .. > > > >Can it be that I'm not heating long enough ? > > > >Or can it also be that specific toner ? > > > >Its from a newer model HP copier .. > > > >Randy > > > > > The variables have variables. Unless HP has changed their toners work > great. > I run mine (1022) at the highest quality/density setting. > > There's a "sweet spot" between time, temperature and size of board. > I did a 4x6 board a couple of days ago using with the iron set halfway > between cotton and linen and ironed for 2.5 minutes with moderate > pressure. > Pay special attention to the edges. I paced the board in a folded Bounty > paper towel and used an old cutting board for support. > > I use Hammermill OficeOne Business Glossy 32# paper (16302-0) which > may be discontinued. If you "overcook" this stuff it's almost > impossible to > get off without pulling the toner off the copper. "Undercooking" > results in > failure to adhere; "overcooking" or slippage results in smeared traces. > > I recently failed to properly support a board in the center and had to > strip > with acetone and start over due to traces running together; lesson > learned. > > A couple of years ago someone here suggested placing the board between > sheets of paper towel; this resulted in a major improvement for me. > > Keith Bowers WB4LSJ- Thomasville, NC > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2011-02-17 by Randy S.
ok .. thanks and yes .. have a thermocouple probe .. I cant set the laminator temp .. I guess its a cheaper "DUCK" laminator .. But figured it was worth a try .. I will try the preheat ... ________________________________
From: Jeff Heiss <jeff.heiss@...>
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 12:25:40 PM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Toner not sticking to PCB well
I really think is a problem with temperature. My procedure derived from
much experimenting is to set the laminator to 275F, preheat the board to
around 250F, run the board through the laminator twice, preheat again to
250F and pass through two more times. The reason you have to preheat
again is because it will cool by the second pass. Do not depend on the
laminator to heat the board. It will not. Do you have a thermocouple
probe to take measurements?
On 2/17/2011 12:00 PM, Randy S. wrote:
>
> ok on the HP Toners ..
> I ran it thru the laminator ..and there was no sign of the toner even
> having thoughts of sticking to the board ..
> Either toner .. post office or the HP .. i guess its just not getting
> hot enough ..
> Are there popular laserjet printers used for PCB's ??
> I will keep trying .. and will try the paper towels ..
>
> Randy
>
> ________________________________
> From: "kabowers@... <mailto:kabowers%40NorthState.net>"
> <kabowers@... <mailto:kabowers%40NorthState.net>>
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 9:15:51 AM
> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Toner not sticking to PCB well
>
> On Wed, 16 Feb 2011 22:09:39 -0800 (PST), you wrote:
>
> >OK .. went from the problem with the traces running together
> >to the toner not sticking well to the copper ..
> >
> >Can it be that I'm not heating long enough ?
> >
> >Or can it also be that specific toner ?
> >
> >Its from a newer model HP copier ..
> >
> >Randy
> >
> >
> The variables have variables. Unless HP has changed their toners work
> great.
> I run mine (1022) at the highest quality/density setting.
>
> There's a "sweet spot" between time, temperature and size of board.
> I did a 4x6 board a couple of days ago using with the iron set halfway
> between cotton and linen and ironed for 2.5 minutes with moderate
> pressure.
> Pay special attention to the edges. I paced the board in a folded Bounty
> paper towel and used an old cutting board for support.
>
> I use Hammermill OficeOne Business Glossy 32# paper (16302-0) which
> may be discontinued. If you "overcook" this stuff it's almost
> impossible to
> get off without pulling the toner off the copper. "Undercooking"
> results in
> failure to adhere; "overcooking" or slippage results in smeared traces.
>
> I recently failed to properly support a board in the center and had to
> strip
> with acetone and start over due to traces running together; lesson
> learned.
>
> A couple of years ago someone here suggested placing the board between
> sheets of paper towel; this resulted in a major improvement for me.
>
> Keith Bowers WB4LSJ- Thomasville, NC
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]2011-02-17 by Andrew
Randy, The advantage of a laminator is repeatability / consistency -- but only if the laminator gets hot enough. Even with a hot enough laminator, most people need to make multiple passes to get a good transfer. You can get good transfers with an iron, but it becomes a little harder to adjust the variables -- was it too hot, or was I pressing too hard, or both, or ??? With an iron, I do think it helps to have a hard, non-heat-conductive surface underneath, with some paper over top to help prevent over-heating and/or smearing. With either iron or laminator, I've never pre-heated the board; the board (and particularly the copper layer) heats up very quickly. Your mention of the board "sizzling" sounded way too hot to me. As others have said, HP toners generally work very well; you will want to print as densely as possible. The board needs to be very clean and dry; do not use any cleaners/solvents that will leave oily residue behind. I generally scrub the board with dish soap and water using a green scotch-brite pad, and then do a final wipe down with acetone. Do not touch the surface of the board after cleaning it! I have made some decent boards using an iron. I now have a nice laminator with temperature and speed control, and it does increase the ease and consistency and therefore the speed with which I can make boards. I have also had better results with double-sided boards using the laminator. The nice thing is that you can easily and cheaply experiment to find what works to give you good, consistent results. If a board transfers badly, just wipe it off with acetone (or scrub it off), reclean the board, and try again! --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Randy S." <rj3819@...> wrote:
> > ok .. thanks > and yes .. have a thermocouple probe .. > I cant set the laminator temp .. > I guess its a cheaper "DUCK" laminator .. > But figured it was worth a try .. > I will try the preheat ... > > > > > ________________________________ > From: Jeff Heiss <jeff.heiss@...> > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 12:25:40 PM > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Toner not sticking to PCB well > > > I really think is a problem with temperature. My procedure derived from > much experimenting is to set the laminator to 275F, preheat the board to > around 250F, run the board through the laminator twice, preheat again to > 250F and pass through two more times. The reason you have to preheat > again is because it will cool by the second pass. Do not depend on the > laminator to heat the board. It will not. Do you have a thermocouple > probe to take measurements? > > On 2/17/2011 12:00 PM, Randy S. wrote: > > > > ok on the HP Toners .. > > I ran it thru the laminator ..and there was no sign of the toner even > > having thoughts of sticking to the board .. > > Either toner .. post office or the HP .. i guess its just not getting > > hot enough .. > > Are there popular laserjet printers used for PCB's ?? > > I will keep trying .. and will try the paper towels .. > > > > Randy > > > > ________________________________ > > From: "kabowers@... <mailto:kabowers%40NorthState.net>" > > <kabowers@... <mailto:kabowers%40NorthState.net>> > > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> > > Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 9:15:51 AM > > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Toner not sticking to PCB well > > > > On Wed, 16 Feb 2011 22:09:39 -0800 (PST), you wrote: > > > > >OK .. went from the problem with the traces running together > > >to the toner not sticking well to the copper .. > > > > > >Can it be that I'm not heating long enough ? > > > > > >Or can it also be that specific toner ? > > > > > >Its from a newer model HP copier .. > > > > > >Randy > > > > > > > > The variables have variables. Unless HP has changed their toners work > > great. > > I run mine (1022) at the highest quality/density setting. > > > > There's a "sweet spot" between time, temperature and size of board. > > I did a 4x6 board a couple of days ago using with the iron set halfway > > between cotton and linen and ironed for 2.5 minutes with moderate > > pressure. > > Pay special attention to the edges. I paced the board in a folded Bounty > > paper towel and used an old cutting board for support. > > > > I use Hammermill OficeOne Business Glossy 32# paper (16302-0) which > > may be discontinued. If you "overcook" this stuff it's almost > > impossible to > > get off without pulling the toner off the copper. "Undercooking" > > results in > > failure to adhere; "overcooking" or slippage results in smeared traces. > > > > I recently failed to properly support a board in the center and had to > > strip > > with acetone and start over due to traces running together; lesson > > learned. > > > > A couple of years ago someone here suggested placing the board between > > sheets of paper towel; this resulted in a major improvement for me. > > > > Keith Bowers WB4LSJ- Thomasville, NC > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >
2011-02-17 by Randy S.
Which laminator do you use and if its not available .. have any suggestions? ________________________________
From: Andrew <a_wake@...>
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 1:01:23 PM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Toner not sticking to PCB well
Randy,
The advantage of a laminator is repeatability / consistency -- but only if the
laminator gets hot enough. Even with a hot enough laminator, most people need to
make multiple passes to get a good transfer.
You can get good transfers with an iron, but it becomes a little harder to
adjust the variables -- was it too hot, or was I pressing too hard, or both, or
??? With an iron, I do think it helps to have a hard, non-heat-conductive
surface underneath, with some paper over top to help prevent over-heating and/or
smearing.
With either iron or laminator, I've never pre-heated the board; the board (and
particularly the copper layer) heats up very quickly. Your mention of the board
"sizzling" sounded way too hot to me.
As others have said, HP toners generally work very well; you will want to print
as densely as possible. The board needs to be very clean and dry; do not use any
cleaners/solvents that will leave oily residue behind. I generally scrub the
board with dish soap and water using a green scotch-brite pad, and then do a
final wipe down with acetone. Do not touch the surface of the board after
cleaning it!
I have made some decent boards using an iron. I now have a nice laminator with
temperature and speed control, and it does increase the ease and consistency and
therefore the speed with which I can make boards. I have also had better results
with double-sided boards using the laminator.
The nice thing is that you can easily and cheaply experiment to find what works
to give you good, consistent results. If a board transfers badly, just wipe it
off with acetone (or scrub it off), reclean the board, and try again!
--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Randy S." <rj3819@...> wrote:
>
> ok .. thanks
> and yes .. have a thermocouple probe ..
> I cant set the laminator temp ..
> I guess its a cheaper "DUCK" laminator ..
> But figured it was worth a try ..
> I will try the preheat ...
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Jeff Heiss <jeff.heiss@...>
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 12:25:40 PM
> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Toner not sticking to PCB well
>
>
> I really think is a problem with temperature. My procedure derived from
> much experimenting is to set the laminator to 275F, preheat the board to
> around 250F, run the board through the laminator twice, preheat again to
> 250F and pass through two more times. The reason you have to preheat
> again is because it will cool by the second pass. Do not depend on the
> laminator to heat the board. It will not. Do you have a thermocouple
> probe to take measurements?
>
> On 2/17/2011 12:00 PM, Randy S. wrote:
> >
> > ok on the HP Toners ..
> > I ran it thru the laminator ..and there was no sign of the toner even
> > having thoughts of sticking to the board ..
> > Either toner .. post office or the HP .. i guess its just not getting
> > hot enough ..
> > Are there popular laserjet printers used for PCB's ??
> > I will keep trying .. and will try the paper towels ..
> >
> > Randy
> >
> > ________________________________
> > From: "kabowers@... <mailto:kabowers%40NorthState.net>"
> > <kabowers@... <mailto:kabowers%40NorthState.net>>
> > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 9:15:51 AM
> > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Toner not sticking to PCB well
> >
> > On Wed, 16 Feb 2011 22:09:39 -0800 (PST), you wrote:
> >
> > >OK .. went from the problem with the traces running together
> > >to the toner not sticking well to the copper ..
> > >
> > >Can it be that I'm not heating long enough ?
> > >
> > >Or can it also be that specific toner ?
> > >
> > >Its from a newer model HP copier ..
> > >
> > >Randy
> > >
> > >
> > The variables have variables. Unless HP has changed their toners work
> > great.
> > I run mine (1022) at the highest quality/density setting.
> >
> > There's a "sweet spot" between time, temperature and size of board.
> > I did a 4x6 board a couple of days ago using with the iron set halfway
> > between cotton and linen and ironed for 2.5 minutes with moderate
> > pressure.
> > Pay special attention to the edges. I paced the board in a folded Bounty
> > paper towel and used an old cutting board for support.
> >
> > I use Hammermill OficeOne Business Glossy 32# paper (16302-0) which
> > may be discontinued. If you "overcook" this stuff it's almost
> > impossible to
> > get off without pulling the toner off the copper. "Undercooking"
> > results in
> > failure to adhere; "overcooking" or slippage results in smeared traces.
> >
> > I recently failed to properly support a board in the center and had to
> > strip
> > with acetone and start over due to traces running together; lesson
> > learned.
> >
> > A couple of years ago someone here suggested placing the board between
> > sheets of paper towel; this resulted in a major improvement for me.
> >
> > Keith Bowers WB4LSJ- Thomasville, NC
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]2011-02-17 by Jeff Heiss
I used a modified GBC laminator. Check "Another GBC Laminator Mod" in the Photos area for pictures. On 2/17/2011 1:19 PM, Randy S. wrote: > > Which laminator do you use and if its not available .. have any > suggestions? > > ________________________________ > From: Andrew <a_wake@... <mailto:a_wake%40earthlink.net>> > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> > Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 1:01:23 PM > Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Toner not sticking to PCB well > > Randy, > > The advantage of a laminator is repeatability / consistency -- but > only if the > laminator gets hot enough. Even with a hot enough laminator, most > people need to > make multiple passes to get a good transfer. > > You can get good transfers with an iron, but it becomes a little > harder to > adjust the variables -- was it too hot, or was I pressing too hard, or > both, or > ??? With an iron, I do think it helps to have a hard, non-heat-conductive > surface underneath, with some paper over top to help prevent > over-heating and/or > smearing. > > With either iron or laminator, I've never pre-heated the board; the > board (and > particularly the copper layer) heats up very quickly. Your mention of > the board > "sizzling" sounded way too hot to me. > > As others have said, HP toners generally work very well; you will want > to print > as densely as possible. The board needs to be very clean and dry; do > not use any > cleaners/solvents that will leave oily residue behind. I generally > scrub the > board with dish soap and water using a green scotch-brite pad, and > then do a > final wipe down with acetone. Do not touch the surface of the board after > cleaning it! > > I have made some decent boards using an iron. I now have a nice > laminator with > temperature and speed control, and it does increase the ease and > consistency and > therefore the speed with which I can make boards. I have also had > better results > with double-sided boards using the laminator. > > The nice thing is that you can easily and cheaply experiment to find > what works > to give you good, consistent results. If a board transfers badly, just > wipe it > off with acetone (or scrub it off), reclean the board, and try again! > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com > <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>, "Randy S." <rj3819@...> wrote: > > > > ok .. thanks > > and yes .. have a thermocouple probe .. > > I cant set the laminator temp .. > > I guess its a cheaper "DUCK" laminator .. > > But figured it was worth a try .. > > I will try the preheat ... > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ > > From: Jeff Heiss <jeff.heiss@...> > > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com > <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> > > Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 12:25:40 PM > > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Toner not sticking to PCB well > > > > > > I really think is a problem with temperature. My procedure derived from > > much experimenting is to set the laminator to 275F, preheat the > board to > > around 250F, run the board through the laminator twice, preheat > again to > > 250F and pass through two more times. The reason you have to preheat > > again is because it will cool by the second pass. Do not depend on the > > laminator to heat the board. It will not. Do you have a thermocouple > > probe to take measurements? > > > > On 2/17/2011 12:00 PM, Randy S. wrote: > > > > > > ok on the HP Toners .. > > > I ran it thru the laminator ..and there was no sign of the toner even > > > having thoughts of sticking to the board .. > > > Either toner .. post office or the HP .. i guess its just not getting > > > hot enough .. > > > Are there popular laserjet printers used for PCB's ?? > > > I will keep trying .. and will try the paper towels .. > > > > > > Randy > > > > > > ________________________________ > > > From: "kabowers@... <mailto:kabowers%40NorthState.net>" > > > <kabowers@... <mailto:kabowers%40NorthState.net>> > > > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com > <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> > <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> > > > Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 9:15:51 AM > > > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Toner not sticking to PCB well > > > > > > On Wed, 16 Feb 2011 22:09:39 -0800 (PST), you wrote: > > > > > > >OK .. went from the problem with the traces running together > > > >to the toner not sticking well to the copper .. > > > > > > > >Can it be that I'm not heating long enough ? > > > > > > > >Or can it also be that specific toner ? > > > > > > > >Its from a newer model HP copier .. > > > > > > > >Randy > > > > > > > > > > > The variables have variables. Unless HP has changed their toners work > > > great. > > > I run mine (1022) at the highest quality/density setting. > > > > > > There's a "sweet spot" between time, temperature and size of board. > > > I did a 4x6 board a couple of days ago using with the iron set halfway > > > between cotton and linen and ironed for 2.5 minutes with moderate > > > pressure. > > > Pay special attention to the edges. I paced the board in a folded > Bounty > > > paper towel and used an old cutting board for support. > > > > > > I use Hammermill OficeOne Business Glossy 32# paper (16302-0) which > > > may be discontinued. If you "overcook" this stuff it's almost > > > impossible to > > > get off without pulling the toner off the copper. "Undercooking" > > > results in > > > failure to adhere; "overcooking" or slippage results in smeared > traces. > > > > > > I recently failed to properly support a board in the center and > had to > > > strip > > > with acetone and start over due to traces running together; lesson > > > learned. > > > > > > A couple of years ago someone here suggested placing the board between > > > sheets of paper towel; this resulted in a major improvement for me. > > > > > > Keith Bowers WB4LSJ- Thomasville, NC > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2011-02-17 by Randy S.
Can not soaking the board for long enough prior to rubbing it off with your thumb cause the toner to come off the board? ________________________________
From: Jeff Heiss <jeff.heiss@...>
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 1:48:14 PM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Toner not sticking to PCB well
I used a modified GBC laminator. Check "Another GBC Laminator Mod" in
the Photos area for pictures.
On 2/17/2011 1:19 PM, Randy S. wrote:
>
> Which laminator do you use and if its not available .. have any
> suggestions?
>
> ________________________________
> From: Andrew <a_wake@... <mailto:a_wake%40earthlink.net>>
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 1:01:23 PM
> Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Toner not sticking to PCB well
>
> Randy,
>
> The advantage of a laminator is repeatability / consistency -- but
> only if the
> laminator gets hot enough. Even with a hot enough laminator, most
> people need to
> make multiple passes to get a good transfer.
>
> You can get good transfers with an iron, but it becomes a little
> harder to
> adjust the variables -- was it too hot, or was I pressing too hard, or
> both, or
> ??? With an iron, I do think it helps to have a hard, non-heat-conductive
> surface underneath, with some paper over top to help prevent
> over-heating and/or
> smearing.
>
> With either iron or laminator, I've never pre-heated the board; the
> board (and
> particularly the copper layer) heats up very quickly. Your mention of
> the board
> "sizzling" sounded way too hot to me.
>
> As others have said, HP toners generally work very well; you will want
> to print
> as densely as possible. The board needs to be very clean and dry; do
> not use any
> cleaners/solvents that will leave oily residue behind. I generally
> scrub the
> board with dish soap and water using a green scotch-brite pad, and
> then do a
> final wipe down with acetone. Do not touch the surface of the board after
> cleaning it!
>
> I have made some decent boards using an iron. I now have a nice
> laminator with
> temperature and speed control, and it does increase the ease and
> consistency and
> therefore the speed with which I can make boards. I have also had
> better results
> with double-sided boards using the laminator.
>
> The nice thing is that you can easily and cheaply experiment to find
> what works
> to give you good, consistent results. If a board transfers badly, just
> wipe it
> off with acetone (or scrub it off), reclean the board, and try again!
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>, "Randy S." <rj3819@...> wrote:
> >
> > ok .. thanks
> > and yes .. have a thermocouple probe ..
> > I cant set the laminator temp ..
> > I guess its a cheaper "DUCK" laminator ..
> > But figured it was worth a try ..
> > I will try the preheat ...
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________
> > From: Jeff Heiss <jeff.heiss@...>
> > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 12:25:40 PM
> > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Toner not sticking to PCB well
> >
> >
> > I really think is a problem with temperature. My procedure derived from
> > much experimenting is to set the laminator to 275F, preheat the
> board to
> > around 250F, run the board through the laminator twice, preheat
> again to
> > 250F and pass through two more times. The reason you have to preheat
> > again is because it will cool by the second pass. Do not depend on the
> > laminator to heat the board. It will not. Do you have a thermocouple
> > probe to take measurements?
> >
> > On 2/17/2011 12:00 PM, Randy S. wrote:
> > >
> > > ok on the HP Toners ..
> > > I ran it thru the laminator ..and there was no sign of the toner even
> > > having thoughts of sticking to the board ..
> > > Either toner .. post office or the HP .. i guess its just not getting
> > > hot enough ..
> > > Are there popular laserjet printers used for PCB's ??
> > > I will keep trying .. and will try the paper towels ..
> > >
> > > Randy
> > >
> > > ________________________________
> > > From: "kabowers@... <mailto:kabowers%40NorthState.net>"
> > > <kabowers@... <mailto:kabowers%40NorthState.net>>
> > > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 9:15:51 AM
> > > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Toner not sticking to PCB well
> > >
> > > On Wed, 16 Feb 2011 22:09:39 -0800 (PST), you wrote:
> > >
> > > >OK .. went from the problem with the traces running together
> > > >to the toner not sticking well to the copper ..
> > > >
> > > >Can it be that I'm not heating long enough ?
> > > >
> > > >Or can it also be that specific toner ?
> > > >
> > > >Its from a newer model HP copier ..
> > > >
> > > >Randy
> > > >
> > > >
> > > The variables have variables. Unless HP has changed their toners work
> > > great.
> > > I run mine (1022) at the highest quality/density setting.
> > >
> > > There's a "sweet spot" between time, temperature and size of board.
> > > I did a 4x6 board a couple of days ago using with the iron set halfway
> > > between cotton and linen and ironed for 2.5 minutes with moderate
> > > pressure.
> > > Pay special attention to the edges. I paced the board in a folded
> Bounty
> > > paper towel and used an old cutting board for support.
> > >
> > > I use Hammermill OficeOne Business Glossy 32# paper (16302-0) which
> > > may be discontinued. If you "overcook" this stuff it's almost
> > > impossible to
> > > get off without pulling the toner off the copper. "Undercooking"
> > > results in
> > > failure to adhere; "overcooking" or slippage results in smeared
> traces.
> > >
> > > I recently failed to properly support a board in the center and
> had to
> > > strip
> > > with acetone and start over due to traces running together; lesson
> > > learned.
> > >
> > > A couple of years ago someone here suggested placing the board between
> > > sheets of paper towel; this resulted in a major improvement for me.
> > >
> > > Keith Bowers WB4LSJ- Thomasville, NC
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> > >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]2011-02-17 by Paul Mateer
YES!!! On Thu, Feb 17, 2011 at 12:56 PM, Randy S. <rj3819@...> wrote: > > > Can not soaking the board for long enough prior to rubbing it off with your > > thumb > cause the toner to come off the board? > > ________________________________ > From: Jeff Heiss <jeff.heiss@...> > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 1:48:14 PM > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Toner not sticking to PCB well > > I used a modified GBC laminator. Check "Another GBC Laminator Mod" in > the Photos area for pictures. > > On 2/17/2011 1:19 PM, Randy S. wrote: > > > > Which laminator do you use and if its not available .. have any > > suggestions? > > > > ________________________________ > > From: Andrew <a_wake@earthlink.net <mailto:a_wake%40earthlink.net>> > > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <mailto: > Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> > > Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 1:01:23 PM > > Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Toner not sticking to PCB well > > > > Randy, > > > > The advantage of a laminator is repeatability / consistency -- but > > only if the > > laminator gets hot enough. Even with a hot enough laminator, most > > people need to > > make multiple passes to get a good transfer. > > > > You can get good transfers with an iron, but it becomes a little > > harder to > > adjust the variables -- was it too hot, or was I pressing too hard, or > > both, or > > ??? With an iron, I do think it helps to have a hard, non-heat-conductive > > surface underneath, with some paper over top to help prevent > > over-heating and/or > > smearing. > > > > With either iron or laminator, I've never pre-heated the board; the > > board (and > > particularly the copper layer) heats up very quickly. Your mention of > > the board > > "sizzling" sounded way too hot to me. > > > > As others have said, HP toners generally work very well; you will want > > to print > > as densely as possible. The board needs to be very clean and dry; do > > not use any > > cleaners/solvents that will leave oily residue behind. I generally > > scrub the > > board with dish soap and water using a green scotch-brite pad, and > > then do a > > final wipe down with acetone. Do not touch the surface of the board after > > cleaning it! > > > > I have made some decent boards using an iron. I now have a nice > > laminator with > > temperature and speed control, and it does increase the ease and > > consistency and > > therefore the speed with which I can make boards. I have also had > > better results > > with double-sided boards using the laminator. > > > > The nice thing is that you can easily and cheaply experiment to find > > what works > > to give you good, consistent results. If a board transfers badly, just > > wipe it > > off with acetone (or scrub it off), reclean the board, and try again! > > > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com > > <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>, "Randy S." <rj3819@...> wrote: > > > > > > ok .. thanks > > > and yes .. have a thermocouple probe .. > > > I cant set the laminator temp .. > > > I guess its a cheaper "DUCK" laminator .. > > > But figured it was worth a try .. > > > I will try the preheat ... > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ > > > From: Jeff Heiss <jeff.heiss@...> > > > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com > > <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> > > > Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 12:25:40 PM > > > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Toner not sticking to PCB well > > > > > > > > > I really think is a problem with temperature. My procedure derived from > > > much experimenting is to set the laminator to 275F, preheat the > > board to > > > around 250F, run the board through the laminator twice, preheat > > again to > > > 250F and pass through two more times. The reason you have to preheat > > > again is because it will cool by the second pass. Do not depend on the > > > laminator to heat the board. It will not. Do you have a thermocouple > > > probe to take measurements? > > > > > > On 2/17/2011 12:00 PM, Randy S. wrote: > > > > > > > > ok on the HP Toners .. > > > > I ran it thru the laminator ..and there was no sign of the toner even > > > > having thoughts of sticking to the board .. > > > > Either toner .. post office or the HP .. i guess its just not getting > > > > hot enough .. > > > > Are there popular laserjet printers used for PCB's ?? > > > > I will keep trying .. and will try the paper towels .. > > > > > > > > Randy > > > > > > > > ________________________________ > > > > From: "kabowers@... <mailto:kabowers%40NorthState.net>" > > > > <kabowers@... <mailto:kabowers%40NorthState.net>> > > > > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com > > <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> > > <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> > > > > Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 9:15:51 AM > > > > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Toner not sticking to PCB well > > > > > > > > On Wed, 16 Feb 2011 22:09:39 -0800 (PST), you wrote: > > > > > > > > >OK .. went from the problem with the traces running together > > > > >to the toner not sticking well to the copper .. > > > > > > > > > >Can it be that I'm not heating long enough ? > > > > > > > > > >Or can it also be that specific toner ? > > > > > > > > > >Its from a newer model HP copier .. > > > > > > > > > >Randy > > > > > > > > > > > > > > The variables have variables. Unless HP has changed their toners work > > > > great. > > > > I run mine (1022) at the highest quality/density setting. > > > > > > > > There's a "sweet spot" between time, temperature and size of board. > > > > I did a 4x6 board a couple of days ago using with the iron set > halfway > > > > between cotton and linen and ironed for 2.5 minutes with moderate > > > > pressure. > > > > Pay special attention to the edges. I paced the board in a folded > > Bounty > > > > paper towel and used an old cutting board for support. > > > > > > > > I use Hammermill OficeOne Business Glossy 32# paper (16302-0) which > > > > may be discontinued. If you "overcook" this stuff it's almost > > > > impossible to > > > > get off without pulling the toner off the copper. "Undercooking" > > > > results in > > > > failure to adhere; "overcooking" or slippage results in smeared > > traces. > > > > > > > > I recently failed to properly support a board in the center and > > had to > > > > strip > > > > with acetone and start over due to traces running together; lesson > > > > learned. > > > > > > > > A couple of years ago someone here suggested placing the board > between > > > > sheets of paper towel; this resulted in a major improvement for me. > > > > > > > > Keith Bowers WB4LSJ- Thomasville, NC > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > -- Paul Mateer, AA9GG Elan Engineering Corp. www.elanengr.com NAQCC 3123, SKCC 4628, FPQRP 2003 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2011-02-17 by Randy S.
Hey .. Paul I'll take that as a yes .. LMAO .. and thanks
----- Original Message ---- From: Paul Mateer <paul.aa9gg@...> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 2:00:50 PM Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Toner not sticking to PCB well YES!!! On Thu, Feb 17, 2011 at 12:56 PM, Randy S. <rj3819@...> wrote: > > > Can not soaking the board for long enough prior to rubbing it off with your > > thumb > cause the toner to come off the board? > > ________________________________ > From: Jeff Heiss <jeff.heiss@...> > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 1:48:14 PM > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Toner not sticking to PCB well > > I used a modified GBC laminator. Check "Another GBC Laminator Mod" in > the Photos area for pictures. > > On 2/17/2011 1:19 PM, Randy S. wrote: > > > > Which laminator do you use and if its not available .. have any > > suggestions? > > > > ________________________________ > > From: Andrew <a_wake@... <mailto:a_wake%40earthlink.net>> > > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <mailto: > Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> > > Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 1:01:23 PM > > Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Toner not sticking to PCB well > > > > Randy, > > > > The advantage of a laminator is repeatability / consistency -- but > > only if the > > laminator gets hot enough. Even with a hot enough laminator, most > > people need to > > make multiple passes to get a good transfer. > > > > You can get good transfers with an iron, but it becomes a little > > harder to > > adjust the variables -- was it too hot, or was I pressing too hard, or > > both, or > > ??? With an iron, I do think it helps to have a hard, non-heat-conductive > > surface underneath, with some paper over top to help prevent > > over-heating and/or > > smearing. > > > > With either iron or laminator, I've never pre-heated the board; the > > board (and > > particularly the copper layer) heats up very quickly. Your mention of > > the board > > "sizzling" sounded way too hot to me. > > > > As others have said, HP toners generally work very well; you will want > > to print > > as densely as possible. The board needs to be very clean and dry; do > > not use any > > cleaners/solvents that will leave oily residue behind. I generally > > scrub the > > board with dish soap and water using a green scotch-brite pad, and > > then do a > > final wipe down with acetone. Do not touch the surface of the board after > > cleaning it! > > > > I have made some decent boards using an iron. I now have a nice > > laminator with > > temperature and speed control, and it does increase the ease and > > consistency and > > therefore the speed with which I can make boards. I have also had > > better results > > with double-sided boards using the laminator. > > > > The nice thing is that you can easily and cheaply experiment to find > > what works > > to give you good, consistent results. If a board transfers badly, just > > wipe it > > off with acetone (or scrub it off), reclean the board, and try again! > > > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com > > <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>, "Randy S." <rj3819@...> wrote: > > > > > > ok .. thanks > > > and yes .. have a thermocouple probe .. > > > I cant set the laminator temp .. > > > I guess its a cheaper "DUCK" laminator .. > > > But figured it was worth a try .. > > > I will try the preheat ... > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ > > > From: Jeff Heiss <jeff.heiss@...> > > > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com > > <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> > > > Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 12:25:40 PM > > > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Toner not sticking to PCB well > > > > > > > > > I really think is a problem with temperature. My procedure derived from > > > much experimenting is to set the laminator to 275F, preheat the > > board to > > > around 250F, run the board through the laminator twice, preheat > > again to > > > 250F and pass through two more times. The reason you have to preheat > > > again is because it will cool by the second pass. Do not depend on the > > > laminator to heat the board. It will not. Do you have a thermocouple > > > probe to take measurements? > > > > > > On 2/17/2011 12:00 PM, Randy S. wrote: > > > > > > > > ok on the HP Toners .. > > > > I ran it thru the laminator ..and there was no sign of the toner even > > > > having thoughts of sticking to the board .. > > > > Either toner .. post office or the HP .. i guess its just not getting > > > > hot enough .. > > > > Are there popular laserjet printers used for PCB's ?? > > > > I will keep trying .. and will try the paper towels .. > > > > > > > > Randy > > > > > > > > ________________________________ > > > > From: "kabowers@... <mailto:kabowers%40NorthState.net>" > > > > <kabowers@... <mailto:kabowers%40NorthState.net>> > > > > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com > > <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> > > <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com> > > > > Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 9:15:51 AM > > > > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Toner not sticking to PCB well > > > > > > > > On Wed, 16 Feb 2011 22:09:39 -0800 (PST), you wrote: > > > > > > > > >OK .. went from the problem with the traces running together > > > > >to the toner not sticking well to the copper .. > > > > > > > > > >Can it be that I'm not heating long enough ? > > > > > > > > > >Or can it also be that specific toner ? > > > > > > > > > >Its from a newer model HP copier .. > > > > > > > > > >Randy > > > > > > > > > > > > > > The variables have variables. Unless HP has changed their toners work > > > > great. > > > > I run mine (1022) at the highest quality/density setting. > > > > > > > > There's a "sweet spot" between time, temperature and size of board. > > > > I did a 4x6 board a couple of days ago using with the iron set > halfway > > > > between cotton and linen and ironed for 2.5 minutes with moderate > > > > pressure. > > > > Pay special attention to the edges. I paced the board in a folded > > Bounty > > > > paper towel and used an old cutting board for support. > > > > > > > > I use Hammermill OficeOne Business Glossy 32# paper (16302-0) which > > > > may be discontinued. If you "overcook" this stuff it's almost > > > > impossible to > > > > get off without pulling the toner off the copper. "Undercooking" > > > > results in > > > > failure to adhere; "overcooking" or slippage results in smeared > > traces. > > > > > > > > I recently failed to properly support a board in the center and > > had to > > > > strip > > > > with acetone and start over due to traces running together; lesson > > > > learned. > > > > > > > > A couple of years ago someone here suggested placing the board > between > > > > sheets of paper towel; this resulted in a major improvement for me. > > > > > > > > Keith Bowers WB4LSJ- Thomasville, NC > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > -- Paul Mateer, AA9GG Elan Engineering Corp. www.elanengr.com NAQCC 3123, SKCC 4628, FPQRP 2003 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
2011-02-17 by Randy S.
Off the PulsarProFx site:
Our amateur research led us to understand a few very important correlations
between three basic properties of toner:
1) HEAT & PRESSURE - makes toner sticky ("fuse")
2) PRESSURE - determines at what temperature toner will "fuse"
3) TEMPERATURE - determines at what point toner will "melt"Randy
________________________________From: Randy S. <rj3819@...>
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 4:19:15 PM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Toner not sticking to PCB well
Hey .. Paul
I'll take that as a yes ..
LMAO ..
and thanks
----- Original Message ----
From: Paul Mateer <paul.aa9gg@...>
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 2:00:50 PM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Toner not sticking to PCB well
YES!!!
On Thu, Feb 17, 2011 at 12:56 PM, Randy S. <rj3819@...> wrote:
>
>
> Can not soaking the board for long enough prior to rubbing it off with your
>
> thumb
> cause the toner to come off the board?
>
> ________________________________
> From: Jeff Heiss <jeff.heiss@...>
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 1:48:14 PM
> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Toner not sticking to PCB well
>
> I used a modified GBC laminator. Check "Another GBC Laminator Mod" in
> the Photos area for pictures.
>
> On 2/17/2011 1:19 PM, Randy S. wrote:
> >
> > Which laminator do you use and if its not available .. have any
> > suggestions?
> >
> > ________________________________
> > From: Andrew <a_wake@... <mailto:a_wake%40earthlink.net>>
> > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <mailto:
> Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 1:01:23 PM
> > Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Toner not sticking to PCB well
> >
> > Randy,
> >
> > The advantage of a laminator is repeatability / consistency -- but
> > only if the
> > laminator gets hot enough. Even with a hot enough laminator, most
> > people need to
> > make multiple passes to get a good transfer.
> >
> > You can get good transfers with an iron, but it becomes a little
> > harder to
> > adjust the variables -- was it too hot, or was I pressing too hard, or
> > both, or
> > ??? With an iron, I do think it helps to have a hard, non-heat-conductive
> > surface underneath, with some paper over top to help prevent
> > over-heating and/or
> > smearing.
> >
> > With either iron or laminator, I've never pre-heated the board; the
> > board (and
> > particularly the copper layer) heats up very quickly. Your mention of
> > the board
> > "sizzling" sounded way too hot to me.
> >
> > As others have said, HP toners generally work very well; you will want
> > to print
> > as densely as possible. The board needs to be very clean and dry; do
> > not use any
> > cleaners/solvents that will leave oily residue behind. I generally
> > scrub the
> > board with dish soap and water using a green scotch-brite pad, and
> > then do a
> > final wipe down with acetone. Do not touch the surface of the board after
> > cleaning it!
> >
> > I have made some decent boards using an iron. I now have a nice
> > laminator with
> > temperature and speed control, and it does increase the ease and
> > consistency and
> > therefore the speed with which I can make boards. I have also had
> > better results
> > with double-sided boards using the laminator.
> >
> > The nice thing is that you can easily and cheaply experiment to find
> > what works
> > to give you good, consistent results. If a board transfers badly, just
> > wipe it
> > off with acetone (or scrub it off), reclean the board, and try again!
> >
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>, "Randy S." <rj3819@...> wrote:
> > >
> > > ok .. thanks
> > > and yes .. have a thermocouple probe ..
> > > I cant set the laminator temp ..
> > > I guess its a cheaper "DUCK" laminator ..
> > > But figured it was worth a try ..
> > > I will try the preheat ...
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ________________________________
> > > From: Jeff Heiss <jeff.heiss@...>
> > > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 12:25:40 PM
> > > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Toner not sticking to PCB well
> > >
> > >
> > > I really think is a problem with temperature. My procedure derived from
> > > much experimenting is to set the laminator to 275F, preheat the
> > board to
> > > around 250F, run the board through the laminator twice, preheat
> > again to
> > > 250F and pass through two more times. The reason you have to preheat
> > > again is because it will cool by the second pass. Do not depend on the
> > > laminator to heat the board. It will not. Do you have a thermocouple
> > > probe to take measurements?
> > >
> > > On 2/17/2011 12:00 PM, Randy S. wrote:
> > > >
> > > > ok on the HP Toners ..
> > > > I ran it thru the laminator ..and there was no sign of the toner even
> > > > having thoughts of sticking to the board ..
> > > > Either toner .. post office or the HP .. i guess its just not getting
> > > > hot enough ..
> > > > Are there popular laserjet printers used for PCB's ??
> > > > I will keep trying .. and will try the paper towels ..
> > > >
> > > > Randy
> > > >
> > > > ________________________________
> > > > From: "kabowers@... <mailto:kabowers%40NorthState.net>"
> > > > <kabowers@... <mailto:kabowers%40NorthState.net>>
> > > > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
> > <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > > Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 9:15:51 AM
> > > > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Toner not sticking to PCB well
> > > >
> > > > On Wed, 16 Feb 2011 22:09:39 -0800 (PST), you wrote:
> > > >
> > > > >OK .. went from the problem with the traces running together
> > > > >to the toner not sticking well to the copper ..
> > > > >
> > > > >Can it be that I'm not heating long enough ?
> > > > >
> > > > >Or can it also be that specific toner ?
> > > > >
> > > > >Its from a newer model HP copier ..
> > > > >
> > > > >Randy
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > The variables have variables. Unless HP has changed their toners work
> > > > great.
> > > > I run mine (1022) at the highest quality/density setting.
> > > >
> > > > There's a "sweet spot" between time, temperature and size of board.
> > > > I did a 4x6 board a couple of days ago using with the iron set
> halfway
> > > > between cotton and linen and ironed for 2.5 minutes with moderate
> > > > pressure.
> > > > Pay special attention to the edges. I paced the board in a folded
> > Bounty
> > > > paper towel and used an old cutting board for support.
> > > >
> > > > I use Hammermill OficeOne Business Glossy 32# paper (16302-0) which
> > > > may be discontinued. If you "overcook" this stuff it's almost
> > > > impossible to
> > > > get off without pulling the toner off the copper. "Undercooking"
> > > > results in
> > > > failure to adhere; "overcooking" or slippage results in smeared
> > traces.
> > > >
> > > > I recently failed to properly support a board in the center and
> > had to
> > > > strip
> > > > with acetone and start over due to traces running together; lesson
> > > > learned.
> > > >
> > > > A couple of years ago someone here suggested placing the board
> between
> > > > sheets of paper towel; this resulted in a major improvement for me.
> > > >
> > > > Keith Bowers WB4LSJ- Thomasville, NC
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
--
Paul Mateer, AA9GG
Elan Engineering Corp.
www.elanengr.com
NAQCC 3123, SKCC 4628, FPQRP 2003
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
------------------------------------
Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]2011-02-17 by Randy S.
Heres an interesting approach .. http://www.pulsarprofx.com/pcbfx/main_site/pages/tech_support/tips_n_tricks/1.html Randy ________________________________
From: Randy S. <rj3819@...>
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 4:59:17 PM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Toner not sticking to PCB well
Off the PulsarProFx site:
Our amateur research led us to understand a few very important correlations
between three basic properties of toner:
1) HEAT & PRESSURE - makes toner sticky ("fuse")
2) PRESSURE - determines at what temperature toner will "fuse"
3) TEMPERATURE - determines at what point toner will "melt"Randy
________________________________
From: Randy S. <rj3819@...>
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 4:19:15 PM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Toner not sticking to PCB well
Hey .. Paul
I'll take that as a yes ..
LMAO ..
and thanks
----- Original Message ----
From: Paul Mateer <paul.aa9gg@...>
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 2:00:50 PM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Toner not sticking to PCB well
YES!!!
On Thu, Feb 17, 2011 at 12:56 PM, Randy S. <rj3819@...> wrote:
>
>
> Can not soaking the board for long enough prior to rubbing it off with your
>
> thumb
> cause the toner to come off the board?
>
> ________________________________
> From: Jeff Heiss <jeff.heiss@...>
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 1:48:14 PM
> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Toner not sticking to PCB well
>
> I used a modified GBC laminator. Check "Another GBC Laminator Mod" in
> the Photos area for pictures.
>
> On 2/17/2011 1:19 PM, Randy S. wrote:
> >
> > Which laminator do you use and if its not available .. have any
> > suggestions?
> >
> > ________________________________
> > From: Andrew <a_wake@... <mailto:a_wake%40earthlink.net>>
> > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <mailto:
> Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 1:01:23 PM
> > Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Toner not sticking to PCB well
> >
> > Randy,
> >
> > The advantage of a laminator is repeatability / consistency -- but
> > only if the
> > laminator gets hot enough. Even with a hot enough laminator, most
> > people need to
> > make multiple passes to get a good transfer.
> >
> > You can get good transfers with an iron, but it becomes a little
> > harder to
> > adjust the variables -- was it too hot, or was I pressing too hard, or
> > both, or
> > ??? With an iron, I do think it helps to have a hard, non-heat-conductive
> > surface underneath, with some paper over top to help prevent
> > over-heating and/or
> > smearing.
> >
> > With either iron or laminator, I've never pre-heated the board; the
> > board (and
> > particularly the copper layer) heats up very quickly. Your mention of
> > the board
> > "sizzling" sounded way too hot to me.
> >
> > As others have said, HP toners generally work very well; you will want
> > to print
> > as densely as possible. The board needs to be very clean and dry; do
> > not use any
> > cleaners/solvents that will leave oily residue behind. I generally
> > scrub the
> > board with dish soap and water using a green scotch-brite pad, and
> > then do a
> > final wipe down with acetone. Do not touch the surface of the board after
> > cleaning it!
> >
> > I have made some decent boards using an iron. I now have a nice
> > laminator with
> > temperature and speed control, and it does increase the ease and
> > consistency and
> > therefore the speed with which I can make boards. I have also had
> > better results
> > with double-sided boards using the laminator.
> >
> > The nice thing is that you can easily and cheaply experiment to find
> > what works
> > to give you good, consistent results. If a board transfers badly, just
> > wipe it
> > off with acetone (or scrub it off), reclean the board, and try again!
> >
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>, "Randy S." <rj3819@...> wrote:
> > >
> > > ok .. thanks
> > > and yes .. have a thermocouple probe ..
> > > I cant set the laminator temp ..
> > > I guess its a cheaper "DUCK" laminator ..
> > > But figured it was worth a try ..
> > > I will try the preheat ...
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ________________________________
> > > From: Jeff Heiss <jeff.heiss@...>
> > > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 12:25:40 PM
> > > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Toner not sticking to PCB well
> > >
> > >
> > > I really think is a problem with temperature. My procedure derived from
> > > much experimenting is to set the laminator to 275F, preheat the
> > board to
> > > around 250F, run the board through the laminator twice, preheat
> > again to
> > > 250F and pass through two more times. The reason you have to preheat
> > > again is because it will cool by the second pass. Do not depend on the
> > > laminator to heat the board. It will not. Do you have a thermocouple
> > > probe to take measurements?
> > >
> > > On 2/17/2011 12:00 PM, Randy S. wrote:
> > > >
> > > > ok on the HP Toners ..
> > > > I ran it thru the laminator ..and there was no sign of the toner even
> > > > having thoughts of sticking to the board ..
> > > > Either toner .. post office or the HP .. i guess its just not getting
> > > > hot enough ..
> > > > Are there popular laserjet printers used for PCB's ??
> > > > I will keep trying .. and will try the paper towels ..
> > > >
> > > > Randy
> > > >
> > > > ________________________________
> > > > From: "kabowers@... <mailto:kabowers%40NorthState.net>"
> > > > <kabowers@... <mailto:kabowers%40NorthState.net>>
> > > > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
> > <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > > Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 9:15:51 AM
> > > > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Toner not sticking to PCB well
> > > >
> > > > On Wed, 16 Feb 2011 22:09:39 -0800 (PST), you wrote:
> > > >
> > > > >OK .. went from the problem with the traces running together
> > > > >to the toner not sticking well to the copper ..
> > > > >
> > > > >Can it be that I'm not heating long enough ?
> > > > >
> > > > >Or can it also be that specific toner ?
> > > > >
> > > > >Its from a newer model HP copier ..
> > > > >
> > > > >Randy
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > The variables have variables. Unless HP has changed their toners work
> > > > great.
> > > > I run mine (1022) at the highest quality/density setting.
> > > >
> > > > There's a "sweet spot" between time, temperature and size of board.
> > > > I did a 4x6 board a couple of days ago using with the iron set
> halfway
> > > > between cotton and linen and ironed for 2.5 minutes with moderate
> > > > pressure.
> > > > Pay special attention to the edges. I paced the board in a folded
> > Bounty
> > > > paper towel and used an old cutting board for support.
> > > >
> > > > I use Hammermill OficeOne Business Glossy 32# paper (16302-0) which
> > > > may be discontinued. If you "overcook" this stuff it's almost
> > > > impossible to
> > > > get off without pulling the toner off the copper. "Undercooking"
> > > > results in
> > > > failure to adhere; "overcooking" or slippage results in smeared
> > traces.
> > > >
> > > > I recently failed to properly support a board in the center and
> > had to
> > > > strip
> > > > with acetone and start over due to traces running together; lesson
> > > > learned.
> > > >
> > > > A couple of years ago someone here suggested placing the board
> between
> > > > sheets of paper towel; this resulted in a major improvement for me.
> > > >
> > > > Keith Bowers WB4LSJ- Thomasville, NC
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
--
Paul Mateer, AA9GG
Elan Engineering Corp.
www.elanengr.com
NAQCC 3123, SKCC 4628, FPQRP 2003
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
------------------------------------
Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]2011-02-18 by Donald H Locker
NO!!! Donald. Reason - Toner is not water soluble. -- *Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue () no proprietary attachments; no html mail /\ ascii ribbon campaign - <www.asciiribbon.org>
----- Original Message ----- > From: "Randy S." <rj3819@...> > To: "Homebrew PCBs" <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> > Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2011 1:56:36 PM > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Toner not sticking to PCB well > > Can not soaking the board for long enough prior to rubbing it off with your thumb > cause the toner to come off the board? > > > > > ________________________________ > From: Jeff Heiss <jeff.heiss@...> > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 1:48:14 PM > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Toner not sticking to PCB well > > > I used a modified GBC laminator. Check "Another GBC Laminator Mod" in > the Photos area for pictures. > > On 2/17/2011 1:19 PM, Randy S. wrote: > > > > Which laminator do you use and if its not available .. have any > > suggestions? > > [snip]
2011-02-18 by tda7000
This is the laminator I use: http://ultrakeet.com.au/index.php?id=article&name=superfuser The larger the boards the more passes are needed through it. Some small boards work in just 1 or 2! but one of the big ones I did a while back had to go through about 15 times IIRC. If yours doesn't have electronic control and instead uses a thermal switch you can probably still modify it anyway by replacing the thermal switch with another of higher temperature, see: http://ultrakeet.com.au/index.php?id=article&name=fritzHack I clean with a wet pot scourer and then acetone, but in previous tests I found that cleaning with acetone is not actually necessary for the toner to stick. However I do it now anyway because of the surprising amount of dirt that comes off when using the acetone! --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Randy S." <rj3819@...> wrote:
>
> Heres an interesting approach ..
> http://www.pulsarprofx.com/pcbfx/main_site/pages/tech_support/tips_n_tricks/1.html
>
>
> Randy
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Randy S. <rj3819@...>
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 4:59:17 PM
> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Toner not sticking to PCB well
>
> Â
> Off the PulsarProFx site:
>
> Our amateur research led us to understand a few very important correlations
> between three basic properties of toner:
> 1) HEAT & PRESSURE - makes toner sticky ("fuse")
> 2) PRESSURE - determines at what temperature toner will "fuse"
> 3) TEMPERATURE - determines at what point toner will "melt"Randy
>
> ________________________________
> From: Randy S. <rj3819@...>
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 4:19:15 PM
> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Toner not sticking to PCB well
>
> Â
> Hey .. Paul
> I'll take that as a yes ..
> LMAO ..
>
> and thanks
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Paul Mateer <paul.aa9gg@...>
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 2:00:50 PM
> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Toner not sticking to PCB well
>
> YES!!!
>
> On Thu, Feb 17, 2011 at 12:56 PM, Randy S. <rj3819@...> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > Can not soaking the board for long enough prior to rubbing it off with your
> >
> > thumb
> > cause the toner to come off the board?
> >
> > ________________________________
> > From: Jeff Heiss <jeff.heiss@...>
> > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 1:48:14 PM
> > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Toner not sticking to PCB well
> >
> > I used a modified GBC laminator. Check "Another GBC Laminator Mod" in
> > the Photos area for pictures.
> >
> > On 2/17/2011 1:19 PM, Randy S. wrote:
> > >
> > > Which laminator do you use and if its not available .. have any
> > > suggestions?
> > >
> > > ________________________________
> > > From: Andrew <a_wake@... <mailto:a_wake%40earthlink.net>>
> > > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com <mailto:
> > Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 1:01:23 PM
> > > Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Toner not sticking to PCB well
> > >
> > > Randy,
> > >
> > > The advantage of a laminator is repeatability / consistency -- but
> > > only if the
> > > laminator gets hot enough. Even with a hot enough laminator, most
> > > people need to
> > > make multiple passes to get a good transfer.
> > >
> > > You can get good transfers with an iron, but it becomes a little
> > > harder to
> > > adjust the variables -- was it too hot, or was I pressing too hard, or
> > > both, or
> > > ??? With an iron, I do think it helps to have a hard, non-heat-conductive
> > > surface underneath, with some paper over top to help prevent
> > > over-heating and/or
> > > smearing.
> > >
> > > With either iron or laminator, I've never pre-heated the board; the
> > > board (and
> > > particularly the copper layer) heats up very quickly. Your mention of
> > > the board
> > > "sizzling" sounded way too hot to me.
> > >
> > > As others have said, HP toners generally work very well; you will want
> > > to print
> > > as densely as possible. The board needs to be very clean and dry; do
> > > not use any
> > > cleaners/solvents that will leave oily residue behind. I generally
> > > scrub the
> > > board with dish soap and water using a green scotch-brite pad, and
> > > then do a
> > > final wipe down with acetone. Do not touch the surface of the board after
> > > cleaning it!
> > >
> > > I have made some decent boards using an iron. I now have a nice
> > > laminator with
> > > temperature and speed control, and it does increase the ease and
> > > consistency and
> > > therefore the speed with which I can make boards. I have also had
> > > better results
> > > with double-sided boards using the laminator.
> > >
> > > The nice thing is that you can easily and cheaply experiment to find
> > > what works
> > > to give you good, consistent results. If a board transfers badly, just
> > > wipe it
> > > off with acetone (or scrub it off), reclean the board, and try again!
> > >
> > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>, "Randy S." <rj3819@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > ok .. thanks
> > > > and yes .. have a thermocouple probe ..
> > > > I cant set the laminator temp ..
> > > > I guess its a cheaper "DUCK" laminator ..
> > > > But figured it was worth a try ..
> > > > I will try the preheat ...
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ________________________________
> > > > From: Jeff Heiss <jeff.heiss@>
> > > > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > > Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 12:25:40 PM
> > > > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Toner not sticking to PCB well
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > I really think is a problem with temperature. My procedure derived from
> > > > much experimenting is to set the laminator to 275F, preheat the
> > > board to
> > > > around 250F, run the board through the laminator twice, preheat
> > > again to
> > > > 250F and pass through two more times. The reason you have to preheat
> > > > again is because it will cool by the second pass. Do not depend on the
> > > > laminator to heat the board. It will not. Do you have a thermocouple
> > > > probe to take measurements?
> > > >
> > > > On 2/17/2011 12:00 PM, Randy S. wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > ok on the HP Toners ..
> > > > > I ran it thru the laminator ..and there was no sign of the toner even
> > > > > having thoughts of sticking to the board ..
> > > > > Either toner .. post office or the HP .. i guess its just not getting
> > > > > hot enough ..
> > > > > Are there popular laserjet printers used for PCB's ??
> > > > > I will keep trying .. and will try the paper towels ..
> > > > >
> > > > > Randy
> > > > >
> > > > > ________________________________
> > > > > From: "kabowers@ <mailto:kabowers%40NorthState.net>"
> > > > > <kabowers@ <mailto:kabowers%40NorthState.net>>
> > > > > To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> > > <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>
> > > > > Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 9:15:51 AM
> > > > > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Toner not sticking to PCB well
> > > > >
> > > > > On Wed, 16 Feb 2011 22:09:39 -0800 (PST), you wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > >OK .. went from the problem with the traces running together
> > > > > >to the toner not sticking well to the copper ..
> > > > > >
> > > > > >Can it be that I'm not heating long enough ?
> > > > > >
> > > > > >Or can it also be that specific toner ?
> > > > > >
> > > > > >Its from a newer model HP copier ..
> > > > > >
> > > > > >Randy
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > The variables have variables. Unless HP has changed their toners work
> > > > > great.
> > > > > I run mine (1022) at the highest quality/density setting.
> > > > >
> > > > > There's a "sweet spot" between time, temperature and size of board.
> > > > > I did a 4x6 board a couple of days ago using with the iron set
> > halfway
> > > > > between cotton and linen and ironed for 2.5 minutes with moderate
> > > > > pressure.
> > > > > Pay special attention to the edges. I paced the board in a folded
> > > Bounty
> > > > > paper towel and used an old cutting board for support.
> > > > >
> > > > > I use Hammermill OficeOne Business Glossy 32# paper (16302-0) which
> > > > > may be discontinued. If you "overcook" this stuff it's almost
> > > > > impossible to
> > > > > get off without pulling the toner off the copper. "Undercooking"
> > > > > results in
> > > > > failure to adhere; "overcooking" or slippage results in smeared
> > > traces.
> > > > >
> > > > > I recently failed to properly support a board in the center and
> > > had to
> > > > > strip
> > > > > with acetone and start over due to traces running together; lesson
> > > > > learned.
> > > > >
> > > > > A couple of years ago someone here suggested placing the board
> > between
> > > > > sheets of paper towel; this resulted in a major improvement for me.
> > > > >
> > > > > Keith Bowers WB4LSJ- Thomasville, NC
> > > > >
> > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> > >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >Â
> >
>
> --
> Paul Mateer, AA9GG
> Elan Engineering Corp.
> www.elanengr.com
> NAQCC 3123, SKCC 4628, FPQRP 2003
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>2011-02-18 by Randy S.
Too funny .. I have a definite no and yes LOL Yeah .. more reading .. not fusing to the board .. I guess if you can rub it off the etchant is going to get in and under it anyways? ________________________________
From: Donald H Locker <dhlocker@...>
To: Homebrew PCBs <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 8:12:12 PM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Toner not sticking to PCB well
NO!!!
Donald.
Reason - Toner is not water soluble.
--
*Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue
() no proprietary attachments; no html mail
/\ ascii ribbon campaign - <www.asciiribbon.org>
----- Original Message -----
> From: "Randy S." <rj3819@...>
> To: "Homebrew PCBs" <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2011 1:56:36 PM
> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Toner not sticking to PCB well
>
> Can not soaking the board for long enough prior to rubbing it off with your
>thumb
> cause the toner to come off the board?
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Jeff Heiss <jeff.heiss@...>
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 1:48:14 PM
> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Toner not sticking to PCB well
>
>
> I used a modified GBC laminator. Check "Another GBC Laminator Mod" in
> the Photos area for pictures.
>
> On 2/17/2011 1:19 PM, Randy S. wrote:
> >
> > Which laminator do you use and if its not available .. have any
> > suggestions?
> >
[snip]
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]2011-02-18 by Donald H Locker
Fortunately, this discrepancy can be resolved by a simple experiment. Fuse the toner to the Cu-clad as you have in the past (where the traces merged) then try rubbing them off under water and/or with various solvents. (Hint - start with water, then water with soap, water with detergent, isopropanol, ethanol, methanol, acetone, ... Test each solvent on areas that weren't affected by previous solvents, and on virgin toner.) Let us know the results. Donald. -- *Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue () no proprietary attachments; no html mail /\ ascii ribbon campaign - <www.asciiribbon.org>
----- Original Message ----- > From: "Randy S." <rj3819@yahoo.com> > To: "Homebrew PCBs" <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> > Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2011 8:25:54 PM > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Toner not sticking to PCB well > > Too funny .. I have a definite no and yes LOL > Yeah .. more reading .. not fusing to the board .. > I guess if you can rub it off the etchant is going > to get in and under it anyways? > > > > > ________________________________ > From: Donald H Locker <dhlocker@comcast.net> > To: Homebrew PCBs <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> > Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 8:12:12 PM > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Toner not sticking to PCB well > > > NO!!! > > Donald. > Reason - Toner is not water soluble. > -- > *Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue > () no proprietary attachments; no html mail > /\ ascii ribbon campaign - <www.asciiribbon.org> > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: "Randy S." <rj3819@...> > > To: "Homebrew PCBs" <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com> > > Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2011 1:56:36 PM > > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Toner not sticking to PCB well > > > > Can not soaking the board for long enough prior to rubbing it off with your > >thumb > > cause the toner to come off the board? > > > > [snip]
2011-02-18 by Randy S.
UPDATE: Well .. I switched to a Canon printer we have at work .. max density .. and used this technique : http://www.pulsarprofx.com/pcbfx/main_site/pages/tech_support/tips_n_tricks/1.html And it WORKED !! yippee .. I also use the paper towel around the board like someone had mentioned.. Now .. can I do it again? Is it repeatable? I hope so .. Randy - N2CUA ________________________________
From: Donald H Locker <dhlocker@...>
To: Homebrew PCBs <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 8:38:52 PM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Toner not sticking to PCB well
Fortunately, this discrepancy can be resolved by a simple experiment. Fuse the
toner to the Cu-clad as you have in the past (where the traces merged) then try
rubbing them off under water and/or with various solvents. (Hint - start with
water, then water with soap, water with detergent, isopropanol, ethanol,
methanol, acetone, ... Test each solvent on areas that weren't affected by
previous solvents, and on virgin toner.)
Let us know the results.
Donald.
--
*Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue
() no proprietary attachments; no html mail
/\ ascii ribbon campaign - <www.asciiribbon.org>
----- Original Message -----
> From: "Randy S." <rj3819@...>
> To: "Homebrew PCBs" <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2011 8:25:54 PM
> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Toner not sticking to PCB well
>
> Too funny .. I have a definite no and yes LOL
> Yeah .. more reading .. not fusing to the board ..
> I guess if you can rub it off the etchant is going
> to get in and under it anyways?
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Donald H Locker <dhlocker@...>
> To: Homebrew PCBs <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Thu, February 17, 2011 8:12:12 PM
> Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Toner not sticking to PCB well
>
>
> NO!!!
>
> Donald.
> Reason - Toner is not water soluble.
> --
> *Plain Text* email -- it's an accessibility issue
> () no proprietary attachments; no html mail
> /\ ascii ribbon campaign - <www.asciiribbon.org>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> > From: "Randy S." <rj3819@...>
> > To: "Homebrew PCBs" <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2011 1:56:36 PM
> > Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Toner not sticking to PCB well
> >
> > Can not soaking the board for long enough prior to rubbing it off with your
> >thumb
> > cause the toner to come off the board?
> >
> >
[snip]
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]