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Thread
2011-02-22 by Randy S.
FR-4 doesnt have to be green colored? Correct ? Other question .. for making etchant .. I saw 2 parts peroxide to one part muriatic acid ( 34% hydrochloric acid ) and I saw 3 to mix as well .. Is it crucial ? I mean I guess the only thing that it would change is the etching times .. and the fumes LOL .. ?? Randy
2011-02-22 by Adam Shea
FR-4 isn't green, it's kinda beige. On commercial boards it's the solder mask that's green (or red, or blue, or black, or white). --Adam Shea.
On 2/21/2011 7:29 PM, Randy S. wrote: > FR-4 doesnt have to be green colored? Correct ? > > Other question .. for making etchant .. > I saw 2 parts peroxide to one part muriatic acid ( 34% hydrochloric acid ) > and I saw 3 to mix as well .. > Is it crucial ? I mean I guess the only thing that it would change is the > etching > times .. and the fumes LOL .. ?? > > Randy > > > > > > > ------------------------------------ > > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos: > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links > > >
2011-02-22 by Tom Biery
I don't know if that formula is correct I am curious if it is? What are the benifits of using that vs ammonium persulfate, that is what I am using in this youtube video... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=trnvlrVq6P0 and it works fine. Please let me know. Tom ________________________________
From: Randy S. <rj3819@...> To: Homebrew_PCB <homebrew_pcbs@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Mon, February 21, 2011 8:29:51 PM Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] FR-4 Copper Clad and Etchant mix FR-4 doesnt have to be green colored? Correct ? Other question .. for making etchant .. I saw 2 parts peroxide to one part muriatic acid ( 34% hydrochloric acid ) and I saw 3 to mix as well .. Is it crucial ? I mean I guess the only thing that it would change is the etching times .. and the fumes LOL .. ?? Randy [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2011-02-22 by Harvey White
On Mon, 21 Feb 2011 17:29:51 -0800 (PST), you wrote: >FR-4 doesnt have to be green colored? Correct ? I've used black, good for displays, blocks light. > >Other question .. for making etchant .. >I saw 2 parts peroxide to one part muriatic acid ( 34% hydrochloric acid ) >and I saw 3 to mix as well .. >Is it crucial ? I mean I guess the only thing that it would change is the >etching >times .. and the fumes LOL .. ?? I've used 4 parts peroxide to 1 part acid. Don't think it's absolutely critical. Harvey
> >Randy > > > > > > >------------------------------------ > >Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos: >http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links > > >
2011-02-22 by Randy S.
ooooh ok .. thank you.. ________________________________
From: Adam Shea <shea0097@...>
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, February 21, 2011 8:31:40 PM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] FR-4 Copper Clad and Etchant mix
FR-4 isn't green, it's kinda beige. On commercial boards it's the
solder mask that's green (or red, or blue, or black, or white).
--Adam Shea.
On 2/21/2011 7:29 PM, Randy S. wrote:
> FR-4 doesnt have to be green colored? Correct ?
>
> Other question .. for making etchant ..
> I saw 2 parts peroxide to one part muriatic acid ( 34% hydrochloric acid )
> and I saw 3 to mix as well ..
> Is it crucial ? I mean I guess the only thing that it would change is the
> etching
> times .. and the fumes LOL .. ??
>
> Randy
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]2011-02-22 by Randy S.
Is it any safer in the sense of fumes, etc .. hazmat ? ________________________________
From: Tom Biery <judsquare@...>
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, February 21, 2011 8:40:42 PM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] FR-4 Copper Clad and Etchant mix
I don't know if that formula is correct I am curious if it is? What are the
benifits of using that vs ammonium persulfate, that is what I am using in this
youtube video... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=trnvlrVq6P0 and it works fine.
Please let me know.
Tom
________________________________
From: Randy S. <rj3819@...>
To: Homebrew_PCB <homebrew_pcbs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Mon, February 21, 2011 8:29:51 PM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] FR-4 Copper Clad and Etchant mix
FR-4 doesnt have to be green colored? Correct ?
Other question .. for making etchant ..
I saw 2 parts peroxide to one part muriatic acid ( 34% hydrochloric acid )
and I saw 3 to mix as well ..
Is it crucial ? I mean I guess the only thing that it would change is the
etching
times .. and the fumes LOL .. ??
Randy
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]2011-02-22 by Randy S.
oh .. can I mix and store this ? or is it a mix , use and discard ? and are there disposal issues ? ________________________________
From: Randy S. <rj3819@...>
To: Homebrew_PCB <homebrew_pcbs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Mon, February 21, 2011 8:29:51 PM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] FR-4 Copper Clad and Etchant mix
FR-4 doesnt have to be green colored? Correct ?
Other question .. for making etchant ..
I saw 2 parts peroxide to one part muriatic acid ( 34% hydrochloric acid )
and I saw 3 to mix as well ..
Is it crucial ? I mean I guess the only thing that it would change is the
etching
times .. and the fumes LOL .. ??
Randy
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]2011-02-22 by Randy S.
I mix the acid into the peroxide? Not the other way around? and do I have to mix slowly? is there heat generation or splattering? from the mixing process ? ________________________________
From: Harvey White <madyn@embarqmail.com>
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, February 21, 2011 8:43:46 PM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] FR-4 Copper Clad and Etchant mix
On Mon, 21 Feb 2011 17:29:51 -0800 (PST), you wrote:
>FR-4 doesnt have to be green colored? Correct ?
I've used black, good for displays, blocks light.
>
>Other question .. for making etchant ..
>I saw 2 parts peroxide to one part muriatic acid ( 34% hydrochloric acid )
>and I saw 3 to mix as well ..
>Is it crucial ? I mean I guess the only thing that it would change is the
>etching
>times .. and the fumes LOL .. ??
I've used 4 parts peroxide to 1 part acid. Don't think it's
absolutely critical.
Harvey
>
>Randy
>
>
>
>
>
>
>------------------------------------
>
>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]2011-02-22 by Harvey White
On Mon, 21 Feb 2011 17:46:33 -0800 (PST), you wrote: >oh .. can I mix and store this ? or is it a mix , use and discard ? >and are there disposal issues ? > Mix and store. After about 30 days, the peroxide goes and it will not etch. Bubble air through it and that will regenerate it. Eventually, I think you will need to add HCL to it. Etchant lasts a long while. Turns green to CUCL etchant... Look into the archives and there's links to a lot of good documentation. Harvey
> > > > >________________________________ >From: Randy S. <rj3819@...> >To: Homebrew_PCB <homebrew_pcbs@yahoogroups.com> >Sent: Mon, February 21, 2011 8:29:51 PM >Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] FR-4 Copper Clad and Etchant mix > > >FR-4 doesnt have to be green colored? Correct ? > >Other question .. for making etchant .. >I saw 2 parts peroxide to one part muriatic acid ( 34% hydrochloric acid ) >and I saw 3 to mix as well .. >Is it crucial ? I mean I guess the only thing that it would change is the >etching >times .. and the fumes LOL .. ?? > >Randy > > > > > > > >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > >------------------------------------ > >Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos: >http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links > > >
2011-02-22 by Harvey White
On Mon, 21 Feb 2011 18:20:02 -0800 (PST), you wrote: >I mix the acid into the peroxide? Not the other way around? >and do I have to mix slowly? is there heat generation or splattering? >from the mixing process ? > ALWAYS add acid to water. Heat will be generated, but splattering will be minimized that way. Mix slowly. Check general chemistry lab rules. Harvey
> > > >________________________________ >From: Harvey White <madyn@...> >To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com >Sent: Mon, February 21, 2011 8:43:46 PM >Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] FR-4 Copper Clad and Etchant mix > > >On Mon, 21 Feb 2011 17:29:51 -0800 (PST), you wrote: > >>FR-4 doesnt have to be green colored? Correct ? > >I've used black, good for displays, blocks light. >> >>Other question .. for making etchant .. >>I saw 2 parts peroxide to one part muriatic acid ( 34% hydrochloric acid ) >>and I saw 3 to mix as well .. >>Is it crucial ? I mean I guess the only thing that it would change is the >>etching >>times .. and the fumes LOL .. ?? > >I've used 4 parts peroxide to 1 part acid. Don't think it's >absolutely critical. > >Harvey > >> >>Randy >> >> >> >> >> >> >>------------------------------------ >> >>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos: >>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links >> >> >> > > > > > > > >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > >------------------------------------ > >Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos: >http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links > > >
2011-02-22 by Randy S.
ok thanks .. NEVER took chemistry .. lol I will look in the archives .. Thanks for the great info .. I guess I should mix small amounts unless I plan on using it up in 30 days .. is it photo sensitive? ________________________________
From: Harvey White <madyn@...>
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, February 21, 2011 9:28:42 PM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] FR-4 Copper Clad and Etchant mix
On Mon, 21 Feb 2011 18:20:02 -0800 (PST), you wrote:
>I mix the acid into the peroxide? Not the other way around?
>and do I have to mix slowly? is there heat generation or splattering?
>from the mixing process ?
>
ALWAYS add acid to water. Heat will be generated, but splattering
will be minimized that way. Mix slowly. Check general chemistry lab
rules.
Harvey
>
>
>
>________________________________
>From: Harvey White <madyn@...>
>To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>Sent: Mon, February 21, 2011 8:43:46 PM
>Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] FR-4 Copper Clad and Etchant mix
>
>
>On Mon, 21 Feb 2011 17:29:51 -0800 (PST), you wrote:
>
>>FR-4 doesnt have to be green colored? Correct ?
>
>I've used black, good for displays, blocks light.
>>
>>Other question .. for making etchant ..
>>I saw 2 parts peroxide to one part muriatic acid ( 34% hydrochloric acid )
>>and I saw 3 to mix as well ..
>>Is it crucial ? I mean I guess the only thing that it would change is the
>>etching
>>times .. and the fumes LOL .. ??
>
>I've used 4 parts peroxide to 1 part acid. Don't think it's
>absolutely critical.
>
>Harvey
>
>>
>>Randy
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>------------------------------------
>>
>>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>------------------------------------
>
>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]2011-02-22 by Harvey White
On Mon, 21 Feb 2011 18:31:50 -0800 (PST), you wrote: >ok thanks .. NEVER took chemistry .. lol >I will look in the archives .. >Thanks for the great info .. >I guess I should mix small amounts unless I plan on using >it up in 30 days .. is it photo sensitive? > Not photo sensitive. Since it's an acid, it will eat holes in your shirt. I use it outside, having heated it a bit and bubbled air through it. When brand new, it etches boards in about 5 or 6 minutes at the most. After a long while, it stretches to 20 minutes. If you're in the US, then the acid is about 8 dollars a gallon, and the H2O2 (peroxide) is about 1.50 to 2.00 a quart. You want the 3% stuff sold in the drugstores. It is also known as 30 vol, a measure of the amount of oxygen it will produce. You start off with one etchant, you end up with another. Some will immediately add about 4-6 oz of copper to convert to the CuCl etchant. I let the boards do it. Bottom line: it's cheap. I use a cereal container (plastic), relatively acid proof, and do 4 by 6 inch boards (actual size before trimming about 5 by 7 inches). I can do two of them at once or more than two depending on what the board size is. Air bubbling moves the etchant around, and gives the etchant the air it needs. I use about 5 quarts at a time, due to the board and tank size. Harvey
> > > >________________________________ >From: Harvey White <madyn@...> >To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com >Sent: Mon, February 21, 2011 9:28:42 PM >Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] FR-4 Copper Clad and Etchant mix > > >On Mon, 21 Feb 2011 18:20:02 -0800 (PST), you wrote: > >>I mix the acid into the peroxide? Not the other way around? >>and do I have to mix slowly? is there heat generation or splattering? >>from the mixing process ? >> > >ALWAYS add acid to water. Heat will be generated, but splattering >will be minimized that way. Mix slowly. Check general chemistry lab >rules. > >Harvey > >> >> >> >>________________________________ >>From: Harvey White <madyn@...> >>To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com >>Sent: Mon, February 21, 2011 8:43:46 PM >>Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] FR-4 Copper Clad and Etchant mix >> >> >>On Mon, 21 Feb 2011 17:29:51 -0800 (PST), you wrote: >> >>>FR-4 doesnt have to be green colored? Correct ? >> >>I've used black, good for displays, blocks light. >>> >>>Other question .. for making etchant .. >>>I saw 2 parts peroxide to one part muriatic acid ( 34% hydrochloric acid ) >>>and I saw 3 to mix as well .. >>>Is it crucial ? I mean I guess the only thing that it would change is the >>>etching >>>times .. and the fumes LOL .. ?? >> >>I've used 4 parts peroxide to 1 part acid. Don't think it's >>absolutely critical. >> >>Harvey >> >>> >>>Randy >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>>------------------------------------ >>> >>>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos: >>>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >> >> >> >>------------------------------------ >> >>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos: >>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links >> >> >> > > > > > > > >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > >------------------------------------ > >Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos: >http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links > > >
2011-02-22 by Randy S.
ok thanks .. I was thinking about mixing in a antifreeze jug .. and putting in 3 - 32oz H2O2 and then add 32 OZ of acid .. outdoors, slowly, with respirator and nitrile gloves and glasses.. I have an old aquarium pump and aerator somewhere .. ________________________________
From: Harvey White <madyn@...>
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, February 21, 2011 9:48:15 PM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] FR-4 Copper Clad and Etchant mix
On Mon, 21 Feb 2011 18:31:50 -0800 (PST), you wrote:
>ok thanks .. NEVER took chemistry .. lol
>I will look in the archives ..
>Thanks for the great info ..
>I guess I should mix small amounts unless I plan on using
>it up in 30 days .. is it photo sensitive?
>
Not photo sensitive. Since it's an acid, it will eat holes in your
shirt. I use it outside, having heated it a bit and bubbled air
through it. When brand new, it etches boards in about 5 or 6 minutes
at the most. After a long while, it stretches to 20 minutes.
If you're in the US, then the acid is about 8 dollars a gallon, and
the H2O2 (peroxide) is about 1.50 to 2.00 a quart. You want the 3%
stuff sold in the drugstores. It is also known as 30 vol, a measure
of the amount of oxygen it will produce.
You start off with one etchant, you end up with another. Some will
immediately add about 4-6 oz of copper to convert to the CuCl etchant.
I let the boards do it.
Bottom line: it's cheap. I use a cereal container (plastic),
relatively acid proof, and do 4 by 6 inch boards (actual size before
trimming about 5 by 7 inches). I can do two of them at once or more
than two depending on what the board size is.
Air bubbling moves the etchant around, and gives the etchant the air
it needs. I use about 5 quarts at a time, due to the board and tank
size.
Harvey
>
>
>
>________________________________
>From: Harvey White <madyn@...>
>To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>Sent: Mon, February 21, 2011 9:28:42 PM
>Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] FR-4 Copper Clad and Etchant mix
>
>
>On Mon, 21 Feb 2011 18:20:02 -0800 (PST), you wrote:
>
>>I mix the acid into the peroxide? Not the other way around?
>>and do I have to mix slowly? is there heat generation or splattering?
>>from the mixing process ?
>>
>
>ALWAYS add acid to water. Heat will be generated, but splattering
>will be minimized that way. Mix slowly. Check general chemistry lab
>rules.
>
>Harvey
>
>>
>>
>>
>>________________________________
>>From: Harvey White <madyn@...>
>>To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>>Sent: Mon, February 21, 2011 8:43:46 PM
>>Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] FR-4 Copper Clad and Etchant mix
>>
>>
>>On Mon, 21 Feb 2011 17:29:51 -0800 (PST), you wrote:
>>
>>>FR-4 doesnt have to be green colored? Correct ?
>>
>>I've used black, good for displays, blocks light.
>>>
>>>Other question .. for making etchant ..
>>>I saw 2 parts peroxide to one part muriatic acid ( 34% hydrochloric acid )
>>>and I saw 3 to mix as well ..
>>>Is it crucial ? I mean I guess the only thing that it would change is the
>>>etching
>>>times .. and the fumes LOL .. ??
>>
>>I've used 4 parts peroxide to 1 part acid. Don't think it's
>>absolutely critical.
>>
>>Harvey
>>
>>>
>>>Randy
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>------------------------------------
>>>
>>>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>>>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>>
>>
>>------------------------------------
>>
>>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>------------------------------------
>
>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]2011-02-22 by Leon Heller
On 22/02/2011 01:29, Randy S. wrote: > FR-4 doesnt have to be green colored? Correct ? The colour depends on the solder-mask colour. Leon -- Leon Heller G1HSM
2011-02-22 by Randy S.
How do I dispose of exhausted etchant ? ________________________________
From: Harvey White <madyn@...>
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Mon, February 21, 2011 9:48:15 PM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] FR-4 Copper Clad and Etchant mix
On Mon, 21 Feb 2011 18:31:50 -0800 (PST), you wrote:
>ok thanks .. NEVER took chemistry .. lol
>I will look in the archives ..
>Thanks for the great info ..
>I guess I should mix small amounts unless I plan on using
>it up in 30 days .. is it photo sensitive?
>
Not photo sensitive. Since it's an acid, it will eat holes in your
shirt. I use it outside, having heated it a bit and bubbled air
through it. When brand new, it etches boards in about 5 or 6 minutes
at the most. After a long while, it stretches to 20 minutes.
If you're in the US, then the acid is about 8 dollars a gallon, and
the H2O2 (peroxide) is about 1.50 to 2.00 a quart. You want the 3%
stuff sold in the drugstores. It is also known as 30 vol, a measure
of the amount of oxygen it will produce.
You start off with one etchant, you end up with another. Some will
immediately add about 4-6 oz of copper to convert to the CuCl etchant.
I let the boards do it.
Bottom line: it's cheap. I use a cereal container (plastic),
relatively acid proof, and do 4 by 6 inch boards (actual size before
trimming about 5 by 7 inches). I can do two of them at once or more
than two depending on what the board size is.
Air bubbling moves the etchant around, and gives the etchant the air
it needs. I use about 5 quarts at a time, due to the board and tank
size.
Harvey
>
>
>
>________________________________
>From: Harvey White <madyn@...>
>To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>Sent: Mon, February 21, 2011 9:28:42 PM
>Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] FR-4 Copper Clad and Etchant mix
>
>
>On Mon, 21 Feb 2011 18:20:02 -0800 (PST), you wrote:
>
>>I mix the acid into the peroxide? Not the other way around?
>>and do I have to mix slowly? is there heat generation or splattering?
>>from the mixing process ?
>>
>
>ALWAYS add acid to water. Heat will be generated, but splattering
>will be minimized that way. Mix slowly. Check general chemistry lab
>rules.
>
>Harvey
>
>>
>>
>>
>>________________________________
>>From: Harvey White <madyn@...>
>>To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>>Sent: Mon, February 21, 2011 8:43:46 PM
>>Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] FR-4 Copper Clad and Etchant mix
>>
>>
>>On Mon, 21 Feb 2011 17:29:51 -0800 (PST), you wrote:
>>
>>>FR-4 doesnt have to be green colored? Correct ?
>>
>>I've used black, good for displays, blocks light.
>>>
>>>Other question .. for making etchant ..
>>>I saw 2 parts peroxide to one part muriatic acid ( 34% hydrochloric acid )
>>>and I saw 3 to mix as well ..
>>>Is it crucial ? I mean I guess the only thing that it would change is the
>>>etching
>>>times .. and the fumes LOL .. ??
>>
>>I've used 4 parts peroxide to 1 part acid. Don't think it's
>>absolutely critical.
>>
>>Harvey
>>
>>>
>>>Randy
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>------------------------------------
>>>
>>>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>>>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>>
>>
>>------------------------------------
>>
>>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>------------------------------------
>
>Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]