Homebrew PCBs

Just saw this online from Hackaday: http://www.instructables.com/id/Toner-transfer-no-soak-high-quality-double-sided/

Anyone else tried it?

Yes, it has come up before.

<http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/msearch?query=silicone+paper&charset=windows-1252>

Using parchment baking paper and silicone coated paper from Laser label backing.

Some files under Toner Transfer:
<http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/files/Toner_Transfer/>



Steve Greenfield AE7HD


--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "tda7000" <Tda7000@...> wrote:

>
> Just saw this online from Hackaday: http://www.instructables.com/id/Toner-transfer-no-soak-high-quality-double-sided/
> 
> Anyone else tried it?
>

I tried this some time ago, it did not work for me. That paper is just too
slippery, toner does not stick good enough, it's not possible to handle it
without bits of an image falling off.

On Sun, May 6, 2012 at 7:36 AM, AlienRelics <alienrelics@...> wrote:

> **
>
>
> Yes, it has come up before.
>
> <
> http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/msearch?query=silicone+paper&charset=windows-1252
> >
>
> Using parchment baking paper and silicone coated paper from Laser label
> backing.
>
> Some files under Toner Transfer:
> <http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/files/Toner_Transfer/>
>
> Steve Greenfield AE7HD
>
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "tda7000" <Tda7000@...> wrote:
> >
> > Just saw this online from Hackaday:
> http://www.instructables.com/id/Toner-transfer-no-soak-high-quality-double-sided/
> >
> > Anyone else tried it?
> >
>
>  
>



-- 
KPL


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

After reading more about it, it does seem rather delicate. Perhaps only the exact brand of paper he used works great, and the rest don't.

Still, I don't think I am going to try it.

I already get pretty nice results with the old magazine paper I've been using (except for large solid fills, but that is the printer's fault of course)


I had just never heard of using the baking paper before and thought I had (sort of) discovered some new and exciting type of paper! Oh, well.


--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, KPL <kpl.listes@...> wrote:

>
> I tried this some time ago, it did not work for me. That paper is just too
> slippery, toner does not stick good enough, it's not possible to handle it
> without bits of an image falling off.
> 
> On Sun, May 6, 2012 at 7:36 AM, AlienRelics <alienrelics@...> wrote:
> 
> > **
> >
> >
> > Yes, it has come up before.
> >
> > <
> > http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/msearch?query=silicone+paper&charset=windows-1252
> > >
> >
> > Using parchment baking paper and silicone coated paper from Laser label
> > backing.
> >
> > Some files under Toner Transfer:
> > <http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/files/Toner_Transfer/>
> >
> > Steve Greenfield AE7HD
> >
> >
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "tda7000" <Tda7000@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Just saw this online from Hackaday:
> > http://www.instructables.com/id/Toner-transfer-no-soak-high-quality-double-sided/
> > >
> > > Anyone else tried it?
> > >
> >
> >  
> >
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> KPL
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

I also tried this a long time ago and had the same problems with toner 
falling off.
I'd say it's like everything else in toner transfer: very dependent on 
brand of paper and brand of toner.

Andrew

On 10/05/12 7:15 AM, tda7000 wrote:
>
> After reading more about it, it does seem rather delicate. Perhaps 
> only the exact brand of paper he used works great, and the rest don't.
>
> Still, I don't think I am going to try it.
>
> I already get pretty nice results with the old magazine paper I've 
> been using (except for large solid fills, but that is the printer's 
> fault of course)
>
> I had just never heard of using the baking paper before and thought I 
> had (sort of) discovered some new and exciting type of paper! Oh, well.
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com 
> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>, KPL <kpl.listes@...> wrote:
> >
> > I tried this some time ago, it did not work for me. That paper is 
> just too
> > slippery, toner does not stick good enough, it's not possible to 
> handle it
> > without bits of an image falling off.
> >
> > On Sun, May 6, 2012 at 7:36 AM, AlienRelics <alienrelics@...> wrote:
> >
> > > **
> > >
> > >
> > > Yes, it has come up before.
> > >
> > > <
> > > 
> http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/msearch?query=silicone+paper&charset=windows-1252 
> <http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/msearch?query=silicone+paper&charset=windows-1252>
> > > >
> > >
> > > Using parchment baking paper and silicone coated paper from Laser 
> label
> > > backing.
> > >
> > > Some files under Toner Transfer:
> > > 
> <http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/files/Toner_Transfer/>
> > >
> > > Steve Greenfield AE7HD
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com 
> <mailto:Homebrew_PCBs%40yahoogroups.com>, "tda7000" <Tda7000@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Just saw this online from Hackaday:
> > > 
> http://www.instructables.com/id/Toner-transfer-no-soak-high-quality-double-sided/
> > > >
> > > > Anyone else tried it?
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > KPL
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

another very similar thing I have tried that did not work, was a base paper
of adhesive aluminium foil, from a building store. Same problem, toner just
falls off. But it seemed sooo good:)

On Thu, May 10, 2012 at 2:33 AM, Andrew Leech <coronasensei@...>wrote:

> **
>
>
> I also tried this a long time ago and had the same problems with toner
> falling off.
> I'd say it's like everything else in toner transfer: very dependent on
> brand of paper and brand of toner.
>
> Andrew
>
>
> On 10/05/12 7:15 AM, tda7000 wrote:
> >
> > After reading more about it, it does seem rather delicate. Perhaps
> > only the exact brand of paper he used works great, and the rest don't.
> >
> > Still, I don't think I am going to try it.
> >
> > I already get pretty nice results with the old magazine paper I've
> > been using (except for large solid fills, but that is the printer's
> > fault of course)
> >
> > I had just never heard of using the baking paper before and thought I
> > had (sort of) discovered some new and exciting type of paper! Oh, well.
> >
>

-- 
KPL


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Someone mentioned recently they were going to perform experiments using
screen printing emulsion as photoresist.  Are there any updates on the
discussion?  Are the experiments still pending?   

 

Jeff



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

On Sat, May 19, 2012 at 1:31 AM, Jeff Heiss <jeff.heiss@...> wrote:

> **
>
>
> Someone mentioned recently they were going to perform experiments using
> screen printing emulsion as photoresist. Are there any updates on the
> discussion? Are the experiments still pending?
>
> Jeff
>
>
That may have been me.  I have tried it and the results were not
encouraging or usable.  I used a premixed diazo-type emulsion and coated a
few boards with it.  It's very difficult to get an even, thin coating with
it because it is very thick, somewhat like old latex paint.  After drying I
found that it required a specific amount of scrubbing to remove the
unexposed areas and it was easy to exceed this.  What made it worse was
that there was no developer per se besides water used to dissolve it, so
there was no way of adjusting the strength of the "developer".  Finally,
the emulsion is rubbery after exposure and does not tend to stick very well
to a plain copper board that lacks the texture of fabric to bind with.
Fine details were out of the question because it didn't adhere well enough
and the stretchy, flexible nature of the emulsion made it impossible to
preserve anything but the largest of features.  It tended to peel off as it
softened under the flow of water.

The thing that makes the Riston-type photoresists so great is that they
stick extremely well to copper, are robust to start with, and become very
rigid where exposed and rinse off quickly where they are not.

Regards,
Larry


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]