Homebrew PCBs

Does anyone know if the Docuseal 95p at Staples will work for PCB's. 
Has anyone tried it?????? I am thinking of purchasing one however I 
would like to know if it is worth it.

Darrell,
      a thread just finished DIRECTLY before your's. Not months ago, 
nor weeks ago litteraly the posting before your's. Read the very 
first message that began that Thread. Give you a hint...It was from 
me.

For every one else....funny wouldn't you say? Here I am...research 
research research, read ,read read, do everything I can to find out 
info on a topic that interests me. For some....well...???
Sometimes I wish I wasn't a polite Englishman.


Cheers....Dean.


--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "dsv1486" 
<darrell.vandenberg@t...> wrote:
> Does anyone know if the Docuseal 95p at Staples will work for 
PCB's. 
> Has anyone tried it?????? I am thinking of purchasing one however I 
> would like to know if it is worth it.

Dean:
Appreciate the sarcasm, no really, however that is not the answer to 
the question. Has anyone gone out to staples, purchased the lam and 
tried a toner transfer. I have seen lots of stuff on the net about 
research, but little proof that can be validated. Have you done so????

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Dean Batute" <phix_it@y...> 
wrote:
> Darrell,
>       a thread just finished DIRECTLY before your's. Not months 
ago, 
> nor weeks ago litteraly the posting before your's. Read the very 
> first message that began that Thread. Give you a hint...It was from 
> me.
> 
> For every one else....funny wouldn't you say? Here I am...research 
> research research, read ,read read, do everything I can to find out 
> info on a topic that interests me. For some....well...???
> Sometimes I wish I wasn't a polite Englishman.
> 
> 
> Cheers....Dean.
> 
> 
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "dsv1486" 
> <darrell.vandenberg@t...> wrote:
> > Does anyone know if the Docuseal 95p at Staples will work for 
> PCB's. 
> > Has anyone tried it?????? I am thinking of purchasing one however 
I 
> > would like to know if it is worth it.

You know he has a point. After all, not all laminators are created
equal, and I don't recall this particular laminator being mentioned.

I know I have a very good GBC laminator with adjustable temp, about 3
or 4 years old, and after about 8 passes it still won't fully stick to
even one of those cardstock thin 1 oz doublesided boards.

Steve Greenfield

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "dsv1486"
<darrell.vandenberg@t...> wrote:

> Dean:
> Appreciate the sarcasm, no really, however that is not the answer to 
> the question. Has anyone gone out to staples, purchased the lam and 
> tried a toner transfer. I have seen lots of stuff on the net about 
> research, but little proof that can be validated. Have you done so????
> 
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Dean Batute" <phix_it@y...> 
> wrote:
> > Darrell,
> >       a thread just finished DIRECTLY before your's. Not months 
> ago, 
> > nor weeks ago litteraly the posting before your's. Read the very 
> > first message that began that Thread. Give you a hint...It was from 
> > me.
> > 
> > For every one else....funny wouldn't you say? Here I am...research 
> > research research, read ,read read, do everything I can to find out 
> > info on a topic that interests me. For some....well...???
> > Sometimes I wish I wasn't a polite Englishman.
> > 
> > 
> > Cheers....Dean.
> > 
> > 
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "dsv1486" 
> > <darrell.vandenberg@t...> wrote:
> > > Does anyone know if the Docuseal 95p at Staples will work for 
> > PCB's. 
> > > Has anyone tried it?????? I am thinking of purchasing one however 
> I 
> > > would like to know if it is worth it.

Ok so it is strangely silent on this topic. So I will let you know 
what I am doing. I purchased a laminator from a place in Chicago 
called big lots. A store that buys discontinued things and sells for 
a reduced rate, I paid 29.95 US. The specs said that the maximum 
temperature is 100 degrees Celsius. So I tried the process on a 
copper clad board with zero results. Discouraged I left it and tried 
the iron method. I cannot get the results that many have experienced. 
The traces are fat and jagged, there are voids etc…
So when the thread on the laminator unfolded I was prepared to buy 
one at Staples if someone had proven that it worked. As usual no one 
has just a lot of speculation research, which to me is useless unless 
results can be verified. So I proceeded to take the laminator apart, 
which I had purchased. It has bimetal thermostat connected to a one 
shot that tells you when it has reached operating temp. I placed a 
switch to short out the thermostat and let it warm up 10 minutes and 
tried a board with glossy paper (national geographic in case anyone 
wants to try the same and it is easy to get). I ran it though about 6 
times and placed it under water for about 5 minutes. I was surprised 
to see clear results however there were some parts that did not fuse 
to the copper so I determined that I need more heat. I placed the 
cover and let it warm up 20 minutes and found that the nylon gears 
melted on the rollers. So now I have to cast new gears and try again. 
So my question to ones that have successful laminators, what is the 
temperature that they operate at so that I can replicate the 
results????





--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Steve" <alienrelics@y...> 
wrote:
> You know he has a point. After all, not all laminators are created
> equal, and I don't recall this particular laminator being mentioned.
> 
> I know I have a very good GBC laminator with adjustable temp, about 
3
> or 4 years old, and after about 8 passes it still won't fully stick 
to
> even one of those cardstock thin 1 oz doublesided boards.
> 
> Steve Greenfield
> 
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "dsv1486"
> <darrell.vandenberg@t...> wrote:
> > Dean:
> > Appreciate the sarcasm, no really, however that is not the answer 
to 
> > the question. Has anyone gone out to staples, purchased the lam 
and 
> > tried a toner transfer. I have seen lots of stuff on the net 
about 
> > research, but little proof that can be validated. Have you done 
so????
> > 
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Dean Batute" 
<phix_it@y...> 
> > wrote:
> > > Darrell,
> > >       a thread just finished DIRECTLY before your's. Not months 
> > ago, 
> > > nor weeks ago litteraly the posting before your's. Read the 
very 
> > > first message that began that Thread. Give you a hint...It was 
from 
> > > me.
> > > 
> > > For every one else....funny wouldn't you say? Here I 
am...research 
> > > research research, read ,read read, do everything I can to find 
out 
> > > info on a topic that interests me. For some....well...???
> > > Sometimes I wish I wasn't a polite Englishman.
> > > 
> > > 
> > > Cheers....Dean.
> > > 
> > > 
> > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "dsv1486" 
> > > <darrell.vandenberg@t...> wrote:
> > > > Does anyone know if the Docuseal 95p at Staples will work for 
> > > PCB's. 
> > > > Has anyone tried it?????? I am thinking of purchasing one 
however 
> > I 
> > > > would like to know if it is worth it.

I Don't know the temp! BUT
The model I have I purchased through www.dynaart.com
it is a GBC Model 200
it ready to go in about 3 minutes !! NO kidding
I run my pcboard through it 2 to 3 times And I get Fantastic results.
I find the most important thing to do before running through laminator is
!CLEAN THE PCB!!!!
I use to use scotch bright pads but now I use fine emery paper about a 200
grit
sand lightly in a circular motion till all the pcb look shinny.
then take the scotch bright pad with soap and scrub a bit more !!
dry then attach you transfer..
do not put your fingers on the copper after cleaning.
BTH  I think I paid $159. for the laminator from dynaart
I could have purchased it at office max for about $20. less but I needed
other supplies and they told me that they had to modify one thing on the
laminator.
true ??? or not????
for $20. it wasn't worth the risk.
what frank at dynaart told me if you don't love it send it back.
so that sold me.
the laminator does come with some paper so this helps with the extra cost.
but I must say!!! I still haven't tried his transfer paper.
I do have it but!! I have quite a bit of the pressnpeel blue and it does
work great together.
regards
victor

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "dsv1486" <darrell.vandenberg@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 2003 2:06 PM
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: laminator


Ok so it is strangely silent on this topic. So I will let you know
what I am doing. I purchased a laminator from a place in Chicago
called big lots. A store that buys discontinued things and sells for
a reduced rate, I paid 29.95 US. The specs said that the maximum
temperature is 100 degrees Celsius. So I tried the process on a
copper clad board with zero results. Discouraged I left it and tried
the iron method. I cannot get the results that many have experienced.
The traces are fat and jagged, there are voids etc.
So when the thread on the laminator unfolded I was prepared to buy
one at Staples if someone had proven that it worked. As usual no one
has just a lot of speculation research, which to me is useless unless
results can be verified. So I proceeded to take the laminator apart,
which I had purchased. It has bimetal thermostat connected to a one
shot that tells you when it has reached operating temp. I placed a
switch to short out the thermostat and let it warm up 10 minutes and
tried a board with glossy paper (national geographic in case anyone
wants to try the same and it is easy to get). I ran it though about 6
times and placed it under water for about 5 minutes. I was surprised
to see clear results however there were some parts that did not fuse
to the copper so I determined that I need more heat. I placed the
cover and let it warm up 20 minutes and found that the nylon gears
melted on the rollers. So now I have to cast new gears and try again.
So my question to ones that have successful laminators, what is the
temperature that they operate at so that I can replicate the
results????





--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Steve" <alienrelics@y...>
wrote:
> You know he has a point. After all, not all laminators are created
> equal, and I don't recall this particular laminator being mentioned.
>
> I know I have a very good GBC laminator with adjustable temp, about
3
> or 4 years old, and after about 8 passes it still won't fully stick
to
> even one of those cardstock thin 1 oz doublesided boards.
>
> Steve Greenfield
>
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "dsv1486"
> <darrell.vandenberg@t...> wrote:
> > Dean:
> > Appreciate the sarcasm, no really, however that is not the answer
to
> > the question. Has anyone gone out to staples, purchased the lam
and
> > tried a toner transfer. I have seen lots of stuff on the net
about
> > research, but little proof that can be validated. Have you done
so????
> >
> > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Dean Batute"
<phix_it@y...>
> > wrote:
> > > Darrell,
> > >       a thread just finished DIRECTLY before your's. Not months
> > ago,
> > > nor weeks ago litteraly the posting before your's. Read the
very
> > > first message that began that Thread. Give you a hint...It was
from
> > > me.
> > >
> > > For every one else....funny wouldn't you say? Here I
am...research
> > > research research, read ,read read, do everything I can to find
out
> > > info on a topic that interests me. For some....well...???
> > > Sometimes I wish I wasn't a polite Englishman.
> > >
> > >
> > > Cheers....Dean.
> > >
> > >
> > > --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "dsv1486"
> > > <darrell.vandenberg@t...> wrote:
> > > > Does anyone know if the Docuseal 95p at Staples will work for
> > > PCB's.
> > > > Has anyone tried it?????? I am thinking of purchasing one
however
> > I
> > > > would like to know if it is worth it.



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I am converting a laminator and I have the temp adjusted, as well as the height of the roller module (so the PCB can clear the plastic at the entrance and exit. The design is two rollers that are not adjustable. When the device is cold it will run a board through without a single hiccup.... but once I turn the heat up to temp it struggles.... I usually have to help the board through. Any ideas?

Chris

On Sun, Dec 30, 2012 at 3:28 PM, matrice197 <hololight@...> wrote:
> but once I turn the heat up to temp it struggles.... I usually have to help
> the board through. Any ideas?

If you can make the gap a little larger, maybe feed through the PCB
together with a sheet of something springy which can absorb the
difference in gap?

Mitch.

When the laminator heats up the rollers expand decreasing the space between
them. Try running a bare board through first before the one you want to
transfer.

On Saturday, December 29, 2012, matrice197 <hololight@...> wrote:
>
>
> I am converting a laminator and I have the temp adjusted, as well as the
height of the roller module (so the PCB can clear the plastic at the
entrance and exit. The design is two rollers that are not adjustable. When
the device is cold it will run a board through without a single hiccup....
but once I turn the heat up to temp it struggles.... I usually have to help
the board through. Any ideas?
>
> Chris
>
> 

-- 
73 - Mark Schoonover - KA6WKE
http://www.ka6wke.net


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I know with my laminator, if its a thick pcb, when its running through I have to push the board up the end otherwise it will get caught

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 30, 2012, at 1:50 AM, Mark Schoonover <mark@...> wrote:

> When the laminator heats up the rollers expand decreasing the space between
> them. Try running a bare board through first before the one you want to
> transfer.
> 
> On Saturday, December 29, 2012, matrice197 <hololight@...> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> I am converting a laminator and I have the temp adjusted, as well as the
> height of the roller module (so the PCB can clear the plastic at the
> entrance and exit. The design is two rollers that are not adjustable. When
> the device is cold it will run a board through without a single hiccup....
> but once I turn the heat up to temp it struggles.... I usually have to help
> the board through. Any ideas?
>> 
>> Chris
> 
> -- 
> 73 - Mark Schoonover - KA6WKE
> http://www.ka6wke.net
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
>

If you open the unit up. You may be able to use a thin washer to raise one of the rollers where it is mounted.

From: Spencer W 
Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2012 3:49 AM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com 
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] laminator

  
I know with my laminator, if its a thick pcb, when its running through I have to push the board up the end otherwise it will get caught

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 30, 2012, at 1:50 AM, Mark Schoonover <mailto:mark%40ka6wke.net> wrote:

> When the laminator heats up the rollers expand decreasing the space between
> them. Try running a bare board through first before the one you want to
> transfer.
> 
> On Saturday, December 29, 2012, matrice197 <mailto:hololight%40gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> I am converting a laminator and I have the temp adjusted, as well as the
> height of the roller module (so the PCB can clear the plastic at the
> entrance and exit. The design is two rollers that are not adjustable. When
> the device is cold it will run a board through without a single hiccup....
> but once I turn the heat up to temp it struggles.... I usually have to help
> the board through. Any ideas?
>> 
>> Chris
> 
> -- 
> 73 - Mark Schoonover - KA6WKE
> http://www.ka6wke.net
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Links, Files, and Photos:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBsYahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]