Homebrew PCBs

OK, so I got interested and burned some google cycles...  forgive me 
if this is old stuff that goes nowhere.

It seems that inkjet printers use pretty standard water-based inks.  
They carry the pigment (called colorants) to paper.  These are 
particles in suspension.  While the formulations are some what 
special for viscosity and surface tension, they are pretty standard. 
So spraying down a non-water based ink is probably out but it does 
seem possible to lay down a water based ink pattern on copper.  The 
big issue is what happens once it hits the etch tank - the inks tend 
to run.

Now what if there was an additive/pigment that consisted of particles 
of a solid, water insoluable substance that had a melting point below 
the melting point of PCB substrate materials.  Then you could print 
the pattern and put it in the oven to cause the resist particles to 
melt and fuse.  Removal would be via a solvent.

Or, I know that there are water based polyurathane paints, I think 
that these cure to be reasonably water resistant and thus could form 
a resist.  It would have to be thinned a lot, of course.   There are 
also companies that makes the poly additive so it could just be added 
to a standard inkjet formulation.  There are solvents that clean this 
stuff up after it has dried/cured.

Finally, what about an ink that is a UV sensitive component (like the 
coatings of presensitized PCBs).  Print and expose to UV to cure.

Thoughts?


maybe that acetone is worse than I though... LOL

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Phil" <phil1960us@y...> wrote:
...
> Finally, what about an ink that is a UV sensitive component (like the 
> coatings of presensitized PCBs).  Print and expose to UV to cure.

There are brand new printers out that use UV cure ink. They are wide
format printers, though. Don't know how they'd work in a desktop
printer. Anyone work in a signshop and can beg or buy a few mL of ink
to try in an old Epson?

Problem is, most of the older desktop Epsons don't have a straight
through path. Of course, you can -try- it onto paper in a cheap Epson
400 or 600, and if it works then get a newer model, one that can print
on a CD will take something thick enough.

Steve

I'm heading to RE-PC this week, do you off hand know which, if any, 
epson models have a straight path?

also, I wonder if water based additives will survive the steam pop 
that drives the ink.  worth a try with my junker hp 697c.

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Steve" <alienrelics@y...> 
wrote:
> --- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Phil" <phil1960us@y...> 
wrote:
> ...
> > Finally, what about an ink that is a UV sensitive component (like 
the 
> > coatings of presensitized PCBs).  Print and expose to UV to cure.
> 
> There are brand new printers out that use UV cure ink. They are wide
> format printers, though. Don't know how they'd work in a desktop
> printer. Anyone work in a signshop and can beg or buy a few mL of 
ink
> to try in an old Epson?
> 
> Problem is, most of the older desktop Epsons don't have a straight
> through path. Of course, you can -try- it onto paper in a cheap 
Epson
> 400 or 600, and if it works then get a newer model, one that can 
print

> on a CD will take something thick enough.
> 
> Steve

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Phil" <phil1960us@y...> wrote:
> I'm heading to RE-PC this week, do you off hand know which, if any, 
> epson models have a straight path?

Sorry, you'll just have to look at the backs. Most of the older ones
do not. The 1520 does, as does the 3000, but both are rather expensive
wide printers.

The black only Epson 800 (not to be confused with the Stylus Color
800) has a removeable back that I thought could be modified to take a
board straight through.

> also, I wonder if water based additives will survive the steam pop 
> that drives the ink.  worth a try with my junker hp 697c.

What "water based additives" do you mean? Stefan already tried Future
Floor Polish (a plastic coating) in an HP and it terminally clogged.

Steve