Homebrew PCBs

I made a couple PCB's awhile ago using the decal method and never 
want to go through that again!. Well anyway, I have access at work 
to a film printer (work at a newspaper) and I can print negatives 
upto a size 11x17". I was wondering what do I need to take a blank 
double sided copper board and make it into a circuit board? Do I 
need a developer, light, etchant and resist solution and I am good 
to go? Could anyone also recommend a good company for these products?

Thanks!

>From: "Bob Weiss" <BWeiss@...>
>Reply-To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Question about developing a board
>Date: Fri, 01 Oct 2004 15:21:56 -0000
>
>I made a couple PCB's awhile ago using the decal method and never
>want to go through that again!. Well anyway, I have access at work
>to a film printer (work at a newspaper) and I can print negatives
>upto a size 11x17". I was wondering what do I need to take a blank
>double sided copper board and make it into a circuit board? Do I
>need a developer, light, etchant and resist solution and I am good
>to go? Could anyone also recommend a good company for these products?

I use NaOH solution for developing (very cheap) and a UV exposure unit I 
built myself, with pre-coated boards (positive-working resist). 
Negative-working resist boards are difficult to find, you'd be better off 
making positives. The PCB manufacturers use negative-working resist as it 
gives better definition, but it's not really suitable for home use.

If you want to buy everyting you need off-the-shelf, try Mega Electronics 
(UK).

Leon

Leon

If you are buying board from Mega then I would recommend their Microtrak 
board rather than the Fotoboard. It is the same price but it seems to be 
more tolerant to over/under exposure and it seems to give better 
definition. The only down side is that it takes over twice as long to 
expose. You also need stronger developer.

Les

Leon Heller wrote:

> 
> 
> I use NaOH solution for developing (very cheap) and a UV exposure unit I 
> built myself, with pre-coated boards (positive-working resist). 
> Negative-working resist boards are difficult to find, you'd be better off 
> making positives. The PCB manufacturers use negative-working resist as it 
> gives better definition, but it's not really suitable for home use.
> 
> If you want to buy everyting you need off-the-shelf, try Mega Electronics 
> (UK).
> 
> Leon
> 
> Leon
> 
>

From: Bob Weiss [mailto:BWeiss@...] 

> I made a couple PCB's awhile ago using the decal method and never 
> want to go through that again!. Well anyway, I have access at work 
> to a film printer (work at a newspaper) and I can print negatives 
> upto a size 11x17".

Those negatives should work great.

> I was wondering what do I need to take a blank 
> double sided copper board and make it into a circuit board? Do I 
> need a developer, light, etchant and resist solution and I am good 
> to go? Could anyone also recommend a good company for these products?

If you are in a reasonable sized city, you can get presensitized PCB
material, developer and etchant from an electronics parts store.

Whatever you use to expose the aluminum sheets used for newspaper
printing will probably work very well for exposing the presensitized
PCBs.  Follow the instructions (maybe inside the package) for the PCB
material and do a few test runs to get the exposure/develop/etch times
right.

Have fun!
- Jan

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Bob Weiss" <BWeiss@p...> wrote:
> I made a couple PCB's awhile ago using the decal method and never 
> want to go through that again!. Well anyway, I have access at work 
> to a film printer (work at a newspaper) and I can print negatives 
> upto a size 11x17". I was wondering what do I need to take a blank 
> double sided copper board and make it into a circuit board? Do I 
> need a developer, light, etchant and resist solution and I am good 
> to go? Could anyone also recommend a good company for these 
products?
> 
> Thanks!


I think the Decal method is really slow if you are taling about the 
self stick traces and pads.

Toner transfer is the best cheap way to make boards.

The photoresist is more costly for the stock boards, but if you can 
develop, then great.

I remember a guy on here who was makeing pre-sensitized boards for a 
decent price.

Maybe you'll get a direct e-mail from him ?

I've never done the photoresist so can't comment on the ease.

Dave