Homebrew PCBs

-------------------------------------

Everyone,

I have finally found a GREAT way to remove the "Staples Picture Paper" paper-residue from a pcboard, after doing the toner transfer step!

Now I just hope that I can identify what this material IS, that works so well.

I am using a type of handmade kitchen scrubbing pad, purchased a long time ago through one of my old software customers, which was made by a blind woman whom my customer knew.

At the time it was purchased, my wife was still alive.  So she is actually the one who purchased these.  However, I was present and did hear my customer and my wife talking about them.  And I DO remember that they said that they were either MADE OF something called "Crinolin", or, were made of something LIKE something called Crinolin.  And I am not sure of the spelling of the word "Crinolin".   I also SEEM to recall hearing them say something about how crinolin might have been the material (or LIKE the material) that was used to make womens' old-fashioned petticoats!

It appears to be a very-loosely-woven, somewhat-rough, slightly-stiff type of fabric. In my case, the stuff used to make the scrubbing pad may even have been shaped more like yarn, as if it came on a roll instead of in a sheet, and was then just "woven" and/or knitted (or something) into the shape of a scrubbing pad.

But, anyway:  This thing works GREAT!!!!  Once the top layers of paper have been removed, I can use this pad to COMPLETELY clean off a 4" x 6" board in about 30 seconds, INCLUDING all of the drill holes and small spaces, with very little EFFORT!!  

I had gotten very proficient at using a toothbrush, for this step.  And this pad does the job in much less than 1/10th the time, with much less than 1/10th the effort.

Notes:

The material does feel slightly abrasive. HOWEVER, I could NOT get it to scratch the copper, even when pressing fairly hard.

I will email my old customer, to verify with her what the pad is actually made from.  If I find out anything more than "crinolin", I will post it, here.

Good luck!

Regards,

Tom Gootee

http://www.fullnet.com/u/tomg

-------------------------------------


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

On Monday 27 December 2004 08:48 pm, Thomas P. Gootee wrote:
> -------------------------------------
>
> Everyone,
>
> I have finally found a GREAT way to remove the "Staples Picture Paper"
> paper-residue from a pcboard, after doing the toner transfer step!
>
> Now I just hope that I can identify what this material IS, that works so
> well.
>
> I am using a type of handmade kitchen scrubbing pad, purchased a long time
> ago through one of my old software customers, which was made by a blind
> woman whom my customer knew.
>
> At the time it was purchased, my wife was still alive.  So she is actually
> the one who purchased these.  However, I was present and did hear my
> customer and my wife talking about them.  And I DO remember that they said
> that they were either MADE OF something called "Crinolin", or, were made of
> something LIKE something called Crinolin.  And I am not sure of the
> spelling of the word "Crinolin".   I also SEEM to recall hearing them say
> something about how crinolin might have been the material (or LIKE the
> material) that was used to make womens' old-fashioned petticoats!
>
> It appears to be a very-loosely-woven, somewhat-rough, slightly-stiff type
> of fabric. In my case, the stuff used to make the scrubbing pad may even
> have been shaped more like yarn, as if it came on a roll instead of in a
> sheet, and was then just "woven" and/or knitted (or something) into the
> shape of a scrubbing pad.
>
> But, anyway:  This thing works GREAT!!!!  Once the top layers of paper have
> been removed, I can use this pad to COMPLETELY clean off a 4" x 6" board in
> about 30 seconds, INCLUDING all of the drill holes and small spaces, with
> very little EFFORT!!
>
> I had gotten very proficient at using a toothbrush, for this step.  And
> this pad does the job in much less than 1/10th the time, with much less
> than 1/10th the effort.
>
> Notes:
>
> The material does feel slightly abrasive. HOWEVER, I could NOT get it to
> scratch the copper, even when pressing fairly hard.
>
> I will email my old customer, to verify with her what the pad is actually
> made from.  If I find out anything more than "crinolin", I will post it,
> here.
>
> Good luck!
>
> Regards,
>
> Tom Gootee
>
> http://www.fullnet.com/u/tomg

I mentioned this to my other half,  along with filling in some of the 
background on what all you guys were trying to do,  and she said,  if you 
want to find some of that material,  just go to any "retro" clothing store-- 
that they oughta be able to fix you right up.  She also said something about 
"transfer paper" being available at the majorly large craft stores 
("Michael's" being one around here),  I dunno if that has been considered or 
not,  though she did say it was expensive.

Hope this helps...

Roy J. Tellason wrote:
> that they oughta be able to fix you right up.  She also said something about 
> "transfer paper" being available at the majorly large craft stores 
> ("Michael's" being one around here),  I dunno if that has been considered or 
> not,  though she did say it was expensive.
> 


   Likely the kind of thing that will sound right to your wife but be way off 
for using..

   Cut out vinyl letters.  Peel away the scrap.  Loose letters on backing.  How 
to get them to where you want them to go and keep the spacing?  Transfer paper, 
paper with moderate stick on one side.  Put it on letters, peel it and letters 
from backing, apply letters to surface, then peel transfer paper back off 
letters.  Just holds the spacing.  Moderate stick paper but I don't think it'd 
work for getting out of holes etc.  Could be something else for some other 
manner of transfer and more suitable, but this is the usual type.


   As always, just do as I do and fuse several times when printing before the 
ironing.  Peels away cleanly after ironing that way, hardly had to do any 
toothbrushing for a long time now.  I'm using JetPrint Photo, but I assume 
they'll all work about the same.  Dry that coating out more thoroughly before 
you iron and it won't stick much where there isn't toner in the first place. 
Still haven't bothered baking after printing though for a proper drying, a 
couple extra fusing passes does it well enough.

Alan

------------------------------------

Alan,

Actually, the different paper types all work DIFFERENTLY, that way.

i.e. The JetPrint Photo Multiproject paper is ALWAYS that easy to remove, for me.  But the Staples Picture Paper is definitely NOT easy to remove (until now!).

I have to use the Staples Picture Paper, instead of the much-easier-to-remove JetPrint paper, because, with my printer/toner combination (HP LJ4/HP toner), the Jetprint paper usually gets lots of pinholes in the large (and also often in the small) areas of toner, no matter what printer settings I use.

I will try the "multiple fusings" procedure again, with more than two passes this time, to see if that helps significantly, with my setup and the Staples paper.

Regards,

Tom Gootee

http://www.fullnet.com/u/tomg

-----------------------------------

ORIGINAL MESSAGE:

-----------------------------------
      
   Date: Tue, 28 Dec 2004 01:04:42 -0500

   From: Alan King <alan@...>
Subject: Re: Found a GREAT way to remove the paper residue, after toner transfer!

<snipped>

   As always, just do as I do and fuse several times when printing before the 
ironing.  Peels away cleanly after ironing that way, hardly had to do any 
toothbrushing for a long time now.  I'm using JetPrint Photo, but I assume 
they'll all work about the same.  Dry that coating out more thoroughly before 
you iron and it won't stick much where there isn't toner in the first place. 
Still haven't bothered baking after printing though for a proper drying, a 
couple extra fusing passes does it well enough.

Alan



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

a while back i discovered 'THE BEST" way to remove the papaer residue

**Ammonia based windows cleaner**

also, before you do the iron on, clean the board with window cleaner -
works much better then meths, and unlike steel wool, doesn't take any
of the copper of with it

anyhoo... after ironing, take a blade from a craft knife and seperate
the backing of the paper from the coated side. it's very easy - the
coated side is stuck down firm and the paper back isn't. peel it all
off with the blade. now then, normally you'd think to soak the
remaining paper off with hot water for 20mins or whatever - don't
bother! spray the board with window cleaner making sure it soaks in
properly - which it will do much better and faster (re:instantly) then
water does. now then, no waiting around, no soaking for minutes,
simply rub the paper off! use a sponge, a dish brush, your finger,
anything! it'll come off easier then you could have imagined

hope this helps you all
cheers
iR
--------------------------
http://oc4free.scalded.net
--------------------------

Well, Paul simon spells it Crinoline... <G>

FOR EMILY, WHEREVER I MAY FIND HER
PAUL SIMON

What a dream I had, pressed in organdy
Clothed in crinoline of smokey burgandy
Softer than the rain

I wanderd empty streets, down past the shop display
I heard cathedral bells, tripping down the alley-way
As I walked on

And when you ran to me, your checks flushed with the night
We walked on frosted fields of juniper and lamplight
I held your hand

(instrumental)

And when I awoke and felt your warm and near
I kissed your honey hair, with my grateful tears
Oh I love you girl

Oh how I love you girl


--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Thomas P. Gootee" <tomg@f...> 
wrote:
> 
> -------------------------------------
> 
> Everyone,
> 
> I have finally found a GREAT way to remove the "Staples Picture 
Paper" paper-residue from a pcboard, after doing the toner transfer 
step!
> 
> Now I just hope that I can identify what this material IS, that 
works so well.
> 
> I am using a type of handmade kitchen scrubbing pad, purchased a 
long time ago through one of my old software customers, which was 
made by a blind woman whom my customer knew.
> 
> At the time it was purchased, my wife was still alive.  So she is 
actually the one who purchased these.  However, I was present and did 
hear my customer and my wife talking about them.  And I DO remember 
that they said that they were either MADE OF something 
called "Crinolin", or, were made of something LIKE something called 
Crinolin.  And I am not sure of the spelling of the 
word "Crinolin".   I also SEEM to recall hearing them say something 
about how crinolin might have been the material (or LIKE the 
material) that was used to make womens' old-fashioned petticoats!
> 
> It appears to be a very-loosely-woven, somewhat-rough, slightly-
stiff type of fabric. In my case, the stuff used to make the 
scrubbing pad may even have been shaped more like yarn, as if it came 
on a roll instead of in a sheet, and was then just "woven" and/or 
knitted (or something) into the shape of a scrubbing pad.
> 
> But, anyway:  This thing works GREAT!!!!  Once the top layers of 
paper have been removed, I can use this pad to COMPLETELY clean off a 
4" x 6" board in about 30 seconds, INCLUDING all of the drill holes 
and small spaces, with very little EFFORT!!  
> 
> I had gotten very proficient at using a toothbrush, for this step.  
And this pad does the job in much less than 1/10th the time, with 
much less than 1/10th the effort.
> 
> Notes:
> 
> The material does feel slightly abrasive. HOWEVER, I could NOT get 
it to scratch the copper, even when pressing fairly hard.
> 
> I will email my old customer, to verify with her what the pad is 
actually made from.  If I find out anything more than "crinolin", I 
will post it, here.

> 
> Good luck!
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Tom Gootee
> 
> http://www.fullnet.com/u/tomg
> 
> -------------------------------------
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi iR

What kind of paper are you using that this process removes the paper.

Iam new to the group and my first board didn't work so well.

Iam using a Lazer4L printer and normal 80g paper. I ironed it onto the
board and the image did transfer, but it wasn't very clear and after
etching the tracks were not of equal size.

Iam doing things correctly???

Thanks
Gary
ZR2G

-----Original Message-----
From: iR [mailto:irmadman@...]
Sent: Tuesday, December 28, 2004 11:44 PM
To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Found a GREAT way to remove the paper
residue, after toner transfer!


a while back i discovered 'THE BEST" way to remove the papaer residue

**Ammonia based windows cleaner**

also, before you do the iron on, clean the board with window cleaner -
works much better then meths, and unlike steel wool, doesn't take any
of the copper of with it

anyhoo... after ironing, take a blade from a craft knife and seperate
the backing of the paper from the coated side. it's very easy - the
coated side is stuck down firm and the paper back isn't. peel it all
off with the blade. now then, normally you'd think to soak the
remaining paper off with hot water for 20mins or whatever - don't
bother! spray the board with window cleaner making sure it soaks in
properly - which it will do much better and faster (re:instantly) then
water does. now then, no waiting around, no soaking for minutes,
simply rub the paper off! use a sponge, a dish brush, your finger,
anything! it'll come off easier then you could have imagined

hope this helps you all
cheers
iR
--------------------------
http://oc4free.scalded.net
--------------------------







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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

iR,

Thanks for the suggestion!!  I will definitely try it, with the next board I make, with the Staples Picture Paper.

By the way: I have started using a lot more pressure, when I iron the toner on, using mainly just the tip of the iron, after preheating the board.  And now I find that I don't have to soak the board for more than about one minute.  I usually run cold water onto the board for about half a minute or less, to cool it, initially, and then hot water for about one minute, after which I can peel all of the top layers of paper off using my thumbs and fingers, very quickly. Then I re-wet the remaining layer with hot water for a few seconds and use the crinoline pad to remove it, which takes something like half a minute for a 4" x 6" board.

Tom Gootee

http://www.fullnet.com/u/tomg

=======ORIGINAL MESSAGE:

 Date: Tue, 28 Dec 2004 21:44:06 -0000

   From: "iR" <irmadman@...>
Subject: Re: Found a GREAT way to remove the paper residue, after toner transfer!


a while back i discovered 'THE BEST" way to remove the papaer residue

**Ammonia based windows cleaner**

also, before you do the iron on, clean the board with window cleaner -
works much better then meths, and unlike steel wool, doesn't take any
of the copper of with it

anyhoo... after ironing, take a blade from a craft knife and seperate
the backing of the paper from the coated side. it's very easy - the
coated side is stuck down firm and the paper back isn't. peel it all
off with the blade. now then, normally you'd think to soak the
remaining paper off with hot water for 20mins or whatever - don't
bother! spray the board with window cleaner making sure it soaks in
properly - which it will do much better and faster (re:instantly) then
water does. now then, no waiting around, no soaking for minutes,
simply rub the paper off! use a sponge, a dish brush, your finger,
anything! it'll come off easier then you could have imagined

hope this helps you all
cheers
iR
--------------------------
http://oc4free.scalded.net
--------------------------



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Gary Anderson (G) wrote:

>
>Hi iR
>
>What kind of paper are you using that this process removes the paper.
>
>Iam new to the group and my first board didn't work so well.
>
>Iam using a Lazer4L printer and normal 80g paper. I ironed it onto the
>board and the image did transfer, but it wasn't very clear and after
>etching the tracks were not of equal size.
>
>Iam doing things correctly???
>  
>

No, ordinary bond paper isn't suitable. You need 'shiny' paper like that 
used for glossy magazines, which is coated with clay, or ink jet paper. 
Glossy magazine paper works very well, BTW.

Leon


-- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.298 / Virus Database: 265.6.5 - Release Date: 26/12/2004

Thomas P. Gootee wrote:
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
> Alan,
> 
> Actually, the different paper types all work DIFFERENTLY, that way.
> 
> i.e. The JetPrint Photo Multiproject paper is ALWAYS that easy to remove, for
> me.  But the Staples Picture Paper is definitely NOT easy to remove (until
> now!).
> 

   Well the JetPrint does work very well even without multiple fusings with your 
webpages normal method, I did neglect to fill in that I have also modified other 
things.  I'm generally too impatient to see the outcome to allow it to soak 
well, so I changed other aspects to not need soak time.  In that case, even 
JetPrint leaves an annoying level of junk in parallel traces, TSOP pads, small 
holes, etc.  The extra fusings make it work great even without much soaking, I 
have my boards in etch within 5-10 minutes of printing and etched and starting 
soldering with 45 mins to an hour.  Even at that a bit longer soaking does make 
it a little easier, but almost always I just get too annoyed to wait.


> I have to use the Staples Picture Paper, instead of the much-easier-to-remove
> JetPrint paper, because, with my printer/toner combination (HP LJ4/HP toner),
> the Jetprint paper usually gets lots of pinholes in the large (and also often
> in the small) areas of toner, no matter what printer settings I use.

   Might want to keep an eye out for a HP 6L.  I've had great results with mine, 
the toner is different and seems generally easier to deal with than the LJ4 test 
prints I've done.  Can't really recall any pinholes, but as long as the board 
comes out usable with SMT with sharp trace edges I haven't searched too 
critically, so may have had one here or there.  Also to make sure we're 
comparing apples to apples, I'm using the Graphic Image Paper that has lees 
chance of pinholes but leaves more junk on the board not the Multi Project that 
has more chance of pinholes but leaves less on peel.  Just the GIP leaves almost 
nothing as well with multiple fusings, even with no soaking..

> 
> I will try the "multiple fusings" procedure again, with more than two passes
> this time, to see if that helps significantly, with my setup and the Staples
> paper.
> 

   I really just went to 3-4 fuses once I had the idea to do an extra just to 
make sure, may not be any improvement over 2 just takes little effort for 
another extra pass or two.  Again even that may not matter with a reasonable 
soak, I iron, run cold water for a min or two while forcing into the paper with 
my thumbs, and then start peeling.  Too damn impatient I know but it is working 
well enough for TSOP level parts for me.  Also seems to make the ironing phase 
less critical.  Caveat that my boards do tend to be 4"x3" or less and SMT, few 
large areas etc, so larger boards would likely take a bit more care even with 
what I'm doing.  But mine are relatively complex for the size with usually lots 
of traces in tight spacing, so a pretty good test of what's happening.

   Still haven't tried the Staples myself since I have plenty of JPP on hand and 
Staples is 30 miles away.  But from the general reports of a little more 
sticking I'd guess it has a higher moisture content in the coating to start, 
just a basic guess but the extra fusings should have an even greater improvement 
for it, so worth testing.

"Crinoline" is an undergarment. "Crinolin" is a material, correctly described below, used to give shape to the attenunated crinolines that were the rage in the late 1950s.
 
Sam, who was old enuff to appreciate them and who is still young enuff to treasure the memory :-) 

ballendo <ballendo@...> wrote:

Well, Paul simon spells it Crinoline... <G>

FOR EMILY, WHEREVER I MAY FIND HER
PAUL SIMON

What a dream I had, pressed in organdy
Clothed in crinoline of smokey burgandy
Softer than the rain

I wanderd empty streets, down past the shop display
I heard cathedral bells, tripping down the alley-way
As I walked on

And when you ran to me, your checks flushed with the night
We walked on frosted fields of juniper and lamplight
I held your hand

(instrumental)

And when I awoke and felt your warm and near
I kissed your honey hair, with my grateful tears
Oh I love you girl

Oh how I love you girl


--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Thomas P. Gootee" <tomg@f...> 
wrote:
> 
> -------------------------------------
> 
> Everyone,
> 
> I have finally found a GREAT way to remove the "Staples Picture 
Paper" paper-residue from a pcboard, after doing the toner transfer 
step!
> 
> Now I just hope that I can identify what this material IS, that 
works so well.
> 
> I am using a type of handmade kitchen scrubbing pad, purchased a 
long time ago through one of my old software customers, which was 
made by a blind woman whom my customer knew.
> 
> At the time it was purchased, my wife was still alive.  So she is 
actually the one who purchased these.  However, I was present and did 
hear my customer and my wife talking about them.  And I DO remember 
that they said that they were either MADE OF something 
called "Crinolin", or, were made of something LIKE something called 
Crinolin.  And I am not sure of the spelling of the 
word "Crinolin".   I also SEEM to recall hearing them say something 
about how crinolin might have been the material (or LIKE the 
material) that was used to make womens' old-fashioned petticoats!
> 
> It appears to be a very-loosely-woven, somewhat-rough, slightly-
stiff type of fabric. In my case, the stuff used to make the 
scrubbing pad may even have been shaped more like yarn, as if it came 
on a roll instead of in a sheet, and was then just "woven" and/or 
knitted (or something) into the shape of a scrubbing pad.
> 
> But, anyway:  This thing works GREAT!!!!  Once the top layers of 
paper have been removed, I can use this pad to COMPLETELY clean off a 
4" x 6" board in about 30 seconds, INCLUDING all of the drill holes 
and small spaces, with very little EFFORT!!  
> 
> I had gotten very proficient at using a toothbrush, for this step.  
And this pad does the job in much less than 1/10th the time, with 
much less than 1/10th the effort.
> 
> Notes:
> 
> The material does feel slightly abrasive. HOWEVER, I could NOT get 
it to scratch the copper, even when pressing fairly hard.
> 
> I will email my old customer, to verify with her what the pad is 
actually made from.  If I find out anything more than "crinolin", I 
will post it, here.
> 
> Good luck!
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Tom Gootee
> 
> http://www.fullnet.com/u/tomg
> 
> -------------------------------------
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Some time ago, I tried the blue "press-n-peel" transfer system with 
limited success. Their press was also purchased and I think that was a 
good idea. Just lately, more press-n-peel was ordered but it looks 
thin, the coating was light and streaky and the hp-1300 printer must 
have liked it a lot because it just ate this new stuff. I sent the rest 
of it back.
	Taking the advice of some members of this forum, a local printer gave 
me some magazine paper. It's glossy on both sides, takes toner well and 
comes off afterwards. He also said that ink-jet paper had a pitted 
surface that takes ink in small puddles but will put small holes in 
toner. Could be.
	One of the first problems that I ran across with this paper was a 
close but not exact alignment between the top and bottom sheets on a 
light table. They should align exactly since they came from the same 
drawing, just different layers. I use Canvas 9.
Next came time and temperature in the press:
At 350 degrees and 45 seconds, toner runs like water. HOT = wavy edges 
to lines.
It had slightly better line definition, i.e. straighter edges to the 
lines, at 250 degrees for 5 minutes. It got even better at 200 degrees 
for 5 minutes. Next, I'll try a lower temperature but there're no 
markings on the press below 200 degrees. I put a piece of thin double 
sided PC board in the press to act as a bottom plate. The work is put 
between this and the press's hot plate. So far, no differences have 
shown up between the (work) PC board's two sides.
	Toner transfer here (200) was virtually complete. Some holes appeared 
but that's more likely due to board cleaning faults. Thanks for the tip 
on using a rag instead of paper towels too! I'm getting closer but we 
all seem to know that we won't get the best results until we've seen 
every possible fault first.
	Please keep posting. Even a one liner can save hours of otherwise 
wasted time.
Thanks to all,
TM

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Gary Anderson \(G\)"
<andersg@t...> wrote:
> 
> 
i'm using "HP Everyday Semi-gloss photo paper"

it's nice and cheap at $14NZD (~$10USD?) for 100 A4 sheets. i'd assume
full gloss paper works too but haven't tried it as this stuff is fine

cheers
iR

> Hi iR
> 
> What kind of paper are you using that this process removes the paper.
> 
> Iam new to the group and my first board didn't work so well.
> 
> Iam using a Lazer4L printer and normal 80g paper. I ironed it onto the
> board and the image did transfer, but it wasn't very clear and after
> etching the tracks were not of equal size.
> 
> Iam doing things correctly???
> 
> Thanks
> Gary
> ZR2G
> 
> 
> -----Original
 Message-----

> From: iR [mailto:irmadman@h...]
> Sent: Tuesday, December 28, 2004 11:44 PM
> To: Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Found a GREAT way to remove the paper
> residue, after toner transfer!
> 
> 
> a while back i discovered 'THE BEST" way to remove the papaer residue
> 
> **Ammonia based windows cleaner**
> 
> also, before you do the iron on, clean the board with window cleaner -
> works much better then meths, and unlike steel wool, doesn't take any
> of the copper of with it
> 
> anyhoo... after ironing, take a blade from a craft knife and seperate
> the backing of the paper from the coated side. it's very easy - the
> coated side is stuck down firm and the paper back isn't. peel it all
> off with the blade. now then, normally you'd think to soak the
> remaining paper off with hot water for 20mins or whatever - don't
> bother! spray the board with window cleaner making sure it soaks in
> properly - which it will do much better and faster (re:instantly) then
> water does. now then, no waiting around, no soaking for minutes,
> simply rub the paper off! use a sponge, a dish brush, your finger,
> anything! it'll come off easier then you could have imagined
> 
> hope this helps you all
> cheers
> iR
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--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, Terry Mickelson <tmdslca@t...> 
wrote:
> 
> 	Some time ago, I tried the blue "press-n-peel" transfer 
system with 
> limited success. Their press was also purchased and I think that 
was a 
> good idea. Just lately, more press-n-peel was ordered but it looks 
> thin, the coating was light and streaky and the hp-1300 printer 
must 
> have liked it a lot because it just ate this new stuff. I sent the 
rest 
> of it back.
> 	Taking the advice of some members of this forum, a local 
printer gave 
> me some magazine paper. It's glossy on both sides, takes toner 
well and 
> comes off afterwards. He also said that ink-jet paper had a pitted 
> surface that takes ink in small puddles but will put small holes 
in 
> toner. Could be.
> 	One of the first problems that I ran across with this paper 
was a 
> close but not exact alignment between the top and bottom sheets on 
a 
> light table. They should align exactly since they came from the 
same 
> drawing, just different layers. I use Canvas 9.

No, just because one is mirrored. Some printers alter the drawing 
scale even it shoudn't. My best results were on Xerox authoadesive
paper, where the paper itself was removed and the toner was 
transferred on the glossy face.

I suggest to keep the temperature as high as possible and put a few 
papers between your iron and the shit to be transferred.

best regards,
Vasile
http://surducan.netfirms.com

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Vasile Surducan" <vasile@s...>
wrote:
> 
...
> No, just because one is mirrored. Some printers alter the drawing 
> scale even it shoudn't. My best results were on Xerox authoadesive
> paper, where the paper itself was removed and the toner was 
> transferred on the glossy face.
> 

Note also that moisture content of the transfer substrate (i.e. paper)
is a factor here.  I've been running the paper through the
printer/copier several times to dry it out before actual printing. 
Seems to reduce distortions.

Phil