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Making PCBs - The other tasks

Making PCBs - The other tasks

2005-04-23 by Kev Pearce (kevp.com)

Hi all,

I've been making homebrew PCBs for a while using the blue Press-and-Peel and getting good results.

I was wondering if anyone could help with tips on the others tasks in making PCBs:
[ And changing the subject away from Toner Transfer!!! ;-) ]

1). Cutting boards
Does anyone know of a suitable mini saw table/inverted router type setup to accurately cut PCBs to size?
I know Dremel do a few add-ons for their hand held drills, but are they any good?
Is there any other kind of hobby/craft mini-saw table that could do a nice job of cutting PCBs?

2). Drilling
I can't really see any other way than a Dremel by hand...

3). Silkscreen Top Component Layer
Anyone know of any inkjet ink/paper/system that can be ironed on to the top surface of a board to give component locations/orientations etc. Any a nice cheap home solution? Does have to last forever just so the boards can be assembled with less faults ;-) I though about doing double sided boards and using the top copper side purely as a layout layer without any connection tracks at all.

4). Solder Masks
Like the silkscreen at no 3) any kind of inkjet ink/paper setup that will iron on solder masks?


Any ideas, input gratefully received.


Cheers all

Kev/.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Making PCBs - The other tasks

2005-04-23 by Stefan Trethan

On Sat, 23 Apr 2005 20:47:58 +0100, Kev Pearce (kevp.com)  
<email.me@...> wrote:

>
> 1). Cutting boards
> Does anyone know of a suitable mini saw table/inverted router type setup  
> to accurately cut PCBs to size?
> I know Dremel do a few add-ons for their hand held drills, but are they  
> any good?
> Is there any other kind of hobby/craft mini-saw table that could do a  
> nice job of cutting PCBs?


Sheet metal shears/scissors. Either handheld or the bench variety, all  
works well.
Tile saws are said to work too, are cheap (30eur) and run in water bath  
(dust).
A small table saw with a carbide blade makes very nice cuts, but IMO is  
too loud and messy.
Strong paper cutters.

> 2). Drilling
> I can't really see any other way than a Dremel by hand...

CNC.

> 3). Silkscreen Top Component Layer
> Anyone know of any inkjet ink/paper/system that can be ironed on to the  
> top surface of a board to give component locations/orientations etc. Any  
> a nice
> cheap home solution? Does have to last forever just so the boards can be  
> assembled with less faults  I though about doing double sided boards and
> using the top copper side purely as a layout layer without any  
> connection tracks at all.

Why not simply toner transfer without any copper there?
I do it regularly and it looks very good. It also works to put legend over  
artwok, but it is tricky because the raised copper areas....

> 4). Solder Masks
> Like the silkscreen at no 3) any kind of inkjet ink/paper setup that  
> will iron on solder masks?

Only one i know is photoprocess laminate. seems expensive and i'm not  
gonna go back to photo any time soon. I don't need mask.

ST

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Making PCBs - The other tasks

2005-04-23 by JanRwl@AOL.COM

In a message dated 4/23/2005 2:48:58 P.M. Central Daylight Time,  
email.me@... writes:

And  changing the subject away from Toner Transfer!!! ;-) ]

1). Cutting  boards
Does anyone know of a suitable mini saw table/inverted router type  setup to 
accurately cut PCBs to size?<<
There are small "table saws" with 5 or 5½" blades available.  Not much  good, 
but would do for PCB work, but ONLY if you use a carbide-tipped  blade.  The 
more teeth the better.  

I know  Dremel do a few add-ons for their hand held drills, but are they any  
good?<<
Simple, accurate answer:  NO.

Is there  any other kind of hobby/craft mini-saw table that could do a nice 
job of  cutting PCBs?<<
And cutting of FR-4 with a NON-carbide blade (i.e., plain HSS) won't do  more 
than one little board before it's "gone" and needs resharpening.  I  have 
used a disk-sander to "clean up" a board with nuppered edges or  slightly-large 
dims.

2).  Drilling
I can't really see any other way than a Dremel by  hand...<<
Then you obviously haven't SEEN much!  You will NEVER drill PCB holes  with 
proper solid-carbide PCB drills with a Dremel.  Even with their "drill  press 
stand" thing, there's little chance!  
 
You MUST use a proper and accurate drill-press.  If you can find one  of the 
little versions at HF (better:  Enco, though not much!) with no  runout (15% 
chance?) that may do if you can hold the board steady on the  table.  


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: Making PCBs - The other tasks

2005-04-24 by retired0

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, JanRwl@A... wrote:
> In a message dated 4/23/2005 2:48:58 P.M. Central Daylight Time,  
> email.me@k... writes:
> 
> And  changing the subject away from Toner Transfer!!! ;-) ]
> 
> 1). Cutting  boards
> Does anyone know of a suitable mini saw table/inverted router type 
setup to 
> accurately cut PCBs to size?<<
> There are small "table saws" with 5 or 5½" blades available.  Not
much  good, 
> but would do for PCB work, but ONLY if you use a carbide-tipped 
blade.  The 
> more teeth the better.  
> 
> I know  Dremel do a few add-ons for their hand held drills, but are
they any  
> good?<<
> Simple, accurate answer:  NO.
> 
> Is there  any other kind of hobby/craft mini-saw table that could do
a nice 
> job of  cutting PCBs?<<
> And cutting of FR-4 with a NON-carbide blade (i.e., plain HSS) won't
do  more 
> than one little board before it's "gone" and needs resharpening.  I
 have 
> used a disk-sander to "clean up" a board with nuppered edges or 
slightly-large 
> dims.
> 
> 2).  Drilling
> I can't really see any other way than a Dremel by  hand...<<
> Then you obviously haven't SEEN much!  You will NEVER drill PCB
holes  with 
> proper solid-carbide PCB drills with a Dremel.  Even with their
"drill  press 
> stand" thing, there's little chance!  

For small boards that will fit on the table, I use the dremel
drill press with carbide bits.  "Little chance" is a bit pessimistic
mike


>  
> You MUST use a proper and accurate drill-press.  If you can find one
 of the 
> little versions at HF (better:  Enco, though not much!) with no 
runout (15% 
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> chance?) that may do if you can hold the board steady on the  table.  
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Making PCBs - The other tasks

2005-04-24 by rruss45826@aol.com

In a message dated 4/23/2005 6:17:28 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
JanRwl@... writes:

1).  Cutting  boards
Does anyone know of a suitable mini saw table/inverted  router type  setup to 
accurately cut PCBs to size?<<
There  are small "table saws" with 5 or 5½" blades available.  Not much   
good, 
but would do for PCB work, but ONLY if you use a  carbide-tipped  blade.  The 
more teeth the better.   




Boards can easily be cut to size on a band saw. I also  use this saw with a 
diamond blade and it works great!
_Click  here: Tools and Supplies for Building Scale Models | Micro-Mark: The 
Small Tool  Specialists_ 
(http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=80463) 
Ray Russell
NMRA-40609
General Contractor
Norfolk &  Western Railroad
Pocahontas Division
Circa 1958
Visit The "NEW"  Pocahontas Website at:_ Click here: N  & W Pocahontas  
Division_ (http://members.aol.com/rruss45826/public_html/index.html) 
http://members.aol.com/rruss45826/public_html/index.html

OR_ Click here:  Pocahontas Home_ 
(http://milliron.home.sprynet.com/Pocahontas/Pocahontas1.htm)  
For the old website!  
http://milliron.home.sprynet.com/Pocahontas/Pocahontas1.htm


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Making PCBs - The other tasks

2005-04-24 by uhmgawa

Stefan Trethan wrote:

> Sheet metal shears/scissors. Either handheld or the bench variety, all  
> works well.
> Tile saws are said to work too, are cheap (30eur) and run in water bath  
> (dust).
> A small table saw with a carbide blade makes very nice cuts, but IMO is  
> too loud and messy.
> Strong paper cutters.

While I've used shearing in the past, I'd rather
not do so if I had a choice.  Shearing stresses
are rather broadly distributed compared to sawing,
routing, etc..  Making cuts close to active traces
and vias via shearing is best avoided IMHO.

-- 
uhmgawa@...        www.gnu.org

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Making PCBs - The other tasks

2005-04-24 by JanRwl@AOL.COM

In a message dated 4/23/2005 9:19:29 P.M. Central Daylight Time,  
rruss45826@... writes:

Boards  can easily be cut to size on a band saw. I also  use this saw with a  
diamond blade and it works great!<<
Yes, I use my bandsaw on FR-4 when the blade has become too dull for  
woodworking, and it's "time to change it, anyway".  Cutting 1" of FR-4  "finishes" an 
ordinary HSS BS blade for woodworking!  Diamond?  You  mean diamond-plated?  
Is that thick enough to last very long?  Cost  per blade?  Must be a fortune!






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Making PCBs - The other tasks

2005-04-24 by JanRwl@AOL.COM

In a message dated 4/23/2005 10:20:54 P.M. Central Daylight Time,  
uhmgawa@... writes:

While  I've used shearing in the past, I'd rather not do so if I had a  
choice.<<


I agree 100% ! ! !


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Making PCBs - The other tasks

2005-04-24 by Stefan Trethan

On Sat, 23 Apr 2005 23:19:34 -0400, uhmgawa <uhmgawa@...> wrote:

>
> While I've used shearing in the past, I'd rather
> not do so if I had a choice.  Shearing stresses
> are rather broadly distributed compared to sawing,
> routing, etc..  Making cuts close to active traces
> and vias via shearing is best avoided IMHO.


That's true but i avoid traces at the edges anyway and do no plating of  
holes.

I have a small table saw with carbide blade, but most times i avoid the  
noise and dust.

Even quality PCB suppliers like bungard sell shears.

ST

Re: Making PCBs - The other tasks

2005-04-25 by Ben H. Lanmon

> I know  Dremel do a few add-ons for their hand held drills, but 
are they any  
> good?<<
> Simple, accurate answer:  NO.
> 

> 2).  Drilling
> I can't really see any other way than a Dremel by  hand...<<
> Then you obviously haven't SEEN much!  You will NEVER drill PCB 
holes  with 
> proper solid-carbide PCB drills with a Dremel.  Even with 
their "drill  press 
> stand" thing, there's little chance!  
>  
> You MUST use a proper and accurate drill-press.  If you can find 
one  of the 
> little versions at HF (better:  Enco, though not much!) with no  
runout (15% 
> chance?) that may do if you can hold the board steady on the  
table.  

Drilling

Well I agree that the Dremel is not the best but they do work and 
work pretty good.  I drilled over 6000 holes just the other day with 
a Dermel Tool and Dermel Drill Press using Carbide bits from .7mm to 
2mm did not break a bit.  When I do break a bit it is due to not 
holding the board down good.

What HF drill press are you talking about?  Not too sure a HF drill 
press would be any better than a Dremel Tool.

Cutting PCB's

1.  A table saw with a diamond blade works good, but you need very 
good dust collection to go with it, and put a filter on your motor 
air intake. 

2.  Bench Type Sheet Metal Shears work good.  I have a Kepro PCB 
Shear that works nice.

Have not gotten into the Screen Printing just yet but I am 
interested in screen printing labeling, and then maybe mask.  don't 
really know of any other method, some say that Toner Transfer works 
good for the Labeling.  

I currently use positive photo for layout, once you are set up to do 
it, it is easy and give good repeatable results.  Use MG Chemical's 
600 series boards.


Ben

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Making PCBs - The other tasks

2005-04-25 by Martin Haverland

----- Original Message -----
From: "Martin Haverland" <entwickler@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2005 5:55 PM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Making PCBs - The other tasks


> I even drilled (and will drill in future) my single prototype pcb's
> completely freehand with a dremel-like drilltool (hss drills).
> i don't let it drill fast fast, in fact as slow as the tool can cut the
pcb
> easily, and give it a fair slow one time pressure, with epoxy+harder
> sometimes in two steps if the drill seems in danger to get stuck. the
drill
> must creep easily into the pcb, then you're right.
> Needed one pcb to learn it, now im drilling eurocard format faster with my
> two hands as anyone can do using a drill press, except a machine.
> You need good eyes and a little bit of hand skill, but it is sincerely
> possible, even 40 pin ic socket holes that fits the socket in a good
manner.
> you have to etch the drill hole, no other way possible. let the drill find
> the hole by itself. You will know what i mean if you try.
> train on a few training etched pcbs with different skill levels ( 2 pin
> components, 8 pin ic, 16 pin ic >, first 0,8 mm, then 0,8 and 1,0mm all
kind
> of
> components mixed). Try to finish a whole pcb as fast as possible in one go
> to train your concentration.
>
> instead of screen printing i use the toner transfer method instead of silk
> screening after etching with good results.
> it' much easier as the transfer for echting.
>
> Kind regards
>
> Martin
>
> PS: i will try it on double sided pcb's with ground layer in near future
and
> will tell you if this  is possible, but i think it shouldn't be much
harder,
> only slower because you have to get the right angle to get both holes and
> have to be a little more careful.
> Some people will shout at me "IT'S IMPOSSIBLE", but i tell the truth and
> will ask them if they have really tried it with the intent to learn it, to
> act really concentrated and use their eyes and fingers as an intelligent
cnc
> drill?
> BTW i even drilled one pcb even without a proper drill, just with a
"solder
> pin"(right words? this golden connector pins...ya know?)...
> i was in a hurry, so don't try this at home. I learned to try the so
called
> impossible as i saw my "teacher", a skilled engineer, at a centre lathe
> (don't know the words sometimes...sorry if bad english, used googletool
this
> time...), doing complex drillings and cutting threads in them freehand,
> leaving me speechless at the lunch spare time...he was just "a little bit
in
> a hurry" and needed the parts in production a few minutes later...a
> production process with critical time plan. (22 pcs + 1 spare, but they
all
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> fitted to the specs...). The only time i saw his face turning this red by
> the adrenaline push....he was really bathed in sweat...
>
> maybe a little bit hadcore diy :-)
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ben H. Lanmon" <bhleavi@...>
> To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Monday, April 25, 2005 3:41 AM
> Subject: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Making PCBs - The other tasks
>
>
> >
> >
> >
> > > I know  Dremel do a few add-ons for their hand held drills, but
> > are they any
> > > good?<<
> > > Simple, accurate answer:  NO.
> > >
> >
> > > 2).  Drilling
> > > I can't really see any other way than a Dremel by  hand...<<
> > > Then you obviously haven't SEEN much!  You will NEVER drill PCB
> > holes  with
> > > proper solid-carbide PCB drills with a Dremel.  Even with
> > their "drill  press
> > > stand" thing, there's little chance!
> > >
> > > You MUST use a proper and accurate drill-press.  If you can find
> > one  of the
> > > little versions at HF (better:  Enco, though not much!) with no
> > runout (15%
> > > chance?) that may do if you can hold the board steady on the
> > table.
> >
> > Drilling
> >
> > Well I agree that the Dremel is not the best but they do work and
> > work pretty good.  I drilled over 6000 holes just the other day with
> > a Dermel Tool and Dermel Drill Press using Carbide bits from .7mm to
> > 2mm did not break a bit.  When I do break a bit it is due to not
> > holding the board down good.
> >
> > What HF drill press are you talking about?  Not too sure a HF drill
> > press would be any better than a Dremel Tool.
> >
> > Cutting PCB's
> >
> > 1.  A table saw with a diamond blade works good, but you need very
> > good dust collection to go with it, and put a filter on your motor
> > air intake.
> >
> > 2.  Bench Type Sheet Metal Shears work good.  I have a Kepro PCB
> > Shear that works nice.
> >
> > Have not gotten into the Screen Printing just yet but I am
> > interested in screen printing labeling, and then maybe mask.  don't
> > really know of any other method, some say that Toner Transfer works
> > good for the Labeling.
> >
> > I currently use positive photo for layout, once you are set up to do
> > it, it is easy and give good repeatable results.  Use MG Chemical's
> > 600 series boards.
> >
> >
> > Ben
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and files:
> > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Making PCBs - The other tasks

2005-04-25 by Stefan Trethan

On Mon, 25 Apr 2005 18:58:55 +0200, Martin Haverland  
<professional@...> wrote:

>
>
>> I even drilled (and will drill in future) my single prototype pcb's
>> completely freehand with a dremel-like drilltool (hss drills).

While i agree with most of your post, HSS drills do not produce holes of  
the same quality as carbide drills.
They get dull after a few and more like melt their way in than cut it.  
(proof: your solderpin story)

This is however not a problem with many homebrew boards, and i think for a  
beginner freehand drilling is perfectly acceptable, i have used it for  
quite a while myself and as you say it is in fact faster than with a press  
and carbide drills.

Note that sharpening the drill from time to time is a good idea, and it is  
totally non-critical if you get it nice, in fact once i broke a drill  
(yes, with HSS i only ever broke a single drill in a pcb, ever, and i did  
that for years), well, once i broke one i just continued and the broken  
edge drilled surprisingly well. it was more or less a straight break so i  
think maybe holding it straight against a grinding wheel would work just  
as well as normal sharpening.

Doublesided is possible, you can even correct very slightly for offset.  
But note that the exit side has a even worse burr if there is copper than  
the side where the drill enters.


ST

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Making PCBs - The other tasks

2005-04-25 by Martin Haverland

you are surely right about hole quality...
but it fits my needs until now :-)
and the hss i just had around in a fairly high amount...
:-). you can circumvent the *melting* a bit trying to get the optimal drill
speed...works ok for me.

Cheers

Martin

----- Original Message -----
Show quoted textHide quoted text
From: "Stefan Trethan" <stefan_trethan@...>
To: <Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2005 8:18 PM
Subject: Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Making PCBs - The other tasks


>
> On Mon, 25 Apr 2005 18:58:55 +0200, Martin Haverland
> <professional@...> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >> I even drilled (and will drill in future) my single prototype pcb's
> >> completely freehand with a dremel-like drilltool (hss drills).
>
> While i agree with most of your post, HSS drills do not produce holes of
> the same quality as carbide drills.
> They get dull after a few and more like melt their way in than cut it.
> (proof: your solderpin story)
>
> This is however not a problem with many homebrew boards, and i think for a
> beginner freehand drilling is perfectly acceptable, i have used it for
> quite a while myself and as you say it is in fact faster than with a press
> and carbide drills.
>
> Note that sharpening the drill from time to time is a good idea, and it is
> totally non-critical if you get it nice, in fact once i broke a drill
> (yes, with HSS i only ever broke a single drill in a pcb, ever, and i did
> that for years), well, once i broke one i just continued and the broken
> edge drilled surprisingly well. it was more or less a straight break so i
> think maybe holding it straight against a grinding wheel would work just
> as well as normal sharpening.
>
> Doublesided is possible, you can even correct very slightly for offset.
> But note that the exit side has a even worse burr if there is copper than
> the side where the drill enters.
>
>
> ST
>
>
>
> Be sure to visit the group home and check for new Bookmarks and files:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Making PCBs - The other tasks

2005-04-25 by Roy J. Tellason

On Monday 25 April 2005 02:18 pm, Stefan Trethan wrote:

> While i agree with most of your post, HSS drills do not produce holes of
> the same quality as carbide drills.
> They get dull after a few and more like melt their way in than cut it.
> (proof: your solderpin story)

Is this assuming any particular board material?

Re: [Homebrew_PCBs] Re: Making PCBs - The other tasks

2005-04-25 by Stefan Trethan

rOn Mon, 25 Apr 2005 15:47:08 -0400, Roy J. Tellason  
<rtellason@...> wrote:

>
> Is this assuming any particular board material?


Glassfiber reinforced. Phenolic paper will not dull the bits as quickly i  
assume.

If the hole quality would be better (especially the burr on the copper) i  
would go back to freehand drilling. It was way faster and the accuracy  
actually better because the drill finds the center on it's own. The  
carbide drills are so sharp and the press so stiff that i must align much  
better or it will just cut in the wrong place.
I think for a beginner HSS is acceptable anyway.


Is anyone here using toner transfer and a CNC? (or at least toner artwork,  
photo, and a CNC?)
I kind of start to resent drilling and would re-consider a CNC, but my  
fear is the laser distortion, shrinkage, ... is too big and things would  
be off. No point in building a CNC if it can't be used.

How could one best measure distortions?

ST

Re: Making PCBs - The other tasks

2005-04-26 by Phil

--- In Homebrew_PCBs@yahoogroups.com, "Kev Pearce \(kevp.com\)"
<email.me@k...> wrote:
...
> 
> 1). Cutting boards
> Does anyone know of a suitable mini saw table/inverted router type
setup to accurately cut PCBs to size?
> I know Dremel do a few add-ons for their hand held drills, but are
they any good?
> Is there any other kind of hobby/craft mini-saw table that could do
a nice job of cutting PCBs?

I have used a shear (with a nice clamping bar) for a lot of PCBs.  For
FR4, it really works well.  I have not had any damaged traces or vias
but I avoid traces within 100 mils of the edge as others do.  Its
important to note that the clamping bar makes the cut all that much
cleaner.  Its also so much faster than any other way.  Slide the board
in, line it up, shear and you're done.  Maybe a quick sanding of the
edges.   A couple of minutes at the most.

Sawing, routing, etc is just plain nasty.  I have used a 1/16" router
bit for this purpose - it is slow and creates a mess, even with a dust
collector. 

However, phenolic does not shear well at all.  Its just too brittle.

Each to his own...

> 
> 2). Drilling
> I can't really see any other way than a Dremel by hand...

I use a drill press.  By hand can work but a press is 10X better,
imho.  You can get "counter top" models for <$100 new and I see them
all the time at local (seattle) auctions in the $50-75 range.  With a
decent cross sliding vise you can drill with good accuracy.  Plus a
drill press is pretty much required equipment in any self-respecting
shop :)

> 
> 3). Silkscreen Top Component Layer
> Anyone know of any inkjet ink/paper/system that can be ironed on to
the top surface of a board to give component locations/orientations
etc. Any a nice cheap home solution? Does have to last forever just so
the boards can be assembled with less faults ;-) I though about doing
double sided boards and using the top copper side purely as a layout
layer without any connection tracks at all.

As was said, use toner transfer (after etching) to do the legend.  Its
easy and it works pretty well.

> 
> 4). Solder Masks
> Like the silkscreen at no 3) any kind of inkjet ink/paper setup that
will iron on solder masks?

I'm still looking for an easy way to do this.  Please post anything
you come up with.

Phil

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