Marcos Maniacs

Hi Jac
  Criticism it is not........I DO understand the purpose of the 
radius rods and I have NOT changed the design in any way....my car 
being a steel chassis car I do not see the purpose of bolting through 
a thin fibreglass panel albeit with a steel strap sandwiched in 
there .......what I have done is eliminated the possibility of not 
being able to get those bolts out in the future because I can now 
drive them out from inside the trunk(if you have ever had to take 
these bolts out on a steel chassis car you will appreciate what I 
have done)..........just a rebuttal thats all!
        Cheers Dave
PS Jac , after rereading your post I don't think you quite got what I 
have done.....the radius rods are still attatched to the chassis with 
through bolts at the origional places, just not through the trunk 
walls........where they did pass through the trunk walls that is 
where I cut a slot(in the fibreglass)and made a channel to cover the 
slot .I origionally thought of this because now I can have a fully 
assembled chassis without the body on the frame.......otherwise I 
would have to wait until the body was on the frame before I could 
attatch the rear radius rods. Bye


--- In MarcosManiacs@yahoogroups.com, "Jack Myers" <jacob@m...> wrote:
> Hello Dave 
> PLEASE don't take this the wrong way.
> But why do you feel it necessary to change the design of the radius 
arm fixing? I ask out of interest.
> My view is (for your interest). The radius arms are there to 
transmit the motion of the axle to the chassis. the reason for top 
and bottom arms is to control tramping on acceleration ( the twisting 
of the axle). That is why the arms pass through the body to share out 
the load on the wood back and forth. The upside is that the securing 
nuts are in the boot out of harms way (wet and muck).
> If I under stand your set up the loading is on screws which in the 
fullness of time could work loose.
> I trust this does not sound like a criticism. And just the chat it 
is intended .
> Best regards   Jac
>   ----- Original Message ----- 
>   From: Dave Barton 
>   To: MarcosManiacs@yahoogroups.com 
>   Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2003 6:29 PM
>   Subject: [MarcosManiacs] Re: 3L5365
> 
> 
>   Welcome Pat, hello everyone
>     Speaking of the radius rods at the rear,it seems to me that the 
>   radius rods do not need to be tied into the body in the trunk, 
its 
>   not like the car is a unibody and needs the body to give the frame
>   rigidity.  What I have done is cut a slot in the area where the 2 
>   bolts per side go through the body and into the frame where the 
>   radius rods connect and formed an aluminum channel that covers 
this 
>   slot I applied some body sealer around the slot and screwed the 
>   channel into place.......now if those bolts ever have to come out 
I 
>   simply remove that channel and access them........the only other 
>   reason I can see why you needed a through bolt there is to bolt 
down 
>   the body.........
>   am I seeing that right?
>          Cheers Dave #5577    
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>   --- In MarcosManiacs@yahoogroups.com, <patemery@s...> wrote:
>   > Hi Don!
>   > 
>   > Sorry for the delay in answering your message. My Marcos is a 
1969 
>   model with wooden chassis. The 13" magnesium wheels have been 
>   sandblasted (low pressure) and painted the common silver-gray 
with 
>   clear coat. The center hub cap are my design and are machined 
from 
>   stainless steel material. The chrome wing is bolted to the cap. I 
got 
>   the wings from J.C.Whitney. I got tired to see stress cracks on 
the 
>   bonnet (hood) caused by the air filter rubbing on it so I 
replaced 
>   the wire mesh air cleaner with a paper element one from 
Mr.Gasket. I 
>   cut a round opening in the bonnet just big enough to clear. This 
was 
>   a temporary measure as I intended to rework the bulge slightly 
higher 
>   to clear the filter. That was five years ago! I have also added a 
>   full length skid plate from the radiator to the back of the 
gearbox; 
>   steel reinforcement in the trunk for the radius arms; an 
aluminium 
>   shaped to the countour of the trunk floor and bolted to it. It 
extend 
>   past the axle and is bolted to the floorunder the trunk cockpit 
>   floor. 2" stainless steel dual exhaust pipe are attached to the 
>   headers. No mufflers. Just glass-pack dual exhaust tips. I also 
>   fabricated a cooling fan schrowd(?)to help cooling. The engine is 
a 
>   3L Ford Essex V6 that had been upgraded to Stage 2 performance by 
>   Specialized Engine in U.K (by the previous owner, Ted MacGregor). 
>   There is a roll bar inside. It has yet to be confirmed that it is 
the 
>   only 1969 LHD wooden chassis equipped with a Ford V6. And as for 
the 
>   chrome trim around the headlamp covers, they are simply Slide-
over 
>   Door Edge Protection that you can buy anywhere. It fits best when 
it 
>   is warm. 
>   > Have a nice week-end.
>   > Pat
>   > > 
>   > > From: "Don Lattimer" <donlattimer@p...>
>   > > Date: 2003/05/09 Fri AM 11:32:29 EST
>   > > To: MarcosManiacs@yahoogroups.com
>   > > Subject: [MarcosManiacs] Re: Alloy hub supplier
>   > > 
>   > >
> 
> 
>         Yahoo! Groups Sponsor 
> 
>              
>        
>        
> 
>   To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>   MarcosManiacs-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> 
> 
> 
>   Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of 
Service.