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RE: RE: [MarcosManiacs] Wiring issue

2018-09-27 by David Rattee

Dave and Larry,

For what it is worth, and my Marcos experience goes back a mere 42 years, many electrical issues with the Marcos can be traced back to poor ground connections.

Generally, if a bulb is working but not as it should (i.e is coming on when the switch command is for something else to come on or is not working at all, but is a good bulb, then that definitely points to a poor connection in the wiring and usually at a ground (black wire) connection. Bullet sleeve connections from one wire to another are notoriously unreliable when they get old especially once the corrosion has started between the inner metal sleeve and the bullet.

The ground is actually the negative terminal at the battery but obviously every single ground wire cannot be run back to the battery. Instead there are a variety of multiple ground wire connecting points. Any corrosion, mould, or moisture will soon interfere with the continuity and cause switches instruments and lights not to work as they should.

The Marcos needs warm dry weather low humidity and to be driven regularly. Clearly conditions that do not exist everywhere all the time. It is old technology and cheaply made stuff and is inherently unreliable once it starts to age and once people start changing stuff.

In time the wires harden and become brittle and not all connectors can be trusted to have been crimped and soldered properly especially not by a garage or home mechanic. Crimped connections work fine if done correctly and as long as they are not subject to stress like being pulled at.

The problems have a source and follow a logic.

A test bulb wire set (even just a home-made one – a bulb, two wires soldered to the bulb and with crocodile clips at each end is a cheap and fool proof test of whether there is a break in a line, so you can connect the battery direct to the unit that is malfunctioning.

If the test bulb rig passes current to the malfunctioning unit so that it works correctly you have an indication of where in the wiring the problem will be. Usually it is at a connection either at the malfunctioning light unit or close by for example at a connection.

If where the malfunctioning unit is happens also to be exposed to the weather such as at the headlights, side lights and indicators then the source of the problem is likely to be at the connections at the front end of the car which gets all the water and dampness.

Of course if a previous owner / mechanic fitted a non-logical wire set and assuming the person is not available to question, it may be necessary to go back to basics and start from there and by pass what-ever supplementary kit has been wired into the system.

It just takes time and patience.

Good Luck

Regards

David

Marcos 3L Volvo 3V-5890

From: MarcosManiacs@yahoogroups.com [mailto:MarcosManiacs@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: 27 September 2018 13:36
To: Dave Sell davesell@outlook.com [MarcosManiacs] <MarcosManiacs@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: RE: [MarcosManiacs] Wiring issue

Dave,

Have you had a chance to do any more trouble shooting of the lights?


Regards,
Larry

On Tuesday, September 25, 2018, 8:24:37 PM EDT, Dave Sell davesell@outlook.com [MarcosManiacs] <MarcosManiacs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Larry, thanks.

This is a car I had converted to LHD, so my driver’s side is on the port side of the car. Looking at the driver’s side headlight, there is a connection for the low beam (outside light) that has 1 black wire, two Siamese blue with white striped wires and two siamese blue with black (or maybe red) striped wires.. The passenger side has 1 black, 1 blue with white stripe and 1 blue with black/red stripe. On the bonnet support pieces there are three what looks like relays on the driver’s side and two on the passenger side. One on the passenger side looks like it was a replacement, it is much larger than the others. I can’t get close enough to see any markings on the black boxes. The wires to the boxes come straight out of a wiring harness, so I haven’t traced the wires yet. On of the black boxes on the driver’s side has some wires that are blue with various colored stripes. At the firewall there is a yellow box that looks like it was added on at some time, that has numbers on it that are 30, 85, 86, 87 which match the numbers on a wiring diagram I found on line that said it was for a headlight relay kit, but I can’t see behind the relay to see the wires coming into it.

Excuse my ignorance, but if a light works then it has both power and a ground, so how can working in the opposite direction be a ground issue?

Dave

From: MarcosManiacs@yahoogroups.com <MarcosManiacs@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2018 4:59 PM
To: Dave Sell davesell@outlook.com [MarcosManiacs] <MarcosManiacs@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [MarcosManiacs] Wiring issue

Evening, Dave,

Wiring those high power lights into the INVENTOR OF DARKNESS electrical system requires some special wiring and really good ground connections. Can you determine if they were installed using relays for there control.

The system has defiantly got a ground problem.

I am not familiar with the 1991 model, so do not know if it uses the wiring system as the early models.

If you would look at the colours of the wire that connect to the lights and let me know, maybe I can help you.
Regards,
Larry

On Tuesday, September 25, 2018, 6:26:42 PM EDT, Dave Sell davesell@outlook.com [MarcosManiacs] <MarcosManiacs@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

I’m settling in with my newly acquired 1991 Mantula. I have an issue that is puzzling me. A previous owner installed aftermarket HID low beam headlights. I have not tried to drive at night yet, so I only recently tried to turn them on. The first time, they flickered quite a bit, but came on. Now the low beams don’t come on at all.. I asked Rory about it and he said that the engine needs to be running and my previous attempts were without the engine running. Yesterday I started the car and turned on the lights. As soon as I got the switch into the position to run on the “parking” lights, my tachometer stopped. When I turned the lights off, the tach started again. Also with the lights on (mind you I haven’t even gotten to the position to turn on the low beams yet), the turn signals don’t work, but turn the lights off and everything works again. Still even with the engine running, the low beams don’t work. The high beams do work, but the little blue light on the dash which should indicate the high beams are on is actually working just the opposite. The blue light is on when the high beams are off and the blue light is off when the high beams are on. Are there any electrical experts out there that might point me in the right direction?

Thanks,

Dave

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