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Re: {SPAM} Re: [MarcosManiacs] Re: 3L5365

Re: {SPAM} Re: [MarcosManiacs] Re: 3L5365

2003-05-12 by Don Lattimer

Hi Jac,
I'll have to agree with Dave on this one. I cannot even loosen the rear upper or lower bolts on my steel frame car. The front radius mounts had to be cut off with an angle grinder and then the bushings pressed out. They were badly rusted. A little anti-sieze was applied upon refitting the new ones! I will have to cut into the fiberglass like Dave did if I ever decide to change the rear radius rod bushings. Just no other way!.
Ah.............to live and learn each day! Hope all is well with you.
Don Lattimer
#3m5759
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----- Original Message -----
From: Jack Myers
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2003 3:26 PM
Subject: {SPAM} Re: [MarcosManiacs] Re: 3L5365

Hello Dave
Well there we are then, it was worth the print.
Now I understand. You have to make allowances for an English man. Sounds good to me.
Best regards Jac
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2003 1:33 AM
Subject: [MarcosManiacs] Re: 3L5365


Hi Jac
Criticism it is not........I DO understand the purpose of the
radius rods and I have NOT changed the design in any way....my car
being a steel chassis car I do not see the purpose of bolting through
a thin fibreglass panel albeit with a steel strap sandwiched in
there .......what I have done is eliminated the possibility of not
being able to get those bolts out in the future because I can now
drive them out from inside the trunk(if you have ever had to take
these bolts out on a steel chassis car you will appreciate what I
have done)..........just a rebuttal thats all!
Cheers Dave
PS Jac , after rereading your post I don't think you quite got what I
have done.....the radius rods are still attatched to the chassis with
through bolts at the origional places, just not through the trunk
walls........where they did pass through the trunk walls that is
where I cut a slot(in the fibreglass)and made a channel to cover the
slot .I origionally thought of this because now I can have a fully
assembled chassis without the body on the frame.......otherwise I
would have to wait until the body was on the frame before I could
attatch the rear radius rods. Bye


--- In MarcosManiacs@yahoogroups.com, "Jack Myers" wrote:
> Hello Dave
> PLEASE don't take this the wrong way.
> But why do you feel it necessary to change the design of the radius
arm fixing? I ask out of interest.
> My view is (for your interest). The radius arms are there to
transmit the motion of the axle to the chassis. the reason for top
and bottom arms is to control tramping on acceleration ( the twisting
of the axle). That is why the arms pass through the body to share out
the load on the wood back and forth. The upside is that the securing
nuts are in the boot out of harms way (wet and muck).
> If I under stand your set up the loading is on screws which in the
fullness of time could work loose.
> I trust this does not sound like a criticism. And just the chat it
is intended .
> Best regards Jac
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Dave Barton
> To: MarcosManiacs@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2003 6:29 PM
> Subject: [MarcosManiacs] Re: 3L5365
>
>
> Welcome Pat, hello everyone
> Speaking of the radius rods at the rear,it seems to me that the
> radius rods do not need to be tied into the body in the trunk,
its
> not like the car is a unibody and needs the body to give the frame
> rigidity. What I have done is cut a slot in the area where the 2
> bolts per side go through the body and into the frame where the
> radius rods connect and formed an aluminum channel that covers
this
> slot I applied some body sealer around the slot and screwed the
> channel into place.......now if those bolts ever have to come out
I
> simply remove that channel and access them........the only other
> reason I can see why you needed a through bolt there is to bolt
down
> the body.........
> am I seeing that right?
> Cheers Dave #5577
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --- In MarcosManiacs@yahoogroups.com, wrote:
> > Hi Don!
> >
> > Sorry for the delay in answering your message. My Marcos is a
1969
> model with wooden chassis. The 13" magnesium wheels have been
> sandblasted (low pressure) and painted the common silver-gray
with
> clear coat. The center hub cap are my design and are machined
from
> stainless steel material. The chrome wing is bolted to the cap. I
got
> the wings from J.C.Whitney. I got tired to see stress cracks on
the
> bonnet (hood) caused by the air filter rubbing on it so I
replaced
> the wire mesh air cleaner with a paper element one from
Mr.Gasket. I
> cut a round opening in the bonnet just big enough to clear. This
was
> a temporary measure as I intended to rework the bulge slightly
higher
> to clear the filter. That was five years ago! I have also added a
> full length skid plate from the radiator to the back of the
gearbox;
> steel reinforcement in the trunk for the radius arms; an
aluminium
> shaped to the countour of the trunk floor and bolted to it. It
extend
> past the axle and is bolted to the floorunder the trunk cockpit
> floor. 2" stainless steel dual exhaust pipe are attached to the
> headers. No mufflers. Just glass-pack dual exhaust tips. I also
> fabricated a cooling fan schrowd(?)to help cooling. The engine is
a
> 3L Ford Essex V6 that had been upgraded to Stage 2 performance by
> Specialized Engine in U.K (by the previous owner, Ted MacGregor).
> There is a roll bar inside. It has yet to be confirmed that it is
the
> only 1969 LHD wooden chassis equipped with a Ford V6. And as for
the
> chrome trim around the headlamp covers, they are simply Slide-
over
> Door Edge Protection that you can buy anywhere. It fits best when
it
> is warm.
> > Have a nice week-end.
> > Pat
> > >
> > > From: "Don Lattimer"
> > > Date: 2003/05/09 Fri AM 11:32:29 EST
> > > To: MarcosManiacs@yahoogroups.com
> > > Subject: [MarcosManiacs] Re: Alloy hub supplier
> ; > >
> > >
>
>
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