PLAN B analog blog

Hello,

Thanks for explanations :D

So first inspection is done and yeah! Don't worry Peter, we won't have to go to Macy's ;P

I'll head @Addison tomorrow morning to get a potentiometre and see if it works!

I'll post updates right once I've checked! :)

g.

--- In PLAN_B_analog_blog@yahoogroups.com, "(i think you can figure that out)" 
<peter@...> wrote:
>
> Sounds like this is a used one, yes?
> 
> OK, unfortunately you have to open it up.  Not hard, just have to be
> careful.   Remove the knobs (make sure you don't dent your faceplate
> if you use a flat-blade screwdriver to lift them off).  The you have toremove the nuts for 
the pots and the output jack nuts and the 1v/oct,FM in, morph VC row.  do NOT remove 
the nuts on the fine fune, sync,VC PWM, PWM not and Wave B switch.
> 
> The carefully separate the faceplate form the back and you'l see it
> open up like a book, with wires going from the main board to the
> faceplate mounted components. The wires are long enough so the
> faceplate will pay facedown next to the electronics.
> 
> First thing to do is check if the wires and soldered jumper is intact
> on the fine tune pot.  looking at the back of the pot with the leads
> on bottom, there should be a piece of buswire shorting the far left
> lead to the center lead.  Then there should be two wires coming off
> the pot as follows:
> 
> The one coming from the far righthand lead should go to pad FF1 on the
> main board.
> 
> The second wire, which can come from either the center or far left
> lead of the pot should go to a pad labeled FF2 on the main board.
> It's right next to FF1.
> 
> If the wires are all on in place, just look down them, inspect them to
> see it there are any kinks or cuts in the wire, or places where the
> insulation has ripped and exposed the wire strands.  If you see any of
> this, replace that wire.
> 
> Last thing to check, but really - don't get your hopes up:  R11 may be
> missing ( I would kiss your butt in Macy's window if it were).  I use
> these to calibrate the tracking when they ship.  If it was missing,
> I'd know about it. Anyway, R11 is the 680K (blue/grey/yellow bands)
> right next to the FF1 and FF2 pads on the main board.
> 
> If all those are intact then you need to check the pot.  Basically I'd
> just replace it.  It's a 100K linear Alpha type.  Not sure where you
> get then in your neigborhood, but you can get them in the US from
> Mouser (they only hace log in that config, but it'll work) or
> Futurlec, who will have the pot you need but it may take longer to get it.
> 
> Then just slap that pot in place where the old one was.
> 
> Feel free to post any results you find here.  Sorry you're havng this
> problem.
> 
> - P
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --- In PLAN_B_analog_blog@yahoogroups.com, "gabu_004" <gabu_004@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Hello Peter,
> >
> > I've just acquired a M15 v.2 where the fine freq pot doesn't do
> > anything at all, the guy who sold me assured me it was working, so it
> > must be the traveling that changed something... do you have any
> > possible diagnostic of what it could be, what I should check, and what
> > I coukld do to fix it?
> >
> > thanks as usual :)
> >
> > g.
> >
>