I agree with the general thrust of the comments. I use settings similar to Jeff.
To
answer your question about whether there's a simple way to switch back
and forth between settings, I suspect that many people who talk about
these sort of monitor settings are using either Eizo Coloredge or NEC
Colorsync monitors, and on these hardware calibrateable monitors there
is. I know for a fact that there is on Eizo and I believe that there is
on NEC. I suspect that you may struggle to dial in exactly the sort of
settings that we're talking about without monitors like these. They
are much more expensive than your typical monitor, esp Eizo, but if you
can manage to justify one you won't regret it.
The
other point I'd make is that you want to match your editing set-up to
your typical viewing conditions. Rob made reference to ISO standards,
and given the country he is in that suggests that he's quoting the views
of Les Walkling. This is something that Les emphasises a lot in his
teaching, based around the ISO standards. IIRC one standard is for
viewing and one for print proofing and you switch between them.
I
don't follow those standards blindly, but bright viewing conditions and
dark viewing conditions will change the way a print looks and you need
to allow for that. Purists will recommend a D50 viewing booth, and
while that plus the right monitor will make exact screen-to-print
matching easy, that's not how my prints are viewed. A D50 viewing booth
is a bit artificial, even if it is a reference standard. If you're
editing at 120cd/m2 then you're going to need a very bright room to
match that.
---In QuadtoneRIP@yahoogroups.com, <per@...> wrote :
I have tried lowering the settings for my display calibration to d65 90cd/m2 (which requires me to set my monitor brightness to 5 out of 100), and viewing the image in lightroom on a white background. This improves things, but it is still not a close match (the screen is whiter than the print).
Given that I have printed a stepwedge through qtr with a confirmed linear profile, what route do I have to make sure that the screen brightness matches the print? I am using Canson Baryta Prestige paper which is very white. However, holding up the print to the screen, the print white is definitely not as bright as the screen.
Given that I have printed a stepwedge through qtr with a confirmed linear profile, what route do I have to make sure that the screen brightness matches the print? I am using Canson Baryta Prestige paper which is very white. However, holding up the print to the screen, the print white is definitely not as bright as the screen.
Should I suspect my color profiler? I am using a colormunki display for the profiling.