Frans, The "correct method" from a color management point of view is to buy the highend spectrophotometer and custom profile all your components on a regular basis. But even that doesn't take into account the ambient lighting as you edit and the lighting of the displayed print. All these things can affect what you consider the "perfect" print. Even soft-proofing has a couple options to match in different ways. You can simulate the ink black and/or the paper white. But there's no "correct" way just what helps you the most. But the issue in all this and what I mean by "best results" is whether YOU the image maker/editor can look at your screen and judge what the print will look like. It's an inexact goal from the get go because the light-emitting screen is so different from a light-reflecting print. So I think relying on your eyes and perception is always the final test. It's especially important to note that "best results" of tonal match have nothing to do with print quality in this case. Back to the color management workflow: if you don't custom profile everything in your system I've provided a couple generic print profiles -- Gray Matte Paper and Gray Photo Paper. The only thing these do is approximate a typical dMax for the two kinds of paper given the typical linearization of QTR profiles. For the "average" situation that isn't custom profiled they are probably better than anything else. What's important once you are using color management is what the LAST profile conversion in your workflow is. With QTR/PC that is typically a Convert-To-Profile in Photoshop before saving. With QTR/Mac or say Qimage/PC its the "print" profile. (printing with a profile means Convert to that profile). Hope that helps. Roy On Wednesday, March 7, 2007, at 07:22 PM, fwaterlander wrote: > Joost, > > Sorry, but I don't buy into this "do whatever gives the best > results". That's a cop-out. This program was created to perform > certain functions and if the program was written logically than for > any given printer/ink/paper/editing program combination there is only > one correct method, unless several options were created on purpose, > which I doubt is the case here. I would like to see Roy speak clearly > as to what needs to be done when for best results and update the > documentation, which is badly needed. > > I'm really impressed with this program, but I also see some glaring > issues. > > Frans Waterlander > > --- In QuadtoneRIP@yahoogroups.com, "Joost Horsten" <j.h.j.h@...> > wrote: >> >> Hi Duane, >> >>>> Hope some of this has made sense to you. >> >> Yes, it does. You just described my workflow and how I understand > it. >> Thanks for confirming. Unlike you, I DID found the need to convert > to >> gray-lab. Without it, I my monitor-print match was not as good. But >> we do seem aligned on the theory of it. >> >> >> Hi Frans, >> >> --- In QuadtoneRIP@yahoogroups.com, "fwaterlander" <frans2001@> >> wrote: >>> >>> No, I'm not applying magic or anything, just doing what the good >>> doctor told me to do. This is a straight quote from Roy >>> Harrington: "For Windows where it's necessary to save a tiff > file, >>> you should Convert to Profile using either Gray Matte Paper or > Gray >>> Photo Paper. Then save the file for printing in QTRgui." >> >> I know. I read that section over and over again. And I tried it > when >> I started off with QTR. But 1) I conceptually don't understand it, > 2) >> it gave me worse results, 3) when asking Roy's advice in this, he >> suggested me "to do whatever gives the best results". >> >> And that's probably the best advice to you as well. There seems to > be >> no "best" workflow. By now I've seen many different ones. One way > or >> another you now seem to have found a workflow that works for you. >> Perhaps just stick to it and have fun with printing. >> >> Joost >> > > > - Roy Harrington roy@... Black & White Photo Gallery http://www.harrington.com
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Re: [QuadtoneRIP] Re: Why are Epson 2200 prints too dark
2007-03-08 by Roy Harrington
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