Vintage Simmons Drums (UK) Users Group

Has anyone converted an SDSV mark II pad to a mark I pad?  Is it as
simple as removing the rubber overlay and replacing the polycarbonate
surface? How have you dealt with the gap between the hard surface and
the aluminum trim once the rubber was removed?

Thanks



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

it's almost as simple. If there is still the polycarbonat surface
underneath the rubber, you can probably leave it and polish the dried
glue away. This worked fine with some of mine. On some of the Mark II
pads, the rubber was directly glued onto the plywood. In this case you
need to cut yourself new surfaces. If you want black ones, take
transparent 1.5-2mm polycarbonate (known as "Lexan" or "Makrolon") and
spray them from the bottom with a flexibel paint. To stick it back
onto the wood, use a thinner free glue or the glue may resolve the
paint. If you want to make "original" white surfaces, use 1.5-2mm PVC
foil (which I guess was als used in black for some black faced Mark I
pad series). The PVC foil is even better to process as you don't need
to paint it. It's not as mirror finished as polycarbonate, but still
looks nice and works perfect as well. And you may use thinner
containing glues.

Concerning the gap: Size it and choose the thickness of the
polycarbonate/PVC material by the result of the sizing.
Make sure that once you have removed the rubber that the wood surface
it not to damaged, otherwise you might get less trigger signals where
sticks of woodare ripped of. It should be almost plain.

--- In Simmons_Drums@yahoogroups.com, "monzarottie" <roger.davis@...>
wrote:

>
> 
> Has anyone converted an SDSV mark II pad to a mark I pad?  Is it as
> simple as removing the rubber overlay and replacing the polycarbonate
> surface? How have you dealt with the gap between the hard surface and
> the aluminum trim once the rubber was removed?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Great advice.  Thanks so much!

  [:D]

--- In Simmons_Drums@yahoogroups.com, "superwolle70" <superwolle70@...>
wrote:
>
> it's almost as simple. If there is still the polycarbonat surface
> underneath the rubber, you can probably leave it and polish the dried
> glue away. This worked fine with some of mine. On some of the Mark II
> pads, the rubber was directly glued onto the plywood. In this case you
> need to cut yourself new surfaces. If you want black ones, take
> transparent 1.5-2mm polycarbonate (known as "Lexan" or "Makrolon") and
> spray them from the bottom with a flexibel paint. To stick it back
> onto the wood, use a thinner free glue or the glue may resolve the
> paint. If you want to make "original" white surfaces, use 1.5-2mm PVC
> foil (which I guess was als used in black for some black faced Mark I
> pad series). The PVC foil is even better to process as you don't need
> to paint it. It's not as mirror finished as polycarbonate, but still
> looks nice and works perfect as well. And you may use thinner
> containing glues.
>
> Concerning the gap: Size it and choose the thickness of the
> polycarbonate/PVC material by the result of the sizing.
> Make sure that once you have removed the rubber that the wood surface
> it not to damaged, otherwise you might get less trigger signals where
> sticks of woodare ripped of. It should be almost plain.
>
> --- In Simmons_Drums@yahoogroups.com, "monzarottie" roger.davis@
> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Has anyone converted an SDSV mark II pad to a mark I pad? Is it as
> > simple as removing the rubber overlay and replacing the
polycarbonate
> > surface? How have you dealt with the gap between the hard surface
and
> > the aluminum trim once the rubber was removed?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Actually, my personal research has revealed quite different results than the advice given here. While I do not wish to get into a huge and worthless debate, I will be happy to help anyone as far as restoring the SDSV series pads to their original factory condition from both a cosmetic as well as functional condition. I also have materials on hand just in case anyone either is not too handy or simply do not have the time to restore their drums.
Anyone is more than welcome to email me off-list for details I am more than happy to share.


- Roland
http://www.myspace.com/roland_brenner
 
PS - Does anyone have knowlege to share regarding a SCSI zip drive to SDX console interface?
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]