Rhodes Chroma Polaris

Thanks for all that info and advice Paul!

I've done everything you suggested (except reprogramming the EPROMS because I don't have a programmer), and am about to put everything back together. 

I'm wondering now if you think it advisable to remove the sockets (that the ribbons attach to), from the PCB so the ribbon connection ends don't need to bend to attach to them. This is what I did on my previous Polaris restoration where I DIDN'T replace the panels, but instead trimmed all the ribbon connectors shorter (past where they were cracking), and removed all the sockets from the PCB so those trimmed ribbon connectors wouldn't have to bend at all. I know these are new panels I've installed, but I'm still thinking perhaps they'll live longer if they aren't made to bend in a U to connect to the sockets. 

As a complete aside, if you ever had a few replacement panels made with that original ARP-y yellow/orange/red color scheme I'd buy another set in a heartbeat!

Cheers,
James

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 27, 2014, at 12:50, "'Paul D. DeRocco' pderocco@... [chromapolaris]" <chromapolaris@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
> 
> > From: James Meagher
> > 
> > I have acquired Polaris SN 300030 in a state of limited 
> > functionality (it makes noise, but that's about it), and am 
> > wondering if I should look out for anything specific with 
> > such an early SN while I have it open and am replacing the 
> > membrane panels, batteries, and giving it a good clean?
> 
> Reseat connectors, and perhaps even socketed chips. Measure power supply
> voltages (and check for ripple if you have access to a scope). Do all
> calibrations. Take apart the keyboard and clean the boards and the insides
> of the dome switches. If you have access to an EPROM programmer, reprogram
> the EPROMs to make sure they're not fading or have old buggy code.
> 
> > Also, I am interested in replacing all the LEDs with white or 
> > blue ones, but am having difficulty finding a suitable 
> > replacement in those colours that won't be blindingly bright 
> > in a dimly lit room (made that mistake with my last Polaris 
> > refurb). Curious if anyone has any ideas on this?
> 
> The LEDs are driven directly off LS-TTL shift registers, with no
> resistors. This is the absolute cheapest way to drive LEDs, but you can't
> really know how bright a particular LED will be without trying it. You'll
> just have to buy one of each LED that you can find in that package, and
> try them out.
> 
> > P.S. Did anything ever come of the redesigned output board 
> > that was once being talked about?
> 
> No. However, I'll be doing a small production run of my Digital Chroma
> boards in the next couple of months, and I'll bug my friend to include his
> little board in the order. He's just been busy with other stuff.
> 
> -- 
> 
> Ciao, Paul D. DeRocco
> Paul mailto:pderocco@... 
> 
>