Datacolor User to User Support Group.

To keep the facts straight:
--Dell Imspiron Laptop running WIN 7, with all updates posted
--Screen profiled with Spyder3Pro 4.0.2 updated yesterday and calibrated yesterday
--I calibrate for white using the cradle for the Spectro and pressing firmly...press the button and hear the "click"
--Printed profiles for hahnemuhle papers via Epson drivers, no color control
----Hahnemuhle Fine Art Baryta
----Hahnemuhle Fine Art Pearl White

In each case so far, the profiles printed well, matching the target on the screen.

I use the patch check mode to scan the targets.  In each case, after using the Spectro, the scanned patches show dark on the computer monitor.  The blacks scan toward the dark gray side.

The Proof mode shows the soft proof not as vibrant as the as the other images in the test screen.  Kind of very slightly faded.

Out of curiousity, I printed images to the papers.  The color is fine, though in each situation, the images are darker than the screen.  Not a mess, but slightly darker.

A new question... when I print a black and white print, should I use the scanned and saved profile for the type of paper that I want to print on, or as I have always done in the past, select gamma 2.2 (which gave me wonderful blacks and gray scale)

Thank you

Bruce Panock

On Aug 18, 2010, at 1:09 PM, brucepanock@... wrote:

> To keep the facts straight:
> --Dell Imspiron Laptop running WIN 7, with all updates posted
> --Screen profiled with Spyder3Pro 4.0.2 updated yesterday and calibrated yesterday
> --I calibrate for white using the cradle for the Spectro and pressing firmly...press the button and hear the "click"
> --Printed profiles for hahnemuhle papers via Epson drivers, no color control
> ----Hahnemuhle Fine Art Baryta
> ----Hahnemuhle Fine Art Pearl White
> 
> In each case so far, the profiles printed well, matching the target on the screen.
> 

That sounds good. The only other comment to make is that you don't want to use the
target itself as a test when printing; many of the patches are out-of-gamut. Always
use real-world images for print tests - you can start with our samples if you like,
and then (of course) use your own.

> I use the patch check mode to scan the targets. In each case, after using the Spectro, the scanned patches show dark on the computer monitor. The blacks scan toward the dark gray side.
> 

They should. Use "Measured" display mode when scanning the patches. The "Pure" display mode
(which is also the upper left corner of the display when you're in "Split" display mode) is
always going to be brighter and "prettier" than the actual patch scans because these are the
raw RGB reference colors that are printed -without color management- on the printer. The
act of doing that produces non-color-managed patches from those reference colors, and these
are normally "dark".

> The Proof mode shows the soft proof not as vibrant as the as the other images in the test screen. Kind of very slightly faded.
> 

That's expected, particularly for matte papers, where the measurements for the shadows and black
aren't as dark as for glossy/luster papers. If you softproof in Photoshop, you can get some
of your contrast back by turning black ink and paper white simulation off. (Spyder3Print doesn't
currently have the ability to do that in its softproof)

> Out of curiousity, I printed images to the papers. The color is fine, though in each situation, the images are darker than the screen. Not a mess, but slightly darker.
> 

Slightly darker is within reason; small differences in brightness are usually a function of the
brightness of your calibrated display AND how intense your viewing light source is.

> A new question... when I print a black and white print, should I use the scanned and saved profile for the type of paper that I want to print on, or as I have always done in the past, select gamma 2.2 (which gave me wonderful blacks and gray scale)
> 

You can print B&W the same way that you print color; just think of grayscale as being a special
case of color. Use the printer profile and you should get pleasing results plus the ability to
softproof.


David Miller
Senior Software Developer, Digital Color Solutions
Datacolor

David

I have printed the same image using the profiles developed for Daguerre 
Canvas, Fine Art Pearl, and Fine Art Baryta 325 gsm); all Hahnemuhle papers.  In 
all three cases the images look exactly the same as to color...each of them is 
slightly dark, as best I can tell to the same degree.  I am printing a target 
and will test the Rag Bright White 310 gsm this evening.  If, as I expect, the 
same result shows, then I know how to fix any issues by lightening the print 
image.  There appear to be no color issues (there were color shifts before 
I profiled the printer).

Following the Spyder3Pro instructions, I am using 6500K, and 2.2 gamma (which 
basically maxes out my brightness factor on the laptop monitor).

The B&W image I printed earlier comes on the Pearl profile comes across with a 
very light sepia tone.  This not what the screen shows.  Thoughts?  I will try 
this same image on the Rag paper later to see if the result is the same or get 
the try blacks and grays that I am used to getting.

If I may, maybe some of the advice you've shared might be included in the 
instructions. I appreciate your help.

Progress... Thank you
 Many thanks 


B
917-287-8589 




________________________________

From: David Miller <dm2363@...>
To: datacolor_group@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wed, August 18, 2010 2:27:09 PM
Subject: Re: [datacolor_group] Update to Hahnemuhle Papers and EPSON 4000

  

On Aug 18, 2010, at 1:09 PM, brucepanock@... wrote:

> To keep the facts straight:
> --Dell Imspiron Laptop running WIN 7, with all updates posted
> --Screen profiled with Spyder3Pro 4.0.2 updated yesterday and calibrated 
>yesterday
> --I calibrate for white using the cradle for the Spectro and pressing 
>firmly...press the button and hear the "click"
> --Printed profiles for hahnemuhle papers via Epson drivers, no color control
> ----Hahnemuhle Fine Art Baryta
> ----Hahnemuhle Fine Art Pearl White
> 
> In each case so far, the profiles printed well, matching the target on the 
>screen.
> 

That sounds good. The only other comment to make is that you don't want to use 
the
target itself as a test when printing; many of the patches are out-of-gamut. 
Always
use real-world images for print tests - you can start with our samples if you 
like,
and then (of course) use your own.

> I use the patch check mode to scan the targets. In each case, after using the 
>Spectro, the scanned patches show dark on the computer monitor. The blacks scan 
>toward the dark gray side.
> 

They should. Use "Measured" display mode when scanning the patches. The "Pure" 
display mode
(which is also the upper left corner of the display when you're in "Split" 
display mode) is
always going to be brighter and "prettier" than the actual patch scans because 
these are the
raw RGB reference colors that are printed -without color management- on the 
printer. The
act of doing that produces non-color-managed patches from those reference 
colors, and these
are normally "dark".

> The Proof mode shows the soft proof not as vibrant as the as the other images 
>in the test screen. Kind of very slightly faded.
> 

That's expected, particularly for matte papers, where the measurements for the 
shadows and black
aren't as dark as for glossy/luster papers. If you softproof in Photoshop, you 
can get some
of your contrast back by turning black ink and paper white simulation off. 
(Spyder3Print doesn't
currently have the ability to do that in its softproof)

> Out of curiousity, I printed images to the papers. The color is fine, though in 
>each situation, the images are darker than the screen. Not a mess, but slightly 
>darker.
> 

Slightly darker is within reason; small differences in brightness are usually a 
function of the
brightness of your calibrated display AND how intense your viewing light source 
is.

> A new question... when I print a black and white print, should I use the 
>scanned and saved profile for the type of paper that I want to print on, or as I 
>have always done in the past, select gamma 2.2 (which gave me wonderful blacks 
>and gray scale)
> 

You can print B&W the same way that you print color; just think of grayscale as 
being a special
case of color. Use the printer profile and you should get pleasing results plus 
the ability to
softproof.

David Miller
Senior Software Developer, Digital Color Solutions
Datacolor