K5synth

Hi everyone, new updates about the ROM upgrades.

I got the chip last week and successfully programmed one of them a few
minutes ago. It's in one of my K5s and it's working. (Which means I'll
be able to order all the chips shortly) Any new ROM requests are still
accepted.

The other chip I ordered for my 2nd K5, for some reason, got killed by
the programmer, burning two transistors on the programmer itself at
the same time. I suspect that it's caused by the computer that I
initially tried to program the chip with, it was probably sending
strange commands on the parallel port due to the crippled HP printer
drivers. All I know is that I will not try programming ROMs anymore on
that computer.

Antoine, Moderator.

Howdy,

 As you probably already know, my k5 came DOA. It only
displays k5single on ALL the presets and the whirly
wheel does nothing when trying to alter midi stuff.
The battery is a healthy 3.05 volts, but it only plays
one sound. I think the place to start is with a new
eprom. Please let me know about cost and payment
method. Thanx
Rig


--- antdes45 <antdes45@...> wrote:

> Hi everyone, new updates about the ROM upgrades.
> 
> I got the chip last week and successfully programmed
> one of them a few
> minutes ago. It's in one of my K5s and it's working.
> (Which means I'll
> be able to order all the chips shortly) Any new ROM
> requests are still
> accepted.
> 
> The other chip I ordered for my 2nd K5, for some
> reason, got killed by
> the programmer, burning two transistors on the
> programmer itself at
> the same time. I suspect that it's caused by the
> computer that I
> initially tried to program the chip with, it was
> probably sending
> strange commands on the parallel port due to the
> crippled HP printer
> drivers. All I know is that I will not try
> programming ROMs anymore on
> that computer.
> 
> Antoine, Moderator.
> 
> 



       
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Well, the K5SINGLE thing is normal if the synth was reset by the seller 
or you, but not the dead wheel.

I'm not sure the EPROM will help since the wheel just doesn't work in 
your case, which is a problem I never saw with V1.0 K5s, and you even 
said that you reset the synth. Have you already opened the synth(There 
are two screws going in the cover on each sides that need to be 
removed)? Could you make sure that the wheel is well connected to the 
board at the right? Some solders and wires could be cracked/broken too, 
the one under the LCD panel for example.

Antoine

bill bigrig a \ufffdcrit :

> Howdy,
>
>  As you probably already know, my k5 came DOA. It only
> displays k5single on ALL the presets and the whirly
> wheel does nothing when trying to alter midi stuff.
> The battery is a healthy 3.05 volts, but it only plays
> one sound. I think the place to start is with a new
> eprom. Please let me know about cost and payment
> method. Thanx
> Rig
>
>
> --- antdes45 <antdes45@...> wrote:
>
>   
>> Hi everyone, new updates about the ROM upgrades.
>>
>> I got the chip last week and successfully programmed
>> one of them a few
>> minutes ago. It's in one of my K5s and it's working.
>> (Which means I'll
>> be able to order all the chips shortly) Any new ROM
>> requests are still
>> accepted.
>>
>> The other chip I ordered for my 2nd K5, for some
>> reason, got killed by
>> the programmer, burning two transistors on the
>> programmer itself at
>> the same time. I suspect that it's caused by the
>> computer that I
>> initially tried to program the chip with, it was
>> probably sending
>> strange commands on the parallel port due to the
>> crippled HP printer
>> drivers. All I know is that I will not try
>> programming ROMs anymore on
>> that computer.
>>
>> Antoine, Moderator.
>>

Howdy,

 Yes,I've openedthe synth. The connections around the
wheel area look good upon cursory examination. i'll
have to inspect more closeley. How do I get sounds
back into the machine? It only has one and every sound
on the disply is identical. It has one dead key and 4
slugish ones, but I don't think I'l have any problem
fixing that. My main issue is the wheel and lack of
mulyiple sounds. Plus, I would like to upgrade the
system to a later version just for the heck of it. I
don't know if the lithium battery went dead and was
relaced or not, but the present one is a solid3+ volts
and looks faily new. Any chance the battery died and
lost all the firmware/ THANX!!!
Rig


--- Antoine Desch\ufffdnes <antdes45@...> wrote:

> Well, the K5SINGLE thing is normal if the synth was
> reset by the seller 
> or you, but not the dead wheel.
> 
> I'm not sure the EPROM will help since the wheel
> just doesn't work in 
> your case, which is a problem I never saw with V1.0
> K5s, and you even 
> said that you reset the synth. Have you already
> opened the synth(There 
> are two screws going in the cover on each sides that
> need to be 
> removed)? Could you make sure that the wheel is well
> connected to the 
> board at the right? Some solders and wires could be
> cracked/broken too, 
> the one under the LCD panel for example.
> 
> Antoine
> 
> bill bigrig a \ufffdcrit :
> > Howdy,
> >
> >  As you probably already know, my k5 came DOA. It
> only
> > displays k5single on ALL the presets and the
> whirly
> > wheel does nothing when trying to alter midi
> stuff.
> > The battery is a healthy 3.05 volts, but it only
> plays
> > one sound. I think the place to start is with a
> new
> > eprom. Please let me know about cost and payment
> > method. Thanx
> > Rig
> >
> >
> > --- antdes45 <antdes45@...> wrote:
> >
> >   
> >> Hi everyone, new updates about the ROM upgrades.
> >>
> >> I got the chip last week and successfully
> programmed
> >> one of them a few
> >> minutes ago. It's in one of my K5s and it's
> working.
> >> (Which means I'll
> >> be able to order all the chips shortly) Any new
> ROM
> >> requests are still
> >> accepted.
> >>
> >> The other chip I ordered for my 2nd K5, for some
> >> reason, got killed by
> >> the programmer, burning two transistors on the
> >> programmer itself at
> >> the same time. I suspect that it's caused by the
> >> computer that I
> >> initially tried to program the chip with, it was
> >> probably sending
> >> strange commands on the parallel port due to the
> >> crippled HP printer
> >> drivers. All I know is that I will not try
> >> programming ROMs anymore on
> >> that computer.
> >>
> >> Antoine, Moderator.
> >>     
> 



       
____________________________________________________________________________________Luggage? GPS? Comic books? 
Check out fitting gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search
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If the battery doesn't work, you'll just lose your sounds every times
you start the synth. The ROM can't be damaged from normal use. I'd try
to reseat(disconnect, connect) the cables related to the switch and
wheels if I was you.

To put back sounds you'll need the wheel to work : You have to go in
the midi menu to enable SysEx receiving and transmission, which is
sadly impossible for you right now.

But if the buttons work and not the wheel, the interface should still
work, unless you have an hardware problem somewhere...

OK, I looked at the schematic(All the following is about the MI-003
circuit board). The two wheel encoder signals pass through three 74HC
logic ICs to end in the same data lines as the LCD(The CPU seems to
use the same data port for both) If your LCD works, the problem is
more likely to be situated with the logic(Two 74HC365 and a 74HC74) or
the wheel encoder itself.

The encoder signals pass through R10 and R8 to go in U9, then U12 and
U7. Maybe you could try to see if the signal actually gets to R8 and
R10?
In my case, I briefly get some pulses on R8 and R10 while I turn the
wheel.(The encoder uses pulse switches)

And now, on the MI-008 board, the two bottom pins should feed 5v to
the encoder, and the top ones just send pulses when it's turning.

2007/5/26, bill bigrig <billbigrig@...>:
> Howdy,
>
>  Yes,I've openedthe synth. The connections around the
> wheel area look good upon cursory examination. i'll
> have to inspect more closeley. How do I get sounds
> back into the machine? It only has one and every sound
> on the disply is identical. It has one dead key and 4
> slugish ones, but I don't think I'l have any problem
> fixing that. My main issue is the wheel and lack of
> mulyiple sounds. Plus, I would like to upgrade the
> system to a later version just for the heck of it. I
> don't know if the lithium battery went dead and was
> relaced or not, but the present one is a solid3+ volts
> and looks faily new. Any chance the battery died and
> lost all the firmware/ THANX!!!
> Rig
>
>
> --- Antoine Deschênes <antdes45@...> wrote:
>
> > Well, the K5SINGLE thing is normal if the synth was
> > reset by the seller
> > or you, but not the dead wheel.
> >
> > I'm not sure the EPROM will help since the wheel
> > just doesn't work in
> > your case, which is a problem I never saw with V1.0
> > K5s, and you even
> > said that you reset the synth. Have you already
> > opened the synth(There
> > are two screws going in the cover on each sides that
> > need to be
> > removed)? Could you make sure that the wheel is well
> > connected to the
> > board at the right? Some solders and wires could be
> > cracked/broken too,
> > the one under the LCD panel for example.
> >
> > Antoine
> >
> > bill bigrig a écrit :
> > > Howdy,
> > >
> > >  As you probably already know, my k5 came DOA. It
> > only
> > > displays k5single on ALL the presets and the
> > whirly
> > > wheel does nothing when trying to alter midi
> > stuff.
> > > The battery is a healthy 3.05 volts, but it only
> > plays
> > > one sound. I think the place to start is with a
> > new
> > > eprom. Please let me know about cost and payment
> > > method. Thanx
> > > Rig
> > >
> > >
> > > --- antdes45 <antdes45@...> wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > >> Hi everyone, new updates about the ROM upgrades.
> > >>
> > >> I got the chip last week and successfully
> > programmed
> > >> one of them a few
> > >> minutes ago. It's in one of my K5s and it's
> > working.
> > >> (Which means I'll
> > >> be able to order all the chips shortly) Any new
> > ROM
> > >> requests are still
> > >> accepted.
> > >>
> > >> The other chip I ordered for my 2nd K5, for some
> > >> reason, got killed by
> > >> the programmer, burning two transistors on the
> > >> programmer itself at
> > >> the same time. I suspect that it's caused by the
> > >> computer that I
> > >> initially tried to program the chip with, it was
> > >> probably sending
> > >> strange commands on the parallel port due to the
> > >> crippled HP printer
> > >> drivers. All I know is that I will not try
> > >> programming ROMs anymore on
> > >> that computer.
> > >>
> > >> Antoine, Moderator.
> > >>
> >
>
>
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________________________Luggage? GPS? Comic books?
> Check out fitting gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search
> http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=oni_on_mail&p=graduation+gifts&cs=bz
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>


-- 
Antoine Deschênes

Howdy,

 You say to diconnect then reconnect the battery? I
forgot. The rest of your tips, I will try, and THANK
YOU for this valuable info. i will do these tests and
get back to you. THANX AGAIN!!!!
Rig


--- Antoine Desch\ufffdnes <antdes45@...> wrote:

> If the battery doesn't work, you'll just lose your
> sounds every times
> you start the synth. The ROM can't be damaged from
> normal use. I'd try
> to reseat(disconnect, connect) the cables related to
> the switch and
> wheels if I was you.
> 
> To put back sounds you'll need the wheel to work :
> You have to go in
> the midi menu to enable SysEx receiving and
> transmission, which is
> sadly impossible for you right now.
> 
> But if the buttons work and not the wheel, the
> interface should still
> work, unless you have an hardware problem
> somewhere...
> 
> OK, I looked at the schematic(All the following is
> about the MI-003
> circuit board). The two wheel encoder signals pass
> through three 74HC
> logic ICs to end in the same data lines as the
> LCD(The CPU seems to
> use the same data port for both) If your LCD works,
> the problem is
> more likely to be situated with the logic(Two
> 74HC365 and a 74HC74) or
> the wheel encoder itself.
> 
> The encoder signals pass through R10 and R8 to go in
> U9, then U12 and
> U7. Maybe you could try to see if the signal
> actually gets to R8 and
> R10?
> In my case, I briefly get some pulses on R8 and R10
> while I turn the
> wheel.(The encoder uses pulse switches)
> 
> And now, on the MI-008 board, the two bottom pins
> should feed 5v to
> the encoder, and the top ones just send pulses when
> it's turning.
> 
> 2007/5/26, bill bigrig <billbigrig@...>:
> > Howdy,
> >
> >  Yes,I've openedthe synth. The connections around
> the
> > wheel area look good upon cursory examination.
> i'll
> > have to inspect more closeley. How do I get sounds
> > back into the machine? It only has one and every
> sound
> > on the disply is identical. It has one dead key
> and 4
> > slugish ones, but I don't think I'l have any
> problem
> > fixing that. My main issue is the wheel and lack
> of
> > mulyiple sounds. Plus, I would like to upgrade the
> > system to a later version just for the heck of it.
> I
> > don't know if the lithium battery went dead and
> was
> > relaced or not, but the present one is a solid3+
> volts
> > and looks faily new. Any chance the battery died
> and
> > lost all the firmware/ THANX!!!
> > Rig
> >
> >
> > --- Antoine Desch\ufffdnes <antdes45@...> wrote:
> >
> > > Well, the K5SINGLE thing is normal if the synth
> was
> > > reset by the seller
> > > or you, but not the dead wheel.
> > >
> > > I'm not sure the EPROM will help since the wheel
> > > just doesn't work in
> > > your case, which is a problem I never saw with
> V1.0
> > > K5s, and you even
> > > said that you reset the synth. Have you already
> > > opened the synth(There
> > > are two screws going in the cover on each sides
> that
> > > need to be
> > > removed)? Could you make sure that the wheel is
> well
> > > connected to the
> > > board at the right? Some solders and wires could
> be
> > > cracked/broken too,
> > > the one under the LCD panel for example.
> > >
> > > Antoine
> > >
> > > bill bigrig a \ufffdcrit :
> > > > Howdy,
> > > >
> > > >  As you probably already know, my k5 came DOA.
> It
> > > only
> > > > displays k5single on ALL the presets and the
> > > whirly
> > > > wheel does nothing when trying to alter midi
> > > stuff.
> > > > The battery is a healthy 3.05 volts, but it
> only
> > > plays
> > > > one sound. I think the place to start is with
> a
> > > new
> > > > eprom. Please let me know about cost and
> payment
> > > > method. Thanx
> > > > Rig
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --- antdes45 <antdes45@...> wrote:
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >> Hi everyone, new updates about the ROM
> upgrades.
> > > >>
> > > >> I got the chip last week and successfully
> > > programmed
> > > >> one of them a few
> > > >> minutes ago. It's in one of my K5s and it's
> > > working.
> > > >> (Which means I'll
> > > >> be able to order all the chips shortly) Any
> new
> > > ROM
> > > >> requests are still
> > > >> accepted.
> > > >>
> > > >> The other chip I ordered for my 2nd K5, for
> some
> > > >> reason, got killed by
> > > >> the programmer, burning two transistors on
> the
> > > >> programmer itself at
> > > >> the same time. I suspect that it's caused by
> the
> > > >> computer that I
> > > >> initially tried to program the chip with, it
> was
> > > >> probably sending
> > > >> strange commands on the parallel port due to
> the
> > > >> crippled HP printer
> > > >> drivers. All I know is that I will not try
> > > >> programming ROMs anymore on
> > > >> that computer.
> > > >>
> > > >> Antoine, Moderator.
> > > >>
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
____________________________________________________________________________________Luggage?
> GPS? Comic books?
> > Check out fitting gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search
> >
>
http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=oni_on_mail&p=graduation+gifts&cs=bz
> >
> >
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> 
> 
> -- 
> Antoine Desch\ufffdnes
> 



       
____________________________________________________________________________________Luggage? GPS? Comic books? 
Check out fitting gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search
http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=oni_on_mail&p=graduation+gifts&cs=bz

bill bigrig a \ufffdcrit :
> Howdy,
>
>  You say to diconnect then reconnect the battery?
Yes, that's the only way to reset the RAM. I said a while ago to 
disconnect and reconnect the battery to reset the synth, and I just said 
to disconnect and reconnect the cables between MI-003 and the wheel.

> I forgot. The rest of your tips, I will try, and THANK
> YOU for this valuable info. i will do these tests and
> get back to you. THANX AGAIN!!!!
> Rig
>
>
> --- Antoine Desch\ufffdnes <antdes45@...> wrote:
>
>   
>> If the battery doesn't work, you'll just lose your
>> sounds every times
>> you start the synth. The ROM can't be damaged from
>> normal use. I'd try
>> to reseat(disconnect, connect) the cables related to
>> the switch and
>> wheels if I was you.
>>
>> To put back sounds you'll need the wheel to work :
>> You have to go in
>> the midi menu to enable SysEx receiving and
>> transmission, which is
>> sadly impossible for you right now.
>>
>> But if the buttons work and not the wheel, the
>> interface should still
>> work, unless you have an hardware problem
>> somewhere...
>>
>> OK, I looked at the schematic(All the following is
>> about the MI-003
>> circuit board). The two wheel encoder signals pass
>> through three 74HC
>> logic ICs to end in the same data lines as the
>> LCD(The CPU seems to
>> use the same data port for both) If your LCD works,
>> the problem is
>> more likely to be situated with the logic(Two
>> 74HC365 and a 74HC74) or
>> the wheel encoder itself.
>>
>> The encoder signals pass through R10 and R8 to go in
>> U9, then U12 and
>> U7. Maybe you could try to see if the signal
>> actually gets to R8 and
>> R10?
>> In my case, I briefly get some pulses on R8 and R10
>> while I turn the
>> wheel.(The encoder uses pulse switches)
>>
>> And now, on the MI-008 board, the two bottom pins
>> should feed 5v to
>> the encoder, and the top ones just send pulses when
>> it's turning.
>>

Howdy,

 Assuming I get the wheel working,9the cursor switches
do work), how do I com up with a source for the
original sounds to load with system exclusive? Thanx.
Rig

--- Antoine Desch\ufffdnes <antdes45@...> wrote:

> bill bigrig a \ufffdcrit :
> > Howdy,
> >
> >  You say to diconnect then reconnect the battery?
> Yes, that's the only way to reset the RAM. I said a
> while ago to 
> disconnect and reconnect the battery to reset the
> synth, and I just said 
> to disconnect and reconnect the cables between
> MI-003 and the wheel.
> > I forgot. The rest of your tips, I will try, and
> THANK
> > YOU for this valuable info. i will do these tests
> and
> > get back to you. THANX AGAIN!!!!
> > Rig
> >
> >
> > --- Antoine Desch\ufffdnes <antdes45@...> wrote:
> >
> >   
> >> If the battery doesn't work, you'll just lose
> your
> >> sounds every times
> >> you start the synth. The ROM can't be damaged
> from
> >> normal use. I'd try
> >> to reseat(disconnect, connect) the cables related
> to
> >> the switch and
> >> wheels if I was you.
> >>
> >> To put back sounds you'll need the wheel to work
> :
> >> You have to go in
> >> the midi menu to enable SysEx receiving and
> >> transmission, which is
> >> sadly impossible for you right now.
> >>
> >> But if the buttons work and not the wheel, the
> >> interface should still
> >> work, unless you have an hardware problem
> >> somewhere...
> >>
> >> OK, I looked at the schematic(All the following
> is
> >> about the MI-003
> >> circuit board). The two wheel encoder signals
> pass
> >> through three 74HC
> >> logic ICs to end in the same data lines as the
> >> LCD(The CPU seems to
> >> use the same data port for both) If your LCD
> works,
> >> the problem is
> >> more likely to be situated with the logic(Two
> >> 74HC365 and a 74HC74) or
> >> the wheel encoder itself.
> >>
> >> The encoder signals pass through R10 and R8 to go
> in
> >> U9, then U12 and
> >> U7. Maybe you could try to see if the signal
> >> actually gets to R8 and
> >> R10?
> >> In my case, I briefly get some pulses on R8 and
> R10
> >> while I turn the
> >> wheel.(The encoder uses pulse switches)
> >>
> >> And now, on the MI-008 board, the two bottom pins
> >> should feed 5v to
> >> the encoder, and the top ones just send pulses
> when
> >> it's turning.
> >>     
> 
> 



 
____________________________________________________________________________________
Don't pick lemons.
See all the new 2007 cars at Yahoo! Autos.
http://autos.yahoo.com/new_cars.html

Howdy,

 ichecked the data wheel connections al the way down
to the chassis cicuit board. Thay all conduct. All the
butons work. I tried jumpering the pins on the data
wheel contancts, but to no avail. I shot it with
circuit cleaner, but nothing. I notice that the
display blinks when turning in one diretion, but stays
steady the opposite way. Is there a way to simulate
the pulses from the data wheel? Either the wheel
doesn't work, or there is a problem on the lower
board. any ideas? Do I need a logic tester to test the
data wheel? Also where are the +/_ buttons that the
display says to press, or is it moving the data the
way to selct plus/minus. What is the first chip on the
board that the data wheel goes into and what should I
expect at the pinouts?
Thanx
Rig


--- bill bigrig <billbigrig@...> wrote:

> Howdy,
> 
>  Assuming I get the wheel working,9the cursor
> switches
> do work), how do I com up with a source for the
> original sounds to load with system exclusive?
> Thanx.
> Rig
> 
> --- Antoine Desch\ufffdnes <antdes45@...> wrote:
> 
> > bill bigrig a \ufffdcrit :
> > > Howdy,
> > >
> > >  You say to diconnect then reconnect the
> battery?
> > Yes, that's the only way to reset the RAM. I said
> a
> > while ago to 
> > disconnect and reconnect the battery to reset the
> > synth, and I just said 
> > to disconnect and reconnect the cables between
> > MI-003 and the wheel.
> > > I forgot. The rest of your tips, I will try, and
> > THANK
> > > YOU for this valuable info. i will do these
> tests
> > and
> > > get back to you. THANX AGAIN!!!!
> > > Rig
> > >
> > >
> > > --- Antoine Desch\ufffdnes <antdes45@...> wrote:
> > >
> > >   
> > >> If the battery doesn't work, you'll just lose
> > your
> > >> sounds every times
> > >> you start the synth. The ROM can't be damaged
> > from
> > >> normal use. I'd try
> > >> to reseat(disconnect, connect) the cables
> related
> > to
> > >> the switch and
> > >> wheels if I was you.
> > >>
> > >> To put back sounds you'll need the wheel to
> work
> > :
> > >> You have to go in
> > >> the midi menu to enable SysEx receiving and
> > >> transmission, which is
> > >> sadly impossible for you right now.
> > >>
> > >> But if the buttons work and not the wheel, the
> > >> interface should still
> > >> work, unless you have an hardware problem
> > >> somewhere...
> > >>
> > >> OK, I looked at the schematic(All the following
> > is
> > >> about the MI-003
> > >> circuit board). The two wheel encoder signals
> > pass
> > >> through three 74HC
> > >> logic ICs to end in the same data lines as the
> > >> LCD(The CPU seems to
> > >> use the same data port for both) If your LCD
> > works,
> > >> the problem is
> > >> more likely to be situated with the logic(Two
> > >> 74HC365 and a 74HC74) or
> > >> the wheel encoder itself.
> > >>
> > >> The encoder signals pass through R10 and R8 to
> go
> > in
> > >> U9, then U12 and
> > >> U7. Maybe you could try to see if the signal
> > >> actually gets to R8 and
> > >> R10?
> > >> In my case, I briefly get some pulses on R8 and
> > R10
> > >> while I turn the
> > >> wheel.(The encoder uses pulse switches)
> > >>
> > >> And now, on the MI-008 board, the two bottom
> pins
> > >> should feed 5v to
> > >> the encoder, and the top ones just send pulses
> > when
> > >> it's turning.
> > >>     
> > 
> > 
> 
> 
> 
>  
>
____________________________________________________________________________________
> Don't pick lemons.
> See all the new 2007 cars at Yahoo! Autos.
> http://autos.yahoo.com/new_cars.html 
> 



 
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If the LCD flashes, it means that there's something getting to the data 
lines, but not correctly... Maybe cheesy logic, or signals that don't 
get to them. (Maybe a damaged PCB trace?)

The first chip where the wheel pulses go in is U9, a 74HC365 chip. Then, 
U12, a 74HC74, and finally, U7, an other 74HC365. I don'T know if it'S 
possible to simulate the wheel, but I'd change the three logic ICs 
first. I don't have my K5 and schematic in front of me, but I think that 
testing the logic is not really worth it. After all, it costs about 
$0.25 per chip, so changing them would be the easiest and cheapest 
solution.

When you remove chips in your K5, cut the pins with a cutter right next 
to the DIP plastic casing, remove the pins one by one and then use a 
desoldering pump to remove the remaining solder in every holes. It's 
long, and risky for the PCB, but it's the only way to remove a chip on 
these boards.

Antoine


bill bigrig a \ufffdcrit :

> Howdy,
>
>  ichecked the data wheel connections al the way down
> to the chassis cicuit board. Thay all conduct. All the
> butons work. I tried jumpering the pins on the data
> wheel contancts, but to no avail. I shot it with
> circuit cleaner, but nothing. I notice that the
> display blinks when turning in one diretion, but stays
> steady the opposite way. Is there a way to simulate
> the pulses from the data wheel? Either the wheel
> doesn't work, or there is a problem on the lower
> board. any ideas? Do I need a logic tester to test the
> data wheel? Also where are the +/_ buttons that the
> display says to press, or is it moving the data the
> way to selct plus/minus. What is the first chip on the
> board that the data wheel goes into and what should I
> expect at the pinouts?
> Thanx
> Rig
>
>
> --- bill bigrig <billbigrig@...> wrote:
>
>   
>> Howdy,
>>
>>  Assuming I get the wheel working,9the cursor
>> switches
>> do work), how do I com up with a source for the
>> original sounds to load with system exclusive?
>> Thanx.
>> Rig
>>
>> --- Antoine Desch\ufffdnes <antdes45@...> wrote:
>>
>>     
>>> bill bigrig a \ufffdcrit :
>>>       
>>>> Howdy,
>>>>
>>>>  You say to diconnect then reconnect the
>>>>         
>> battery?
>>     
>>> Yes, that's the only way to reset the RAM. I said
>>>       
>> a
>>     
>>> while ago to 
>>> disconnect and reconnect the battery to reset the
>>> synth, and I just said 
>>> to disconnect and reconnect the cables between
>>> MI-003 and the wheel.
>>>       
>>>> I forgot. The rest of your tips, I will try, and
>>>>         
>>> THANK
>>>       
>>>> YOU for this valuable info. i will do these
>>>>         
>> tests
>>     
>>> and
>>>       
>>>> get back to you. THANX AGAIN!!!!
>>>> Rig
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> --- Antoine Desch\ufffdnes <antdes45@...> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>   
>>>>         
>>>>> If the battery doesn't work, you'll just lose
>>>>>           
>>> your
>>>       
>>>>> sounds every times
>>>>> you start the synth. The ROM can't be damaged
>>>>>           
>>> from
>>>       
>>>>> normal use. I'd try
>>>>> to reseat(disconnect, connect) the cables
>>>>>           
>> related
>>     
>>> to
>>>       
>>>>> the switch and
>>>>> wheels if I was you.
>>>>>
>>>>> To put back sounds you'll need the wheel to
>>>>>           
>> work
>>     
>>> :
>>>       
>>>>> You have to go in
>>>>> the midi menu to enable SysEx receiving and
>>>>> transmission, which is
>>>>> sadly impossible for you right now.
>>>>>
>>>>> But if the buttons work and not the wheel, the
>>>>> interface should still
>>>>> work, unless you have an hardware problem
>>>>> somewhere...
>>>>>
>>>>> OK, I looked at the schematic(All the following
>>>>>           
>>> is
>>>       
>>>>> about the MI-003
>>>>> circuit board). The two wheel encoder signals
>>>>>           
>>> pass
>>>       
>>>>> through three 74HC
>>>>> logic ICs to end in the same data lines as the
>>>>> LCD(The CPU seems to
>>>>> use the same data port for both) If your LCD
>>>>>           
>>> works,
>>>       
>>>>> the problem is
>>>>> more likely to be situated with the logic(Two
>>>>> 74HC365 and a 74HC74) or
>>>>> the wheel encoder itself.
>>>>>
>>>>> The encoder signals pass through R10 and R8 to
>>>>>           
>> go
>>     
>>> in
>>>       
>>>>> U9, then U12 and
>>>>> U7. Maybe you could try to see if the signal
>>>>> actually gets to R8 and
>>>>> R10?
>>>>> In my case, I briefly get some pulses on R8 and
>>>>>           
>>> R10
>>>       
>>>>> while I turn the
>>>>> wheel.(The encoder uses pulse switches)
>>>>>
>>>>> And now, on the MI-008 board, the two bottom
>>>>>           
>> pins
>>     
>>>>> should feed 5v to
>>>>> the encoder, and the top ones just send pulses
>>>>>           
>>> when
>>>       
>>>>> it's turning.
>>>>>     
>>>>>           
>>>       
>>
>>  
>>
>>     
> ____________________________________________________________________________________
>   
>> Don't pick lemons.
>> See all the new 2007 cars at Yahoo! Autos.
>> http://autos.yahoo.com/new_cars.html 
>>
>>     
>
>
>
>  
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