MOTM

On 2/26/08, Scott put forth:
>
>Occasionally I'll find a cable that seems to exhibit a short to ground
>(symptom goes away when I wiggle it), but in every one of those cases
>I've noticed that one of the jack's outer connector/collar was loose
>and the problem goes away as soon as I tighten up the connector.

I haven't tested them to see if it is a short or discontinuous.
Although I can't see how a loose barrel could cause a short, as there
is an inner plastic sleeve that would prevent it from touching the
conductor.   While I have noticed that the barrels do indeed tend to
become loose with these cables, tightening them hasn't made a
difference.

On 2/26/08, Ti_ put forth:
>Also, it could be slight differences in the actual size of the plug
>and maybe the stooge plugs were just small enough that the don't get
>a solid connection with the jack, in which case you could just ever
>so slightly bend the jack connections in just a bit.

It could be a faulty connection with the jack, and my jiggling
resulted in a better connection.  However, I do not think it is the
fault of the jacks.  Firstly, I haven't had problems with any other
plugs.  Secondly, I use these cables with more than just my modular.
I use them with my patch bay, mixer, and an assortment of pedals from
around the world.

However, I did receive a private email from someone who had a similar
problem with intermittent cables, and suggested cleaning them first,
as he resoldered a bunch of patchcords before he figured out that was
the problem.

I have noticed that the barrels of these cables tend to show
fingerprints and look dirty very quickly.  I don't know if they are
the same metal as the business end of these plugs, but some metals
are more resistant to corrosion than others.

>I got some "clearance" guitar cables from Guitar Center once, took
>them home and the plugs wouldn't even fit into a 1/4" jack!  They
>were just big enough that you couldn't see the difference with the
>naked eye, but they sure don't work for S%#t.

They were likely military surplus, as there are numerous different
military specifications for 1/4" jacks that are longer or shorter, or
have a wider or different shaped tip, such as "B gauge" plugs.  Long
frame 1/4" jacks are used in some audio patchbays, but do not work
with regular 1/4" jacks.

On 2/26/08, Richard Brewster put forth:
>I wrapped all my Stooge cable threads with Teflon tape to stop them
>coming loose.

That's a good idea.  Just don't use so much tape that the barrel is
insulated from the sleeve as that would reduce its function as a
shield.  Teflon tape is intended to keep fluids from leaking.  The
correct thread locker (not the kind that requires heat to break) or
the application of sufficient torque would also work.

On 2/26/08, Dave Bradley put forth:
>I've never had any cable problems with my several dozen stooge cables.
>It is always important to unplug each cable by holding the plug
>barrel. If you pull on the wire instead, shame on you.

Oh, I wouldn't do that.

>I have however noticed that the plug diameter seems to be a bit
>slimmer than the corresponding switchcraft plug. So the connection
>with certain loose jacks could be a bit tenuous.

I know that Neutrik plugs are just a an eensy bit wider than
Switchcraft plugs, but it hasn't caused any problems.  I haven't
quite reached the point where I'm measuring these plugs with a dial
gauge :)

On 2/27/08, RRossen put forth:
>Yeah, I've had problems with the stooge cables too, intermittent and
>all.  The Teflon tape and/or LocTite will definitely work for the
>loose collars but really should have nothing to do with the cables
>being electrically intermittent.  The soldering looks fine but I'm
>thinking that perhaps the heat from soldering the braided shield has
>melted through partially to the inner conductor?!?!  It is a pain -
>especially when in the middle of patching up the next ultimate new
>sound!  I've been going thru the process of hitting all the cables
>and the module jacks with DeoxIT -D5 (expensive, but works great) -
>as all connections seem to have a slight oxidation process
>continually occurring.

Clearly, some metals are more inert better than others.  I have a
bunch of inexpensive Radio Shack 1/8" cables that I use with Roland
gear, that like these stooge cables, tend to turn very quickly.  I
also have a bunch of Neutrik 1/4" plugs -- some of which are almost
20 years old -- that are nickel-plated and have never needed
cleaning.  I haven't had any problems with the Switchcraft jacks in
my MOTM either, which are also nickel-plated.


Anyway, thanks to everyone for their response.