MOTM

>From: "Tentochi" <tentochi@...>
>
>I would still like to have a button on the LFO to manually retrigger the
>cycle.  As I said before, this is excellent for live
performance--especially
>ambient stuff.

You can just whack the SYNC jack.

>
>What are the final ranges for the high and low settings of the LFO?

It's on the NEWS page.
>
>I think all of the knobs should be in a vertical line.  Makes building
soooo
>much easier and enjoyable.

I will probably do this in the final version. I *really* don't like the
crowding that
occurs when the bottom pot and the top row, rightmost jack "collide". That's
why
I put the pot over to the left, so the "tick marks" are preserved.

What does everyone else think? Vote for easier to build, or move it over so
not to
get too close to the jack?

>
>Since I don't have any LEDed modules yet (bad Paul! Ha!), what kind base is
>around the LED or does the LED just stick through the panel.  FWIIW, I
>prefer a solid holder/base.

It is in a press-fit holder, with a flat lens. I *HATE* LEDs poking out of
holes. Cheezy PAiA crap.

>
>Could someone please repeat how the shape button affects the shape of the
>LFO curve?


It is a symmetry bias. Controls the "attack/release" ratio of the waveforms.
IE a triangle can be
thought of as a 50/50 ratio sawtooth.


Paul S.