MOTM

First thing to know about these brass inserts is that they are soft.
>The top is slotted to drive them with a screwdriver, and you will
>peel the tabs right off if you attempt to drive them into oak, even
>with the proper sized hole drilled. They need soft pine rails. Steel
>inserts would fare better.

Actually, the slots in the end of the brass inserts are for cutting into the 
wood you would like to put the insert in. (Or so my insert packaging says) 
You should put a 8 x 32 screw in the insert until all the way flush as deep 
as it can go. Then use this to screw the insert into the wood and unscrew 
the 8 x 32 out of the insert and voila... Now the insert is in the wood 
without the threads in the front. Sure, it might be difficult to get out, 
but it looks way better sitting in the wood. Just my opinion.

Thomas White

PS. I have a frack rack Paia Midi-2-CV converter (fully assembled) that 
needs a new home and a brand D A-199 spring reverb if anyone is interested. 
These would be fun to convert to MOTM, but my time free is not what it used 
to be these days. PRIVATE response please. (djthomaswhite@...)


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Once again, the list is way ahead of me. I just got back from Lowe's, 
where I purchased their entire stock of #8-32 brass inserts, 17 pair @ 
.83, enough for 8 1/2 modules (when are those half modules coming out? 
<g>). I mentioned wanting to make a bulk purchase to the cashier, but 
she didn't seem to want to play along. I guess I'll do what Moe did and 
take this to a Higher Authority. My plan is for a 24U wide cabinet, 
which will require 96 inserts if I want to have the abillity to place 1 
and 2U modules anywhere. Let's see, at .83 a pair, that's $39.84. Ouch. 
And I haven't even bought wood yet.

Thanks to Dave Hylander for both the Aarons link and the info on steel 
inserts at McMaster.com. More thanks to Thomas White on installing 
brass inserts using the screws themselves, as I assumed the slots were 
for that purpose.

Chuck

--- In motm@y..., "thomas white" <djthomaswhite@h...> wrote:

> First thing to know about these brass inserts is that they are soft.
> >The top is slotted to drive them with a screwdriver, and you will
> >peel the tabs right off if you attempt to drive them into oak, even
> >with the proper sized hole drilled. They need soft pine rails. Steel
> >inserts would fare better.
> 
> Actually, the slots in the end of the brass inserts are for cutting into the 
> wood you would like to put the insert in. (Or so my insert packaging says) 
> You should put a 8 x 32 screw in the insert until all the way flush as deep 
> as it can go. Then use this to screw the insert into the wood and unscrew 
> the 8 x 32 out of the insert and voila... Now the insert is in the wood 
> without the threads in the front. Sure, it might be difficult to get out, 
> but it looks way better sitting in the wood. Just my opinion.
> 
> Thomas White
> 
> PS. I have a frack rack Paia Midi-2-CV converter (fully assembled) that 
> needs a new home and a brand D A-199 spring reverb if anyone is interested. 
> These would be fun to convert to MOTM, but my time free is not what it used 
> to be these days. PRIVATE response please. (djthomaswhite@h...)
> 
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com