MOTM

I'm going through the parts received with the 510 kit and I noticed some discrepencies with the capacitors. 

1) The 10mfd 50V (polar) electrolytic caps (C4, C8, C15, and C16) are supposed to be orange according to the installation instructions. Mine are black with a grey stripe on the negative side. Mine are labeled as 10uf50v B0613 PET VZ(M). Are these okay?

2) The 10mfd 50V non-polar electrolytic caps (C1, C3, C5, and C13) are supposed to say NP on them (I'm assuming to indicate that they are non-polar). Mine are blue'ish, do not have a stripe (however they do have a long lead and a short lead), are identified as 10uf50v B.P. 64IOT, and do not say NP. Are these correct?

Thanks,
Jim


 
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----- Original Message -----

From: James Elliott

To: motm@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 9:03 AM

Subject: [motm] 510 Parts Question...

I'm going through the parts received with the 510 kit and I noticed some discrepencies with the capacitors.

1) The 10mfd 50V (polar) electrolytic caps (C4, C8, C15, and C16) are supposed to be orange according to the installation instructions. Mine are black with a grey stripe on the negative side. Mine are labeled as 10uf50v B0613 PET VZ(M). Are these okay?

2) The 10mfd 50V non-polar electrolytic caps (C1, C3, C5, and C13) are supposed to say NP on them (I'm assuming to indicate that they are non-polar). Mine are blue'ish, do not have a stripe (however they do have a long lead and a short lead), are identified as 10uf50v B.P. 64IOT, and do not say NP. Are these correct?

Thanks,

Jim

Check out the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta - Fire up a more powerful email and get things done faster.

To elaborate slightly on what Paul said:
 
1) cap colors are (almost always) irrelevant and change with the
manufacturer and other random influences. I don't know of any instance in
which the color of an electrolytic cap is meaningful. It's the capacitance
and voltage ratings (and the physical shape) which are relevant. Other cap
types seem to be differentiated by color but again this varies from one
manufacturer to another and cannot be depended upon.
 
2) I think B.P. designates Bi-Polar, which is another way of saying
non-polarized. I developed this theory last time I ordered non-polarized
caps, but it's only a theory.
 
--Adam
(often mystified by caps)


  _____  

From: Paul Schreiber [mailto:synth1@...] 
Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 8:08 AM
To: motm@yahoogroups.com; James Elliott
Subject: Re: [motm] 510 Parts Question...





Of course they are correct. 
 
Paul S.
 

----- Original Message ----- 
From: James  <mailto:johans121@...> Elliott 
To: motm@yahoogroups. <mailto:motm@yahoogroups.com> com 
Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 9:03 AM
Subject: [motm] 510 Parts Question...

I'm going through the parts received with the 510 kit and I noticed some
discrepencies with the capacitors. 
 
1) The 10mfd 50V (polar) electrolytic caps (C4, C8, C15, and C16) are
supposed to be orange according to the installation instructions. Mine are
black with a grey stripe on the negative side. Mine are labeled as 10uf50v
B0613 PET VZ(M). Are these okay?
 
2) The 10mfd 50V non-polar electrolytic caps (C1, C3, C5, and C13) are
supposed to say NP on them (I'm assuming to indicate that they are
non-polar). Mine are blue'ish, do not have a stripe (however they do have a
long lead and a short lead), are identified as 10uf50v B.P. 64IOT, and do
not say NP. Are these correct?
 
Thanks,
Jim

  _____  

Check out the
<http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=43257/*http://advision.webevents.yahoo.com/mailb
eta> all-new Yahoo! Mail beta - Fire up a more powerful email and get things
done faster.

Caps are the bane of my DIY existence.  Can't tell you how many times
I've gotten a Mouser packeage with HUGE caps instead of ones that fit.
 You'd think I would learn after so many years, but alas.

And don't EVEN get me started on pico to nano to micro.

Mike

--- In motm@yahoogroups.com, "Adam Schabtach" <adam@...> wrote:
>
> To elaborate slightly on what Paul said:
>  
> 1) cap colors are (almost always) irrelevant and change with the
> manufacturer and other random influences. I don't know of any
instance in
> which the color of an electrolytic cap is meaningful. It's the
capacitance
> and voltage ratings (and the physical shape) which are relevant.
Other cap
> types seem to be differentiated by color but again this varies from one
> manufacturer to another and cannot be depended upon.
>  
> 2) I think B.P. designates Bi-Polar, which is another way of saying
> non-polarized. I developed this theory last time I ordered non-polarized
> caps, but it's only a theory.
>  
> --Adam
> (often mystified by caps)
> 
> 
>   _____  
> 
> From: Paul Schreiber [mailto:synth1@...] 
> Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 8:08 AM
> To: motm@yahoogroups.com; James Elliott
> Subject: Re: [motm] 510 Parts Question...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course they are correct. 
>  
> Paul S.
>  
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: James  <mailto:johans121@...> Elliott 
> To: motm@yahoogroups. <mailto:motm@yahoogroups.com> com 
> Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 9:03 AM
> Subject: [motm] 510 Parts Question...
> 
> I'm going through the parts received with the 510 kit and I noticed some
> discrepencies with the capacitors. 
>  
> 1) The 10mfd 50V (polar) electrolytic caps (C4, C8, C15, and C16) are
> supposed to be orange according to the installation instructions.
Mine are
> black with a grey stripe on the negative side. Mine are labeled as
10uf50v
> B0613 PET VZ(M). Are these okay?
>  
> 2) The 10mfd 50V non-polar electrolytic caps (C1, C3, C5, and C13) are
> supposed to say NP on them (I'm assuming to indicate that they are
> non-polar). Mine are blue'ish, do not have a stripe (however they do
have a
> long lead and a short lead), are identified as 10uf50v B.P. 64IOT,
and do
> not say NP. Are these correct?
>  
> Thanks,
> Jim
> 
>   _____  
> 
> Check out the
>
<http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=43257/*http://advision.webevents.yahoo.com/mailb
> eta> all-new Yahoo! Mail beta - Fire up a more powerful email and
get things
> done faster.
>

I like orange.

Chub

--- In motm@yahoogroups.com, "Adam Schabtach" <adam@...> wrote:
>
> To elaborate slightly on what Paul said:
>  
> 1) cap colors are (almost always) irrelevant and change with the
> manufacturer and other random influences. I don't know of any
instance in
> which the color of an electrolytic cap is meaningful. It's the
capacitance
> and voltage ratings (and the physical shape) which are relevant.
Other cap
> types seem to be differentiated by color but again this varies from one
> manufacturer to another and cannot be depended upon.
>  
> 2) I think B.P. designates Bi-Polar, which is another way of saying
> non-polarized. I developed this theory last time I ordered non-polarized
> caps, but it's only a theory.
>  
> --Adam
> (often mystified by caps)
> 
> 
>   _____  
> 
> From: Paul Schreiber [mailto:synth1@...] 
> Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 8:08 AM
> To: motm@yahoogroups.com; James Elliott
> Subject: Re: [motm] 510 Parts Question...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course they are correct. 
>  
> Paul S.
>  
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: James  <mailto:johans121@...> Elliott 
> To: motm@yahoogroups. <mailto:motm@yahoogroups.com> com 
> Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 9:03 AM
> Subject: [motm] 510 Parts Question...
> 
> I'm going through the parts received with the 510 kit and I noticed some
> discrepencies with the capacitors. 
>  
> 1) The 10mfd 50V (polar) electrolytic caps (C4, C8, C15, and C16) are
> supposed to be orange according to the installation instructions.
Mine are
> black with a grey stripe on the negative side. Mine are labeled as
10uf50v
> B0613 PET VZ(M). Are these okay?
>  
> 2) The 10mfd 50V non-polar electrolytic caps (C1, C3, C5, and C13) are
> supposed to say NP on them (I'm assuming to indicate that they are
> non-polar). Mine are blue'ish, do not have a stripe (however they do
have a
> long lead and a short lead), are identified as 10uf50v B.P. 64IOT,
and do
> not say NP. Are these correct?
>  
> Thanks,
> Jim
> 
>   _____  
> 
> Check out the
>
<http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=43257/*http://advision.webevents.yahoo.com/mailb
> eta> all-new Yahoo! Mail beta - Fire up a more powerful email and
get things
> done faster.
>

I keep Zoloft in my medicine cabinet for when my Bi-polar caps get
blue.  Bill


--- In motm@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Marsh" <michaelmarsh@...> wrote:
>
> 
> Caps are the bane of my DIY existence.  Can't tell you how many times
> I've gotten a Mouser packeage with HUGE caps instead of ones that fit.
>  You'd think I would learn after so many years, but alas.
> 
> And don't EVEN get me started on pico to nano to micro.
> 
> Mike
> 
> --- In motm@yahoogroups.com, "Adam Schabtach" <adam@> wrote:
> >
> > To elaborate slightly on what Paul said:
> >  
> > 1) cap colors are (almost always) irrelevant and change with the
> > manufacturer and other random influences. I don't know of any
> instance in
> > which the color of an electrolytic cap is meaningful. It's the
> capacitance
> > and voltage ratings (and the physical shape) which are relevant.
> Other cap
> > types seem to be differentiated by color but again this varies
from one
> > manufacturer to another and cannot be depended upon.
> >  
> > 2) I think B.P. designates Bi-Polar, which is another way of saying
> > non-polarized. I developed this theory last time I ordered
non-polarized
> > caps, but it's only a theory.
> >  
> > --Adam
> > (often mystified by caps)
> > 
> > 
> >   _____  
> > 
> > From: Paul Schreiber [mailto:synth1@] 
> > Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 8:08 AM
> > To: motm@yahoogroups.com; James Elliott
> > Subject: Re: [motm] 510 Parts Question...
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Of course they are correct. 
> >  
> > Paul S.
> >  
> > 
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: James  <mailto:johans121@> Elliott 
> > To: motm@yahoogroups. <mailto:motm@yahoogroups.com> com 
> > Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 9:03 AM
> > Subject: [motm] 510 Parts Question...
> > 
> > I'm going through the parts received with the 510 kit and I
noticed some
> > discrepencies with the capacitors. 
> >  
> > 1) The 10mfd 50V (polar) electrolytic caps (C4, C8, C15, and C16) are
> > supposed to be orange according to the installation instructions.
> Mine are
> > black with a grey stripe on the negative side. Mine are labeled as
> 10uf50v
> > B0613 PET VZ(M). Are these okay?
> >  
> > 2) The 10mfd 50V non-polar electrolytic caps (C1, C3, C5, and C13) are
> > supposed to say NP on them (I'm assuming to indicate that they are
> > non-polar). Mine are blue'ish, do not have a stripe (however they do
> have a
> > long lead and a short lead), are identified as 10uf50v B.P. 64IOT,
> and do
> > not say NP. Are these correct?
> >  
> > Thanks,
> > Jim
> > 
> >   _____  
> > 
> > Check out the
> >
>
<http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=43257/*http://advision.webevents.yahoo.com/mailb

> > eta> all-new Yahoo! Mail beta - Fire up a more powerful email and
> get things
> > done faster.
> >
>

Yeah, I've done the same thing: order a bunch of parts, everything arrives
okay but the caps turn out to be the wrong physical size. Even worse, with
RoHS shifting everything around, the part numbers that I used to usethat I
knew were correct are no longer valid, so I have to start from scratch.
However, since I'm switching to SMT for all of my DIY projects, it's a
little easier because the package sizes are well defined. E.g. 1206 is the
same size regardless of who you're buying from; no need to peer at the spec
sheet to figure out whether you're getting the right lead spacing.
 
And then there's the challenge of trying to pick what type you need for a
new design--polyester, metal film, ceramic, blah blah blah... This is one of
the things that separates Paul from us amateurs: he knows which caps to use,
and why. :-)
 
Regarding pico/nano/micro: if you have a Palm OS PDA, there is a very handy
freeware app called YAUC, which is an acronym for Yet Another Unit
Converter. It does unit conversions for just about any quantity you can
name, including capacitance. It's much easier than trying to shift the
decimal point by groups of three in your head. Heck, it's so handy that it's
probably worth buying a cheap Palm on eBay just to run it.
 
--Adam


  _____  

From: Mike Marsh [mailto:michaelmarsh@...] 
Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 11:55 AM
To: motm@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [motm] Re: 510 Parts Question...




Caps are the bane of my DIY existence. Can't tell you how many times
I've gotten a Mouser packeage with HUGE caps instead of ones that fit.
You'd think I would learn after so many years, but alas.

And don't EVEN get me started on pico to nano to micro.

Mike

--- In motm@yahoogroups. <mailto:motm%40yahoogroups.com> com, "Adam
Schabtach" <adam@...> wrote:
>
> To elaborate slightly on what Paul said:
> 
> 1) cap colors are (almost always) irrelevant and change with the
> manufacturer and other random influences. I don't know of any
instance in
> which the color of an electrolytic cap is meaningful. It's the
capacitance
> and voltage ratings (and the physical shape) which are relevant.
Other cap
> types seem to be differentiated by color but again this varies from one
> manufacturer to another and cannot be depended upon.
> 
> 2) I think B.P. designates Bi-Polar, which is another way of saying
> non-polarized. I developed this theory last time I ordered non-polarized
> caps, but it's only a theory.
> 
> --Adam
> (often mystified by caps)
> 
> 
> _____ 
> 
> From: Paul Schreiber [mailto:synth1@...] 
> Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 8:08 AM
> To: motm@yahoogroups. <mailto:motm%40yahoogroups.com> com; James Elliott
> Subject: Re: [motm] 510 Parts Question...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course they are correct. 
> 
> Paul S.
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: James <mailto:johans121@...> Elliott 
> To: motm@yahoogroups. <mailto:motm@yahoogroups.
<mailto:motm%40yahoogroups.com> com> com 
> Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 9:03 AM
> Subject: [motm] 510 Parts Question...
> 
> I'm going through the parts received with the 510 kit and I noticed some
> discrepencies with the capacitors. 
> 
> 1) The 10mfd 50V (polar) electrolytic caps (C4, C8, C15, and C16) are
> supposed to be orange according to the installation instructions.
Mine are
> black with a grey stripe on the negative side. Mine are labeled as
10uf50v
> B0613 PET VZ(M). Are these okay?
> 
> 2) The 10mfd 50V non-polar electrolytic caps (C1, C3, C5, and C13) are
> supposed to say NP on them (I'm assuming to indicate that they are
> non-polar). Mine are blue'ish, do not have a stripe (however they do
have a
> long lead and a short lead), are identified as 10uf50v B.P. 64IOT,
and do
> not say NP. Are these correct?
> 
> Thanks,
> Jim
> 
> _____ 
> 
> Check out the
>
<http://us.rd.
<http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=43257/*http://advision.webevents.yahoo.com/mailb
> yahoo.com/evt=43257/*http://advision.webevents.yahoo.com/mailb
> eta> all-new Yahoo! Mail beta - Fire up a more powerful email and
get things
> done faster.
>

Thanks for this Adam; I usually Google some converter on the net but
it still uses a part of my brain that is, uh, challenged :/

SMT?  Paul quitting kitting is a great excuise for me to stop
soldering my own stuff - it's gotten tough on the eyes.  Couldn't
imagine hand soldering SMT components!  I know there have been
explications on how to do this on the various groups, but it's not for
me...

Mike

--- In motm@yahoogroups.com, "Adam Schabtach" <adam@...> wrote:
>
> Yeah, I've done the same thing: order a bunch of parts, everything
arrives
...

I guess it depends on how you look at it. Paul quitting kitting was in part
what spurred me to broaden my DIY skills. Now I'm quite comfortable with SMT
assembly (which is really truly not hard, once you try it) and I'm etching
my own PC boards. My latest project involved hand-soldering a 64-pin TQFP
SMD microcontroller to a PCB I etched in my garage. Worked like a charm. My
eyes are starting to become middle-aged also, but that's what magnifiers are
for.
 
--Adam


  _____  

From: Mike Marsh [mailto:michaelmarsh@...] 
Sent: Friday, December 15, 2006 9:36 AM
To: motm@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Caps [was RE: [motm] Re: 510 Parts Question...]




Thanks for this Adam; I usually Google some converter on the net but
it still uses a part of my brain that is, uh, challenged :/

SMT? Paul quitting kitting is a great excuise for me to stop
soldering my own stuff - it's gotten tough on the eyes. Couldn't
imagine hand soldering SMT components! I know there have been
explications on how to do this on the various groups, but it's not for
me...

Mike

--- In motm@yahoogroups. <mailto:motm%40yahoogroups.com> com, "Adam
Schabtach" <adam@...> wrote:
>
> Yeah, I've done the same thing: order a bunch of parts, everything
arrives
...

> Caps are the bane of my DIY existence.  Can't tell you how many times
> I've gotten a Mouser packeage with HUGE caps instead of ones that fit.

Mike

I'll second or third that - and I'll fess up to bending leads a couple
of times to make a HUGE cap fit.

At least I'm not ordering the microscopic surface mount parts by
mistake anymore - so maybe there's still hope for me!