MOTM

What is the secret to making a MOTM power cable with the MTA-156  
connectors? Do I need a crimper to attach the wires? I try to get them  
in there with a set of pilers but that doesn't work. Last time my  
cable didn't work so I just blobbed molten solder on there to close it  
up. There must be a better way. Are you supposed to strip the wire  
first? I'm using 18 gauge wire.

Thanks, -jl

You can get some tools for
fixing wires into MTA connectors (Mouser part numbers):

         571-598041
          156 T HANDL MAINT TL
          AMP MTA .156' Connectors

         571-598031
          100 T HANDL MAINT TL
          AMP MTA .100' Connectors

These aren't the fancy ones with a trigger; these are the T-shaped
ones that still require a vice to hold the connector and a bit of
grunting to get the wire in place. I've found these tools to be much
more reliable than the old pliers method, especially when building 20
power cables. The results are consistent and perfect each time.

On 8-Jun-08, at 7:46 PM, Jeff Laity wrote:

> What is the secret to making a MOTM power cable with the MTA-156
> connectors? Do I need a crimper to attach the wires? I try to get them
> in there with a set of pilers but that doesn't work. Last time my
> cable didn't work so I just blobbed molten solder on there to close it
> up. There must be a better way. Are you supposed to strip the wire
> first? I'm using 18 gauge wire.
>
> Thanks, -jl

There are two styles -- crimped pin, and press-in.
I use the crimping tool and pins for mine.
When I goof and order those press-in bastards (excuse me!), I strip a 
bit of the wire and solder it in to make extra-super-sure.
But then I always have that feeling that I'm punk-rocking that which 
should not be punk-rocked.
Probably it's that nagging voice in my head, saying, "It's only a 
matter of time until that sharp little jeweler's flat-head slips and 
plunges into your wrist, ya daftee."
: )

Paul, do you have one of the fancy tools? What do you use?

Cheers,
Scott Deyo
The Bridechamber
contact@...
http://www.bridechamber.com
Jealous Edison Record Kompany
http://www.jealousedison.com

On Jun 8, 2008, at 9:12 PM, Scott Juskiw wrote:

> You can get some tools for
>  fixing wires into MTA connectors (Mouser part numbers):
>
>  571-598041
>  156 T HANDL MAINT TL
>  AMP MTA .156' Connectors
>
>  571-598031
>  100 T HANDL MAINT TL
>  AMP MTA .100' Connectors
>
>  These aren't the fancy ones with a trigger; these are the T-shaped
>  ones that still require a vice to hold the connector and a bit of
>  grunting to get the wire in place. I've found these tools to be much
>  more reliable than the old pliers method, especially when building 20
>  power cables. The results are consistent and perfect each time.
>
>  On 8-Jun-08, at 7:46 PM, Jeff Laity wrote:
>
>  > What is the secret to making a MOTM power cable with the MTA-156
>  > connectors? Do I need a crimper to attach the wires? I try to get 
> them
>  > in there with a set of pilers but that doesn't work. Last time my
>  > cable didn't work so I just blobbed molten solder on there to close 
> it
>  > up. There must be a better way. Are you supposed to strip the wire
>  > first? I'm using 18 gauge wire.
>  >
>  > Thanks, -jl
>
>  
>

I ground a screwdriver so I can press them in.  I don't trust them, 
so I put the connector sideways (to avoid gravity) in a vice and 
solder the wires.  You need to solder quickly.  I usually tin the 
wires first.  Works great.

Dave

--- In motm@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Laity <synthetic@...> wrote:
>
> What is the secret to making a MOTM power cable with the MTA-156  
> connectors? Do I need a crimper to attach the wires? I try to get 
them  
> in there with a set of pilers but that doesn't work. Last time my  
> cable didn't work so I just blobbed molten solder on there to close 
it  

> up. There must be a better way. Are you supposed to strip the wire  
> first? I'm using 18 gauge wire.
> 
> Thanks, -jl
>

I just buy these things:

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/CON-234/4-PIN-CONNECTOR-W/HEADER-.156/-/1.html

James

>From: Jeff Laity <synthetic@...>
>To: MOTM List <motm@yahoogroups.com>
>Subject: [motm] Making power cables
>Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2008 18:46:18 -0700
>
>What is the secret to making a MOTM power cable with the MTA-156
>connectors? Do I need a crimper to attach the wires? I try to get them
>in there with a set of pilers but that doesn't work. Last time my
>cable didn't work so I just blobbed molten solder on there to close it
>up. There must be a better way. Are you supposed to strip the wire
>first? I'm using 18 gauge wire.
>
>Thanks, -jl
>

On 6/8/08, Jeff Laity put forth:
>What is the secret to making a MOTM power cable with the MTA-156
>connectors? Do I need a crimper to attach the wires? I try to get them
>in there with a set of pilers but that doesn't work. Last time my
>cable didn't work so I just blobbed molten solder on there to close it
>up. There must be a better way. Are you supposed to strip the wire
>first? I'm using 18 gauge wire.

Using the right gauge wire is important.  What I do is take
unstripped wire, then using a needle-nose pliers with the jaws open
just a little bit, with one jaw on each side of the V-shaped tab,
then press the wire down.  Which has worked fine so far.

Although, I have a relatively small modular with mostly Synthesis
Technology modules that came with assembled cables.

If I remember correctly, I also received some power connectors with
the Blacet kits for the Time Machine and Mini Wave that used crimp
pins.  For those, I just used a pair of stakons:

http://www.drillspot.com/products/73941/Sta-Kon_WT112M_Crimping_Plier

The Blacet web site has two power cable kits that provide everything you
need for 4 pin cables although you will have to supply 6 pin connectors
for the larger MOTM cables.




> On 6/8/08, Jeff Laity put forth:
>>What is the secret to making a MOTM power cable with the MTA-156
>>connectors? Do I need a crimper to attach the wires? I try to get them
>>in there with a set of pilers but that doesn't work. Last time my
>>cable didn't work so I just blobbed molten solder on there to close it
>>up. There must be a better way. Are you supposed to strip the wire
>>first? I'm using 18 gauge wire.
>
> Using the right gauge wire is important.  What I do is take
> unstripped wire, then using a needle-nose pliers with the jaws open
> just a little bit, with one jaw on each side of the V-shaped tab,
> then press the wire down.  Which has worked fine so far.
>
> Although, I have a relatively small modular with mostly Synthesis
> Technology modules that came with assembled cables.
>
> If I remember correctly, I also received some power connectors with
> the Blacet kits for the Time Machine and Mini Wave that used crimp
> pins.  For those, I just used a pair of stakons:
>
> http://www.drillspot.com/products/73941/Sta-Kon_WT112M_Crimping_Plier
>
>


-- 
John Blacet

-- 
John Blacet

(resending, having some email issues)


 a) first you need the correct wire:

 http://stevenengineering.com/tech_support/PDFs/37PCBMTACN.pdf
 which for 18ga. is UL 1007.

b) MTA = Mass Termination Assembly = IDC = Insulation Displacement 
Connector.
That means: a special tool is needed to "cram" the *stranded*  wire into the 
connector so that little blades slice through the insulation
 and make contact with the wire. Same thing that ribbon cables do, but on a
 larger scale

 c) There is a low-cost AMP tool, Mouser (www.mouser.com) part #571-598041
 (for MTA-156) and also #571-598031 (for MTA-100). This is used to 'cram'
 the wire into the contact, assuming that the connector is somehow secured
 beforehand (I've use a PanaVise). These are $22.00ea. I use a pneumatic
 machine with a "feedthrough" tool that cost $430. But I've made over 8,000
 cables so big deal
>
 d) note that MTA-156 is designed for 18ga wire with PVC insulation rate
 300V or less (this is to control the thickness of the wire versus the
 thickness of the insulation).
>
e) also note there are "dust covers" that slide over the female IDC
 connectors. The Mouser part number for the 4-pin MTA-156 is a #571-6405514
 and these run $0.18ea.

> Paul S.
>

I'm with Dave on this.  The solder-less approach, while "correct",  is 
better suited to a mass production assembly line that warrants purchase 
of the expensive tools and exactly correct wire (see Paul Schreiber's 
post on this).  Making these by assembly line will go much faster this 
way.  But for DIY the connections are easily soldered, being careful not 
to melt the plastic connector too much.  It takes a little skill, but 
heck, this is DIY.  Soldering works for any size of wire, although 
choice of a gauge (#18 or #20) that fits the pin is best.  #18 wire is 
overkill unless you're making a long cable.  Use stranded wire for 
flexibility.

My technique is to hold the header in a tiny vise, tin the wire, and 
push it carefully into the pin with a small screwdriver.  Then make a 
good solder joint that properly heats both the wire and the pin with the 
solder applied to the work (not just to the soldering iron).  I've never 
had any problems.

Richard Brewster
http://www.pugix.com


djbrow54 wrote:

> I ground a screwdriver so I can press them in.  I don't trust them, 
> so I put the connector sideways (to avoid gravity) in a vice and 
> solder the wires.  You need to solder quickly.  I usually tin the 
> wires first.  Works great.
>
> Dave
>
> --- In motm@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Laity <synthetic@...> wrote:
>   
>> What is the secret to making a MOTM power cable with the MTA-156  
>> connectors? Do I need a crimper to attach the wires? I try to get 
>>     
> them  
>   
>> in there with a set of pilers but that doesn't work. Last time my  
>> cable didn't work so I just blobbed molten solder on there to close 
>>     
> it  
>   
>> up. There must be a better way. Are you supposed to strip the wire  
>> first? I'm using 18 gauge wire.
>>
>> Thanks, -jl
>>
>>

The AMP tool would have taken, like, days to get here, so I came up  
with my own system that worked pretty well:

1. Put 18 ga. wire in slot and push it down a bit
2. Put a small allen wrench on top of the wire
3. Use pliers to squish allen wrench down on top of wire (I used some  
pliers that press down in a parallel line)
4. Use pliers to squeeze either side of connector together.

I got six out of six working power cables, so I'm happy. Next time  
I'll probably try stripping and tInning the wires, or buying the right  
tool for the job. (Psssh!)