Yahoo Groups archive
Thread
2010-11-26 by ML
Just wondering if someone's making replacement caps, not necessarily the same color as those on the P6. For example ~ are Jupiter 8 / TR-808 caps the same type and interchangeable with these?
2010-12-02 by Arturo B
Not sure if this has been discussed on here before, but it looks like a worthwhile solution. This fellow says he has material made for/by NASA that he's using to overlay onto his Polysix contacts (and any other keybeds that use the same type of dome contacts...there's a list in the video write up). He says that they have the same properties as the original material and that they work very well. Just wondering if anyone's tried these. I'd really like to give them a whirl cos I'm really sick of my contacts constantly going on me. My only concern is that if these things fail and you have to remove them (or if they fall off), you'll be stuck with this sticky goo from the 3M adhesive he's put on the material so it'll stick to surfaces. http://www.sounddoctorin.com http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gJarAWE-Uyo&NR=1 Aside from this, what else is recommended? Rubbing Alcohol/isopropyl? Light sand paper? Erasers (which I find only lasts a few days/weeks? I was told that lighter fluid is good to clean the bus bar and J wires of my Prophet 5. Would that work on the Polysix type contacts too? Thanks! Arturo..... ============================================ Arturo Brisindi [Musics] mydadvsyours.com | soundcloud.com/arturo00 [Studios] galleryrecording.weebly.com | arturo00.weebly.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2010-12-02 by backshall1 (dsl)
Yes, these are the contacts from Bob at SoundDoctorin. I've had good luck with Polysix contacts with just isopropyl alcohol, but I have one of those Juno D's with the notorious contacts that just won't clean up and I used a set of Bob's stick-on contacts on it. That was in May, and it's still working perfectly. They are very thin and the adhesive is even thinner, so there wouldn't be much to clean up if you had to remove them, although I don't know why you would want to. Don B. _____
From: PolySix@yahoogroups.com [mailto:PolySix@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Arturo B Sent: Wednesday, December 01, 2010 8:54 PM To: polysix@yahoogroups.com Subject: [PolySix] Polysix key contact replacement Not sure if this has been discussed on here before, but it looks like a worthwhile solution. This fellow says he has material made for/by NASA that he's using to overlay onto his Polysix contacts (and any other keybeds that use the same type of dome contacts...there's a list in the video write up). He says that they have the same properties as the original material and that they work very well. Just wondering if anyone's tried these. I'd really like to give them a whirl cos I'm really sick of my contacts constantly going on me. My only concern is that if these things fail and you have to remove them (or if they fall off), you'll be stuck with this sticky goo from the 3M adhesive he's put on the material so it'll stick to surfaces. http://www.sounddoctorin.com http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gJarAWE-Uyo <http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gJarAWE-Uyo&NR=1> &NR=1 Aside from this, what else is recommended? Rubbing Alcohol/isopropyl? Light sand paper? Erasers (which I find only lasts a few days/weeks? I was told that lighter fluid is good to clean the bus bar and J wires of my Prophet 5. Would that work on the Polysix type contacts too? Thanks! Arturo..... ============================================ Arturo Brisindi [Musics] mydadvsyours.com | soundcloud.com/arturo00 [Studios] galleryrecording.weebly.com | arturo00.weebly.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2010-12-02 by Arturo B
My concern was more that they'd fall off... But thanks for the positive report. I'll be contacting him shortly! Arturo..... ============================================ Arturo Brisindi [Musics] mydadvsyours.com | soundcloud.com/arturo00 [Studios] galleryrecording.weebly.com | arturo00.weebly.com > To: PolySix@yahoogroups.com > From: backshall1@bellsouth.net > Date: Wed, 1 Dec 2010 21:46:26 -0500 > Subject: RE: [PolySix] Polysix key contact replacement > > Yes, these are the contacts from Bob at SoundDoctorin. I've had good luck > with Polysix contacts with just isopropyl alcohol, but I have one of those > Juno D's with the notorious contacts that just won't clean up and I used a > set of Bob's stick-on contacts on it. That was in May, and it's still > working perfectly. They are very thin and the adhesive is even thinner, so > there wouldn't be much to clean up if you had to remove them, although I > don't know why you would want to. > > Don B. > > _____ > > From: PolySix@yahoogroups.com [mailto:PolySix@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of > Arturo B > Sent: Wednesday, December 01, 2010 8:54 PM > To: polysix@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [PolySix] Polysix key contact replacement > > > > > > Not sure if this has been discussed on here before, but it looks like a > worthwhile solution. This fellow says he has material made for/by NASA that > he's using to overlay onto his Polysix contacts (and any other keybeds that > use the same type of dome contacts...there's a list in the video write up). > He says that they have the same properties as the original material and that > they work very well. Just wondering if anyone's tried these. I'd really like > to give them a whirl cos I'm really sick of my contacts constantly going on > me. > > My only concern is that if these things fail and you have to remove them (or > if they fall off), you'll be stuck with this sticky goo from the 3M adhesive > he's put on the material so it'll stick to surfaces. > > http://www.sounddoctorin.com > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gJarAWE-Uyo > <http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gJarAWE-Uyo&NR=1> &NR=1 > > Aside from this, what else is recommended? Rubbing Alcohol/isopropyl? Light > sand paper? Erasers (which I find only lasts a few days/weeks? I was told > that lighter fluid is good to clean the bus bar and J wires of my Prophet 5. > Would that work on the Polysix type contacts too? > > Thanks! > > Arturo..... > > > > ============================================ > Arturo Brisindi > > [Musics] > mydadvsyours.com | soundcloud.com/arturo00 > > [Studios] > galleryrecording.weebly.com | arturo00.weebly.com > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > ------------------------------------ > > PolySix "Digiest" Page: http://www.acc.umu.se/~amber/Poly6Yahoo! Groups Links > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2010-12-03 by Arturo B
Hey group. I've started on the calibration of my first board.However, I seemed to have lost the functionality of the entire Key Assign Mode section. None of the LEDs turn on and they don't seem to respond at all. The Programmer and the arpeggio speed control works just fine. Is this normal? I noticed this after having trouble connecting the 56KOhm resistor on the KLM-376 board and fiddling with it a bit. I assumed that this was somehow the result of calibrating the reset circuit, but now I'm not so sure. Any insight would be great cos I'm at a loss. I might also add that the Service Manual directions for this calibration are the most confusing and vague instructions I have EVER encountered. :( Arturo..... ============================================ Arturo Brisindi [Musics] mydadvsyours.com | soundcloud.com/arturo00 [Studios] galleryrecording.weebly.com | arturo00.weebly.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
2010-12-03 by Andrew Jury
Hi Arturo, No this is not right at all. Are you sure when you connected the dummy load to the PSU you didn¹t short out the pins? This will take out the 5v rail and probably all the lights with it! A tip for you; if you have an old PC in the garage or loft go and find it. Take out the speaker, wire and the connector attached to it. Cut the wire off near the end of the connector and solder the 56K resistor to it. The connector fits perfectly in the socket! The reset calibration is basically determining how long the reset line will remain active low after you have switched on. The trick is to connect the resistor, with the power off, switch on and then adjust VR1 until all the LEDs come on. Then rotate back a bit until they just switch off. Disconnect the resistor and you are all set. The manual is pretty badly written, but I suspect it is translated rather poorly from the engineer¹s native Japanese. This was a source of much fun for me in the seventies when they started flooding the market with their electronics and accompanying manuals! No disrespect to them as pictorial to roman character translation must be mind-bendingly difficult! Cheers, Andy On 03/12/2010 07:30, "Arturo B" <arturo00@hotmail.com> wrote: > > > > > > > Hey group. I've started on the calibration of my first board.However, I seemed > to have lost the functionality of the entire Key Assign Mode section. None of > the LEDs turn on and they don't seem to respond at all. The Programmer and the > arpeggio speed control works just fine. Is this normal? I noticed this after > having trouble connecting the 56KOhm resistor on the KLM-376 board and > fiddling with it a bit. I assumed that this was somehow the result of > calibrating the reset circuit, but now I'm not so sure. Any insight would be > great cos I'm at a loss. > > I might also add that the Service Manual directions for this calibration are > the most confusing and vague instructions I have EVER encountered. :( > > Arturo..... > > ============================================ > Arturo Brisindi > > [Musics] > > mydadvsyours.com | soundcloud.com/arturo00 > > [Studios] > > galleryrecording.weebly.com | arturo00.weebly.com > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]