To re-secure the plug, try some JB Weld. It's a fantastically strong
epoxy. People repair engine blocks with it. The "Quik" kind would be
ideal and is only about $5 for the tubes at any auto parts store.
For the leads, you might want to just heat the up with a soldering iron
and maybe even throw a little bit more solder on there.
Glad to hear it's probably not blown!
-Aaron
--- robotchas <robotchas@...> wrote:
> Thanks to Aaron and Steve for the info/advice!
>
> I opened it up and checked the SIMMs, ribbon cable connectors, etc.,
> and everything seemed fine; the power jack is definitely floating
> loose but inside the power supply cage it's attached to three wires
> (you're right, Aaron, looks pretty simple), so there's room for give
> there and the flexing doesn't seem to be bothering them in any
> obvious
> way. Could still be a bad solder joint I suppose, which is better
> than
> a bad PSU. I'd really like to get the jack reseated so it doesn't
> move, even if it's not causing problems now it could later and it
> makes attaching and removing the power cable a bit of a pain. (Learn
> from my experience: a hard knock against the base of your power cord
> is not a good thing!)
>
> Anyway, I closed it back up and powered on, and got all the way
> through the bootup sequence, which it hasn't done for a while. I need
> to leave it on for a bit and see if it resets again - when the
> problem
> first appeared it took a while to kick in, so it may not have gone
> away. Unfortunately I'm in mid-move (to SF) so it will be another
> week
> or so before I can check it. I'll post an update when I have one.
>
> Chris, good luck on your end, I'll keep an eye out for any news from
> you!
>
>
> Chas.
>
>
>
>
>
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