Casio CZ/ VZ/ FZ - Pro Series

In the process of cleaning and repairing my CZ1, The 5 outputs at the 
rear of the unit (headphone, line B, Line A+B, Sustain and Volume 
sockets have all perished, and the intenal plastic casings have 
crumbled...

Anyone have any ideas what parts I need to repair these? I assume 2 
will be stereo, and the other 3 mono - but will it be a stock size? 
(I can use a soldering iron, so I should be able to do the repair)

I guess I could put some surface mount ones on there, with a nut on 
the outside to secure it - and run short wires to the PCB 
connections - but it would be nice to stick with PCB mount ones...

Thanks all

CandT

>In the process of cleaning and repairing my CZ1, The 5 outputs at the
>rear of the unit (headphone, line B, Line A+B, Sustain and Volume
>sockets have all perished, and the intenal plastic casings have
>crumbled...
>
>Anyone have any ideas what parts I need to repair these? I assume 2
>will be stereo, and the other 3 mono - but will it be a stock size?
>(I can use a soldering iron, so I should be able to do the repair)
>
>I guess I could put some surface mount ones on there, with a nut on
>the outside to secure it - and run short wires to the PCB
>connections - but it would be nice to stick with PCB mount ones...

If you can remove one reasonably intact then you can compare it to the 
diagrams and measurements on part supplier websites- generally the drawings 
are pretty precise so you get to see what will fit.

I don't think it matters that much, just try to get something reasonably 
decent quality so you won't have to repair it again.

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--- In CZsynth@yahoogroups.com, "Scott Nordlund" <gsn10@h...> wrote:
> If you can remove one reasonably intact then you can compare it to 
the 
> diagrams and measurements on part supplier websites- generally the 
drawings 
> are pretty precise so you get to see what will fit.
> 
> I don't think it matters that much, just try to get something 
reasonably 
> decent quality so you won't have to repair it again.

Thinking about it further - I like the idea of surface mount sockets 
with wires to the PCB.. It'll remove the strain from the PCB (I 
think this was the cause of the problems in the first place as the 
PCB has a lot of play), and since the rear panel area is metal, the 
locknut sockets should hold really firmly.. (It'll also mean I my 
limited soldering iron experience won't be too stretched ;-) ). 
It'll also make it easier to replace damaged sockets in the future..

Cheers, I'll let you know how it turns out.

CandT

>Thinking about it further - I like the idea of surface mount sockets
>with wires to the PCB.. It'll remove the strain from the PCB (I
>think this was the cause of the problems in the first place as the
>PCB has a lot of play), and since the rear panel area is metal, the
>locknut sockets should hold really firmly.. (It'll also mean I my
>limited soldering iron experience won't be too stretched ;-) ).
>It'll also make it easier to replace damaged sockets in the future..

That probably would work well, mounting jacks directly on boards is usually 
not a terribly good idea unless it's all well-secured.

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