Yamaha DTXpress/DTXplorer/DTXtreme

--- In DTXpress@yahoogroups.com, "coachman6666" <coachman666@a...> 
wrote:
I thought that
> the dtx's snare could handle rolls and rudiments?????????

Hi Matt,

I'd hold onto the gum rubber snare for a while. Even though the 
action differs from that of a mylar or other acoustic head, it is by 
no means a complete wash. If some people can practice rudiments 
satisfactorily on their thighs, you won't unequivocally lose your 
edge playing them on the Yamaha TP65S. See what you can do with it 
before you negate it entirely. You're about to get a pretty 
serviceable set of e-drums that deserves to be met on its own terms. 
Learning to program and deploy gum rubber pads and cymbals is an 
invaluable experience. I'd be surprised if you weren't impressed 
with the dtxpress right out of the box. Frankly, it's a gas.

As Steph said, the usual next step up, if and when you choose to 
take it, is a mesh head, at least for the snare, though many people 
use them for their toms as well. If you're old and crunchy, like 
some of us, woven heads will save wear and tear on the tendons and 
joints as well as look/feel like more traditional drums, though 
touch will ultimately depend on the type of woven head that you 
choose. Steph mentioned the Hart two-plies; they're good and 
durable. The Rolands and Pintechs often come under fire for being 
too "bouncy," but at the risk of overloading you further, I wouldn't 
sell them short altogether. I find that they have their uses. But 
remember that some e-drummers remain very happy with gum rubber pads.

> Ok my only gripe so far is that what is this snare and hi hat being
> muted thing???  How can i fix it so that they wont mute each other 
if
> played together.  

Don't fret about the snare/hi hat interaction. Yamaha made a minor 
error in the default setting of a parameter called specific 
rejection for the snare input; a simple adjustment wiil put that 
problem to rest. Actually, the module contains three types of 
rejection parameters for each input; they help to isolate triggers 
from each other so that one won't fire when another is hit. You'll 
get accustomed to the lingo in no time. At this point, you have 
little to gain from terms abstracted from their applications. We'll 
be here when you know enough to realize how much there is to know.
 
> Also, Is there a way to remove the trigger from the 3 zone snare 
and
> add it to a mesh headed acoustic snare? 

Not much to gain from that. If you'd like, you can buy a trigger 
that will allow you to run your acoustic snare through the module; 
the Yamaha has dedicated settings for such a strategy. Yamaha or 
Pintech triggers would probably be your best bet, since ddrums often 
are problematic through Yamaha electronics. A triggered acoustic 
snare, however, is loud. You could also convert an acoustic snare 
into a mesh pad by strategically positioning a piezo trigger inside 
it within or beneath a foam wedge or cone. The piezo can be had for 
next to nothing from Radio Shack, and the foam can be cut from 
window or air conditioning insulation. Designs are avaiable from 
various websites or members of this forum. Whatever you do, don't 
start dismantling pads, or thinking about it. The three-sound gum 
rubber pad is definitely not a piece of junk. If it has limitations, 
you would do well to find them by exploring the possibilities 
inherent in it and in the module. That way, whatever moves you 
decide to make as an e-drummer will be informed by firsthand 
experience, and you'll minimize wasted motion.

Ed