Yamaha DTXpress/DTXplorer/DTXtreme

-----Original Message-----
From: liberatusvirus [mailto:liberatusvirus@...]
Sent: Monday, June 30, 2003 8:59 PM
To: DTXpress@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DTXpress] Re: Hi all getting my dtxpress II soon

--- In DTXpress@yahoogroups.com, "coachman6666"
wrote:
I thought that
> the dtx's snare could handle rolls and rudiments?????????

Hi Matt,

I'd hold onto the gum rubber snare for a while. Even though the
action differs from that of a mylar or other acoustic head, it is by
no means a complete wash. If some people can practice rudiments
satisfactorily on their thighs, you won't unequivocally lose your
edge playing them on the Yamaha TP65S. See what you can do with it
before you negate it entirely. You're about to get a pretty
serviceable set of e-drums that deserves to be met on its own terms.
Learning to program and deploy gum rubber pads and cymbals is an
invaluable experience. I'd be surprised if you weren't impressed
with the dtxpress right out of the box. Frankly, it's a gas.

As Steph said, the usual next step up, if and when you choose to
take it, is a mesh head, at least for the snare, though many people
use them for their toms as well. If you're old and crunchy, like
some of us, woven heads will save wear and tear on the tendons and
joints as well as look/feel like more traditional drums, though
touch will ultimately depend on the type of woven head that you
choose. Steph mentioned the Hart two-plies; they're good and
durable. The Rolands and Pintechs often come under fire for being
too "bouncy," but at the risk of overloading you further, I wouldn't
sell them short altogether. I find that they have their uses. But
remember that some e-drummers remain very happy with gum rubber pads.

> Ok my only gripe so far is that what is this snare and hi hat being
> muted thing??? How can i fix it so that they wont mute each other
if
> played together.

Don't fret about the snare/hi hat interaction. Yamaha made a minor
error in the default setting of a parameter called specific
rejection for the snare input; a simple adjustment wiil put that
problem to rest. Actually, the module contains three types of
rejection parameters for each input; they help to isolate triggers
from each other so that one won't fire when another is hit. You'll
get accustomed to the lingo in no time. At this point, you have
little to gain from terms abstracted from their applications. We'll
be here when you know enough to realize how much there is to know.

> Also, Is there a way to remove the trigger from the 3 zone snare
and
> add it to a mesh headed acoustic snare?

Not much to gain from that. If you'd like, you can buy a trigger
that will allow you to run your acoustic snare through the module;
the Yamaha has dedicated settings for such a strategy. Yamaha or
Pintech triggers would probably be your best bet, since ddrums often
are problematic through Yamaha electronics. A triggered acoustic
snare, however, is loud. You could also convert an acoustic snare
into a mesh pad by strategically positioning a piezo trigger inside
it within or beneath a foam wedge or cone. The piezo can be had for
next to nothing from Radio Shack, and the foam can be cut from
window or air conditioning insulation. Designs are avaiable from
various websites or members of this forum. Whatever you do, don't
start dismantling pads, or thinking about it. The three-sound gum
rubber pad is definitely not a piece of junk. If it has limitations,
you would do well to find them by exploring the possibilities
inherent in it and in the module. That way, whatever moves you
decide to make as an e-drummer will be informed by firsthand
experience, and you'll minimize wasted motion.

Ed



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