Yamaha DTXpress/DTXplorer/DTXtreme

Any hope in fixing this pad?

It's definately NOT the...Cable, module, any settings, modules dip 
switch, etc...and the pads A/B switch doesn't help.

I tested it against an identical TP80S pad which works fine under 
the same conditions so it's 'definately' the pad.

I started to open/peel off the rubber
from the pad to have a look. Some of the rubber wants to come off, 
some of it seems to be glued. Is there anything I can damage by 
opening this, or I should know before opening this pad up? 
Can I obtain/buy any internal components to repair this pad? I know 
I can buy a Piezo at Radio Shack of course...Actually I already did.

I'm hoping that if it's the broken level control, I can somehow 
change the level? replace the level control? Or see if it's a broken 
contact? Maybe it's the Piezo that's bad?

Actually, I forgot to pay attention if the rim's level is low 
too! :/ I DID hook it into (temp replace) my snare pad stereo 
trigger input so I very well could have checked it. But in any event 
the center pad is unuseable at it's very low volume level.

Thanks in advance, Steve

--- In DTXpress@yahoogroups.com, "zapaxe" <a_zapelectric@h...> wrote:
> I started to open/peel off the rubber
> from the pad to have a look. Some of the rubber wants to come off, 
> some of it seems to be glued. Is there anything I can damage by 
> opening this, or I should know before opening this pad up? 
> Can I obtain/buy any internal components to repair this pad? I know 
> I can buy a Piezo at Radio Shack of course...Actually I already did.
> 
> I'm hoping that if it's the broken level control, I can somehow 
> change the level? replace the level control? Or see if it's a 
broken 
> contact? Maybe it's the Piezo that's bad?
> 
> Actually, I forgot to pay attention if the rim's level is low 
> too! :/ I DID hook it into (temp replace) my snare pad stereo 
> trigger input so I very well could have checked it. But in any 
event 
> the center pad is unuseable at it's very low volume level.

Steve,

This is definitely one for OGD, who's made a going concern out of 
opening these babies up to check their innards. I'll just do a little 
song and dance before he comes out of the pigpen and washes up. He 
just loves playing with the hogs. You can't get him out of there to 
save your life. Anyway, the mere fact of his deconstruction of 
various pads should offer some encouragement to anyone with a similar 
bent (but wait until the warranty expires). Take a look at the photo 
section under "insides" to get an idea of what to expect under the 
hood, even though the TP80S isn't represented in person. Just be 
gentle when you pry. In your favor, the TP80S doesn't work, so you 
have little to lose and maybe everything to gain. First, however, try 
spraying a little WD40 into the jack area, just to make sure that the 
connector isn't dirty enough impede the signal. If not, my money is 
on the cheap little piezo being at the root of the problem, though 
who knows, really. If you're lucky, you'll be able to see something. 
If not, and you're the patient type, piezo replacement is a pretty 
simple start. 

By the way, if the pad's head isn't working, it's a safe bet that the 
rim isn't working either, since it fires through the same piezo. 

Ed

> Steve,
> 
> This is definitely one for OGD, who's made a going concern out of 
> opening these babies up to check their innards. > Ed

Steve,

Not having opened a TP80S, but assuming it is similar to the TP65, 
there are three locations around the rim were the rubber is glued to 
the plastic bottom housing. To opening it up you will have to cut 
through the glued portion of the rubber. The rim ribbon is attached 
to the bottom housing. The pad piezo is attached to a metal plate 
which is bonded to the rubber playing surface. There are 2 wires that 
go from the center of the pad (at the piezo) to the edge with the 
rack clamp is located. If you open and close the pad, just make sure 
you are careful with the rim ribbon and that it is clean of any 
dust,  before you close it back up. As Ed said, look in the photo 
area for the pictures I have taken of the TP65S pad, to give you an 
idea of whats in there.

OGD

Hi Ed,
Since I bought this used (ebay) I have no warranty. I just looked at 
the photo's & it looks like th ribbon is safe by opening it as was 
my main concern as I peeked inside mine as I partially opened it.
Actually the pad is 'partially' working, not completely dead...Maybe 
I have just very little to lose ;)...It's just that the volume level 
is extremely low with this used pad. Since the level control is 
broken - someone must have stuck something inside to break it - I'm 
guessing this has something to do with it.
I'll make sure the contact is clean, before I fool with it.

Steve


> This is definitely one for OGD, who's made a going concern out of 
> opening these babies up to check their innards. I'll just do a 
little 
> song and dance before he comes out of the pigpen and washes up. He 
> just loves playing with the hogs. You can't get him out of there 
to 
> save your life. Anyway, the mere fact of his deconstruction of 
> various pads should offer some encouragement to anyone with a 
similar 
> bent (but wait until the warranty expires). Take a look at the 
photo 
> section under "insides" to get an idea of what to expect under the 
> hood, even though the TP80S isn't represented in person. Just be 
> gentle when you pry. In your favor, the TP80S doesn't work, so you 
> have little to lose and maybe everything to gain. First, however, 
try 
> spraying a little WD40 into the jack area, just to make sure that 
the 
> connector isn't dirty enough impede the signal. If not, my money 
is 
> on the cheap little piezo being at the root of the problem, though 
> who knows, really. If you're lucky, you'll be able to see 
something. 
> If not, and you're the patient type, piezo replacement is a pretty 
> simple start. 
> 
> By the way, if the pad's head isn't working, it's a safe bet that 
the 

> rim isn't working either, since it fires through the same piezo. 
> 
> Ed

Hi and thanks OGD,

I did have myself a look at the pics and it looks as though I 
shouldn't do it any harm if being carefull around that ribbon. I was 
trying to 'pull' the glue :o ...but cutting the glue sounds like an 
easier way.
I'll be sure to clean the interior and jacks as well while I'm at it.
I'm fairly handy when it comes to simple as basic electronic 
repairs, but as far as the 'inner' components go, I wonder if Radio 
Shack has that level pot, or something to replace it with...? 
Replacing the piezo should be easy for me. Diagnostics of the little 
circuit board? Not sure till I take it appart, but I'm fairly good 
with soldering.
It's hard to see the circuit board in the pics, so I'll just have to 
take it appart afterall and do some exploratory surgery.
I bought this used, so I guess I'll just look at this problem as a 
learning experience ;)

Steve



> Not having opened a TP80S, but assuming it is similar to the TP65, 
> there are three locations around the rim were the rubber is glued 
to 
> the plastic bottom housing. To opening it up you will have to cut 
> through the glued portion of the rubber. The rim ribbon is 
attached 
> to the bottom housing. The pad piezo is attached to a metal plate 
> which is bonded to the rubber playing surface. There are 2 wires 
that 
> go from the center of the pad (at the piezo) to the edge with the 
> rack clamp is located. If you open and close the pad, just make 
sure 
> you are careful with the rim ribbon and that it is clean of any 
> dust,  before you close it back up. As Ed said, look in the photo 
> area for the pictures I have taken of the TP65S pad, to give you 
an 

> idea of whats in there.
> 
> OGD