Digital BW, The Print

Paul,

I use the blue ink only to tone the shadow range of print densities, where I like the "purple" look. I have not done much in the way making colorimetrically neutral prints.

The ability to selectively blend 3 curves in QTR is very useful in arriving at the desired print color.

Printing at 2880 dpi, the highlights are smooth, although dots can be visible with a loupe. I prefer not to have a dilution lower than LLK because of the potential color conflict with paper white.

The mid and highlight toning is done mostly with LM and LC (LM is usually higher ink limited than LC by 1 to 2 units in QTR).

Let me know if you want me to send you a wedge and 21 step print.

Shilesh


--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Paul" <roark.paul@...> wrote:
>
> "shileshjani" <janishilesh@> wrote:
> >
> >
> > What I have done is use the following inks for a dedicated b/w printer that can print on matte (MK) and gloss type (PK) papers. All inks are Image Specialists (except PK):
> > 
> > (1) PK - I use OEM K3 PK because it has higher Dmax than 3rd party
> > (2) MK - Eboni
> > (3) LK from the K4 set
> > (4) LLK from the K4 set
> > (5) LC from K4 set
> > (6) LM from K4 set
> > (7) Blue from the R1800 compatible inks
> > (8) Gloss Optimizer
> > 
> > ...
> 
> You find that single blue to give good color?  I find the color way to magenta. (HP's is the same.) 
> 
> I wish there was a single-color-pigment toner that offset the carbon color, but I have yet to find one that is prepared for inkjet use that I like.  
> 
> There is a pigment I've found that is the right color -- Daniel Smith's Indanthrone blue.  I've even printed with it.  But without the proper inkjet pigment prep, it's not something I'd recommend.  We need a company like IS to take up this challenge and do what needs to be done to give us a "carbon tone offset" that is a single pigment, but the market is probably too small to make such an effort possible.  
> 
> One huge advantage of a single pigment (not a blend) toner is that the fade path would be straight back to carbon -- the prints would not turn green; they'd just warm up, and much more slowly than when the OBA dyes fade.
> 
> Paul
> www.PaulRoark.com
>