Digital BW, The Print

You need to test.  It's not that hard.  Effective film speed will depend on
your metering technique, accuracy of your shutter... For instance, I
recently tested 4x5 TMY, now that all of my TMX Readyloads are gone.  About
10 years ago, TMY was an EI 250 film for me. (Zone 1 > .1 above film base
plus fog.) Now, though, it's an EI 500 film in my system.

I use a spotmeter and densitometer to test my film, but given you aren't
going to be adjusting development, and you might not have a densitometer,
you could simply expose a series.  Find a representative subject and
lighting for your photography. Rate the film at EI 200.  Now take a series
of pictures using 1/3 stop less exposure each time.  So EI 200, 250, 320,
400...  Now have them developed and scanned.  Compare results.  Your EI
will be the one that gives you the best results.

On Sun, Sep 2, 2012 at 7:21 AM, Seth Rossman <seth@msrphoto.com> wrote:

> **
>
>
> My presumption is: you have bought or have a source for the film and you
> have no other film options available. And, that you have a particular
> subject in mind.
>
> First of all, I don't know why you'd under expose it if you are not
> going to increase development, thus the contrast. If that is a "grain
> reduction" thing, I don't see it. It is 1/5th of a stop.
> However, setting the meter to 500 instead of 400 is what you want. Since
> cameras haven't had 1/400 second shutter speeds in a long time, that
> gives you 1/500 @ f/16 (sunny 16 rule) in the bright sun--which you
> don't have.
>
> Let me just add, if this is a project that is really important to you,
> why not use a tripod and ASA 100? Better yet, if you can get Technical
> Pan instead of TMax, go that way (tripod also).
>
> Seth
>  
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]