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Re: [Digital BW] Epson 1430 Non-OEM Cartridge Issues - Resolution

2013-01-26 by Paul Roark

Tom <bengui@...> wrote:

> **
>
> While using UC inks, I had spent more time unclogging my 4000 than time
> spent in printing.
>

It had a terrible reputation.  From what I've seen, part of the problem may
be that it's subject to ink backflow if left ideal too long.  Then only a
power cleaning will clear it.  So, as with most printers, once a week
printing is quite important.


>  Your cleaning
> methods for clearing the 4000 after it had set for years was amazingly
> helpful.
>


Let me make a note here.  The Windex on the pad may have finally killed my
7800 head.  It might also have been the roll of Arches I fed through the
machine.  At any rate, I had to replace the 7800 head and the repair person
warned that the ammonia in Windex can damage internal rubber gaskets in
Epson heads.  So, as I've been told before, don't let Windex with ammonia
be in contact with these heads for too long a time.



> Since using your E6 carbon ink set in the 4000, I haven't had a
> single clog that didn't clear with one short cleaning cycle.
>


The pattern I see is that Eboni MK (100% Eboni) clogs about as much as most
MKs.  In my 1400s, this is very rare.  In my 7800, it'll clog the same jets
every time it's left for much more than a week.  (That is where I got into
a practice of routinely using Windex on the pad the night before using the
printer if it had sat for more than a week, and that practice may have
wrecked the head.)  The dilute Eboni's virtually never clog.  There is no
binder in the generic base, so that eliminates one of the major factors in
clogging.




> ... the 4000...
> workhorse model. Many were left abandoned because of incessant UC
> clogging problems
>

Dust those old guys off.  They are clearly usable for some approaches.



> and poor dMax.
>

I don't have a solution for the poor matte paper dmax with pigments (at
least Eboni).  I recommend putting clear fluid in the MK position.  Then if
the printer is going to be left, you can print a tiny amount of "matte"
paper to blow the PK out of the head.  That might help if pigments are in
the machine.  I've never had a dye ink clog (yet -- knocking
on simulated wood here).



> ...
> (Do you describe your dry mounting method in any of the pdf's?
>

I use 24x36 inch heat-activated, coated fome-cor from M&M distributors.  I
have an old dry mount press from the wet print era that works very well.
 (I use this fome-cor only for the glossy dye prints.  Carbon matte prints
are never dry mounted.)

Paul
www.PaulRoark.com


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