geo@... wrote:
Thanks for those files, that makes it seem manageable!
I used the smallest jeweler's screwdriver I have to poke the cap of the inside of the valve. It seemed to do the job. I would think trying to feel for and get between the 4 small supports that show in the image of the valve would be the thing to do. The remnants are going to fall to the bottom of the cart immediately. So they'll never be a problem. If there is anything small enough to get through the valve, you'll end up sucking it out when you rinse the cart.
I am in fact looking for a neutral/cool tone, that's why I picked up on the suggestion of the HP inks.
You could kick the HP content up a notch by having 3 positions of them. That is, you could replace the Y Eb6 with a very dilute HP, though it's probably not necessary. Note that the OEM HP gray and light gray are cooler than the HP PK diluted with the generic base. (Use version C6B of the base.) Of course, diluting yourself is much cheaper. Dilute inks are very expensive water.
I saw you mentioning indanthrone blue and was intrigued by the idea of having just two pigments at opposite sides of the spectrum. Any chance of that ever seeing the light of day in an ink or is it simply too complex to produce for the niche we occupy?
The small companies that specialize in B&W are probably too small to invest in what is needed for the initial preparations of a pigment. Bob Zeiss, the founder of MIS and I talked about it, and he did not think he'd ever be able to do enough volume to justify the investment. As a practical matter, the HP PK and grays are so good, I would not bother with it.
Paul