That's very typical. I ran some tests where I put (at the time I was using) piezo inks on a few different papers like EAM, turner, etc four identical test strips as follows: 1) a strip sprayed with a UV inhibitor, stored in a light tight, almost airtight box 2) a strip in the same box but not sprayed 3) a strip in a south window, sprayed 4) a strip in south window not sprayed. The UV sprayed prints had warmed less in all cases. The window strips were warmer than the boxed strips. Still, the unsprayed strip in the box became warmer than the sprayed strip in the box. I found it took very roughly about four-six weeks in window for the paper to "max out". It depended on the paper to some extent. As a VERY generalized statement, the brighter white the paper base, the sooner the warming would start and the more intense it generally became. For example Lumijet "Vintage Vellum" was a real loser. EAM was about the best. I also find that Legion Photomatte warms a little more than I would like (with VM inks this time). There was also a secondary effect of the brighter papers yellowing (the paper base, independent of ink). I replicated the effects somewhat with MIS VM inkset, although the Two warm curves were much more suseptible to warming than the colder curves. Putting the UV inhibitor on worked very well. I didn't use Krylon, but "Imageshield" (Lumijet) in three light coatings. I have never found an ink/paper combo that didn't warm in my limited testing. A UV coating helps. Paul has done his own version of accelerated testing on more papers than I have, and his take on things would be interesting. Jim H. --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., "wolfkphotos" <wolfkutnahorskyphotos@r...> wrote: > I've just reprinted an image that I originally used as a test several > weeks ago to determine what papers I should stock. My two favorite test > prints, on Hahnemule Photo Rag 308 and William Turner, have been > leaning against some books for approx 2 weeks, and upon doing the > reprint, (on Photo Rag 308) I noticed a considerable difference in > colour between the new print and the older 2 prints. The new print was > considerably colder in tone, and in a side by side comparison, one > would almost call the older prints brownish in tone by comparison. > > I have not changed my ink, MIS FS through a CIS on a 1200, and I am > wondering if this ink / paper combination takes time to 'cure'. By > that I mean that the print has a colour shift as it dries and ages. If > this is the case, does anyone know how long this process takes. I've > been looking at these prints for a day now, and there is still a > noticable difference in tones. > > If 'curing' is not an issue, can anyone suggest what is happening? > > Wolf Kutnahorsky
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Re: MIS FS Colour Shift
2002-03-20 by jimhayes361
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