That's very typical. I ran some tests where I put (at the time I was
using) piezo inks on a few different papers like EAM, turner, etc four
identical test strips as follows:
1) a strip sprayed with a UV inhibitor, stored in a light tight,
almost airtight box
2) a strip in the same box but not sprayed
3) a strip in a south window, sprayed
4) a strip in south window not sprayed.
The UV sprayed prints had warmed less in all cases. The window strips
were warmer than the boxed strips. Still, the unsprayed strip in the
box became warmer than the sprayed strip in the box. I found it took
very roughly about four-six weeks in window for the paper to "max
out". It depended on the paper to some extent. As a VERY generalized
statement, the brighter white the paper base, the sooner the warming
would start and the more intense it generally became. For example
Lumijet "Vintage Vellum" was a real loser. EAM was about the best. I
also find that Legion Photomatte warms a little more than I would like
(with VM inks this time). There was also a secondary effect of the
brighter papers yellowing (the paper base, independent of ink).
I replicated the effects somewhat with MIS VM inkset, although the Two
warm curves were much more suseptible to warming than the colder
curves.
Putting the UV inhibitor on worked very well. I didn't use Krylon, but
"Imageshield" (Lumijet) in three light coatings. I have never found an
ink/paper combo that didn't warm in my limited testing. A UV coating
helps.
Paul has done his own version of accelerated testing on more papers
than I have, and his take on things would be interesting.
Jim H.
--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., "wolfkphotos"
<wolfkutnahorskyphotos@r...> wrote:
> I've just reprinted an image that I originally used as a test
several
> weeks ago to determine what papers I should stock. My two favorite
test
> prints, on Hahnemule Photo Rag 308 and William Turner, have been
> leaning against some books for approx 2 weeks, and upon doing the
> reprint, (on Photo Rag 308) I noticed a considerable difference in
> colour between the new print and the older 2 prints. The new print
was
> considerably colder in tone, and in a side by side comparison, one
> would almost call the older prints brownish in tone by comparison.
>
> I have not changed my ink, MIS FS through a CIS on a 1200, and I am
> wondering if this ink / paper combination takes time to 'cure'. By
> that I mean that the print has a colour shift as it dries and ages.
If
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> this is the case, does anyone know how long this process takes. I've
> been looking at these prints for a day now, and there is still a
> noticable difference in tones.
>
> If 'curing' is not an issue, can anyone suggest what is happening?
>
> Wolf Kutnahorsky