Digital BW, The Print

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., "sm7bxd" <sm7bxd@y...> 
wrote:

First, noone has yet asked: your bottles are from December, but how 
old was the CFS? Were you REFILLING the bottles with new ones in 
December, and thus winding up with perhaps a cm or two of older ink 
left in bottles and CFS carts when you put in ink from December? This 
would mix in new ink with old ink. I've been discovering that for me 
it is safe if I discard the ink bottles after six months. I am using 
carts right now, and plan to build my own CIS/CFS from the best parts 
from the systems in July when some new chip options come out.

You could just discard CFS after six months or one set of bottles, 
whichever is longer.

The humidity is very low here in the winter (20-30%RH), and the air 
pressure is only 80% of sea level (Colorado Rockies). I've had 
tremendous problems with clogging/ DSS with Cone and  with clogging 
only with MIS inks. I put a humidifier in room equiped with a UV light 
(germ free) and try to keep humidity at about 38-45%RH. If I go below 
35%RH I ALWAYS have problems. I run two quick draft purge prints at 
360 dpi a day. With springtime and humidities of about 40% more often 
than not, I am getting less clogs now, and the ink never sits in the 
printhead for long to sludge up. 

NEVER, ever, install a cart without a chip. You destroy printer almost 
a certainty. I use a very small pointed soldering iron to melt the 
nubbins onto the chip but am reconsidering using glue to avoid excess 
heat which may upset the chip.




> 
> For the wentholes - I have a simple but irriytating solution I have 
> made plastic cones (Not Cones plastic /smile/) that I place in this 
> holes when not in use - but they are not "automatic" - I can forget 
> them.


So this doesn't create a vacuum at the printhead when printer is off- 
that is, if the printhead is trying to get rid of an air bubble and 
you plug the vent hole- the air bubble may not disperse? I guess if 
the tubing is permeable it may not matter...

> Erlier I used a plastic bag with a damp piece of cloth to get 100% 
> rel humidity taped it - and it works as well

Over the bottles or the whole printer? If the whole printer, I would 
be worried about condensation forming on electronic connectors and 
circuit boards...


 
> Words to use here : The common tubes are permeable letting fluid out 
> and avaporate AND absorbtic letting air in (It's a two way 
> interference here) (I don't know air may corrogate some chemicals 
and 
> gibving them other colors, changing the chemical formulas etc etc.
> 
>


Yes, but make sure whatever you replace them with has the same 
physical properties wrt flexibility, weight, no oily residue on 
outside of tubing or inside, ability to be glued etc. Remember this is 
an "engineered" system- it also has to work slapping about back and 
forth in the printer bed. think of all the requirements for all that 
the tubing comes in contact with.

  
> What I need now for RR (Rolls Roys) is what I have learnt are tubes 
> made of "Tetrafluoroethelene"

Why, this is "Teflon"!! You won't be able to glue it very easily, if 
at all...

 that is both absorbtion and 
> permationrestistent. I now Nalgen have them - but are expensive - 
but 
> I dont care!

Teflon would be expensive...

> However, are they elastic enought to give it an easy go or do I have 
> to heat them to have the right bend and mobility?

Been a long time since I used teflon tubing, don't remember. I want to 
say it is more rigid than what is used now by a signifigant amount, 
but don't hold me to it.

> 
> They also do have selflocking connections - that could make it easy 
to
> maintenace the tubes now and then!


We-Ink has already implemented such a solution, and even offer a kit 
to add onto other CIS/CFS units.

> 
> It is to remember that the tubes has a far greater relative area to 
> the air than the bottles - so for me it's obvious (also by my 
> incedent) that this is of great importance to evaluate the systems.
> Ok this was the first indikation with MIS "double black" that has a 
> lot of carbonparticles in it - however in the long term every tube 
is 
> affected and build up - to stiff grease like things - that can't be 
> good at all. Investigated the other tubes as well - and they also 
> have grease - but not that much!


Okay, how about this-

make a CIS/CFS for the color cart only! Use vacuum fill virgin carts 
for the K cart. It is much cheaper to vacuum fill the k cart- and 
easier.

  
> 
> So when printing - are You happy wityh the blacks - if not I know 
> where it's hidden./call me and I'll tell You - smile/
> 
> Du Pont have alo such tubes - but not on the web! And I'm certain 
> that industri fellows can help me to further deliverants!   
> 
> I don't care if the tubes are single - it's easy to connect them 
with
> some sort of silicone every 5 cm or so

And let the assemblage flop to and fro in the printer bed? How long 
before it falls apart? That's called fatigue cycling. Actually, that's 
a real question not a sarcastic one- I just don't know how it would 
work- you'd have to watch it closely for awhile. And RTV Silicone 
won't stick to all surfaces- especaially teflon!

Good luck, if you come up with something I'll try it.
Jim H.


 or why not tape them with 
> different colors - making it look like cobras /smile/ - have a 
> suggestion for that one?
> 
> The hunt goes on!
> 
> Help appreciated! For sure!
> 
> 
> Thanks Ninj!
> 
> Regards
> 
> Bo Wrangborg
> Made in Sweden
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., "Nij" <nigel@m...> wrote:
> > Hej Bo,
> > 
> > You have said that you made your own CFS... what make of tubes did 
> you
> > use... did you buy a kit from MIS and make it yourself, or make it 
> from
> > parts you found in Sweden? Also, you note that you have just have 
> holes open
> > to the air in your bottles! I think this is a bad thing, and who 
> knows - it
> > may have been part of your problem - if solvent evaporates who 
> knows what
> > will be left but pigments stacked up on each other (a nasty gunk 
> indeed).
> > You need to make a breather line for your bottles so that air can 
> get in,
> > but evaporation is limited from the bottles.
> > 
> > I am sorry to hear about your problems, and hope that you manage 
to 
> get them
> > resolved.
> > 
> > Nij
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: sm7bxd [mailto:sm7bxd@y...]
> > > Sent: 14 May 2002 21:42
> > > To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y...
> > > Subject: [Digital BW] Re: RED ALERT - Attension - MIS Black!
> > >
> > >
> > > Rhanks - if it that easy - then this must be know in industry.
> > > Then
> > > Solutions:
> > > 1/
> > > I might be able to find tubes made by Nalgalene or some other
> > > major deliverant that make polymere things that don't let air or
> > > anything through the plasics.
> > > 2/
> > > Find something to coat those tubes with (fat - grease - anything 
> that
> > > is known to fix such things)that hinder this to happen!
> > >
> > > For sure this is not anything about handy - it's finding a 
> soltion to
> > > the problem with this very dangerous tubes (if it's ONLY the 
> tubes)
> > > or find another tube-setup that doesn't allow for this things to
> > > happen
> > >
> > <snip>