--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., "Antonis Ricos" <antonisphoto@y...> wrote: > Mark, > > regarding monitor preview: this is unrelated to whether you >tone or not. An > RGB file should preview correctly if you follow good color >management > regardless of contents. I thought the same thing. It *always* looks "close", and "close" is a very vague and subjective word here. But I was surprised to actually print out the same file, having toned it in different ways, and see how different toning methods didn't match the monitor exactly. I can only guess we're getting into gamut limitations here. >One way to avoid the games that ColorSync can play > at the system level, is to process the file through whatever >printer profile you > have and then send it through to the printer after you turn off >any Color Sync > functions available at the driver level. This is interesting too. Interesting to compare the same exact file: one, converted to the output space, and then printed with "Same as Source"; and then the second, with just an embedded profile, like ColorMatch RGB, but then output through the custom profile. Even yet another interesting approach that showed up with yet a different result: Choose ColorSync in the Epson print driver, and print the file THAT way, using the custom proflle. I found a slightly different look to that even. > > Regarding crossovers: That is a common profile problem. You >would have to > optimize a profile for gray neutrality and even then, since you >are fighting with > the innards of the Epson driver over which you have no control, >it's not a > foolproof way. Yes. The first phase of my custom profile was the grey-chip linearization test. But as anybody who's ever tried to print a 21-step grey wedge, using six colors (CMYK,c,m) can attest, it's VERY tough to get all 21 chips to be the "same color" of neutral. It seems deceptively simple; but I dare you to try it sometime. >Just to make sure: you are talking about using 4 or 6 color inks > in an Epson right? If you are using MIS VT or other printers or a >RIP, please > clarify. I'm on a 7000, using MIS lightfast dyes (six colors). Using Epson Smooth Fine Art. > > Regarding toning procedures: When you say you are using HSB, that means > you measure your colors in HSB - or is your file written in HSB. Are you > working in Photoshop? There is no such file format there. Do you have a > reason that you don't like a Hue/Saturation layer set to colorize? Regardless, > saving your settings or layer is by far the best way to come back to a known > point. > > Antonis Ricos Yes. Probably said that unclearly. I am toning using Hue/Saturation/Brightness most of the time. In RGB mode. And using "colorize". But, I have also toned just using the different RGB channels; moving the middle gamma slider left and right, while in different individual channels. I *will* say too, that toning using H/S/B sometimes gives this weird "banding" look when radically-different tones are adjacent. Sometimes, using Levels seems like it tones smoother; smoother, as in the gradation. But Levels also seems more limited in how saturated and how extreme you can tone. I don't really work in layers very often; I just do many multiple "Save As"'s along the way, ending up with numerous slightly-different files. Somehow, working in layers seems kinda sissy; ie. "just commit, one way or the other". Again, this is just the way I work; may be VERY different for other people. -MT
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Re: Toning Methods?
2001-08-26 by Mark Tucker
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